Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements

[Terri K]

Hope web-boy has a wonderful wedding and comes back ready to post!

[QueenBee]

Hi Louise and all. I'll try this again....maybe I can hit post this time...

Louise , when you were here in January (Fresno), I tried on the Butterfly & Bees and we thought it would look good on me. I pulled out the pattern last night and plan on doing the reversible version. To me it just screams for one side to be a light weight, fluttery sheer. Probably a print, if that matters. So, how do you think I should go about stabilizing the neck? I've never done much with interfacings, and am trying to figure how to avoid ugly show thru. I've got a couple of ideas but no real clue. I thought maybe fusible silk organza with the idea that it would sort of vanish. Or getting overt & doing the wearable art, outside the box way and applying something to the outside of the face fabric for that side, possibly with an interesting edge treatment on the non neck edge of the stabilizer or doing a deconstructed effect. Maybe even ultrasuede or something. Remember, no clue....I could even get all Marcy Tilton on it, do some foiling onto the public side of the stabilizer and sandwich it under the fashion fabric. That would be really good if I went with silk organza for the jacket.

Shoulder pads won't be an issue. I've got squared shoulders and on raglan designs have to take them out.

Any suggestions you have Louise, or the rest of you, will be appreciated.

Rene Marie

[Terri K]

We were discussing the "reversibility" of some of Louise's patterns over on the SWAP Planning topic.   I thought the Heading for Adventure duster would be wonderful in two coordinating light fabrics,  sewn wrong sides together at the neckline and sleeve edges only, leaving the edges free like the Butterflies & Bees Jacket.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Well, finally I am getting back to the compute to see if I needed to answer questions....I spent all day yesterday getting boxes ready to be picked up for the Kansas City Sewing Expo next week. And filling fabric orders....when I give you great fabrics to choose form...you go crazy. More orders to fill today...but later, after a few more cups of coffee and I have voted.

I went over and read a bit about the SWAP. I rarely wonder from this page...hummmmm....there is some great things out there!

So QueenBee, are you planning on doing the 'B&B' in 2 layers from Organza? If so, you won't need any interfacing....The Organza is sturdy enough and in two layers...you will be just fine. To stabilize the neck, you can use the bias 3/8" fusible iron on tape...OR the neck edge pinned about every 1" to tissue paper, cut in exactly the same shape as the neckline. You will want to stitch through both the Organza and tissue at the same time. Stay-Stitch just inside along your seam line and about 1.5mm stitch length. Do this on both layers before you construct the garment.

As far as the double turned vertical fronts layers and hems...In the pattern I recommend Steam-A-Seam-2  that is 1/4" wide. On a sheer fabric like Organza the S-A-S will show through. But there is a new S-A-S Lite that is 3/16" wide and  is much better to use in sheer fabrics.

Amend..I think the 'Heading for Adventure' duster would be a great 2 layer duster. It is an oversize garment if you make it according to the measurments on the pattern envelope. The original that I saw was in this style, but if you make it a szie smaller, you will have a great looking tunic over slacks...and the double layer would be outstanding in this style! You would not need the neck facing at all.  If you didn't want the extra bottonhole tab down the vertical front opening...use the left side pattern piece for both left and right.  it is 'clean finished' along the vertical front edge. I always want to try to make the inside construction of garments as pretty as the outside.

I remeber my !other taking courses from the old Bishop Clothing and she would say 'You couldn't blast the garments apart." "You can wear this thing inside out!"...well, it must have stuck in my child brain...and I continue the process.

I am out of here until later, Louise

[QueenBee]

Thanks Louise. For this 1st jacket, just one of the two layers would be sheer, and may or may not be organza. Although, I do have organza on the brain lately

Rene Marie

[marciae]

   http://www.asiaticakc.com/clothing.html

Louise, check out the gold jacket - has the green top and pants under.  What do you think - the ABO without the collar and loops instead of buttonholes???

