Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[MaryAnn]

Louise,

I am enjoying sewing up linen separates--especially T&C and ABO, currently--but I'm having trouble with interfacing "bubbling" after laundering. Do you have an interfacing on your website that you recommend for shirts and tops made of handkerchief, light, and medium linen? Thanks for your advice.

MaryAnn

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm having trouble with interfacing "bubbling" after laundering. Do you have an interfacing on your website that you recommend for shirts and tops made of handkerchief, light, and medium linen

Bubbling interfacing can be caused by several things. Why can't it ever just be one thing...the magic wand and it fixed...but nooooo!

If the interfacing has bubbled, the fabric might have shrunk further in the washing or drying process...and the interfacing has not shrunk further and now has no where to go except to bubble.     OR    There has not been enough heat, pressure, time and steam when you pressed it to the fabric. These 4 are what makes interfacing and fabric stick together.

I always reccomend preshrinking interfacing...I know there are others out there in the sewing community who say don't bother...My thoughts... it can't hurt to do so and if it helps 'mo' better'...and no, the glue won't come off.  I use a silk organza press cloth between the iron and the interfacing. I hover the iron steaming over the garment wrong side up, interfacing wrong side down, the press cloth and get the iron steaming and about 1/4" above the surface...this way if there is even a bit of shrinkage left in the interfacing the hot iron steaming will get rid of it before you place the iron on the press cloth. PRESS DON'T IRON...lift and lower the iron...never glide it over the surface. 10 seconds at least in every spot...not 10 seconds and then move the iron, but just that every section has 10 seconds.

Now pressure...get your body up and over the iron and press down. Presses have seemingly gone out of favor...but they are great for interfacings. They have 100 pounds per sq inch of pressure.

Now leave the interfacing on the iorning board to cool and then move it and start something else...I don't interface all the pieces in a garment at the same time...I get bored and I might change my mind of what interfacing I want in that area...maybe two interfacings on top of each other. Armani has used 14 different interfacings in a garment and it still feels like a soft sweater. Trick, no two interfacings applied on top of each other are on the same grain.

For that matter, I never put a woven interfacing on the same grain as the garment it is applied. It is always off grain...this will also help with the bubbling. It is slightly on the bias...to almost true bias (remember I said woven interfacings) This way if the fabric shrinks more the interfacing on the bias can shrink or expand with the fabric.

Knitted interfacings are great for rayons and tencels, along with of course knits. I do put knitted intefacings in my wovens also.

As far as what you asked about ....handkerchief, light, and medium linen...I like Dream Weave, Sewers Dream...both are knitted very light weight interfacings and a new one, I just found, light weight 100% cotton called Presto Sheer. It is a woven and I would put it off grain to true bias. All are on my website.

Put the fabric in one hand and the interfacing in the other...the interfacing should never feel heavier than the fabric it is going to e applied to.

Back to creative machine... Louise

[lakestitcher]

Hi Louise,

I followed the link you provided and joined the creative machine Yahoo group but don't see you there today. Did I go to the right place?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Yes, I have been posting. There are two creativemachines chat areas out there...one with the yahoo group and the other is with the one I am posting on    thecreativemachine@lyris.quiltropolis.com.

This should take you to the area to be able to join and then post.

 http://lyris.quiltropolis.com/scripts/lyris.pl?join=thecreativemachine

At the end of the week, I will send the ladies over there to this site so they can continue to post and see all the stuff that is available for them here. till later, Louise

[lakestitcher]

Thank you so much! I finally found it, took a bit of doing though!
Sure wish the format was like it is here though, this is wonderful!!  But I'll get used to it I guess.
Thanks again.

[reanns]

Robby Jo - In reply to your question, am I a youngster?  Well, I have to laugh.  No, I'm 61 and there are days that I feel every one of those years and a whole lot more.  But I have been blessed with good health, and am still able to stand, sit, lift and move (if not gracefully - I constantly run into hard objects).  I volunteered because for the first time in my life I am totally and completely free.  Yes, I love my new home in Wilmington, my friends and of course my boys, but they live their own lives and neither are married so not hampered by grandchildren.  And this is something I have always wanted to do.  So why not do it while I still can?  I also don't want to leave this world without leaving a small footprint of contributing  something good - and I think the Peace Corps is my way of doing just that.

