Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Yes, but you can get in the USA. I think the one you got was a spot in England. I saw that also last night when I googled her name.
http://www.norton.org/store/birdoffashion.htm

This will take you to the book for sale at the Norton Museum.

getting back to packing ...leave tomorrow. trip 13 for the year. Later, Louise

[mardel]

I have the book and it is worth every penny.  I shall drooling over this book for a looong time.  It is also available from Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Rare-Bird-Fashion-Irreverent-Apfel/dp/0500513449/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-3469998-9332869?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1178226319&sr=8-1

[nanflan]

I've been fascinated with the museum show ever since I read about it in the NY Times. I'm so glad they finally published the book, which is just great! I only wish that I were close enough to Palm Beach to see it.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I did order the book for Amazon...and while I was there also saw the Ralph Rucci book and the Balenciaga book. The Balenciaga show is now in Dallas and I believe will be there until the end of May. I was wanting it to run through mid June when the Martha Pullen sewing expo is in Dallas. But, I guess the book will be the next best thing.

I have been getting e-mails about the garments in the article in Threads. Ladies are trying to figure out what I did to the  pattern for the BPD jacket turning it into a coat. I know Terri had a picutre she took when it was hanging Waechters that she had a link to. Threads put a wide leather belt on it for styling. The home dec B&B jacket that is in the article has traveled more miles than I have. I've yet to wear it!

Terri, I haven't had any updates on the Retreat at Waechters that Linda Lee and I are doing. That one is going through the store. I have been working very hard trying to send the info to all who requested it for the second one Linda and I are having here in Florida next January. It has filled...the last spot went Sunday night. It filled in less than a week, we are now taking spots for a waiting list.

I can't  remember which chat area, but someone asked me when the Martha Pullen show(s) that I am doing will be broadcast. I don't know, but I will find out. I know so many PBS stations are no longer airing sewing shows. Martha has DVD's, in fact they sent me one so I could see the format of the show. I looked at it today! Nothing like planning ahead. Well, I hurried up to the sewing room and made a lot more step-by-step samples. Gaud, a half hour program sure 'eats' up samples in the time alloted.

Will,best run...still have stuff to do...if nothing else get the cats out of the suitcase so I can pack it...and clean the fur from all the dark garments. till later, Louise     

[Terri K]

Louise,  when I was at Waechter's last weekend, they were looking at locations based on the planned number of attendees, date - time of year and cost, of course.    It won't be at Waechter's but off site somewhere in the Asheville area. 

The BPD photos are under my album for Cutting Line Designs -  taken when you were at Waechter's.   

Oh, and I saw a Zoran top out of black waffle pique, similar to the top with the ABO.   I like the ABO top much better and have some stretch black pique that I'm going to use.   It will be a good basic!     

[Linda 75142]

Louise, I got to see the Balenciaga exhibit in Dallas a month or so ago.  It  is FABULOUS.  You will love (if you haven't received it already) the book.  My friend and I were almost standing on our heads to try to see the undesides of some of the dresses.  The secuirty guard came over once when I think she thought we were going to climb the display platform.  (We were good girls--climbing was never our intention!!!)

[Terri K]

Hi Louise,  I finally got a chance to read the latest Threads everybody's been talking about.  The only independent patterns featured in the article on home dec fabrics are your By Popular Demand 3/4 jacket and the Butterfly & Bees jacket.   Did you make up the B&B jacket or did they?   It sure shows a whole different look for that one.  The BPD is that gorgeous classic I photographed at the Waechter's trunk show.   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

 

Did you make up the B&B jacket or did they? 

I did, I made it for the Puyallup show in Feb. It had to be used on stage, so I did not get to wear it. I also have a pair of One-Seams and the ABO top in the peanut butter color of the second layer made....all have been traveling (almost as much as me) around to the different shows. I saw the big clothing boxes ( from the Manchester event) in the front hall last night when I got home so I know the ABO top is in one. Threads sent the jackets back the day I left so the jackets are in one of them...I think the One Seam pants are in the closet...if all goes well, I have all the pieces back together again (4 months later) and will be able to wear the outfit in Texas next month.  .

I did find out when ...Kind'a...the 2 Martha Pullen shows will be on. This fall and next spring....the numbers are 2712 and 2812, so than might help.

I know the dates for the retreat in November have now been set for Waechter's...I have a bunch of e-mailes I have to answer and orders to fill.