[LOUISE CUTTING]

You are so right!!! Not only that, but I wll be Asiatica on Monday...if I get to Kansas City early enough in the day...if not sometime on Tuesday....I love the store.It is tuely a fine, fine, store.... I know they are having a trunk show in St Louis next week so many of the garments will be gone...but I will report what I see.

If you all have a few minutes, play around on their website. True eye candy!

 Really, I have to work...and you make me stop and play!!!  Louise

[marciae]

Thanks Louise - I'll wait for your report.  Also the fabric they show looks awesome!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Last evening I attending a museum opening. That kind of thing is a great place to snoop shop! . The invite read black tie optional, so I knew there would be some better than normal ensembles. This type of opening produces a cross section of your city or town in what they think is appropriate.There were some beautiful dinner suits.

The color of the evening was black with a few shots of color on the younger women attending the function. Usually they were long ball gown style dresses...but most of the women 'of age' were in beautifully tailored suits.  I had just finished this week, ABO in black Tasmanian wool. I wanted to wear a beautiful pin so I kept the buttons simple. If I had fancy buttons they couldn't both have the attention...gee, 'real' pin...or fashion (faux) buttons...I went for the real pin. Had finished Black Tasmanian wool One Seams a while ago. Black shoes, hose and a wonderful lulu guiness evening bag.   http://www.bagshop.com/store/zpic1.php?ID=2080

As my snooping went on through the evening...one lady stood out...the color and fabrics were not right for the evening...but the style was perfect for the ABO and and ABO addition. She was in Eskandar from head to toe. The slacks were in a dark grey lt. weight wool, the blouse was ivory...I think it was silk amd jacket was in a camel color cashmere. The outfit was beautiful...but it was a day time outfit...plus I know the heat had to be getting to her.
But, what was striking was...the dk gray trousers were One-Seams-straight leg...the camel jacket was ABO with no buttons...so it looked like a soft wrap and the cream blouse was ABO, buttoned all the way up and was 2" longer than the jacket...for the layered look. It looked wonderful....in the daytime...I just looked in my Neiman Marcus catalogue of all the Eskandar garments. The jacket was $920, blouse $350, and pants $530. That is $1800.00 before you have shoes, handbag, jewelry! Aren't you glad you sew!!!

Well, lots to do today...'webboy's' wedding later today on a boat in another city, that I am sure to get lost going to...and I will try to figure out what to wear...because I have it at 3pm and as soon as the boat docks, I have to drive like a crazy person across town to another wedding, now an evening affair...I haven't been to a wedding in 5 years and now 2 in the same day...both of these children  grew up in my neighborhood and have stayed close.

So I am off...till later,Louise

[Lorraine K]

Ah Louise...

You're my kind of woman - I love these "snoop shopping" adventures.  You always keep us inspired!

Lorraine

[Terri K]

Louise, thank you for the descriptions of the outfits at the museum opening.    I'm back in Ft. Worth TX with my desperately ill father; taking a break from reality  .    I looked at the pieces of the Eskandar collection posted on the NM site.    I thought this Eskandar Scarf Collared jacket from Neiman Marcus looked a lot like the ABO, lengthened a bit and add the scarf.     If anyone gets a chance to check this one out in person, please let us know how the scarf is attached.  My guess is that it's just stitched around the neckline and hanging loose from there.   They have it in a wool plaid and then a fine wool solid. 

[marciae]

Louise - thanks for the 'snoop shoping' info.  Your outfit sounds stunning.  I want to make the ABO collar smaller - it it's way too high on my neck.  Given the pattern is in one piece - how do you suggest I accomplish this?  I've made 2 of the ABO's but I don't button the collar, in fact, on the second one I didn't even put on a button or buttonhole.  Thanks

[LOUISE CUTTING]

http://asiaticakc.com/clothing.html     We had fun today here...and yes the second jacket in from the left is quite like ABO, including the seam down the back and the little vent at the back hem...The front facing has been cut along the fold line and very narrow button loops have been placed in the seam line before stitched. The fabric is small circles made of 'paper' pressed into the silk and it is two layers. The fabric is NUNO...and is truely beautiful.  Leave the collar off and make a back facing connecting to the front facing and you have it.