ReAnn

[vtmartha]

Go for it, ReAnn!

[stashpanache]

I have to have pockets in my pants.  Do these one seam pants have pockets?

Stash

[LOUISE CUTTING]

have to have pockets in my pants.  Do these one seam pants have pockets

Yes the pattern has 3 pocket styles included with the straight and tapered leg pattern. The very best pocket is in the Collection I booklet...under 'Really Cool Pocket'...I found it on a pair of Bill Blass pants, I pulled it apart (in my mind) and figured out how it would be drafted. It is strong enough could hold small cars! without breaking through. It is easy to do and looks neat and stays flat to the body.

Hope this helps. till later, Louise

[stashpanache]

Thank you!!  I am saving my CM emails and hoping I can get enough hints to fit a pair. 

Stash

[LOUISE CUTTING]

If you post your hip measurement and crotch depth measurement I will be able to help you fit the One Seams to you.

I'm going to bring the One Seam Pant chat topic up to the top so those  looking for fitting, etc. will find what they need. later Louise

[Terri K]

I just posted some photos of the cutting out of the striped linen Heading for Adventure jacket and the planning.   Now to get back to the sewing.    I haven't cut out the casing or drawstring yet because I want to wait and measure where I want that to end on the actual jacket.   

Louise,  the one you did had the casing on the outside, right?    In the HFA long version with just the back drawstring, the casing is inside.

Heading for Adventure Set

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Good pix Terri, the second one shows how you colored the stripes on the pape dolls...you asked about the drawstring casing....I did put it on the inside with 2 buttonholes about 2" away from the front for the cord to come to the outside...but with you using a stripe...how would the brown stripe or the white stripe being sewn to the outside of the garment. I think that would look even better. Try both and see which looks (and fits into the whole look) better. Whenever you decided, use the same color of fabric for the cord so it would keep the idea flowing.

back to illustrating. Louise

[Terri K]

That's what I was thinking too, that the horizontal stripe on an outside casing would give it more definition.  Thanks for the clarification!    Thank goodness for AC, I hate this muggy hot weather!

[sewnurse1959]

Louise,  I signed up at the creative machine link that you posted, but what link do I go to to find your chat room.  By the way, my straight leg one seams turned out great. I only put in a pocket on the lt. side.  They will be great for the formal night on my Alaskan cruise.  Sewnurse (Sheila )

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I signed up at the creative machine link that you posted, but what link do I go to to find your chat room

It's not like here. You will get e-mails from them in your box...you don't go and find a chatroom. they will come all at once if you put yourself on digest or they will come one at a time to your in box e-mail and will come everyday...you might need to check your spam...if your 'big brother' doesn't know the address it could land in spam...I often land in my own spam box!

I have to look there all day long...if someone wants to discuss One Seam pants...and uses the work 'crotch' spam it goes!!!

back to illustrating. Louise

[Terri K]

See post above   

[Terri K]

Tomorrow is another day for finishing and topstitching.   I posted the Heading for Adventure Jacket "work in progress" photos.  This is the duster shortened to a jacket with the drawstring/casing coming around to where the sleeve joins the front.   

Whew -  Lots of pressing at linen temps (hot) but it's turning out just as planned.   The directions and techniques are incredible.   I won't go into detail since they are copyrighted.    I may shorten it more after I see what the casing and drawstring do and move the pockets up.   It'll be great with the lt brown silk noil ABO top.

Photos of Striped linen HFA

After you look at the photos, can you let me know whether you think it would look better with the casing inside or an outside one.   I'm leaning toward doing the inside casing since I'd be matching up the vertical stripes and you couldn't see it anyway      and it's less work.   I think going with the brown stripe for the drawstring will be best since the wider cream stripe is down the front facing that will have the buttonholes.   (KISS principle since there's a lot going on with the stripes anyway!)

[vtmartha]

That jacket is going to be beautiful, Terri!

[marciae]

Great jacket, Terri.  Definitely do the casing inside - like you said - lots going on with the stripes and you've done an outstanding job of matching, etc.

[LindaL]

Terri, your jacket is gorgeous.  What a nice fabric!

[rebells]

I've been eying that pattern for quite a while.  It looks great.

