Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[Terri K]

Doing some planning using the Heading for Adventure pattern.   I liked the shortened jacket version Louise had a the Tampa Expo in the red & white polka dot, so I'm planning to make a couple in linen.  Here are Louise's instructions: 

All she did was to cut the long duster off at the bottom of the pockets...so that was the length...

The waist casing is the proportions that she put in ITT...measuring from the shoulder seam over the bust point and to the waist, then add 1 1/2" for the blousing...that would be the top of the casing stitching line on the wrong side....

Then she put a vertical buttonhole about 3" away from the center front for the drawstring coming out.   

Take a look at the first three photos in the Cutting Line Designs album in my photos below.   The first is my coloring and sketch of the shortened jacket using her Paper Doll templates with the coffee brown/cream linen stripe to get the proportions of horizontal & vertical stripes.   And then photos of the fabric with the stripes as they would be on sleeves and body.   

Looks like I should just fold up the pattern length to take advantage of the easy miter technique at the hem and leave the sides open like the duster.   

[LindaL]

Here's some NEWS!   Louise and Linda Lee are coming to western NC - Asheville for a sewing retreat sponsored by Waechter's Silk Shop the first week of November!   Joyce told me that she's working on the location and other details.    But I wanted to let you all know about this first so you can plan - maybe an early present to yourself. 

I wasn't able to go to the one they did in January in Florida but this one's in my back yard 

Terri, keep us posted on this.  I want to plan that trip!!!!

[Terri K]

Sure will Linda - I look forward to seeing you again since meeting at ASG last summer!   I drove through Danville the end of January as I was taking 29 across to Greensboro (from 64) and thought of you.    It will be fun to see many of the other SG ladies as well.  Please let me know whenever you might be in town and we can meet - Waechter's is always a good place or the City Bakery next door

[Doris W. in TN]

TerriK - where does Waechters  usually hold their workshops?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Just a quick note...sorry gang...still knee deep in the article for Threads....When I talked to Joyce (the owner of Waechter's Silk Shop) at market last week, she said the retreat will be in a hotel. This way, we will be able to spread out. If it is like the retreat Linda and I had here in Jan...boy did we spread! I think the very first evening will be in the shop to SHOP and get to know each other....with the hotel close by. I know Linda's and my retreat is already full for next Jan, but we are planning a second one at about the same time....more later on that.

I'll try to get back later today to answer questions. I finished up about midnight the first phase of the article...I will hear today what the next steps will be.

Plus, packing everything to ship to Reading,PA and getting the goodies to ship to Worcester.

I'm off...till later, Louise 

[LisaB]

Louise, I'm curious what goodies you'll have in Reading. I'll be there, and it will be my first time to meet you and see things in person. I am so excited!    I've never been to an expo and can hardly believe you're stopping by so close to my neck of the woods!

Lisa

[LOUISE CUTTING]

While I have a few minutes I will try to answer some of the questions that have been posted over the past week.

Re - the pleats shirt - where would I make the FBA?

I tried to answer this question while I was in Las Vegas on the buying trip and it never seemed to get posted...The Pleats blouse in P&P has the deep pleats above the waist and is sewn to a flat section below the waist. The way the blouse is constructed.... the pleat section has to be sewn first, flat...then the upper blouse section is cut from the pleated fabric...this pretty well makes it impossible to make a FBA  The lower front edge of the blouse can be curved to give the appearance that the hem is level. I also need to do a FBA for my body shape and this has worked for me in this pattern. Usually I drop a bust dart in for me when and where I can in my patterns. I don't put bust darts in my patterns because I  don't know where (or how big) your 'girls' are....if the dart is not in the right place, or deep enough for you in YOUR pattern....the dart is useless. 

Please give  us some suggestions for quality fabrics good for high humidity, high heat on this hot  momma's size large body.  I am especially interested in fabrics you might have.   I know your quality and availability is excellent and you are just a UPS stop away! 

Are there any "new" upcoming colors?

I need suggestions for One Seams (making city shorts) and By Popular Demand

Fabrics for that 'certain time of life' and humid weather. Cotton and linen has a great wicking ability. They are making some great blends with rayon...this fabric has a foot in the natural camp so when blended with linen or cotton even better.

I am always getting new fabrics in and is just a SASE away...with 2 stamps.

