Truly Invisible Zippers

[Janis]

What did I do wrong here?  I followed a tutorial from El of Sewing Divas.  She sews the seam below the zipper opening first.  Then bastes and presses the zipper opening in order to have a guide.  Then she removes the basting and pin-bastes and then machine sews the left side of the zipper first, then does the same with the right side.  I didn't use the plastic zipper foot, just the regular zipper foot for my machine, since that's what El does.

Anyway, this doesn't look right.  What did I do?



Janis

 

[BetsyV]

Janis

it looks like you just didn't get close enough to the coils. You have to be nearly on top of them to get that "invisible" effect. Were you sure to press the coils open, away from the tape, so the tape is completely rolled out? Hard to describe ...

I haven't tried Els' method; I have had good results with the instructions included in the zipper (coats' brand). BUT I always use a longer zipper than called for then cut it off at the bottom so I don't get a nasty pucker. And I don't sew the seam it's going into first. I DO use an invisible zipper foot, even though I can't seem to get the groove in the bottom exactly on top of the coil. I just make sure to stitch as close as I can get to the coil. And I always baste with thread. Pinning distorts the zipper tape IMHO.

[MsFunk]

I also use the instructions included with the zipper, and the plastic foot by Coats.  Since it's always worked for me I don't want to mess with the system.  The instructions say to apply the zipper before the rest of the seam, so I do.  I then hand sew the seam right below the zipper because it can be difficult to get the foot in the right place, and sew the seam by machine starting about 1"-2" below the end of the zipper.  Also, tacking hanging part of the zipper tape makes it easier to pull the zipper once the garment is finished.

[Janis]

Were you sure to press the coils open, away from the tape, so the tape is completely rolled out? Hard to describe ...

Okay, I think this may be my problem.  El said to press the tape, but I didn't really know why.  I thought it was to make the tape lay flat.  I can see that I probably needed to press toward the coils to make the tape widen out from the coils.

Also, I need to baste first.  I think that's why I got the puckering.

Thanks, Betsy.

Ms. Funk,

I guess I need to use the plastic foot.  The reason El gives for sewing the seam first is because of the little bubble that you sometimes get at the bottom of the zipper.  She does what Betsy does by using and extra long zip and then cutting it.  I'll have to play around with this.  Thanks.

[BeeBee]

I do close my seam first, then baste where the zipper's going ( .  I steamaseam or baste in the zipper, open the basting seam, sew from top to bottom using (the best thing since sliced bread) my pintucking foot and adjustable needle position (though I've had excellent luck with the Singer slidey foot, too).  I also use a longer zipper and leave a tail at the bottom and slide the top up so I don't need a hook/eye to close.   I iron the teeth, but then have to zip it closed so I loose some of the ironning benefit, though not all of it.  Sew slowly.  And added advantage to the pintuck foot is the short toe, so i can get in closer to the bottom of the seam.  I'm usually left with a few (like 10 or so) hand stitches, but they look really good. 
I agree, your's just looks like you didn't get close enough to the coils.  I'd just try again, if it was me (and it has been  )

[Janis]

BeeBee,

I'm just wondering how I'm going to get closer to the coils.  I think I'm going to have to use the plastic zipper foot, because I've got my zipper foot right up to the edge of the coil.  Do you think I need to put the foot on top of the coil?  I'm thinkin' that's not going to work

Janis

[BeeBee]

Yeah, if your zipper foot won't let you get close enough (the one that came with my Pfaff wouldn't work well) you'll need to get a different foot.  I use my pin tuck foot - LOVE it for that.  It has yet to tuck a pin, but it puts in a mean zipper.  And on my old Singer I use the one that attaches and you can slide the foot to the left or right. It isn't a "hard" slot, but completely adjustable.  I put the needle down and then slide the foot, then place the fabric.  Works much better than I thought it would.  I have a couple packs of the plastic feet, but have never used them.  I couldn't figure out how to put them on.  

[AnnRowley]

...the one that came with my Pfaff wouldn't work well

BeeBee - Pfaff make an invisible zipper foot.  It has proved to have been one of my absolute Best-buys.