As far as the collar goes...to make it shorter...there is seam long the top so you can just sew a deeper seam. The collar is the same length
it is just shorter from top to bottom. Just make narrower and make sure you are removing the excess you don't knee from the TOP seam.

Well, I got to Kansas City at 10am from Florida this morning...so you all can guess what time I got up...so I have hit the wall and am going
to make sure the bed is not going to move now.... till later, Louise

[marciae]

Thanks Louise - have a great trip.  I "thought" about taking off the top for the collar, but wasn't sure!   However, I think I'm going to try the collarless, loop closing first! 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

This is the first moment I hae been able to come up for air. I returned home from the Kansas City show with a ton of fabric to cut for the ladies there and get it ready to ship, plus all the orders from there and the ones from the internet. Since then, I have been back at the computer on the new book.

I had a wonderful breakfast with Linda Lee Sunday morning after the show in Lawrence, Kansas...really cool town...great fabric store there! We talked about the details of the retreat in January...we are planning on having others around the country...sorry, don't know where or when....but in '07 for sure. Always make sure you are signed up for my newsletter...that is where the details will broadcast.

With Kansas City in Linda's back yard, I had e-mailed her about shopping beforehand...granted asiatica was a must...but I also enjoyed the 'Crossroads' district. Many city blocks downtown that are just starting to have small boutiques moving back in. I have not had a second to make notes or draw one minute pictures of some of the design details. As I remember them I will post here.

I think my next sewing project will be ABO, made 'topper' length and without the collar. Next weekend is the Jacksonville Antique Show...(big$$$) but great for eye candy and lunch.....especially the 'ladies that lunch' All the Chanel's (head to toe) will be struttin' and then the next day head to Sarasota for the American Craft Council show. Now that is real eye candy for me! I look forward to this show all year. Check out the links.

http://82.165.243.105/sarasota2006/genre.php?id=2    for wearable art
http://82.165.243.105/sarasota2006/genre.php?id=5    for jewelry
http://82.165.243.105/sarasota2006/genre.php?id=3  for fiber
http://82.165.243.105/sarasota2006/genre.php?id=6   for leather
http://www.craftcouncil.org/   show schedule for around the country

Let me know what you think...for me, when I see something I like...my printer starts to work...usually the pages can't come out fast enough. Well, back to work...well maybe in a few minutes...now that I found the links for you...I might have to peak for a few minutes...or hours! till later, Louise

[rebells]

WOW!  I wish we had something like that in Minneapolis.  So inspiring!

[Terri K]

Glad you had a productive show Louise.  Thanks for sharing the links.   I was just re-reading your "Master Class" article in Threads #121 about the bias edge techniques.   I was thinking of adding the bias knit edge to the ABO  top neckline.    I also was thinking "topper" length for an ABO as well.    How do you recommend extending the length of the ABO?    Here is the By Popular Demand as a topper that I photographed when Louise brought her trunk show to Waechter's in Asheville.

[hilda]

As my snooping went on through the evening...one lady stood out...the color and fabrics were not right for the evening...but the style was perfect for the ABO and and ABO addition

Louise - what is the ABO addition?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

what is the ABO addition


what was striking was...the dk gray trousers were One-Seams-straight leg...the camel jacket was ABO with no buttons...so it looked like a soft wrap and the cream blouse was ABO, buttoned all the way up and was 2" longer than the jacket...for the layered look....

Sorry...I didn't make my self clear... the jacket with out the buttons, and the ABO addition was the blouse the same style but 2" longer for the layered look.

Terri, I am still knee deep in the book (now about 16 hours a day) and will take time to answer you proportion question tomorrow.  thank you for posting the BPD topper jacket.   

till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

How do you recommend extending the length of the ABO?

To get the proper portion for a topper...it all depends on your height.

