Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[Terri K]

Thank you Louise, gotta print that out.   

Eskandar is very interesting and very popular in the high-end stores like Saks & NM because, even layered, the styles are elegant on most everyone.  As you said, the key is choosing fabulous fabrics with the right hand and drape.  His customer is definitely not the skinny 17-20 something who wants the shrunken jacket and top and tight pant look.  The Harper's Bazaar standard feature, Fabulous at Every Age, features photos of, and garment suggestions, for women of a certain age, in elegant variations of classic,  sophisticated styles in wonderful, interesting fabrics.

The Eskandar coats and outfits that I brought to show while you were at Waechters are timeless.  I just aired out the coats yesterday, taking advantage of the nice breeze before putting them back into their cloth garment bags for the summer storage.   The short one is the textured, silk/wool matelasse in the short length and the other is the long cashmere, embossed to look like broadtail or persian lamb , of which I would NEVER buy the real deal.   The cashmere one was being held at Neiman Marcus by my personal shopper for another woman during their Last Call sale a few years ago.  She wanted it "taken out" but it couldn't be taken out that much, so I got it.    These two coats have very similar lines as the Heading for Adventure duster, which is not as loose fitting as his tops and tunics are.

* Thursday evening - tonight is Stitch Cafe at Waechter's !  I will print out Louise's post with ideas and instructions and take with me.  And, no, I don't get paid by them for posting about goings on there, as someone "suggested" - too funny.

[DeniseM]

Terri: I'm going to have nightmares after reading that article. Glad I don't eat meat or wear real fur.

[Terri K]

No kidding Denise      That's why I posted it.  It's good to be informed about the sources of the raw materials of many coveted, luxury items.  I also refer people to the movie, "Blood Diamonds", which is out on DVD now.   

I want to personally thank Louise again for all the time she spent researching and typing up the instructions for those  tunic tops.    I haven't seen any other pattern designer take the time to freely share her knowledge and expertise, providing information on modifying patterns or the custom fitting advise that she gives.

Back to my continuing saga,   I finished the first ABO top in the brown silk noil.   Found a cute square, lozenge looking button at Waechter's and finished it up.  The mitered hem went together like magic.   I used the same size XS, that I made for the knit, but I think I'll go up to a small for the swiss cotton since it has little give.   DH and I have reservations at the Biltmore Dining Room for dinner tonight soo time to figure out what to wear.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi all, while something was taking forever to print out, I was playing with different sites on the internet. I fell across Walkers of Norwich, England. If you don't have anything do do for awhile...some interesting designers..many we just don't see in the USA. And some really nice/closeup photos of the details. Another one to go to directly is...

http://www.oskahome.de/_en/default_en.html

http://www.walkersofpottergate.com/shopping.php?selected_category_id=122

I've been working on new pattern draftings, so I better get back to that project. The latest book is now finished and is being printed, so make sure you are signed up to receive the newsletter. And I posted to the bolg ...finally.

http://www.fabriccollections.com/whatsnew/whatsnew.html

It has been so beautiful here...spring weather has stayed a few weeks longer...it has been tough to stay inside...but I see we are starting to creep into the 90's. by this weekend..so more time to play inside again.

till later, Louise

[Alice in Bama]

Louis
Can you give us a hint or 2 on what kind a patterns you are working on and when they will be on your site

Alice

[Lorraine K]

Louise-
Thanks so much for posting those two sites - I immediately saved them to my sewing inspiration folders,  We always benefit from your snooping - thanks for sharing!

And of course, any time you  mention a new pattern I can't wait for details.

Lorraine

[blue mooney]

If you want a cuff, placket, etc. on the sleeve, find another sleeve pattern The Perfect Blouse or Your Everyday Drifter. Fold the sleeve pattern that is going to be used as the extension at the corners of the sleeve cap and underarm seam. Now you are only seeing the lower protion fo the sleeve. Tape it to the corners of the Camp shirt sleeve....use the Camp shirt corners and underarm seams as the guide for the sleeve entension lines.  You are really only wanting the placket, pleats and width of the lower section of the sleeve. 'True' up your seam by the time you get to the cuff area so the placket and cuff are able to be sewn, when you get to that point.  Make sure the front of the sleeve is toward the front of the sleeve for the two patterns.

