Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[Terri K]

I cut out a nice BPD from some kewl stretch denim w/ an interesting filigree pattern on it.  Not at all as tacky as it sounds, after all, the fabric is Italian!   I'm leaving the pockets off since the fabric is much too interesting all by itself.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

i'M JUST COMING UP FOR AIR...oops cap lock left on...getting all the boxes unpacked from Puyallup and Atlanta...have to do inventory before booklets and patterns go on the shelves. Just before I pack for Worcester .

Webboy is coming over tonight to put up the new booklet 'Cutting Across the Country in Style' and the 'Paper Dolls'.... so make sure you are signed up for the newsletter for specials.

I must have handed out over a thousand papers telling people about this site and to come for a visit. Everyone who purchased from me received the info plus they were right by the business cards for others to take. I had to print up new ones bwteen shows...we qave out all I took except for a few at Tampa, Puyallup and Atlanta. 

Lots to do...till later, Louise

[Tricia]

Is the booklet Cutting accross the Country In Style only available to newsletter subscribers? I'm looking forward to Oct. and your trip to Grand Rapids. Are you attending Novi this year? I'm new to this site but will be back. Tricia

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Is the booklet Cutting Accross the Country In Style only available to newsletter subscribers? I'm looking forward to Oct. and your trip to Grand Rapids. Are you attending Novi this year?

It is now ready for everyone and it is on the Booklet page. Webboy and I worked for about 5 hours trying to get the new items up on the 'What's New Page' last night...something with the server over the weekend got messed up or a new password was needed or the cat ate my homework plus any other excuse we could make up...but could still not get the new Booklet and 'Paper Dolls' up on the 'What's New Page'...maybe this weekend. But it can all be seen and ordered on the Booklet page

I will be in Novi this year. I just Signed up to teach at Eunice Farmenr's in St Louis The first week of  October.

Printing off orders like crazy...till later, Louise

[marciae]

I ordered first thing this am!  However, I didn't read my e-mail carefully so naturally couldn't get the "'word" to stay in the coupon place - but put it in the comments section - which, upon closer reading was the thing to do!!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I know anyone ordering today got the 'word' don't worry...I'll take care of everyone. later, L

[Terri K]

I've got to say that the "Cutting Across the Country in Style" booklet is the most comprehensive wardrobe planning and travel planning booklet I've seen.   Even DH who used to be gone every week either "across the pond" or across the continent said it was the best travel planner he'd read.   Inside she's got fantastic SWAP combinations and collections to try.    Packing, planning and security tips.   It's a must have IMHO.

[Terri K]

Sewing up my black denim w/ gold filigree cotton/spandex BPD jacket.    I'm using a size 70 microtex sharp needle and cotton thread.  I just don't like the way the needle is behaving on this fabric.   I top-stitiched the back sections and have stopped there because the seam is wavy on the front side.   I'm topstitching on the back side.   Any suggestions please.   I'll post photo of the fabric and work in progress later if you want to see what it looks like.    This isn't a heavy denim and it's not really stretchy either.   This is the one from Fabric Mart's website within the last year.

[DeniseM]

I can vouch for the booklet. I saw Terri's copy and now need to get my own. Very informative. I don't do a lot of traveling lately but hey, you don't have to be catching a plane/train/bus to dress like you are.

[template]

Hello Terri K. I know I am jumping in ahead of Louise , Louise recommends using quilting needles right now I am thinking 14 but it could be 11 for sewing. How much Lycra/spandex is the content in the fabric?, if it is pretty high trying a ball point needle would not hurt, I still would vote for the quilting needles. Hope I got that one right Louise. Bye for now. Jackie B>

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Terri, I have been seeing the ripple effect after sewing edgestitching and/or topstitching with the spandex in fabrics...it is not the thread or the needle (but you might even try a stretch needle) it seems to be the spandex that is stretching as it goes under the presser foot...it will stretch ever so slightly and then relax after it is stitched. Make sure you are not pulling front and back of the needle trying to help the fabric through. You might try the size 14 quilting needle also.  Another thing to try is to lighten the presser on the foot if you can on your machine, or use your walking foot, and lengthen your stitch (or even shorten it). Lots to try.