There was a great Color prsentation  before the IPCA fashion show at the International Textile Show I attended in Las Vegas. Now this is what was said about the Fall '07. Richer, Deeper, Darker....but still Birghts.

The Dark colors: Charcoal Gray, Dark Blue, Deep Lilac, Royal Blue. Gray from light steel to dense asphalt. Blue-greens to Teals. Blues range from powder to dark shades. Greens are showing less importance except for Hunter and Olive...mix with Beet, Eggplant, Prune or Blueberry.

Browns are more golden or Rust in shade. Camel is an important color. Off-White is important.

Golden Yellow, Golden Sands, Orange, Berry with shades of Pink and Red....as you can tell the colors seems to be very intense.

One Seam Pants in city shorts...hmmm?? usually not a good idea...shorts need weight at the bottom at the hem area....One Seams have less structure and with only the one vertical seam...unless your legs have ' never been  friends' (touch in the middle) will shorts work. If you have upper thigh....hmmm...issues...shorts are not the best. Think of Capris or Crops in the One seam instead.

 

Here's some NEWS!   Louise and Linda Lee are coming to western NC - Asheville for a sewing retreat sponsored by Waechter's Silk Shop the first week of November!   

 

Linda and I will be taking our show in the road the first week of November in Asheville. And I'm getting the details finished for a second (additional) retreat here in Jan. Our first week is already full by the ladies attending this past Jan one. 

Terri: I took a quick peek at what you are planning on sewing with the strip linen and HforA...it is going to look great...this is why I developed the 'Paper Dolls' It is a lot easier to design (and make mistakes on a piece of paper than to end up with something you would never finish...the famous 'what was I thinking?'

I hope I have answered all questions...let me know...I'll be back later, I have finished the drafting and text for the article for Threads, but now have to do the step-by-step areas of the different garments for the photo session. Everything has to be shipped on Monday...so I have to scoot. till later, Louise

[Terri K]

As I posted under the topic "Color and Style", here is the direct link to the Fashion Color Report for Fall 2007 .   Pantone is a great resource and the reports are so interesting and inspirational. 

[LindaL]

As I posted under the topic "Color and Style", here is the direct link to the Fashion Color Report for Fall 2007 .   Pantone is a great resource and the reports are so interesting and inspirational. 

Thanks for sharing this information.  I have the Pantone cards and find them very helpful

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I checked out Pantone quite often. I didn't this time for the fall colors 07. Mine was...what I could remember...from the speaker at the International Textile Show a few weeks ago. But the forecast is very similar. I love the Panetone site. They always have beautiful graphics....I read they are now in the interior and exterior paint business, so their 2000+ colors can now be yours.

I am finished with all the step-by steps for the Threads article. It is going over night to get to them at 9 tomorrow morning. . Got 11 boxes packed for Worcester. Reading boxes left on Friday...and I still have a 2 page list of 'to-do' things...how is that possible???

Let me know what you all are working on...I sure it is spring things...especially your northern people ...that better be gone by the time I have to travel to Worcester...I haven't driven in snow...well...never! eek!!!

till later, Louise

[template]

Hello Louise and all. Today while I was in a fabric store looking for linen I came across a bolt of  gorgeous brown fabric. At first when I felt it I thought it was a light worsted wool, but when I checked the salvage I read the following 180  ' S LINEN JAPAN TEKIRO woven the full length of the bolt.  Have you ever heard of this?. Is this an off brand, imitation or the real thing. I did end up getting 5 yards. Bye for now. Take of yourself and hugs to the kitties. Bye for now.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm here in Reading, PA to teach tomorrow and then on my way to Worcester on Sunday...will play in New England for a few days before the Worcester show starts. Scouting out some Fabric Stores...When to Fabric Mart today...some cool stuff there.

Been up since 3AM so I am about ready to hit the wall and need a good night sleep...more tomorrow. till then Louise

[LisaB]

I had the privilege of meeting Louise for the first time yesterday at the workshops she did in Reading, PA. What a wonderful day it was! Louise presented tons of information, and it was all done in an easy to understand way. Plus, we got to see and inspect lots of her clothing that she had brought along. Thanks, Louise! I'm hoping others who attended will join us here.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I had a grand time in Reading last weekend...got to go to Fabric Mart...nothing better than going to see and buy fabric.

