Dipping my toes into Burda

[Violet Peacock]

Hello

I haven't made anything from Burda yet, which is silly, as I love their stuff. I have been getting the magazine for over almost year now, and need to justify getting it for a further year by actually making something.

I think making something easy with quick results will help ease me into the Burda way of life, but Im not sure what. I dont want to have to make 100's of alterations and this will just intimidate me.

In the current issue, I like Skirt 116A.



Is there anything else I need to know before I embark on this journey?

I guess the first thing I need to do is copy the pattern, any tips and hints on how best to do this?

I'm going to scouring the forum some more to see what others have written about Burda..

[BeeBee]

I have found that BWOF is very true to size, so if you measure a 42, make a 42 (for instance).
When I trace, first I take a Sharpie in whatever color the pattern is (red/blue/green/black) and trace the size and all markings on my magazine sheet.  Then, when I lay my tracing paper over it, it's very clear which lines to trace.  It looks complex, but if you focus on one color it really isn't so bad.  Tape (don't pin) your magazine sheet and tracing paper to your surface. I also use a ruler and a french curve on both steps of my tracing - it gives a cleaner line (if you pin, the curve and ruler will "hang up" on the pins, that's why I tape). Be sure there's nothing under your paper - Sharpie's bleed.
Keep the magazine with you while you trace - it will help you make sure you get all the markings and all the "extra" pieces you need that BWOF doesn't give you pieces for (in your example, the "belt" would be a likely choice for this). 
Other than that, just make a skirt.  You know how.  Don't fret over Burda directions, they're cryptic to say the least. 

[RuthieK]

My tips

1   be realistic about your size and don't fib. This is not Simplicity - they mean it!
2   add hems and seam allowances on to everything. They are NOT included.
3   sew with a good sewing book or instructions from a similar envelope pattern alongside.
4   label all the pieces with the size, issue and pattern no because they can get jumbled once you have traced a few.

Have fun though there are loads of kewl designs in Burda.

P.S The sloper for the plus is slightly different to the standard which is slightly different again to the Petite. So just remember which sort it is when tracing especailly if you are close to one of the overlap sizes.

[Violet Peacock]

Thanks both, good tips BeeBee

Ruthie, everything you say makes sense except the ps..do I need to do a Burda sloper? Is there such a thing?

[vtmartha]

There is another thread discussing BWOF patterns where we determined that there is no Burda fitting pattern.  They suggest using a simple blouse and skirt.  Ruthie's tips are all good ones; however, there are occasional rectangular pieces where the seam allowances are included - they are described as such.  I like that skirt.  Have fun!

[RuthieK]

Oh maybe I used the wrong term sorry.

What I meant is that the underlying block used by Burda to draft regular, petite and plus are all a little different even in what appears to be the same size. But I gather you can't buy the sloper pattern like you can with some pattern companies.

[kitnrose]

I've only made one burda pattern and it was an adventure, but a good one.  It was very true to size, a welcomed if rather jarring shift from the Big4 - I'd rather gotten to like sewing a little smaller than recommended.  Pure vanity.    The tracing wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and the pieces went together like a dream.  Especially helpful since my Burda was in German and babblefish is NO help with sewing instructions!  I was pleased with the experience and would do it again in a heartbeat, though it was daunting at first.  And I tried to be clever and add 1/2" seamlines but forgot when I went to sew and went with my standard 5/8".  Oops.  So don't repeat my mistake there.    Next time I'll put a sticky note on my machine or just start with 5/8". 

The skirt you picked is fantastic, can't wait to see it made up!

[Violet Peacock]

Ahh, thanks for clarifying RuthieK

Will have a go at tracing the pattern this evening. I want to get good at using this style of pattern as I have a copy of Knipmode , the issue with the cool rouched skirt (april08 i think) and thats in Dutch..lol

[Diane Egelston]

What a pretty skirt! Everyone has given you great advice. Here's one more thought: trace your pattern and cut it out in a sacrificial fabric with similar character to your desired fashion fabric. This way you'll be able to jump right into the project without fretting over the possible destruction of precious yardage. You'll get a sense of how the Burda skirts fit and you'll be free to have some fun.

Please let us know how your project turns out! I predict you'll be hooked.

[bernolf]

I tried 3 patterns from Burda, and its all good, one advice, as all patterns are, it is designed for a specific body type and not all body type are the same so measure... measure your curves. Burda is fun!!! Now i wouldn't mind having Vogue patterns..if only i could get a  UK..subscription..

[ejvc]

There are probably many ways to do this, so let me give you mine - I make loads of Burda and Ottobre patterns.  I don't go over the pattern lines with a marker, and I don't pin or tape to my surface, I just lay out the paper on top of the pattern and lean on it.  I don't use a french curve or a ruler, I just trace with a pencil.  I periodically check that all the corners and lines are matched in case I've moved the paper, but it rarely happens.    I keep the magazine handy because the small drawings show all the marks, so before I move the paper I just check once again that I've got all the notches, roll lines, fold lines, placement lines etc.  I cut out the paper without adding seam allowances.  I label all the pattern pieces with issue, pattern number, piece number, size, piece title ("back"), and "cut 2" or "cut 1 on fold" or "cut 2 contrast, 2 interfacing" etc.  Helps me check.  Then I lay out on fabric and either eyeball the seam allowances (if cutting with scissors) or use my new handy-dandy rotary cutter guide arm.  I mark the seamlines on the pattern as well as the other marks.  I put all the pattern pieces in a sandwich-sized ziplock, and when I've finished the pattern I print a picture of the garment and pop it in the ziploc as well.

OK -- second tip -- READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.  Especially the cutting instructions.  Especially the ones where they suggest seam allowances; and especially the seam allowances for hems and facings.  They may tell you to omit a seam allowance, or to put on a 4cm hem allowance, or whatever -- you should do this because their finishing techniques often depend on having the right allowance.    Also the pattern pieces labelled "a" "b" "c" on the layouts will just be rectangles, and they will either say "finished size" or not -- if not, you need to add seam allowances.  Ann Rowley makes paper patterns for these pieces and I sometimes do as well.

I always follow the printed instructions and I don't find them particularly confusing.  But if you do, you can just wing it -- it's a skirt, and as BeeBee says, you know how to make a skirt, right?

Elizabeth

[Elaray]

BWOF instructions take some getting used to.  Every issue has one pattern with illustrated instructions - perfect for BWOF newbies.    Look back through your issues and see if you like any of the patterns with illustrated instructions.  That's a good place to start.

[Threads]

Just an odd point about tracing.  I find that my hand is a lot steadier going away from my body than it is moving toward my body.  (Not sure why).  Anyway, I tend to draw a solid line moving away, but if I have to trace in the less steady direction I do it as a dashed line, then connect.  It seems to make a better line that way.

Also, Fabric.com sends out these little ruler thingies that have pieces sticking out in different widths (1/4", 5/8", etc.)  If you are not too fanatical about the seam allowances it's easy to use the little thingie to mark the desired seam allowance on paper or with chalk on the fabric.

My eye is pretty good on 1/4" seams, but I tend to be off with wider seams so I like to check the distance every few inches to make sure it isn't veering away from being true.

[vtmartha]

I also find that if I rest my hand on a plastic ruler and slide it along while tracing, it is much smoother.  Keeping my hand in a steady position and moving my arm seems to work better for me than negotiating the curves by 'twiddling' my fingers.  I, too, find that moving my hand away from my body is more successful and do the 'dash' thing when coming towards me.

[Bonnie]

Most measuring tapes are 5/8" wide.
If I need seam allowances that width I use my tape, I find it handy that I can bend it.
Hope all these tips help.