When wearing the blouse/shirt...roll up the cuff several times...so no one sees all the work you just did! .

I followed Louise's suggestions (I wanted a long, cuffed sleeve on the Town & Country camp shirt) and everything worked beautifully. I also consulted David Coffin's Shirtmaking book for instructions on making a real sleeve placket. Between his directions and Louise's super instructions I have a lovely pink linen shirt that I am wearing right now! It's also the prototype for my 49'er shirt jacket which is up next. I pre-treated the wool last night.

This is only my second pattern from Louise (the one-seams was the first). It's great to have such a classic style coupled with directions that yield a really nice finish. It will get made again & again.

[Terri K]

Just got the latest newsletter e-mail.   I ordered the newest booklet Cutting Through The Clutter that's on sale with her other new items.

Took some pics of my finished ABO top in the silk noil and will get them posted soon.  It's great with the stripe and a taupe textured rayon that textured up even more after I washed it.

[marciae]

I, too, just ordered the new book.  Have the other two fairly new ones - since I'm leaving Sat for a week in Mex I have really enjoyed having the Cutting across the country book!  Need to hem and sew across the elastic in my OS's to take - will finish that today.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I would love to give you hints on the new patterns...but I can't. The patterns will have to be kept under wraps (oops pun) until after the fashion show at the HGA Convergence in 2008. The patterns will coincide with the event a year from now in June.

I am meeting with the weaver for the first time tomorrow. She and I have been paired together by the directors of the event. I still can't believe I am one of only three designing sets who have been invited to participate in a juried, international fashion show. Designing from the fabric forward. Everyone else who wants to show must submit their work to be judged for acceptance. This is why I had to get the drafting done before I met with her tomorrow, so she can see just what she is in for.
http://www.weavespindye.org/

I have a few other drafting’s on the table at the moment. As soon as I get them moving forward I will let you all in (a bit).

Thank you for all the orders that have been coming in today.

I’m glad your long sleeve Town and Country turned out well.

For some reason, I think I have time to sew…I have been pulling out fabric from my stash and then pulling out the patterns and buttons, etc. I actually got 2 new outfits completely finished…that is how I was able to post the changes to the Less is More…I wrote it as I was doing the sewing…same way I write the directions to my patterns…each and every step, I sew it, illustrated it, and then write the instructions in long hand. By the time I am done there are more arrows up and down the margins telling myself to move this or that ahead or someplace else in the copy. By the time I am finished there about 100 asterisks…look here…look there…this goes before that and so on.  This is why the pattern usually comes with 8 pages of instructions and about 100 illustrations…I want you to get the very best and know how to sew it professionally.

I hope some of you were able to see the 5 part (I think) series on PBS last night.

http://www.weavespindye.org/pdf/craftinamerica.pdf

The TV guide said it was on from 8:00pm  through out the evening. I have 3 different PBS stations I am able to get within the 5000+ channels of junk and none of them had it on their schedule! I finally found it searching by hours and it was on one of the 3 channels from 1 o'clock in the morning until 6 o'clock. I did tape it...but I guess it was much more important to have a 25 year retrospective of Elvis for 3 hours on last night instead. PBS has been advertising this Crafting in America in magazines nationally. So check your own listings and see if your PBS stations might carry it again (or at all)

Well, till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Posted photos of my silk noil ABO top done the traditional way with facings and mitered hem.   The knits don't have the facing or shoulder tab and mitered hem.   Got some finishing to do on more tops but will be packing for another week long trip, leaving tomorrow, so I'm going to review the tips in Louise's booklet about travel wardrobes that I got at the Expo in Feb.