I had a few days up here in New England...so I had to go to Banksville Fabrics in Norwalk, CT...they always have some beautiful things.

 

180  ' S LINEN JAPAN TEKIRO woven

I sent this into to a friend who is very familiar with Japanese fabric...as of yet I have not heard back....did you buy it and have you started to work with it?

I'm starting to teaching tomorrow...I'll let you know if I find anything special at the other venders booths. 

I just heard from the editor of Threads today and I will be strating another aritcle Monday on the 'Paper Dolls' and how to work with them in wardrobe building. Will keep you posted on my progress.

Will very early class tomorrow...till later, Louise

[template]

Hello Louise. I am glad you were able to have a few days off in New England.  Regarding the fabric, I did buy 5 yards of it. The feel is like a fine worted wool, will have to do a burn test to see  if I can figure out what I have. I have not started to work with it. I had a back fusion about 8 weeks ago and it is still not too easy to stand in one place for too long. Well take care of yourself and hugs to the kitties. Bye for now.

[LisaB]

I recently purchased several of Louise's booklets and want to try her instructions for converting a collar pattern so that it doesn't have a seamline along the front edge. Actually, I've already converted my pattern, and the reason I'm writing is to inquire about the type of interfacing to use since there will be two layers of it. I'll be using a 100% cotton shirting fabric, and I only have a few interfacing samples on hand. I'll test those but thought those of you who have made A Perfect Blouse in particular might have some recommendations for interfacings you thought worked well in the collar.

Thanks, Lisa

[LOUISE CUTTING]

YOU WILL NEED TO USE A LIGHT WEIGHT WOVEN OR KNITTED INTERFACING SINCE IT WILL BE ON BOTH THE (oops cap lock left on) upper and under collar.

Dream weave, Sewers Dream, Touch o' Gold, iron 100% cotton batiste all would work out just fine. All needs to be pre-shrunk and then applied.

till later, Louise

[Doris W. in TN]

I ... want to try her instructions for converting a collar pattern so that it doesn't have a seamline along the front edge. ..... I'm writing is to inquire about the type of interfacing to use since there will be two layers of it.

Lisa - I'm working on a camp shirt (Vogue 2634) and using a very lightweight, almost handkerchief linen, fabric.   I modified the collar into Louise's style also, since this shirt has a stand/band.   For this fabric I used silk organza.  I used some Roxanne's Glue-Baste-It  (http://www.thatperfectstitch.com/products.html), since it will come out in the wash, to hold the layers together during construction.    My Sit & Sew teacher totally approved of my interfacing choice and method of temporary bonding.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

 I arrived back home yesterday and hit the floor running with two kitties help getting everything out of the suitcase , and continues to get help typing here.

I have all the orders to get out today and start on a new article for Threads (issue #133) for the 'Paper Dolls' for Adults...how to work with them, including wardrobe planning, travel and packing, and sewing with a plan. I have gotten so many e-mails saying it is wonderful for SWAP sewing.

If you have any questions, I am here for the next 10 days or so (Manchester, CT on May 5th). And then filming  two programs for Martha Pullen on May 10.

When I get off the road then, until heading to Texas for Martha's Sewing Expo in June, I have 3 different patterns to draft and get under way. Some cool stuff.

till later, Louise

[nanners]

WOW Louise that is a whole lotta work btween now and June! It was great going to your class and meeting you. And the tips were great! Will have to take your other classes next year. Thanks sooo much!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have been checking in from time to time this past week. I was writing another article for Threads. The issue #133 (I think it is Oct/Nov, but not sure) is going to be on wardrobe planning, and they wanted the article centered around using the 'Paper Dolls for Adults'. I wanted to get it finished and sent, at least the copy, then I will find out soon what else they need for the additional information.

I teach in Manchester, CT next Saturday. I hope to see many of you there. Once the product boxes are sent tomorrow, I begin to work on samples for the step-by-step filming for the Martha Pullen TV show I film in mid May. I will be doing two segments for two different shows.

Yesterday I received a big box from the HGA...Handweavers Guild of America  http://www.weavespindye.org/  I know they have a big convention every other year and people attend from all over the world. I have been seeing some of HGA 2006 Conference items on display at the Sewing Expos this spring, usually in the areas where the quilts, and dolls are located. There are garments and wall pieces, nicely done and nicely displayed. In looking into the HGA on their website they cover a broad area of hand work, including beading, knitting, basketry, color, design, felting, papermaking, as well as sewing.

