Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[Linda 75142]

I've thoroughly enjoyed the Cutting Through the Clutter book I got at the M. Pullen show from Louise.  I'm now inspired to go through the closet.  I retired in January and have several things that I'm sure I'll never wear again.  I need to donate those, and make those things that will work for me now and that I can mix and match.  What a great book with great ideas and inspiration.  thanks, Louise!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Can someone please give me a hint on how to layout the neck facing for the top in Anything but Ordinary (right side of fabric or wrond side

Turn your fabric WRONG SIDE UP and place the tissue pattern for the facing so you can read the words correctly...the WRONG side of the pattern piece will be toward the WRONG side of the fabric. WRONG SIDES TOGETHER.

For the interfacing the WRONG side of the tissue pattern will be to the RIGHT side of the intefacing (not the glue side).

If you are making larger than an XS, yes, you can sew the shoulder seam/neck facing closed. The button and tab was on the original design I saw and is there for design detail.

If all else fails...and you have enough fabric, cut two layers of both the facing and interfacing the conventional way...apply the interfacing to both facing pieces....and then use the one that is the correct one for the neck opening....I have had to do this after 3 tries with a black and a white sleeve placket. The left sleeve was black and a right sleeve was white. I wanted to match the plackets to the shirt sleeve color...I also wanted the correct color for the interfacing...after the 3 tries I just kept getting wrong placket color for the wrong sleeve color...finally, I just cut 2 of both the black and white plus the same with the interfacings...and used the correct placket on the correct sleeve...the other 2 turned into teaching samples about plackets/different colors/how to do this very thing.

Cutting Through the Clutter seems to start to make everyone begin to clean out their closet and fabric...with the "OK, I'm done with this look"..."never was  me"... and as far as fabric..."what was I thinking!" 

As I sit here typing I have a kitty laying on the desk almost asleep...I'm home...that is all they want.

till later, Louise

PS...by the time I read through this...he is now asleep...and it is late...I need to do the same.

[Terri K]

template -  Guess Louise beat me to answering since I had to go dig my pattern out from under the fabric for my next generation tops --- Right on the pattern piece, it says CUT 1 from fabric wrong side up.  So you place the pattern piece on the wrong side of the fabric and then mark that as the wrong side - transferring all markings.   You have to read every line on Louise's instructions & the pieces because she's thorough 

[template]

Thank you Louise. I guess where I went wrong (more than once) was laying down the piece with the back where the front should have been. Instructions are now printed and in the folder with all your other great hints. Have a good night. Bye for now. Jackie B.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have been waiting until the top like the ABO shell was up on e-bay with pictures...one came up and was sold overnight, but it still shows up with this link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ESKANDAR-JADE-LINEN-SHORT-SLEEVE-TOP-O-S-NWT_W0QQitemZ250133892979QQihZ015QQcategoryZ63868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Scroll down toward the bottom of the page and it shows the neckline and button tab.

The original was much bigger around the circumference than what I designed in the ABO pattern. The original was O/S and was  67" circumference and 22" long. The ABO range from 19 1/2"-21 1/2" long and 40"-56" around depending on which of the 5 sizes you choose. If you want to make similar to the original, draw a vertical line about half way between the center front and the side seam on both the front and back of the tissue pattern from the mid shoulder line to the hem line. The same amount of tissue needs to be added to the front and back, depending on how much you would like to add to have the ABO top look like the original, remember what ever is added on the left side in inches is also added to the right side in inches. Ex. 2" added to the front will actually be 8" total...front/back/left/right. 3" added will be a total of 12"

Don't just make a larger size...if you want the circumference, the neck line in the pattern is also graded per size.

Don't think how large the circumference is once it is finished...when you 'finish' so does the garment. It will become soft folds falling somewhat on the bias. I think it looks best with a small shoulder pads to 'set' the figure.

Back to drafting. till later, Louise

PS..usually this little linen top sells for $430.00...so the 'buy it now' on e-bay at $105.00 was a real sale...we on the other hand can make it out of 60" fabric...a length for the front, a length for the back and a length for the sleeve.  About 1 1/4yd-1 5/8yds in 60" and in 45" 2 yards.   

[Terri K]

Thanks for the link Louise.   It's fun to snoop shop on line    Having made several of your interpretation, I like the ABO top's shape, the fit and the sleeve much better than the Eskandar.   