All-in-all Spandex can be a royal pain to sew...gee, only second to Slinky. The Cutting Across the Country in Style Booklet has a section on sewing with Slinky...because it is such a great travel fabric...and after you have sewn on it...you will need a vacation!!! I finally got to sew yesterday...and had to make a pair of One Seams in Slinky for the Fashion Show at the end of the month in Las Vegas...gee, and not even in my size...grrr

Keep us posted to what you did on (and to) your machine. later, Louise
later, Louise

[Terri K]

Thank you all for the helpful suggestions!    I'll try a stretch needle first and go from there.   I don't have any quilting needles.    I found the label for the fabric.   It says cotton 99 lycra 1 Denim Floral Grey.   It's actually a very dark grey.  I'll have to rip out my first topstitching row when I did the flat fell seam - aaaaargh but I did rent the first part of the HBO series to catch up.  Good for seam ripping.

addendum:  Results:  Don't have a stretch needle either but I tried a size 14 ball point and there was a measured difference in stitch and feel as I was stitching.   None of that waving and skimming going on.   I may go get some really dark charcoal grey thread because I don't like how the black looks.   Like anybody but me is going to notice - aren't we just to picky for our own good!

[Sergerqueen]

Terri K., in your post about topstitching your BPD jacket you said you were topstitching from the backside.  I believe Louise recommends topstitching from the front side.  I've always had better luck topstitching from the front.  HTH!

[MsSewCrazy]

Dear Louise or anyone else who knows the answer,
Having finally made my muslin of the Points and Pleats shirt I have run into a few problems/questions.     

1st --  I am making the size Medium but need about 3/4” more around the neck if I want to wear the collar buttoned.  I was thinking I could use the next size up (Size Large) collar and make the circumference around the neck on the body (or rather yoke) larger/deeper for the extra length.  I felt this would be a better way than trying to mess with all the front pattern pieces.  Any suggestions?

2nd--  At the Expos (and elsewhere) there were a couple shirts made up I loved. When I asked you (Louise) said they were the P & P pattern with two right fronts.  How are the directions changed from the regular P&P shirt?  Or what steps do I need to eliminate and what will I do differently?  I would love to make this with the two right fronts; it is such a great design on this body.      

3rd--  You write in the directions to clip the collar carefully and sparsely to avoid the neck edge growing when setting in the collar.  At the sewing machine, do you have the collar down towards the feed dogs or visa versa?  I am assuming the neck/shirt body is down?

I really love this top!     I did do a little shaping at the side seams and lengthened it about 2” since I am 5’9” and it ended a little short for this aging body.  Now I would like to perfect this pattern for lots of use.  I would love to sew it up using my aging stash of fabrics I purchased when your shop was open.  At the shop was this shirt made from several different Koos cottons in blues - sort of color/print blocked.  Loved it.  That is what I bought but I did not buy quite enough fabric.     I am very excited because I believe this shirt will work with some of the nicer, softer quilting-type cottons now available.

Nancy P


PS  Does anyone know how to punctuate this sentence correctly?  (cottons in blues - sort of color/print blocked.) I am not sure it is correct and would like to know how to fix it.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I was thinking I could use the next size up (Size Large) collar and make the circumference around the neck on the body (or rather yoke) larger/deeper for the extra length.  I felt this would be a better way than trying to mess with all the front pattern pieces.

Lay the front and back of the blouse out flat so the neck circumference is flush with the table.  To arrive with a bit more neck circumference, start at the front edge where the collar would terminate at one front of the blouse, with your tape measurer stand in end circle the neckline until you get to the opposite end of the neck edge (collar termination point) gently ease the circumference of the tape measurer out until you arrive at the neck circumference you desire. Chalk this new neck line and measure from the chalk line to 5/8" away to give your self a new seam allowance.

Keep me informed if (a) you understand what I just wrote (it's late) and (b) how it turned out. I have not heard that the neckline on the P&P was running small.

(2) Any pattern piece that says Right Front are not used. Just cut the Left Front twice as you would a standard blouse with right sides together. The short little section of the upper front facings would be connected to the back yoke facing. Any section in the instructions that talk about the right front facing, button placket etc. can be skipped over. The blouse is made like a conventional blouse with the front facings turned to the wrong side. The neck line has the collar sandwiched in between the the body of the garment and the front facing/back yoke. If you have the BPD jacket pattern, the instructions for the right front and left front would be the same. Same with the FTA top. Let me know if this helps...I'll go into more detail if you need it.

(3) The collar is up and the neck body is down. Take a pin 'pick'  exactly where the 5/8" stitching line will be stitched. The only place the collar and the body of the garment is supposed to match is at the 5/8" seam line. I have been teaching this method when I have been doing Sit and Sews around the country. I pin going across what will be the stitching line. Not putting the pin the same direction as the stitching line ( it will make the top garment piece slide forward as you pin. Pinning across the 5/8" seam allowance when get to the pin when sewing you will be able to pull the head out as the needle comes to that section of the seam.