I was wanting the box of books that I ordered to also be in the front hall...no just 5 boxes full of garments to hang back up and steam...I just got the new Rowenta floor steamer...nice to steam wrinkles out instead of ironing everything each time. I had a plug outlet put in my closet when we remodeled the house years ago just for that reason.

So now I will have to wait until Monday to see the Balenciaga book...I did get an e-mail saying the Rare Bird of Fashion, the Balenciaga book and the Rucci book has all been sent.

I kills me that the event you saw in Texas will not be there when we arrive next month...grrr

got to run...till later, Louise

[reanns]

Louise, when will you notify those who 'made it' for the January retreat?

[QueenBee]

Louise, when will you notify those who 'made it' for the January retreat?

I hope you make the cut! The 2 workshops I had here at our Guild with Louise were wonderful. Good luck!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

If all goes well today, and I get all the clothes hung up that are now out of their boxes...if you see them in a stack...it makes an even bigger impression , I have to cut fabric for a core wardrobe for a new class and new booklet out later this summer. Oh goodie, Sandy and I get to sew a whole bunch of clothes that neither one of can wear...they get to live on the rolling rack for a while. Then match the buttons, patterns and any notions needed. 

After that I am starting on a new pattern, or two or three. Well, I will start with the first one. More on that later...once it is underway.

The Retreat people have been e-mailed (29 in all). And the waiting list poeple have been e-mailed (10 in all). But the Retreat in Asheville in November is a go! I received an e-mail from 2 ladies about doing one in New England with Linda and myself. So I will look into that shortly.

I have so much fabric stacked up on the end of my cutting table...just calling to be cut and sewn ...and sewn in my size...not the rolling rack size. I don't know, I might have to make a pair of Capri One-Seams so I feel I have done something for myself...that is about an hour of me time sewing. That should make my day.  After all it is Mother's Day and the 2 kitties said to "Go for it!"

till later, Louise

[QueenBee]

Hey campers! I started an Info Index on the Patterns and Instructions Child Board for Louise's patterns. I had a little brain sneeze and called it *Louise Cutting Patterns*, not CLDP, but have asked the Mods to correct it. I'll be gone for a few days and will start compiling the index upon my return.

[Lisa]

Fixed, Rene Marie!

Lisa

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have been playing with some of the CLD patterns and after I get the wording and measurements down, I'll let you know what changes need to be made for new (and very $$$ designer) details.

Don't let me get in the sewing room with scissors and fabric .....later, gang, Louise

[marciae]

Would you hurry!!

[Alice in Bama]

Can you believe I'm already sewing up the fabric I got at this year's expo?  Next thing we know,  there'll be reports of flying pigs...

I bought a bee-you-tiful piece of rayon fabric from Louise, intending to make a shirt from it, but once I got home with it it insisted on becoming a skirt.  And I knew just what skirt...the Farewell to Arms 'Almost Bias' skirt.  I'd almost missed that skirt; I originally got the pattern for the dress, but when I saw the skirt on models in the Indy Pattern Style Show, I realized I'd been overlooking a gem.    I did change the pockets...used the same altered pockets I put on the In the Trenches skirt...and I shortened it a wee bit...but this is a great skirt pattern!  I think I'll wear this one to death...and make a few more!

Here's one photo
Here's another

Don't make my mistake and overlook this skirt...it's a keeper!

I also love this skirt pattern Made it for easter with the matiral i got at louise booth ant the GA expo also it was aqua whit white flowers and a aqua jacket I just love this pattern!!!!

[blue mooney]

Louise, I'm making the camp shirt from Town&Country, and would like it to have a long sleeve with a cuff. Can I use the sleeve from the other blouse in the envelope? I see that the two yokes are different. I'd appreciate any suggestions! Thanks for your help.

[marciae]

I'm not Louise but I asked the same question last summer!  No you can't use that sleeve pattern.  I morphed the sleeve from the perfect blouse pattern and it worked great.  After doing all that I wear the shirt with the sleeves rolled up!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm not Louise but I asked the same question last summer!

I don't even think I am this morning!!! I had to stop playing on the cutting table....plus I'm looking for a picture on the web to show you the garment I morphed my ABO into. I have illustrations for the new book to do today...so no play day today either.... ...boo-hiss.

No you can't use that sleeve pattern.  I morphed the sleeve from the perfect blouse pattern and it worked great.  After doing all that I wear the shirt with the sleeves rolled up!!