I wonder what they are thinking when they mark some garments "one size"      For some reason, I'm envisioning one of those big plastic, drop sheets with a hole for your head if you get caught in the rain when I read "one size fits all".      Denise - help me find a smiley for that !!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I made the ABO shell and added 3" per quarter. 12" total. I just wore it to the Martha Pullen event in Texas. I made a pair of One Seam Pants straight leg with 11" long darts (4 darts for each leg) that were about an 1" wide at the hem and went to nothing by the time they got to the knee. The pants were ankle length. The ABO top to match with the extended circumference. Both were in a washed denim linen. The wider top is 'just a look'...not for everyone...but kinda' fun to wear (and really, really cool)...I have seen the same top on a size 8-10 in the O/S and it equally looked nice. It is all in the fabrication that is chosen...soft, drapy and fluid.

When we had a bit of time to play in Dallas and at Neiman Marcus, Sandy tried on several tops and jackets from Eskandar in styles that came in O/S...she generally wears an 8 and was not convinced that the O/S garmetns would look all that good on her. She was pleasently surprised. "They are alright!"

It is great to go to the store and play with styles and sizes from different designers that you aren't used to wearing. Try them on with your hair done, makeup on...and a set of sholder pads. .

I finished a trial garment and wrote in long hand the step-by-steps for the next pattern. I am planning on starting the second style that will be in the same envelope tomorrow.

till later, Louise   

[mom2five]

and you looked wonderful Louise!  I was wondering if that outfit would look good on me (size 8-10) so I'm glad to hear that it works.  I love soft, drapy, oversized clothes but they always make me look bigger than I am... not good when you're trying to lose baby weight... I think I was just wearing the "large" in the wrong way if that makes sense.

I'm new here, thanks Louise for the information and invitation!  I'm going to love having a place to talk about sewing! I look forward to meeting everyone.

angel

[fzxdoc]

Angel (mom2five) welcome to Stitcher's Guild.  You've landed on one of our more popular topics.  Louise is so generous with her help and advice here--a real shining star, for sure.

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Enjoy your visits, to Stitcher's Guild, Angel!

Kathryn

[LOUISE CUTTING]

While drinking coffee and playing on e-bay I found some great pictures...the people that put items up for sale really do our homework for us. Great pictures...and for the most part great measurements...it is funny to see how a non-sewer measures a garment and what they think is important to us if we were planning on purchasing the item.

This one is the ABO top with the extra width for $200...which is about half the ready-to-wear price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/eskandar-s-classic-white-linen-t-shirt-bateauneck_W0QQitemZ330138622689QQihZ014QQcategoryZ15769QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I had to go looking for this one...it was sold in one day for the "buy it now" on e-bay for $100 to someone who must know the real R-T-W price for this top from Exkandar. This gal must not sew, else she would know how easy and inexpensive this little top is to complete.  It also is the extended circumference. Scroll to the bottom of this page to see the details of the tab at the neck.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ESKANDAR-ORANGE-LINEN-SHORT-SLEEVE-TOP-O-S_W0QQitemZ250135025878QQihZ015QQcategoryZ63868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The next two are the linen monk's top that I wrote about last week with the extension of the bias neck band to form the funnel.

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ESKANDAR-DOVE-LINEN-MONKS-TOP-SIDE-TABS-0-S_W0QQitemZ110141882993QQihZ001QQcategoryZ63868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ESKANDAR-DOVE-LINEN-MONKS-TOP-SIDE-TABS-0-S_W0QQitemZ110141882993QQihZ001QQcategoryZ63868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Now I have to get back to work. till later, Louise

[MaryAnn]

Well, I finally got the ABO top out of the envelope and expanded the front and back to the Escandar proportions as Louise so generously posted above. I'm happy to say that I love it! And I'm wearing it here at work right now. I made it out of a beautiful lightweight ice blue linen. It is very cool temperature-wise and quite appropriate for mid-August when we deliver our son to the U of Miami for his Freshman year. Two years ago I made a pair of ankle-length one-seams out of a medium brown mid-weight linen. Following the directions in Louise's first book about one-seam variations, this pair has 8 darts at the hem, each extending about 7" up toward the knee. I'm thinking of trying the variation with the bias cut piecing.....

I have also cut out the camp shirt in a cross-dye handkerchief linen in yellow/blue and another ABO top in midweight pale olive, this one in the pattern's original proportions. I just love sewing linen!