[Terri K]

Wasn't sure where to post this, but I was working out a travel wardrobe using Louise's travel booklet.  Here's the album of what I've put together using the latest finished garments - don't we all want to wear our new stuff 

Album Travel Wardrobes  

There is one meeting this week and the rest is transitioning projects since I'm retiring end of month.  The organizational picnic is Wed.  That's how I planned my wardrobe.   I'm picking up DS from Dulles when he returns from Europe on Sat and we'll stay at my friends monolithic dome house in Louisa Co VA Saturday night and then on Sunday head out I64 to 29 through Danville, VA  and then to Greensboro NC and then home.   Maybe I'll check out PA Fabric Outlet on Friday, my day off - although I hate going to Baltimore on Friday (Wash-Baltimore traffic)  - for some snap tapes and whatever else they may have.

[Rosemary]

Terri,
What a nice treat to see your travel wardrobe. It ihas a lot of great options.

[Towanda]

 Maybe I'll check out PA Fabric Outlet on Friday, my day off - although I hate going to Baltimore on Friday (Wash-Baltimore traffic)  - for some snap tapes and whatever else they may have.

Terri, you can save yourself a trip.  Almost two months ago, the store closed without warning. There were no signs posted. I had been there a couple of weeks before and everything seemed okay. I really miss the store and now the Joann's across the street is closing.

[vtmartha]

I love your travel wardrobe, Terri.  I, too, was inspired by Louise's travel book.  I've followed SWAP's regularly but, quite frankly, couldn't see myself making a coordinated wardrobe to suit my life - cleaning horse stalls, mowing lawns, weeding, etc. - although I have considered it.  I'm one of numerous Vermont PhD's who 'returned to the land' and now I am doing my best to stay above it!  Traveling is the one time I would like to feel 'put together'.  It would be nice to be able to grab a 'satchel' of clothes and run out the door - not likely, but at least possible!

[Terri K]

Thanks for the complements ladies!   The other thing I do is to check the weather - don't want any surprises, and check everything and make repairs if it needs it.   Don't take something that needs fixing because you'll never have time to and won't wear it.  I had to zig-zag a portion of the ruffled edge (selvedge) of that Tango Skirt that was pulling apart. 

Towanda - Thanks for posting about PA Fabric Outlet.   They always had some neat trims, if nothing else caught your eye, and some nice people are out of jobs too.   I'd been seeing snap tape all over and I had gotten some there before. 

MarthaVT,  Agree!   I'm going to be like you in a month so a lot's going up on eBay.   Well, gotta hit the road now.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I just had a few minutes, I'm starting to pull everything together for the trip to Texas. Fabric is coming in like crazy for the ride.

Also had a minute to look at your tavel wardrobe, Terri, not only does it look great, but the pix at the end with the colors and textures is what it is all about. Just starting to build on a theme and a plan.

I have been waiting until another picture showed up on e-bay for the Less is More top I wrote about last week and how to change it into the Monk's top from Eskandar. The lady who is selling the garments on e-bay....must have an in with Neimans, she get the best stuff ...not your normal garments, but from small designers and all new merchandise! Plus, she takes great (and many, many) pictures from all sides, very close up details, and measures the garments in a ton of different places for us .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ESKANDAR-Deep-Mocha-Tweed-Cash-Silk-Reg-Monks-Top-NEW_W0QQitemZ320123567069QQihZ011QQcategoryZ15769QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

I am still waiting for the other Eskandar top to be pictured, before I write about it...there have be two pictures, but not showing any detail.

Well, back to work trying to answer a bunch of e-mail for ladies wanting help. Some other e-mails are about coming to teach at different locations around the country...will keep you posted.  till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm on the road to Texas. To cut the time...something like 20+ hours driving...we are looking for (really the GPS system is looking for) shopping. So if I find some cool and wonderful details I will post when we get off the road tonight.

One plus...living in the south...a folded linen shirt for wearing today...had the 'fold' wrinkle lines last night when I took it out of the suitcase.This moring no more wrinkles. I didn't even have to hang it in the bathroom with a hot shower...just hanging it up...that did it! It's June and it is the south!

Sandy, Mary-Francis (my name for the GPS system), and I are on the road again.

till later, Louise

[marciae]

We were in Mex for a week - my new book was here waiting for me - Cutting thru the Clutter - GREAT book - and I just have barely skimmed thru it!! (NAYY).  We'll "move" to the cabin on Wed so plan on spending lots of time on the deck reading and trying to absorb all the info.  Did anyone else get the book - what do you think??