1. measure yourself from your shoulder to your waist over your bust point...by the way, when you do that measurement, make a note how far down your bust point is from your shoulder. The tape measurer should be placed right where your neckline and shoulder seam would meet.  At your bust point is where your FIRST button is placed on your garment (any garment should have a button here).

2. Think of your pattern front as if it was 'you'...and put your tape measurer in the same spot at the nexkline/shoulder seam (at the stitching line, not the cutting line)...make a note on the pattern where YOUR waist is. About 100% of the time it is not where the pattern has marked the waist line. Forget the pattern waist line altogether.

3. Measure yourself from your waist to the floor. Divide this measurement into fifths. The FIRST fifth is great for blouses, jackets, vests, any top that needs to cover a bit of 'stuff' but, the SECOND fifth is YOUR topper length for your height and proportion. Example: YOU measure 40" from your waist to the floor. Divided 40" by 5 and you will get 8" ...so, 8" down from your waist is good for blouses, jackets, etc. and 16" would be YOUR topper length. This is now measured on YOUR PATTERN from the mark YOU drew for your waist line, down 16" onto paper (I like 1/4" graph paper for the paper to use to lengthen).  Yes, it is heavier than your tissue paper, but the 1/4" squares will give you the length you need quickly, 4 squares is 1" and one of the graph paper's vertical lines can be used to continue the grain line or center front/cutting lines. Get the 11" x 17" tablet at your office stores. I use it anywhere I need to add...takes the guess work out and is done in a snap. 

4. Take it one step further ...the 4th measurement is your DUSTER length. So 32" down from the waist marking on your pattern should be the finished hem of your duster (if my math is correct after only 1 cup of coffee...and Twinkie helping me type).

OK, back to the book and another 16 hour day (and Twinkie is sleeping now...granted, 2" away and on the reading matter I need, but I'm off...till later, L

[Betty F]

Thank you so much for this simple method of finding attractive proportions. Forever I will now have a reference point! 

I wonder if there are any other such "pleasing" proportions  that would help in planning a wardrobe.  I remember back in the late 50's my junior high Home Ec teacher told us that the bodice:skirt ratio in a dress should be 2:3 -- or at least that's how I remember it.  For a long skirt the ratio would be different, but back then young teenagers did not wear long skirts.

[Terri K]

I used Louise's proportion ratios and - as it happens, my waist to floor measure is 40".    So I would be extending the ABO a total of 12 inches for a finished length of about 34.5".   I diagrammed these proportions on an abstract figure drawing to hang in sewing room.  The third measurement - 24" is a nice skirt length for me.   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear Betty F...yes, the longer skirts are different. Because they are the same proportions as Capris and crop pants...I'll answer them in the One-Seam Pant chat area later today...off to an Antique Show in Jacksonville in a few minutes.


Anyway...to get you started this morning...here is another proportion....I can see everyone taking out their tape measurer now ...measure from your hair line down through the middle of your face to your chin (first chin) ...from shoulder bone across your front to shoulder bone should be twice that measurement... 8" high should be 16" wide...Way to many years teaching life drawing class in College. Your whole body is based on balance with another part of the body.

till later, Louise

[QueenBee]

 Louise told us in January when she was here for a class a cool way of combining garments. Some one asked how to decide what tops to put with which bottoms. Without checking my notes, Louise said big over small, or small over big, or small over small. But never big over big; you just look big.

Still makes me laugh!

Rene Marie

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have been in a major clean-up mode for the past 4 days, including getting the 7 boxes returning from Kansas City open and the clothes hung up and product back on the shelves. I made a killing at Target last weekend, I had been looking on the internet for plastic boxes with the snap lids and then in the Sunday paper there they were on sale...major sale. Sandy(my assistant at the shows this past year) and I went down (I have a toy car and she has an SUV)....I felt sorry for the young guy that answered our call to help with the number of boxes..."How many do you want?" 72! and then I had to go back for 15 more yestedrday! When a new pattern is ordered (or reorder) the standing number is 1000 patterns (expect for One Seams...then it is 2000)...well they comes in 30" long 40lb. cardboard boxes with about 100 patterns per box.They can only be stacked so high and so they start to spread out wider and wider. I calculated how big of a box I would need and how many (OK, so I was a little off with having to get 15 more), but as of last night everything is now in a great boxes stacked 7 high...I can see how many patterns I have of any design and when I get to the last box I need to reorder.