Thanks for answering...I check last night and didn't see any new questions...but here they were this morning.

The sleeve cap and armscye are different on the 'Town' (deep pleat shirt) and the 'Country' (camp shirt). You can 'marry' two different sleeves together or extend the underarm sleeve seam down  of the camp shirt sleeve to create a longer sleeve...this is a great solution if you are planning on rolling the sleeve up at the end anyway. Extend the lines down, fold the sleeve in half vertically matching the underarm seam lines and draw a line across the bottom of the sleeve...give your self a hem allowance...I like to turn a sleeve hem twice  so it is 'clean finished' along the lower edge...I don't like to see a serging line of stitches if the sleeve is only turned once. Don't forget the 'turn of the cloth' at the hem area...that little 'hunk' (I'm sure that is a sewing term) of fabric that sticks out after the hem fold along the seam line.

If you want a cuff, placket, etc. on the sleeve, find another sleeve pattern The Perfect Blouse or Your Everyday Drifter. Fold the sleeve pattern that is going to be used as the extension at the corners of the sleeve cap and underarm seam. Now you are only seeing the lower protion fo the sleeve. Tape it to the corners of the Camp shirt sleeve....use the Camp shirt corners and underarm seams as the guide for the sleeve entension lines.  You are really only wanting the placket, pleats and width of the lower section of the sleeve. 'True' up your seam by the time you get to the cuff area so the placket and cuff are able to be sewn, when you get to that point.  Make sure the front of the sleeve is toward the front of the sleeve for the two patterns.

When wearing the blouse/shirt...roll up the cuff several times...so no one sees all the work you just did! .

tons to do...till later, Lousie   

[blue mooney]

Thanks, Marciae - Shows that I should have started my cut&paste notebook from these threads long ago...you never know when you'll want to do something where someone else has already worked out the kinks. I hope you're still enjoying your shirt with the sleeves rolled up!

And thanks again, Louise - I know you're a busy lady!

I'll use the camp shirt sleeve cap and a different bottom - I think a real placket will look sharp with the fabric I'm using.

[marciae]

Every time I read something about a change to Louise's patterns - or others - I copy, print and stick it in the pattern!  It has helped me many times!  Don't know why I'm so organized about that!   I'm going to make a short sleeve camp shirt - after I make two pair of OS's!!  I really like sleeves that come mid way between my wrists and elbows - so may try that also.

[Alice in Bama]

Blue moon when you finish the shirt let me know how you like it i been thinking of ordering it and east meets west , in the trenches I will most all her {louise] patterns

 I am going to work on a shirt patern tommoroe  I have trouble with the bust area being to bulky - but ever thing else fit great I also going to make a no seam jpants out of  light wieght  white deimn  Since cannot find the jpair i made earlier this spring figurre it s problaly eaier to do that way got the pants down to about an hour

[Rustybobn]

Hi,

Does anyone have of a photo of the Farewell to Arms dress on a dress form or a real person?  After having the pattern nearly two years, I'm finally preparing to sew it.

I found photos of the shirt, but I'd really like to see the dress.

Thanks,

Beth

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I don't have one...I have the dress but not a photo of it. I hope someone else does. Make sure you look at the finished maeasurements on page 1 (I think) of the instructions for the hip and bust area. This should fit like a column dress, with just enough sitting ease with about 4"-5" at the hip area. Making it in a size with too much ease will start to make it look like a sack and I don't think you would be pleased. 

Also get the length correct before you start because of the hem line curve in fornt and mitered corners in back.

till later, Louise

[Rustybobn]

Thanks, Louise.  I'll keep your suggestions in mind as I trace the pattern. 

-Beth

[Terri K]

East Meets West    Detailed Description

No side seam kimono. Very loose-fitting, unlined, two lengths. Ideal for a beautiful print. Simple sewing with clean, Asian inspired lines. Wide, full-length sleeves with cuffs. Wear with sash for a fabulous dress or relaxed as a go anywhere jacket.
* Not suitable for petite women (under 135 pounds) - can you please explain? 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Not suitable for petite women (under 135 pounds). 

I'm glad you wrote that Terri...that has been on the back of the envelope and was put there by my editor when it first came out...I had it removed several printings ago. That doesn't mean that it somehow doesn't reappear. The last printing for the One Seam Pants (now this is after 40,000 patterns have been printed and sold) the printing company put either 2 straight leg patterns or 2 tapered leg patterns in the envelope. This has now been corrected.