(4) I still take the 'parti' colored shirt to sewing expos and guild shows when I talk about P&P and 2 left fronts in class. 'Parti Colored' (now know as colored blocked) is from the 16 century dressing. Every section of the costume was from a different fabric. At that time, no one had enough yardage (except the upper crust...another history reference I will go into later) so the common folk made their garments from many different fabrics.

Keep me posted how everything comes out.  till later, Louise

[MsSewCrazy]

I got kicked off while writing my post.  I took too long.     But yippie!!!     I just used my back button to find the post I worked on for an hour and can cut and paste it here!!!

Thanks for the response Louise.  What you wrote makes sense.  I do not believe P & P is too small but my neck is a little too big.     Actually I don't like anything snug around my neck.  Just a preference.

So you still have the blue-&-white-print-with-a-touch-of-black-blocked-P&P-top?  It is so cute!  I believe a Parti colored shirt would be a great way to make a coordinated wardrobe.    Happy dance.

I realized when looking at my notes I made on which fabric went where I wrote, "Use two left fronts."  So I will be making the Points without the Right Front pieces.  I have the BFD pattern but not the FTA top.  I will look at those directions.  And from my notes I was to use the blue print fabric for the Points back, right front and left sleeve.  However, for some reason I only bought 3/4 yd of this 44" wide fabric.  Whoops.

Thanks for more clarification on the collar.  I might ask more questions as I sew this up.  I'm not a beginner by a long shot but know I can always improve my sewing skills.  I recorded the latest America Sews when you were on. I believe you went over the collar on the show if not this specific one.  I am thankful for any garment sewing shows anymore and hate to criticize.  But, I wish they had skipped the "Quick Project" and just let you continue.      And I am still trying to get use to using my point turner "correctly".

I also have the recording of when you were on America Sews a few years ago.   I think you went over bias binding neck edge?  I learned a lot from that show. 

I made the Origami top.  The designer uses 6 squares of fabrics.  It makes a kind of raglan/dolman type sleeve. I thought this would be great for using the leftovers from the One-Seams.  To be honest, I would love to hear how you would improve the construction of this top.  I wasn't expecting to like it as much as I do.  So when I make this top again, I will probably ask which of your booklets would work with the Origami top.   I'm assuming I can use the SIH bias bound neck directions for the neck.  Maybe I can figure out how to transfer that neckline to the Origami top.  Emma just draws in a neckline on the show.  I am going to put a link here to the program on DIY.  They call it the "Magic Square Top"  It is in 4 parts so click on the link at the bottom to get to the next page of directions. 
  for the Orgami top
url]http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_clothing/article/0,2025,DIY_13751_2370462,00.html[/url]

Whoops didn't get the link tied to  .  Anyone know how to do that?  How do I link a phase or word to the url?  I clicked on the URL icon above but all it gave me was a place for the http address. 

[Lisa]

for the Orgami top
url]http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_clothing/article/0,2025,DIY_13751_2370462,00.html[/url]

Whoops didn't get the link tied to  .  Anyone know how to do that?  How do I link a phase or word to the url?  I clicked on the URL icon above but all it gave me was a place for the http address. 

Hi MsSewCrazy!
Yep, I do!     Your link would look like this:

The best place to practice is in the Sandbox so if you'd like to continue a discussion of "how to" please go there, give it a try, and leave even if it doesn't work, leave your attempt there, and ask for help!  We keep an eye out there for help requests! (I just happened to see this one... )

You're going to treat the smilie like a word that you want to be clickable.  You'll find instructions at Forum Decorum & Handbook (FAQ)--Making a Link .

Short version: 

1.  Choose the emoticon or word that you want to be "clickable", highlight it (on emoticons, make sure you get the ":" which are on either side of the text version of the emoticon), then click the third button from the left in the 2nd row above.  That will put url tags around the clickable word or emoticon.

2.  Put your cursor after the "[url" in front of your clickable word/emoticon, and go copy the web address or url of the site you want to link to and paste that address where your cursor is.

That's the short version.  You'll find a more detailed explanation in the instructions I linked to above.

Have fun!

Lisa

3. 