Thanks for the great patterns, and all your generous tips on how to make them even better. MaryAnn

[Fabricarts]

Louise, I was just at the Threads website and noticed your "Timeless Details" article in the upcoming issue. I can't wait to see the rest of the article. I'm so glad Threads puts the Online Extras up for us to see. Thanks for showing such interesting details and how to accomplish them!
Miriam

[template]

Hello Louise. I finally came across on Create (the tv program that repeats the shows from PBS) the America sew program where you showed how to press using silk organdi and how to attach the bias binding(no pressing the edge until you are done). Really enjoyed your hints. On the show you wore the ABO jacket in a beige fabri with appligues. I have a question regarding the collar of the ABO. When I made it early this year I was really please the way it looked, but after seeing yours I realized that your collar stand up more like a mandarin collar. On my jacket the edge of the collar (the folded edge) lays almost touching the neck seam line. Is there a way to make the collar less pointed and more like a stand up collar?. Yes I did use interfacing heavy enough for the fabric. I hope all of this makes sense and you will be able to help me. I do come up with some  doozies of questions. Take of your self and hugs to the kitties. Bye for now. Jackie B.

[Ann C]

Louise,

I read somewhere recently (and thought it was probably here - but I can't find it!) your method of determining the length a top should be to look "in proportion".  It was something about measuring from the waist to the floor, dividing by five and making  your top come down to the first or second fifth measurement.  Am I remembering that correctly?  I want to try your method and see if I can see a difference in how it looks on me!  ............on to more one seams until you  have a chance to answer! 

 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

 

Ann you are so right with what you just wrote. Yes, this will give you a good proportion for jackets and tunics or toppers (gaud...what we used to call a car coat ). I have this and many more in the newest booklet 'Cutting Through the Clutter'....I have been hearing from many of you after receiving the booklet have headed directly to your closet and standing there "want...don't want"..."what was I thinking???"..."this needs to go here with this color "...I have done this myself as I was writing the booklet and even more when I kept editing it (as has Sandy...when she read through and edited it)...I have 3 boxes (big boxes) ready to head out to Goodwill with nice, but no longer 'me' clothes. Garments I 'wore here_____with____to_____'. 'But I'm going to wear this again when I loose, move, travel to....you can fill in the__________.

I have been asked to be the guest host on creative machine the week of July 16-21. I'll give you more details closer to the dates.

Here is the link to the new article in Threads. http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00215.asp
I didn't pick the details, I was sent the illustrations for each detail...the same illustration you can see in the article. There were 10 total that I did, the ones in greatest detail had to go on the Threads website while the less complex will be in the next issue. No place in any of my 50 year old drafting or tailoring books could I find some of the details I was sent...The pattern drafting side of my brain had to kick into gear...along with drafting the step-by-steps, I had to make the sections of the garments and then write how to draft the detail and sew the detail. Again, the rest will be in the magaine. The drafting detail drawings and the garment sections are the actual samples I sent to Threads. Pulling out of my brain how to draft a certain detail was great fun (granted I had a very short time to do all of this)...but it was this type of exercise I used to give my students when I taught college...No wonder I heard hissing early on a Monday morning!

In the October/November issue of threads will be all about wardrobes. I wrote an article on working with the 'Paper Dolls for Adults'...for wardrobe and sewing planning.

Well, I am starting to pack for the ASG Sacramento convention....this time I have to use a common carrier and at least 2 skids with about 1000 pounds on each...'Fabric Collections is moving west for at least for 5 days. Never before have I sent fabric and over 200 bolts at that, along with everything else that is usually in the booth in this way. The carrier mush know everything in the boxes down to the fiber content of the fabric.   

It's going to be a long day(s), so I better get a lot more  :coffee:till later, Louise   

[marciae]

Great article, Louise.  My Threads was waiting when I returned home yesterday - as were a couple of the books that were mentioned in your Cutting the Cluter book!! I had gone thru my closets before I got the book - but need to do another cut!  I've had the book in the Mtns with me and really think I have it memorized!  Most of us know the things that you wrote about - so why don't we practice it??   Have fun at the expo!

[makeupmaven]

Louise,
So glad you will have fabric at your booth in Sacramento.  You had the best selection of fabric in your booth last year in DC!  Hope you will have a selection of buttons also.  I spent many $$$$$$$ with you in buttons I could not live without.  See you in California!
Gail

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Yes, buttons will be there. Maybe not quite as many, only because of the weight with shipping...but I will bring the best ones! We have a great way to bring even more fabric with us this year. I have to cut my samples for the 'Sit & Sew' tomorrow and get them boxed up. Everything has to leave FL by the 10th of July...so there is something (or many somethings) that have to get done each day between now and then. 

I talked to the gals at the ASG headquarters, and for a small fee (I think $5.00) those ladies who are not able to come to the ASG convention can come to the comsumer floor during show hours.

Well, it has been a long day of standing, marking fabric and boxing it up...I'd day about 100 bolts so far. I hope there is something good on TV so I can just put my feet up for the rest of the evening with a cat or two draped all over me. 

till later, Louise 

[Ann C]

Louise,

Thanks for confirming my memory!     I really don't trust myself to remember things exactly and have been known to get it wrong! 