On the EMW pattern there are vertical lines on the front and back of the tissue pattern so excess can be taken out to fit a small size. Also tissue can be added so it can be enlarged along these lines.

I have had women  at the sewing shows say they made it for their husbands as a robe (never showing the pix on the envelope to them ) out of terry, another did a silk outside and a terry inside.

The patten also has a horizontal line through the middle of the lower portion of the pattern so it can be lengthened or shortened to any length.

I love it out of a border print or a hand dyed silk and without any seams along the sides, nothing is broken up with a stitching line.

back to work,,,till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Thanks for the response Louise.  I was curious why the statement is on your website with the pattern description.   You should have your web support remove it, since it no longer applies.

[DeniseM]

Thank goodness. I thought I was going to have to regain the weight I've lost to make this one.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Gaud, thank for a second pair of eyes...I am able to do something on the web site with out webboy. That sentense is now gone!

I remember a million years ago when I was doing fashion illustrations for the newspaper for a department store, we only were able to use one color plus the black lines in our advertising. These second colored ads were saved for really special occasion ads (because it was very expensive to do the second color back in the olden' days) for a full page Mother's Day ad or Christmas ad, but I was asked "did I hand color every newspaper as it was being printed?"  I bring this up, because I fear, I now have to go to everyone who has pruchased the EMW pattern and 'white-out' that sentense on the envelope. How times have changed...even the NY Times have had to go to full color now. But I still think of the odd question and the thoughts of me standing at the end of the printing presses with a magic marker coloring the perfume, slippers, scaft etc. all in the same color 'pink'...reminds me of the I love Lucy and the chocolates on the conveyor belt.

gotta go, later Louise

[Fabricarts]

Louise,
  While you are whiting out or coloring in, maybe you could waft a little of your favorite scent over the patterns too!
You give such great service to your customers - even without the white out.
Miriam

[Terri K]

I'm taking a break from cutting out, after a bit of planning for summer tops out of the new ABO top pattern.  This is a really fast and easy pattern.  As you may recall, I made the first one in February using a knit and just turned under the seam allowances. * Wanted to add that I cut away one inch from the neckline and then used a 5/8" serged and stitched seam allowance.

For the new ones:  I was playing around with some fabric "leftovers" - pieces too big to pitch after making other garments.  I had some black stretch pique that I had made the LH sheath dress from and I had a skirt from a knock-off "designer" plaid from a few years back -- so I thought black pique top with plaid facings, tab and lined sleeves  with the plaid just peeking out when the sleeve is turned up.  Then I had some nice white pique knit that I had made a summer suit from - had just enough for a top and then what to do with some of those heirloom edgings - the neckline  .   Then a wonderful piece of the finest Swiss cotton with a drawn thread design that I had made a blouse from - for another top with Swiss edging on the sleeves and neckline.  And two more, one from an awesome zebra knit remnant and the last, a coffee brown silk noil to match my Heading for Adventure striped linen jacket.  On the zebra knit top neckline,  I'm going to take a cross-cut knit strip and sew it along the unfinished edge for a neat ripple effect (see Louise's Master Class article on raw edge techniques in  Threads #121 - the one with the fabulous article on Chanel jackets).

These will complement my existing jackets, pants and skirts.  Photos in my Cutting Line Designs album.   And this was after planting the herbs, scented geraniums, and two native azaleas we brought home from the Black Mountain garden show we went to Sat morning.

[marciae]

Terri - nice ideas.  I should dig out the top pattern and make some tops per your idea - would be quick, easy - and always looks good.  I have some linen I'm going to try the wider legged OS - think I'll make a ABO top to go with!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I had a play day today. Saw a beautiful midnight navy linen classic Italian waiter's jacket from Armani that was about high hip length with small (about 3/8") oval ball buttons in a soft matt brass color all the way down the front. The keyhole buttonholes were 1" apart from the neck to the hem, which meant there were about 25 buttons. It looked like a string of gold colored pearls. The jacket was buttoned all the way up except for the top 4 or 5. it really was a great look. Later, saw a Creamsicle colored linen jacket from Ellen Tracy with 7/8"-1" buttons down the front about 2" apart.