Well, don't let me stand and move patterns without my mind working overtime (or in some cases, at all) I figured I needed a blog on my site. So Web-boy was called and a 'bloging' he did yesterday. I will post goodies( and quickie sales...maybe 1 to 3 days only) there so come often...now, I only have to remeber what he taught me so I can get it up right correctly I fear he will be getting a call if I don't post soon. http://www.fabriccollections.com/whatsnew/whatsnew.html

Well, I am off to break down 85 empty boxes for the garbage pick up tomorrow. My back driveway looks like I just moved in!

If I am really a good girl, and get everything done today...I might be able to sew for the next 4 days...that sure hasn't happened in a long time. Only 1 more trip next week to film with Sue Hausmann for America Sews. I will search for my long silk undies. Cleveland will have a high at 19...hmmm till later, Louise   

[Terri K]

Louise, I have one more question about making the ABO jacket out of heavier fabrics - thank you for the previous post about the collar seam allowances.   This time of year I'm doing heavier fabric jackets to include some novelty fabrics and a tapestry upholstery that doesn't like to be folded and pressed -  very much like the same type of fabric you used for your BPD topper!   I really appreciate the cut-on facing that is "right-on" for heavier fabrics.    It's a fast and easy jacket.  So, maybe this is a duh question but I don't want to mess up and end up with a wadder!

The ABO pattern has an allowance for a 7/8" hem, using the tagboard type template to press up 3/8" and then another 1/2" fold before stitching.   This is too much turning and folding for my heavy fabric and I would prefer a wider hem.   What I was going to do is just serge, press up and steam a steam, then top-stitch.    Any other suggestions for a nice hem would be greatly appreciated.  I checked the Eskandar coats that I have and they have serge finished seams, aren't lined but the hems are done the way your instructions for the ABO hems is done and topstitched.   
Thanks so much!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

You are doing the right thing...if the fabric is too heavy, just serge with raw hem along the bottom of the jacket and the sleeve hems. Press on the fold lines, S-A-S and top stitch. You can also think about top stitching and edgestitching, this is great if the fabric doesn't what to press all that well. The deeper hems will weigh the garment down...a needed thing with tapestry and the like. Post the pictures Terri so we can see.

If I get all my 'homework done'...retreat stuff, bills, orders, etc. I want to make an 'ABO' out of a great Japanese linen border print to wear next week when I film another America Sews...granted it is in Cleveland and 19 degrees, but by the time it airs, it will be spring. I think I will change after I get to the studio. 

Check the blog out later today...if I can do it correctly (without calling webboy) there will be a goodie up. till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

My first real blog is up...but not until I called webboy to have him remind me of the very first thing I had to do ...after all it was 2 whole days ago! that he helped me get it started......what is a girl supposed to remember!!!

I'm going to have to keep doing it until it becomes second nature.

Well, I have been trying to get to the sewing room all day...but first I had to get all the 'stuff' that I kept putting on the cutting table for the past two weeks back in place. New fabrics purchased, teaching samples from Kansas City, the next Nantucket Bucket pruse pieces and parts, cat!

I just received e-mails from both the ASG Conference 2007 and Puyallup 2007, I have been accepted to teach at both.  A whole new class in Puyallup (the one I have been working on the new booklet)...so now I really have to get it done!   

Well, take a look and have fun at the blog. http://www.fabriccollections.com/whatsnew/whatsnew.html

till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Whow!!! fell to the bottom of page one! I arrived back yesterday from South Florida and said I would report on whats new in the land of perpetual sun. Was in NM...Saks...in Boca...both stores are very high end...they have recently moved Saks up a few notches in $$$ and the mid price range is no longer in the store in any department. 