Remember that faux fur jacket I was discussing with you at the dinner at La Madelleine in Atlanta?I had asked you about an idea I had for doing a rounded back adjustment on a raglan sleeve jacket made from faux fur.  Well - after much delaying, I finally finished it late in the spring and reviewed it on Pattern Review.  Here's the link http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=20696  I thought it turned out pretty well!  Thanks for your input!
 
Have a good trip to the west coast- and I wish I was there to get some more of your wonderful fabric!  It seems my best looking outfits always come from fabric from your expo booth!!

PS:  Great article in Threads!  Love your methods.  You can always explain your ideas so well!  The pattern companies would do well to follow your lead in great construction detail in their instruction sheets, too!  I've learned soooo much from your patterns and booklets!

[Terri K]

Love the faux fur jacket Ann - I  checked it out when you posted the PR review!      Well,  y'all,   Terri is officially retired!   After DS moves to a college apt next month, I'm opening our first house, that we call The Brick House   down the street from our larger stone house, to sewing ladies & families interested in coming to Asheville & mountains for retreats and get aways.    Since we've completely remodeled it, and you can sit on the front porch, relax and enjoy the mountain view,  it's perfect for a group to stay.    I'm thinking Biltmore champagne and chocolate cocktail parties.   

[fzxdoc]

Beautiful jacket, Ann!  Thanks for the link to the review.  I really enjoyed reading it and seeing all of the wonderful photos.

Kathryn

[Alice in Bama]

I  have  a questions I am making a shirt from the  YOUR EVERDAY DRIFTTER PATTERNS I would like to know how far down should the shoulder drop down off the shoulder  Can anyone answer  Thanks

Alice

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Most ladies shoulders are about 5" from the base of the neck along the shoulder seam line to the ball of their shoulder. The YED does drop off the shoulder quite a bit. The original design I saw by Ellen Tracy had no shoulder seam armscye at all. Instead it had a center back seam.

The garment was cut all in one with the sleeve cut along with the body of the garment. It had a seam running along the shoulder line and then continued down the outer part of the sleeve into the cuff.

The no shoulder seam looked fine from the front of the garment. You would 'set' the shoulder on you with a small shoulder pad, but I didn't care for the seam running down the middle of the back of a graceful tunic or blouse. So I designed the sleeve seam just as a break in the garment so there would be no center back seam. If you would 'marry' the sleeve to the body of the garment in tissue, you will see that the underarm arc of the garment is closer to the body and then extends out and down the arm before the 'shoulder' seam even starts.

Usually when the YED is worn the shoulder seam seems to vanish. Hope this helps a bit with the thoughts behind the design.

Another thing about the center back seam in a garment like this when done in a beautiful print...thae center back seam looks awful and stands out when all there should be is just a wonderful pretty fabric or print along the back of the garment.  later, Louise

[template]

Hello Louise. We have been on the road traveling to Tempe AZ and I have not been able to check my emails. Did you have a chance to answer posting  362 regarding the collar of ABO?. Thank you in advance. On my way to the pool. It is too hot for me to be dewey as I understand they say in the south. Bye for now.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I knew I had another question to answer...I couldn't remember where I saw it.

On the show you wore the ABO jacket in a beige fabri with appligues. I have a question regarding the collar of the ABO. When I made it early this year I was really please the way it looked, but after seeing yours I realized that your collar stand up more like a mandarin collar. On my jacket the edge of the collar (the folded edge) lays almost touching the neck seam line. Is there a way to make the collar less pointed and more like a stand up collar?.

That was actual yardage of fabric...not appliques...but it would be easy to do. Sorry, the fabric is no longer available...I could sell about 100 yards at each show if they still produced it.

The jacket I wore on the show with Sue Hausmann was a prototyle of the ABO and the collar was much higher. I just measurered it and I remembered when I put the pattern into production I removed 5/8" completely across the top straight edge.

For those with the pattern, as you are looking at the collar and are able to read the 'stuff' on the collar right side up, the long straight (almost) edge along the bottom is where the 5/8" would be added if one wanted to. I figured most ladies would not like something this high up around their neck so I lowered the collar 5/8"...I also have the world's shortest neck...I was not called 'Mary No Neck' by my mother for 'nuttin'...

What I'm not getting is where you say..."the folded edge... lays almost touching the neck seam line. Is there a way to make the collar less pointed and more like a stand up collar." The collar in the pattern stands about 2 1/2" up at the center front now.