[marciae]

Received my books yesterday - cutting across, etc - and the "paper dolls".  The book has tons of information in it for travel.  Very nice to have it all in one place. Whether you use Louise's patterns or others - it's a great way to "SWAP" your packing.  The 'paper dolls' have the detail more visible (for me anyway) to evaluate the items.  Louise has lots of detail but doesn't make you feel like she's talking down to you. (NAYY)

[MsSewCrazy]

Thanks so much for the reply Lisa.  I'm glad you saw my post and guided me to the right place.  I looked for the "how-to" having seen them before, but I guess I was so tired last nite I couldn't find the directions.  I am busy reading and playing in the sandbox now.   

And one more question to Louise...

Do I use pattern piece 8 Buttonhole Band ?  Is this what you mean by "Any section in the instructions that talk about the right front facing, button placket etc. can be skipped over."    It does not say if it is right or left and although it says Band not Placket I'll assume it is not used.   I probably am making this harder than it needs to be.

I misplaced my BFD pattern.  I know I will find it.  I just had it in my hands yesterday.  Is there a smilies for the senior moment? or scratching the head?  Love those things.   

And I agree with MarciaE.  Louise's new booklet "Cutting Across the Country in Style" about travel and wardrobe planning is great.  Lots of wonderful information in it. Lots of lists, wardrobe ideas, airport suggestions and more. And although I have a different method of Paper Dolls, the booklet contains drawings of her patterns to play with.  As for the wardrobe suggestions, I am currently working on sewing the "Just a Natural" plan.  You can't get better information than from someone who travels all the time. 

Nancy P

[LOUISE CUTTING]

All you will need to make P&P the same on the left and right front is: Pattern piece 1, (cut twice) 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 (use this for your interfacing for the left and right front (cut 2), 11 (pocket).

Follow along  (when you find BPD) for the instructions on the jacket front with the cut on facings conecting them to the yoke at the shoulder seams. You will need to place your buttonholes for the P&P on the right front. Make sure the first placement is at your bust point after you have the blouse almost finished...try it on and put the first placement at that point and then work up and down from the bust point for the rest of the button palcement. 
later, Louise

[marciae]

Re - the pleats shirt - where would I make the FBA?  I know that sounds crazy - but the front is in two pieces.  I wear a medium and have a size D cup.  With the ABO I just made the front a bit longer and curved.  Just can't grasp where or how to do it on this particular pattern!

ETA - I'm 5ft 3

[Sewshopper]

Ok, I just had a delightful Sunday morning.  My DH brought in Lattes and I sat out in the sun room sipping it and reading the new 'Cutting Across The Country In Style' booklet (cover to cover) that came from Louise this week   I must say, there were many ideas that I can use, thank you, Louise.  It is a great time of year here as linens can soon be worn and I am going to try some of the combinations.  Winter tends to be mock turtle necks and jackets so this gets me going in a different direction.

Karleene

[Alice in Bama]

Hello ladies,
Whitch of Louis blouse pattern are you fav and why witch one cames close to a dress shrit type pattern No that I  am that  formal

Alice in Alabama

[sewingbeth]

So far, By Popular Demand is my favorite top pattern because that is the first and only one I have sewn.  It fits perfectly and is designed to look great when worn.  I am working my way through Louise's patterns and the record is stuck on the One Seams, meaning I have made them over and over in various lengths. 

Soon I am going to tackle more of the top patterns.  I don't have an answer to your question about the dress shirt comparision.

Happy Sewingbeth

[Terri K]

Alice, I guess it depends on what type of look you want and how loose or fitted you like a shirt to be.  I like the perky, crisp look of the Points and Pleats blouses  and that they are not loose fitted.  I also like the top that comes with the By Popular Demand, which is like an Armani design, I believe.    Most of the tops that I wear/make are knits that I wear under jackets.   I made the top that comes with her Anything but Ordinary in a knit, eliminating the facing and tab, although it's designed for wovens.   

[Alice in Bama]

Alice, I guess it depends on what type of look you want and how loose or fitted you like a shirt to be.  I like the perky, crisp look of the Points and Pleats blouses  and that they are not loose fitted.  I also like the top that comes with the By Popular Demand, which is like an Armani design, I believe.    Most of the tops that I wear/make are knits that I wear under jackets.   I made the top that comes with her Anything but Ordinary in a knit, eliminating the facing and tab, although it's designed for wovens.   