Neimans was just putting out their early fall Armani's..short jacket in several different colors...but all dark. The high hip length jacket had a diagonal front buttoning from the shoulder to the center waist...that was the angle, but it has a 1 1/2" standing collar...that stood away from the neck...very Audrey Hepburn....Hubert de Givenchy looking late 60's to early 70"s.

till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I’ve been seeing tunics in so many designer’s collections, I wanted to give you a great change to the Less is More Pattern. So, pull this pattern out of your stash and with a few very, very simple changes to the pattern you will be able to achieve an expensive looking designer top. The pattern pieces are already there, just a few lines and a totally different look is possible. 

The links show a very oversized tunic. This is what Eskandar is known for. I whet snoop shopping as I told you the other day and wanted to show you what I found. I’ve just been waiting for some pictures to appear on the internet so you can see exactly the finished garment. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ESKANDAR-LIGHT-BLUE-DENIM-COWL-NECK-TOP-BIG-SZ-0_W0QQitemZ110130215522QQihZ001QQcategoryZ63868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This is the tunic in a size ‘0’ and the measurements are bust - 62" length - 26.5"

http://cgi.ebay.com/Brown-Baby-Camel-Hair-Monks-Top-1-NWT-30-Long_W0QQitemZ130116905340QQihZ003QQcategoryZ63868QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

This is the tunic in a size ‘1’ and the measurements are bust - 66" length - 30"

Now you are the designer. You don’t have to make the tunic as large around the circumference if you don’t choose. But I have been shopping with a size 8-10 person and they tried on both the size ‘0’ and the size ‘1’…both looked great on her.

The trick is, when you are wearing a roomy sized garment, a small shoulder pad will ‘square’ up your shoulders and the width of your hips IS the width of the garment. It stops where you stop.

I have now made this top up with the changes written here about 6 times in linen (some double sided so when worn the inside color shows at the funnel and the rolled cuff), Tasmanian wool and wool crepe. It looks great with tapered One-Seam Pants© or Capris. When worn the funnel slides over the head and where and how it stops is the way it is worn…it is a ‘crunch’ neck. It should not be turned in to a cowl. (very dated).

You will be using the Shell from the Less is More pattern. The finished circumference measurements range from 42”- 54”. You can stick with your size or go up in size if you want to experiment a bit. As you can see, the circumference measurement is no even close to the designer size. If you want to achieve that, lay the shell out on your cutting table. You will see that the front and back are cut in one with no shoulder seam. About midway between the center front fold line (this is also the center back fold line) and the side seam, draw a vertical line from front hem over the shoulder to back hem, parallel to the fold line. Cut along this line and add 2” of tissue. When the garment is completed, you have actually have added 8” total to the circumference.

To make the ‘funnel’ neck, take the bias neck pattern piece, in the size you are using. Tape about 18” of pattern tissue paper to the long end of the bias neck. Continue the 2 short ends of the bias binding by drawing 2 vertical lines up 14”. Connect with a horizontal line. This is your complete pattern piece for the ‘funnel’… and is cut on the bias, so when it is worn it will fold and drape nicely around your neckline. (No, the funnel for SinH is not the same length for the Less is More neckline…it is easier to do it the way I have just written).

The construction of the ‘funnel’ seam will be sewn first at ¼” and serged together, pressed the seam one direction and stitched flat. The top hem circumference of the ‘funnel’ needs to be cleaned finished. Press under ½” then press again at 1¼”. Slip Steam-A-Seam under the fold to hold the hem in place while you are edge stitching.

Unlike what the pattern instructions have you do, (place the original bias binding neck edge slightly off the center back), the ‘funnel’ neck seam needs to be placed at the center back of the garment. Pin the funnel to the neckline and stitch at ¼”. Serge the seam and press toward the funnel.

The additional sleeve pattern piece does not need the extended fold back cuff length if you don’t want to use it. For a more casual look, you may use the first ‘fold’ line (closest to the top of the sleeve) as the hem fold. Draw a parallel line 1¾” away for the hem fold line. Just like the ‘funnel’ hem, fold under ½” and then again 1¼” press, Steam-A-Seam and edge stitch. This way when the sleeve is rolled up just once, the reverse side is clean finished.

You can make the tunic any length.  I have seen it from high hip length to the full length tunic that is in the Less is More pattern. Just remember the side slits, it make the garment hang straighter at the sides. 

Enjoy...till later, Louise