After a few more cups of coffee, the newspaper, some kitty time on the back patio,(these 3 can be done at one time ) I'll dig into the box and let you know what I received.

Make sure you are signed up for the web site newsletter, I'm going to be sending an e-mail out, if I can, later today. Off to get another cup of coffee. till later, Louise

   

[sewsy]

Hi Louise! Would you happen to know the lead time on the Martha Pullen tapings? I would like very much to be able to tape those shows. I tuned in on America Sews with Sue Hauseman when you were on- but couldn't find a tape!  Thanks. Sewsy

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I finally had a few minutes to see what is in the HGA box. WOW!!! AND WHOW!!! The box was full to the brim with the same beautiful colors of yarns that are on the home page of the Handweaver’s Guild of America’s. http://www.weavespindye.org/

I have been asked to work with a hand weaver and we will be only 1 of just 3 design teams to present at the Designer’s Fashion Challenge. I have been given the yarns 16 months in advance for this creation! WOW!  The Fashion Show will be juried. Oh, wow!!!

The Convergence is every other year and in 2008 it will be held in Tampa (nice for me). There will be over 200 workshops, seminars & lectures presented by experts from all over the world.

I cannot leak my design ideas or details in any way. Well, I better get to work…and this is the last I will get to say, except I am so honored to have been asked!

Till later, Louise

[Fabricarts]

Louise,  It is so exciting to hear about your collaboration on the HGA project. I look forward to the end result - and wish I could be in Tampa in 2008. Convergence is such an exciting event. Have fun with the process.
Miriam

[karent]

Gee, thanks Louise for the heads up.  I think the HGA sounds fun, and I have two sisters in Palm Harbor (a little skip from Tampa) that I can always horn in on.  I will plan to try to make it.  I'm always game for something new. K

[Sew Sew Sandi]

Hi, Louise.  I'm trying to plan some summer capsules using stash fabrics and want to use your BPD and Points & Pleats patterns.  Any tips for selecting appropriate sizing?  It's not like your slick trick of giving myself a wedgie to see what size of One Seams to make.  I know they are loose fitting but I don't want to look like I made the wrong size when I'm done.  Thanks in advance for your help.
Sandi in Iowa

[LOUISE CUTTING]

want to use your BPD and Points & Pleats patterns.  Any tips for selecting appropriate sizing

When I teach, I talk about pattern sizing...not only in my patterns, but in all others as well. Look at the finished  garment measurement in the bust and hip. It is usually on the envelope or on the first page of the directions. Last place to look is on the front of the garment pattern tissue. Any pattern compnay, at least, should give the finished measurements of the garment. My thoughts are, with the price of patterns a designer/company should give you all the help they can right there, in that envelope and not have to make you hunt (or make you buy additional items) on how a pattern needs to be constructed. You can use it or not use their methods, but it should be there to start with. This way, you will get a much more professional looking garment.

Now it is up to you. You know how you like a garment to feel/look on your body....loose or more fitted? This is your preference, not the designers.  Measure something you already have hanging in your closet in a similar style at the bust and hip area so you can see how close the measuements are to the finished sizes in the pattern. Try the garment on and see how it fits. Do you like the way it feels around the bust, hips? Do you need to go up (or down) a size?

Now you can have a better understanding what size you should be in THIS pattern style ONLY. Not the pattern designer or company totally. You can (and usually are) different sizes, even in the different styles in the same envelope. Ain't sewing fun!!!

I hear time and time again when I teach around the country, 'times was....I used to buy a Vogue pattern...cut out a 10 and it would fit...    Well, yes and no. Your garment sewing skills, fitting, personal likes and dislikes have improved greatly. So much is now on the market in the way of books, independent pattern companies, sewing expos, TV programs ,that were not out there when you though you 'walked'  into that 10 pattern size. You are just better! You are more informed, you know to ask questions, and you are a better sewer.

Well, I best get back to sending out the info for the sewing retreat. I think in the past day I have sent out over 200 e-mails for those who are interested. I just received the 5th sign-up deposit. It seems that this one will fill like the first one did...in a matter of a few days.

till later, Lousie   

[Terri K]

Louise, do you have any updated information on the sewing retreat here in Asheville NC sponsored by Waechter's?