I'm sure most of the garments are in for the cruise season...but YSL was mostly in white...tailored jackets and slacks (straight leg), Armani had beautiful jackets in navy and navy and matte silver (lt. grey)...slacks in straight leg. 'Toppers' (longer jackets)  from Burberry in bright prints...not the usual Burberry plaid. Ellen Tracy had shorter tailored jackets and shorter box jackets. The slacks from Ellen Tracy were also straight leg, but were the classic trouser pant...with pleats and an 1 1/2" cuff.

The one thing that every designer or manufacturer had in common was much larger than we have been used to seeing...buttons...at least 1" to 1 1/4" on the jackets. Most were tone on tone...buttons matched the color  (or blended) of the jackets. Except for Burberry...they were shiny gold.

Some thing should be thought of with care...cuffs on pants...comes and goes quickly...and can make even tall people shorter....and short people really short....reason...too many horizontal lines close to the floor....bottom of the shoe, bottom of the pant, top of the cuff, all of these horizontal lines are in about 3". Also, make sure the button size is in proportion to the garment and to you.

outta' here...later, Louise   

[Karla]

classic trouser pant...with pleats and an 1 1/2" cuff.

   OMG        The Pillsbury Doughboy stunt double cannot wear pleats and cuffs.      She will look better in polyester pull-on pants.   

[marciae]

Cruise - sun - we're snowed in - State is pretty much shut down.  Should be a perfect sewing day!  I received my shoulder pads from Louise - if any of you wear shoulder pads check out her web site (NAYY).

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I hope you are all having a wonderful Christmas morning. After the last piece of tissue paper falls to the floor...what has been the best Christmas present you received this year...or in other years?

I must say, my socks were blown off just a bit ago...when I opened an huge box that was overnighted from NYC. My best friend's daughter and son-in-law were visiting the city for a few days last week and according to the note the husband found the present. A fashion illustration by Madame Gres from her Spring 1956 collection. The illustration is in ink and blue/gray wash of a scoop neck, cut on short sleeve dress tapering to the waist. It has a bouffant skirt stopping at mid calf. There is a smaller illustration showing a square back with two diamond cut outs each caught with a large bow. It is already hanging in my office. 

I hope you have a beautiful rest of the day and through out the New Year.

till later, Louise 

[Terri K]

Louise and all, here's an example of the ABO lengthened:  Achkan style long jacket by Eskandar .    The line drawings from the Eskandar catalogs show that this Indian inspired "Achkan" style is basically the same shape and has the dropped sleeves just like the ABO.    If you search eBay with Eskandar Achkan, you'll see many of these.

Eskandar does this jacket frequently in hip length through full length.  Per your proportion guidlines, I don't know why they call 42" long a 3/4 length    3/4 length is 34" for me.  Full length is typically 52" in Eskandar. 

Time to get out your patterns and make a $1,000 plus retail garment fast!

[Karla]

A fashion illustration by Madame Gres from her Spring 1956 collection.

  What a great find - and they knew exactly who would love it.

what has been the best Christmas present you received this year...or in other years?

My two favorite gifts: plans for a NYC trip in the Spring with my mother and sister (Christmas shopping is so much easier since we started that tradition) and - ta-da! -  a blindstitch machine for the woman who has everything except a love of handsewing.  Actually, I think my darling had ulterior motives and wants several pairs of pants hemmed.  No matter.  I'm delighted to get this new toy.

[Lisa Laree]

Time to get out your patterns and make a $1,000 plus retail garment fast!

Um, anyone have a source for the 50% cashmere/50% silk fabric? 

I got a copy of the 4th edition of Armstrong's pattern drafting book...THAT should keep me sufficiently overwhelmed for a while.  Oh, and DH has one more gift to give me that still hasn't materialized...I'm suspecting a gate-leg cutting/craft table, but I could be wrong.  He went just a bit ago to fetch something 'from storage' (we no longer have a storage unit...I think he means his buddy's garage)...so I should know soon what he's been sneaking about  about