Please try to 'splain it again so I can figure out what you are saying....

off to get a prototype cut out and sewn. later, Louise

[template]

Hello Louise. Sorry for not being clearer. I meant to say the fold with the point. The height of the collar is fine as it is. Don't work to hard, do take time for yourself. Hugs to the kitties and Happy 4th of July. Bye for now. Jackie B.

[Terri K]

Louise,   I'm working on my Heading for Adventure jacket,  and spied this Shamask Silk chiffon tunic top with a drawstring.   

The simplicity is awesome and it's the same fluttery concept as your Butterfly & Bees jacket.  For this, I thought the tunic top from Heading for Adventure would be the perfect starting point.   Am I on the right track?     I have some coordinating georgette that would be perfect - two layers, not three for me; hem the sleeves & bottom,  connect at the neckline, leave the front edge open below the casing/drawstring on the Shamask.   Do you have any other suggestions?   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm sure am glad I don't have an outside job in Florida and in the summer ...working in a location so the truck can pick up everything with a forklift, I finished up all the boxes (30 total)...lots of fabric, patterns, buttons, office, clothes for trunk show that are heading out to Sacramento on Thursday...all 1500 pounds of them. They now have to be put on skids (3) and shrink wrapped.

When done, came inside and spent time on the phone getting the 18 wheeler trucking company in line/extra insurance/pickup location...on the phone was spent on hold waiting to get the the right (I hope) person...all of this paragraph is saying great minds think alike, I was playing on e-bay while listening to bad hold music...Terri...I too saw the Shamask top....who ever that person is that sells (you can tell it is the same gal...she puts all the garments on the black model and takes tons of pictures from all sides and close up shots and then measures the garment is tons of places.

Yes, SIH top or HFA pullover would both work great. Remember the proportions for a drawstring is to measure your self from your shoulder seam close to your neckline to your waist and add 1 1/2"....that will be the top of your drawstring stitching line. This will give just the right amount of blousing without getting sloppy.

Linda Lee from the Sewing Workshop Pattern Company was in town over the weekend and we had a great dinner Saturday night.  We talked about the upcoming retreats here and in Asheville and also started to talk about the new '4 Women of Design' next April.

Getting back to the collar question on ABO

On my jacket the edge of the collar (the folded edge) lays almost touching the neck seam line. Is there a way to make the collar less pointed and more like a stand up collar

I'm working on only one cup of coffee this morning ...so far...I'm still not seeing what you are asking for...The collar fold should come straight out from the front of the garment at the fold line for the facing. It is a direct straight line like on the pattern front illustration. Is there a way to post a picture or send me one in an e-mail? Is the collar folding back like a wing collar? Is this why folded edge is touching the neck seam line? If so, you might just need a bit stiffer interfacing to keep the collar upright.

Please keep me posted, I'll check back later. I have a 10AM conference call with the other editors Threads..I'll let you know if there is anything coming up in the Magazine (if I'm allowed to tell before it comes out). till later, Louise

 

[template]

Hello Louise. Will post of picture when we get back home to OR, toward the end of the month. Bye for now. Jackie B.

[Terri K]

1,500 lbs -  maybe I need to fly out to CA just to do some fabric shopping!   I've got a trip scheduled for mid Aug but you are tempting me 

[reanns]

Yippee - I made it into Louise & Linda's winter workshop in Winter Park.  Anyone on the list also attending?

ReAnn

[nanflan]

No, but I'm signed up for Linda's workshop in California in October.  Louise won't be at that one though.

[reanns]

I was hoping someone from the list was attending as would like to find a roomie.  This will be the last workshop I'll be able to attend for quite some time as I have volunteered for the Peace Corps and will be heading off to somewhere far, far away for 27 months once I am accepted. 

ReAnn

[RobbieJo]

OMG!!!!  ReAnn I"m so impressed!! 

If you don't mind my asking, is this a mid life decision or are you a youngster?  I do have a friend now in her 60's who became a missionary while in her 50's (she is a retired pharmacist).  She lives and works in Bolivia and probably wouldn't come home at all except for the grandchildren.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi group...today has been spent on getting the instructions to an almost final end for the new pattern. I have some illustrations to do and the coverart...so it is moving along nicely.

Starting tomorrow I will be the host all week for the chat room at creative machine. I hope to see many of you there to keep me company. Here is a link to join if you haven't done so.

 http://lyris.quiltropolis.com/scripts/lyris.pl?join=thecreativemachine 

I will be back and forth between here and there all week...along with getting some new samples I saw while snoop shopping several days ago plus packing for the ASG convention.

Till later, Louise