There was soooo much moisture and humidity there (Cozumel) - my clothes were damp when we got home - had clothes everywhere so they'd dry out!

[Terri K]

Mine was waiting for me too Marcia!    I was working in the DC area all last week and got home yesterday.   Travel wardrobe worked out great - weather was hot, hot.    I was exhausted after driving all day from Springfield VA where I was staying to the Asheville NC area.  The cream linen crop pant was worth it's weight in gold in the car!   I always wear breathable fabrics in light colors to reflect the sun.

I picked up DS from Dulles Airport late Saturday since his flight from Munich was delayed 7 hr.   By the time he got out of the international arrivals, it was midnight.    We left in the morning and I drove half and then he drove the rest.   After getting something to eat, showering and savoring it in bed, I got about halfway through it and fell asleep.    So far, it's the best (and most practical) book at any price I've read for style and wardrobe, and the only one geared to women who sew.    To anyone who is thinking about ordering,  I highly recommend this new booklet and the travel one as they complement each other.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I got to play before we start to work on the booth today. Yesterday we were able to get to Neimans and Saks.....always snoop at the best.  I was really looking at details on garments. The one that really stands out was a 'echo stitched' collar on an Ellen Tracy jacket.  The jacket was in a royal navy colored linen with white stitching. Usually I have seen 'echo stitching' just running parallel to the out side long edge of collar about a presser foot apart. But the one I saw had the stitching turning at the short front edge so the stitching also became parallel to the short front edge. Turning a right angle for each line of stitching...very effective. There was a tie belt with the jacket and the 'echo stitching' was completely along the width of the belt. A very nice summer look. Great for BPD jacket

Then I saw white linen blouse with about 1/4" of raw edges on both sides of the front button band. There was a khaki colored linen tucked under, both layers stitched in place and let to 'bloom'. Then on the front of the blouse there were 'tucks' of the same effect. The blouse in white and the khaki linen tucked under, double stitched and then the two layers blooming raw edges. Three tucks on each side about 2 1/2 apart. The sleeve had the khaki as an inside deep hem about 3". So if the sleeve hem was turned back you would see the khaki. Two rows of stitching around the bottom of the sleeve and then the two layers of white and khaik linen left to bloom to the 1/4" or so.   

The straight bottom of the blouse was just the single layer had 2 rows of stitching and the raw edge...Think...A Perfect Blouse pattern 

till later, louise

[DeniseM]

Louise, I wish you had snuck a few snapshots of those pieces. They sound gorgeous. Thanks for the descriptions. They are inspiring.

[Terri K]

Louise and Denise,  Prada also does some interesting finishes for the edges of her garments.  TJMaxx in Vienna VA had a group of high end designer garments while I was there end of April.  There was a Prada tan poplin short sleeve shirt dress that had the linen tucked under the edges.   

Was the white linen blouse by Ellen Tracy?   It might be on her website or Saks 

[sewsy]

PRADA at TJ Maxx!    OMG. I would've thought I'd been in seventh heaven! 

[Terri K]

They know where the $$ is!   You can't buy a house anywhere near there for less than $1M.

[redhead]

Good to know.  I'll know to make a shopping stop when I'm in those kinds of environs.  Thanks!

[Terri K]

Geez I went to the eBay link for that Eskandar Monk's Top Louise posted and saw  that someone actually paid $599 for this sloppy looking one measuring a whopping 68" around top to bottom!! That's more than I am tall       Better to make your own version of a tunic and fit it accordingly either using the Less is More tunic or the one from the Stars in Heaven that is described as moderately fitted.

They must have also bought the matching pant because I didn't see it.   The same seller has a pair of heavy "6-ply" silk one-seam pants (retail $1,060) for a bargain "Buy it Now" price of $529 - what a deal!  Is there such a thing as 6-ply silk anyway 

[fzxdoc]

 Is there such a thing as 6-ply silk anyway 

Terri, I nearly bought some 6-ply silk last year from www.anjooriansilks.com.  They custom dye it--you just send them a Behr's paint chip and they will match the chip.  A friend told me that Peggy Sagers wore a pair of 6 ply silk pants at an Expo and that they were gorgeous--very drapey as you can well imagine.  Then that friend subsequently found some 6 ply silk on the remnant sale table at Denver Fabrics.  FWIW, the woman at Anjoorian Silk said that she thought that 4 ply was as nice or nicer than 6 ply.  She called 4 ply silk the "Cadillac of silks". 