[Terri K]

Everything is finished except for hemming.    I posted more photos of the casing & buttonhole insertion and the jacket with the casing & sash inserted.   I definitely need to shorten the sleeves.   Re the overall length, I'm undecided about that.   I've posted a photo with one side basted up and the other side w/ pocket longer. 

What do you think?

[DeniseM]

Terri: Gorgeous jacket and you did your usual terrific job. I like the longer version, personally, but I guess it depends how you want to wear it. FYI The G Street store in Rockville is sending me Louise's Butterflies and Bees pattern. Can't wait to do a mock-up and see which fabric to make it in.

[marciae]

I'm short so I always want things short!   Guess it would depend on what you plan to wear it with??  I really like the fabric.

Denise - which jacket will you make?

[DeniseM]

B&B is Louise's reversable jacket. I was thinking of making it in an embroidered silk dupionni with a plain dupionni on the reverse side. Louise said she made this version for her trunk show.

Louise, I see you're not on the schedule for the Sewing Expo in Chantilly, Va. this year - bummer.

[mom2five]

Terri,

The jacket is beautiful... I like the short version.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I see you're not on the schedule for the Sewing Expo in Chantilly, Va

Sorry about that...I have been asked to do the Novi show. They end up on the same weekend. At that time I am just returning from Nantucket (I run away for the month of Sept)...you can still find me and I still answer questions...but this has been my haven for 37 years...used to live there for about 6 months of the year in the 80's. The Novi show is a Friday-Sunday show and I fly there on Wednesday to teach an all day Sit and Sew on Thursday and teach regular classes Fri-Sun. But no fabric there...and the Chantilly show, I fly home Sunday, would have to pick up and pack the van and head out driving on Monday and Tuesday...set up the booth on Wednesday and the show starts on Thursday...Doing the Novi show, I have Monday and Tuesday to regroup before  head out. I'll be doing the chantilly show again.

The fall is very busy with a variety of ASG guild events where I am the guest speaker and the Asheville retreat in early November...as I understand as of yesterday it is filled.

till later, Louise

[marciae]

Louise - do we have a clue as to what the new pattern is?? - Or, when it will be ready - inquiring minds need to know!!!

[DeniseM]

Louise, we will miss you at Chantilly. I was told they moved the date so it doesn't overlap with Novi, but I guess they didn't move it enough. Seems you have a very hectic schedule.

[Terri K]

I got sidetracked today with rearranging computers, hooking up new printer and moving bookcases  then going through all the stuff on my "office" bookcase and wondering why I still need it    so the paper recycling bag is heavy.   Thunderstorm and power failure on top of that which didn't affect the cleaning.  De-ticked the dog - yuck - ticks are awful this year,  cleaned my body up and now, after a pitcher of sangria (small one),  I will go back upstairs & hem my Heading for Adventure Jacket.   

Thanks for all your complements and ideas - I'll keep it long for now so then I have the option of shortening it if I tire of that length 

[DeniseM]

Hey, Louise: I got the Butterfly and Bees pattern and was going over the instructions last night. I noticed that the two jackets are only attached at the neckline, is that right? Otherwise the body of each jacket hangs free? I think if I don't puts shoulder pads in I may join them. Do you have any suggestions for this? I'll make the two jackets first, put them together and see how it looks.

[mom2five]

Louise, I love your patterns!  I mean I REALLY LOVE your patterns!  Someone, somewhere said that using your patterns was like taking a class and they were so right, I just love all of  your instructions and tips... thank you, thank you, thank you!

Okay, now for the questions... I made the Anything But Ordinary jacket and I'm not sure about the fit.  What are the rules for oversized?  When does oversized become too big?  I had to shorten the sleeves about two inches and that's the only alteration I made.  It feels really huge on me but I can't tell if it's just a different style that I'm not used to or if it's the wrong size.  I'm sure a picture would be much more helpful... I'll try to learn how to do that.

... off to make some One Seam pants now!

angel

[Alice in Bama]

Hey, Louise: I got the Butterfly and Bees pattern and was going over the instructions last night. I noticed that the two jackets are only attached at the neckline, is that right? Otherwise the body of each jacket hangs free? I think if I don't puts shoulder pads in I may join them. Do you have any suggestions for this? I'll make the two jackets first, put them together and see how it looks.