[Lisa Laree]

Can you believe I'm already sewing up the fabric I got at this year's expo?  Next thing we know,  there'll be reports of flying pigs...

I bought a bee-you-tiful piece of rayon fabric from Louise, intending to make a shirt from it, but once I got home with it it insisted on becoming a skirt.  And I knew just what skirt...the Farewell to Arms 'Almost Bias' skirt.  I'd almost missed that skirt; I originally got the pattern for the dress, but when I saw the skirt on models in the Indy Pattern Style Show, I realized I'd been overlooking a gem.    I did change the pockets...used the same altered pockets I put on the In the Trenches skirt...and I shortened it a wee bit...but this is a great skirt pattern!  I think I'll wear this one to death...and make a few more!

Here's one photo
Here's another

Don't make my mistake and overlook this skirt...it's a keeper!

[redhead]

That does look great, Lisa. 

[LindaF]

Can you believe I'm already sewing up the fabric I got at this year's expo?  Next thing we know,  there'll be reports of flying pigs...

 

Your skirt is beautiful.  I can see why the fabric was insisting it was a skirt, or a sleevless sundress too.  But I probably think that because I just came back from fun in the sun and that fabric would have fit right in.

Do you have a link to the skirt pattern?

Linda

[fzxdoc]

Very pretty, Lisa!  Plus, you look like you've lost weight. Congratulations!   I may buy TWO of those patterns, the skirt is so slimming!  )

I can see why you were drawn to the fabric--you are definitely ready for spring/summer in that skirt.  Thanks so much for posting the photos.

Kathryn

[Lisa Laree]

Thanks! Um, I've lost a little...6 or 7 lbs; just enough that the fat pants don't feel quite so snug...

Here's the pattern:
Farewell TO Arms

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Lisa, what a great skirt .You did a grand job and yes, since Atlanta you have lost ...always a grand thing.

If any one is waiting make the FTA skirt, at the bottom of the instruction sheet, column 4 lower right side of page 1 is the fitting chart. This skirt hangs straight down the body like a straight skirt until it get to just about you knee and then it swings our like a bias skirt at the bottom. With the way the skirt is drafted, you don't get that Dunkin Doughnut look. You know the one, the  stack with one on top of another. Then the look of fabric stretched over it. I don't think any one over 100 lbs or a size 2 can wear a bias skirt and not have it cling to all the wrong spots.  FTA doesn't do that...it really flatters the body.

The fitting chart does tell you the finished hem 'sweep'...my thoughts were ya, that's nice, but how big is it around the hips...you don't want the look of your grandmothers 'dirndle' skirt. So, on the fitting chart I have the finished garment measurement around the hips. Measure your own hips and add between 3 1/2" - 4" for ease and look at the chart, that is the size you need to make in the FTA skirt. If you need to pinch out (ugh, or add) you can do so along the grain line of each of the gores.

I ran away today. I went to Palm Beach to see the exhibit at the Norton Museum. It just finished at the Met and is  at the Norton until the end of May. I'm not sure if it is traveling to any other museum. It was the clothing and the styling of Iris Apfel. There were over 80 outfits from the 60's right through last year plus all her accessories. It was the first time the Met every let an individual style and accessorize there own exhitbit. She pulled items from designer couture collections and would put them with fleamarket finds. it was one of the best exhibits I have seen. You really could get up very close to the clothes and see all the fine details.  No glass wall between you and the clothing.

Here are two links to her and the Norton has a huge and beautiful book...every picutre is in color and photographed very close up to the garments and accessories.

http://merovingian.org/images/art/iris_apfel/nytimes_iris_apfel_style_nov17_2005.html
http://www.lookonline.com/iristranscriptcomplete.html

its later, and a very long drive down and back. till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Louise,  Is this the book?

Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel will be accompanied by a companion book published by Thames & Hudson, created by renowned photographer Eric Boman. Originally from Sweden, Boman has worked for, among others, Vogue, Marie-Claire and Vanity Fair and has collaborated on many books, including Blahnik by Boman: Shoes, Photographs, Conversation about long time friend and shoe designer, Manolo Blahnik.