Here is a link to a rough finished 6-ply Thai silk: six ply Thai silk

Now back to your regularly scheduled programming...

Kathryn

[Linda 75142]

I'll be at Martha Pullen's Sewing Market tomorrow in Arlington, TX.  I can't wait to see all of Louise's wonderful things in her booth.  I hope to pick up a couple of patterns that I don't have and maybe another booklet.  What a treat it will be.  I'm sure my credit card will be smokin'.................I'll report back on Friday.

[sewsy]

Hope you have a wonderful time, Linda!

[Terri K]

Linda - you will have a great time    I understand that Louise was making some new garments for her trunk show there so be sure to try them on and everything else!!   That's how I decided to buy some of the patterns I did.   That's what they're there for.   

Kathryn - thanks for the info.   I agree.   I love 4-ply silk and other similar weights of rayons and blends that drape beautifully.    I bought the nicest heavy rayon from Louise a couple of years  ago at  an expo in a chocolate brown.   I had made the one-seam pant from same fabric, in dk gold from Germany when Couture Fabrics of Alexandria was still in business.   They would get swatches from a German company of all these beautiful heavy washed linen/rayons and rayons, etc.   Not cheap but then,  I'm still wearing the garments I made from them!!   Cost per wear is what's important.

[Linda 75142]

Had a great time at Martha Pullen Market.  Got to see Louise--she looked great and her wonderful self.  Picked up the Cutting Through the Clutter Book and the pattern A Perfect Blouse--don't know why I hadn't bought it before now.  Haven't had a chance to sit down with the book yet, but I know I'm going to love it.

One of the girls in the booth had on a lovely linen shirt.  It wasn't the APB so I asked her about it.  It is the Farewell to Arms, but blouse length and split all the way open the front.  It was great.  I must do one!

As ususal, came home so inspired--now just to find the time to do all that's in my head!!!!!

[LyndaC]

FYI, the fabulous Peggy Sager's pants were EIGHT ply silk.  I asked her.  I had never seen such before.  She admitted that it cost quite a bundle.  Of course, she looked great in them.

[Terri K]

Last night I was looking at the Shearling/Sherpa at FabricMart and it reminded me of the Kiwi Sherpa & Suede By Popular Demand Jacket that I'd seen on the Fabric Collections gallery.   

I remembered reading somewhere that Louise wrote instructions for this, but couldn't find anything on her web site      So I e-mailed Louise about the fabrics and asked her where I could get the instructions.  BTW - she said that was a really good price for the fabric !   She's back from the Arlington TX  event and responded that she wrote an 8 page instruction pamphlet with everything that is needed to turn the BPD into the 'Sherpa' jacket, noting  A lot of seams need to be removed and it is sewn in a lapped seam construction/steam-a-seam to hold the layers together and tons of 'sherpa' droppings everywhere. You only need about 1 3/4 yds for the BPD jacket (like the pattern)....because of all the seams cut off, no 2" extra needed for the hem and no front facing a lot of fabric can be saved. "    To get them, send her  $5.00 along with a SASE with 2 stamps on it & she'll mail you the instructions sheets. 
 

[template]

Hello everyone. Can someone please give me a hint on how to layout the neck facing for the top in Anything but Ordinary (right side of fabric or wrond side.. It is a one piece facing, the opening on the left shoulder is left open. I have tried and tried and still end up with the opening on the right side. I have a mental block on this one. The last one I made I just sewed the right shoulder all the way and the facing seam, it ended on the right shoulder. It actually looks very good without the button. And the neck opening is big enough to go over my head. Has anyone had this little problem?. Bye for now. Louise I promess to be good and keep on trying. Hugs to the kitties. I hope this makes sense.