Thanks ladies i am to a beliver in one seam pants i am planing to cut out  4 pair in the morning then go from there on shirts and jacket i have both of the patter ya mention Getting ready for summer lookis like spring has come and gone here with highs in the 80 the last week or so going to be verry hot summmer

Alice

[cynthia]

I've spent the last couple of days reading and rereading Cutting Across the Country in Style, I love it!! I seldom travel but love all the ideas for wardrobing and plan to use them with my sewing. I have a couple of questions-what is tasmanian wool and where can you find it? Is it hot? I'm at the age where I need cool everything! Also when it suggests a color for pants, top, and skirt; are they all the same fabric or just the same color? I live 2 hours away from a JoAnn's so I have no access to nice fabric. I never find anything decent at JoAnn's. Thanks so much for the book Louise!
Cynthia

[sewingbeth]

Louise!   Please give  us some suggestions for quality fabrics good for high humidity, high heat on this hot  momma's size large body.  I am especially interested in fabrics you might have.   I know your quality and availability is excellent and you are just a UPS stop away! 

Are there any "new" upcoming colors?

I need suggestions for One Seams (making city shorts) and By Popular Demand.

LOVE YA and your  contribution to my love of garment sewing.

[stashpanache]

Help please?  I am recently back to sewing after decades away.  I see there is alot of positive comment about this One Seam Pants pattern.  Pants were always a problem fitting area for me. How many pattern pieces are there in this pant?  What am I not understanding?    Before I buy it, I just want to know that there are plenty of places for fitting and altering the pattern. TIA

Stash

[Doris W. in TN]

I live 2 hours away from a JoAnn's so I have no access to nice fabric. I never find anything decent at JoAnn's.
Cynthia

Have you ever bought fabric online?   I follow this board and PR, and consider the wisdom of the women who use certain reliable websites for fabric purchases.    Our JoAnn's can be very disappointing and our only independent fabric shop buys for their own personal color palette, which is not in sync with my own.   The internet is our friend, and lots of those vendors will swatch.     Louise might swatch for you as well.   Her colors & fabrics are great quality.

[Doris W. in TN]

Help please?  I am recently back to sewing after decades away.  I see there is alot of positive comment about this One Seam Pants pattern.  Pants were always a problem fitting area for me. How many pattern pieces are there in this pant?  What am I not understanding?    Before I buy it, I just want to know that there are plenty of places for fitting and altering the pattern. TIA

Stash

Stash - There is a separate thread of the One Seam Pants here at this link: http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,535.msg36542.html#new   I just made my first pair and will post my answer over there.

[Terri K]

Here's some NEWS!   Louise and Linda Lee are coming to western NC - Asheville for a sewing retreat sponsored by Waechter's Silk Shop the first week of November!   Joyce told me that she's working on the location and other details.    But I wanted to let you all know about this first so you can plan - maybe an early present to yourself. 

I wasn't able to go to the one they did in January in Florida but this one's in my back yard 

[kaaren]

That is good news for you on the East Coast;  but, Louise I want to know if  you are coming to the ASG conference in Sacramento this summer?  Naturally, I had to log on this am to the ASG site!  It did say the schedule would be up 4/1!  But I must have been over anxious.  Any news to share?  Hope you have time to say "yes" before this site goes down for a few days!  Anxiously,  Kaaren

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I had to take a break from the  drafting article for Threads...my mind is going back to college when the teacher would walk into the classroom with a ready-to-wear dress (always a tough draft) from a local boutique....and we would have to figure how it was drafted working on our 1/4 or 1/2 scale blocks....eek! And write out the step-by-steps by the end of the day's class.

a.  what do you mean this site is going down for a few days? I'm always behind the 8-ball! Please give details.

b. Yes, I am teaching at the ASG conference in CA with the day before hands on techniques class and then with in the core days. I ordered at market last week and the venders are holding the fabric to ship to the conference for me...at least some of it. So I will have 2 booths, fabric, patterns, booklets etc. I just have to figure out how to get about 2000lb of stuff across the country (and some of it back) without it eating up all the profits.

back to the drawing board...later Louise

[kaaren]

Oh, Louise you are too fast and too good.  Now to get a schedule for sign-ups!  Honestly, do you think that program sponsors understand that we need to plan?  Will you be doing classes at any of the other Northern California venues?  But I did get my reservations for the hotel, pricey but at the site!  I do not do well in heat.

I think that DL has posted the approximate times that the site will be down as she moves us to a different server.  We just have to sew while she works to make a save transfer.  And as always, she scares us with a several day down time and back we come before we knew what to do with the time.  But I think that those who are involved in SWAP see the unavailability as a real gift of time.  It is too easy to get lost for hours going from posts to blogs to swaps. 

Next goal:  ASG schedule.  Thanks for the fast response, I am so happy that you will be here.  Kaaren