Hey Louise
 I would like an answer to I am fixing to cut this out also in linen rose print for the outside  then the second is a silk solid that brings out the roses
Alice

[LOUISE CUTTING]

High gang, I have been trying to get every thing done before I leave for the ASG convention. Orders, proofing the instructions for the new pattern (i.e. making sure all the illustrations are in position to the copy, getting all the notions listed for the envelope. If it is not done this week and 'put to bed' then everything stops for about the next 10 days. So lets see what you have been up to.

To DeniseM & Alice

I got the Butterfly and Bees pattern and was going over the instructions last night. I noticed that the two jackets are only attached at the neckline, is that right? Otherwise the body of each jacket hangs free? I think if I don't puts shoulder pads in I may join them. Do you have any suggestions for this? I'll make the two jackets first, put them together and see how it looks.

Yes, the two jackets are made completely independently of each other except for around the neck and about 2" down the front edges. The insperation for this jacket was from Ellen Tracy silk crepe de chine jacket I saw a few seasons ago for about $900.00. The outside layer was a tiny gray and white hounds tooth check and the inside was a gray with tiny pin size polka dots. The outside layer of the  jacket when worn, fluttered down the front and reminded me of a butterfly.

I have never been a big fan of lined to the edge jackets. The two layers never seemed to hang well together...the inside layer always seems to grow and sag toward the hem area, forming long ripples of fabric under it own weight. Also, I have found it very time consuming getting the sewn edge folded and pressed with the seam exactly on the edge of the garment.

When I have seen Vogue patterns (why they buy these types of designs and then try to pass them off sewing them a completely different way is beyond me). Showing designer jacket from  Beene and de la Renta especally, that are double cloth...one can see the tiny raised lip of fabric running under every seam...knowing that the fabric is very difficult to find at fabric stores Vogue always says to line to the edge. The garments will never come out looking the same as in the photo.  And scream 'home made'...   

I just loved the 2 garments fluttering as you walk...it is so different and very pretty. The small shoulder pad is to make the garment look better on the body. I don't know of a garment or a shoulder that doesn't look better with a small pad...well maybe a strapless evening gown

Now to Mom2 five

I made the Anything But Ordinary jacket and I'm not sure about the fit.  What are the rules for oversized?  When does oversized become too big?  I had to shorten the sleeves about two inches and that's the only alteration I made.  It feels really huge on me but I can't tell if it's just a different style that I'm not used to or if it's the wrong size.

Okay, some of this is personal taste (Yours) as far as over sized garments. I have seen many run 20"+ over the body measurements. Again, shoulder pads are 'our friends' when it comes to over sized garments.

With the sleeves, the reason why they were a little longer in the pattern is if you wanted to roll them up you could do so and still have a sleeve still sitting near your wrist. But the sleeves can be shorten to really any length, 3/4 length would pretty and so would a short sleeve, even though it has a drop shoulder.

When I teach I go into sizes and show different patterns each saying they are over sized. You best way to wear an over sized garments is exactly the circumference you want. It can be about 6" extra running around the body or 10" (you won't believe how many garments are at least 10" extra over your body measurements you have hanging in your closet right now. But they are hanging equally around your circumference and you won't see all the extra fabric unless you grabbed a hand full and pulled it to the front right in the middle.

How you like to wear it is all up to you. I have given the finished garment measurements on the envelope and the pattern tissue. Measure something in your closet that is similar in style and about the same circumference and put it on...do you like how it looks on you? This will start to place you ina size. My patterns and other pattern companies.

With a pattern like the ABO jacket, the whole jacket can come in the circumference by taking a vertical tuck along the whole garment both front and back. Several posts back, I had given directions on how to make the Less is More top larger to look like the Eskandar Monk's top and add to the bias to make the funnel neck line...well the same thing would work in reverse to take something in a bit around the circumference.

Gaud, I love e-bay...now this gal know hows to measure for us, including having a tape measurer in the photo. Here is the ABO top with the extra circumference in the body and there are pictures of just about everything including the Neiman Marcus webstie photos.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-330-ESKANDAR-Yellowstone-Linen-T-Shirt-O-S_W0QQitemZ320139979377QQihZ011QQcategoryZ63868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem 

Off to get started packing. till later, Louise