The needle stays in the centre position whichever side of the zip you are stitching and gets really close to the coil.   Until I started using this I wasn't at all happy with the result I got from using other feet.
It's a bit of an investment    but worth every penny.

[ejvc]

Helpful topic, thank you.

Elizabeth

[kayyy]

I put in an invisible zipper last night - pressed the coils flat, then without thinking snapped on my standard Pfaff zipper foot instead of screwing on the plastic purpose-built invisible zipper foot.  It worked really well!  The trick is to move your needle closer to the edge of the foot so the line of stitching is as close as possible to that edge, which in turn is as close as possible to the zipper coil.  I didn't sew the seam below the zip opening until after the zip was installed. 

Kay

[LauraS.]

Janis, I have used Els inv zipper application for quite a while now and have beautiful zippers.  I use my regular zipper foot also.  Do press the zipper open.  Also, stablize the area at the seam with lightweight interfacing.  What I do that appears to be different is that when I am ready to sew the zipper down, I move the needle left/right so that it is just outside of the teeth.  I slowly sew down the length of zipper.  I also use a zipper that is longer than needed. Depending on the fabric will baste.  I prefer sewing an invisible zipper to lapped or center.

laura

[Janis]

Thanks so much to all of you for your replies.  I probably could have figured out how to sew the invisible zipper with my regular zipper foot, but after I heard Ann talk about using an invisible zipper foot made for her machine I decided to see if Bernina makes an invisible zipper foot.  Low and behold, they do, and here it is:


I haven't used it yet, but I can tell just by looking at it that it will get very close to the coil.  I'm excited to try it (but I have to rip out first )

Janis

[Janis]

Here it is after using my new invisible zipper foot.  I couldn't get a longer zipper because the pattern called for a 22 inch zipper and that was the longest I could find, so I had to hand stitch at the base of the zipper.  I can see why an extra long zipper would work perfectly.  It's not the zipper of my dreams, but it's not bad considering it's my first zipper in many, many years.  Thanks again for the help.  I really do appreciate it

[BeeBee]

Much betterer, Janis.  It's amazing the difference the right foot makes.  I just buy inviz zips in long always, unless they're on sale, then I buy whatever.  Then I just cut off and use what I want. 
I have a lot of sewing issues  but invisible zippers aren't one of them.  My first one, a year ago was painful.  I took it out about 10 times (I think, I lost count after I started drinking  ) and I had to phone a friend (thanks, karent), but I'm a whiz at it now!  And my fly fronts aren't bad, either (that thanks to my new BFF - Sandra Betzina, but I don't think she know this  )   I don't know how to do a regular zipper - though I could probably figure it out  - or a lapped zipper.

[lessalt]

Janis, That zipper looks great. I bought the Bernina zipper foot at Puyallup on the recommendation of my sewing friend who said it made all the difference. It's a little pricey but well worth it to be able to put in those invisible zippers and have it look so perfect.

[Janis]

Thanks BeeBee,

I have discovered that sewing is kinda like golfing, very frustrating, lol.  Anyway, I bet you are talking about BFF's video that shows how to put in a fly zipper on Threads.  I plan to use that video if I ever get past the muslin stage of pants making .



Lessalt,

I LOVE the invisible zipper foot.  It really makes it easy to put the zipper in.  Enjoy!

Janis

[Patti B]

Janis, I'm so glad you bought the Bernina foot -- it's terrific (and I'm sure the Pfaff, etc. are too). The nice thing about invisible zippers is that, if the stitching isn't close enough, just stitch another line closer to the teeth. Very forgiving!

[movinon]

This came up on another forum... I thought there was an invisible foot for the Pfaff.... but I'm not sure. I'll have to ck. that out.

I know many use the pintuck feet to install invisible zippers. I'll have to try that. I have been using the zipper foot for my machine and and adjusting needle position since I've owned Pfaffs and I have to say I have never gotten an invisible zipper as invisible as when I used those old brightly colored feet from the 70s that came in a package (maybe four or five to fit different types of machines) on my old Singer 99k. I'm not sure that it's the foot per say because I can get the needle so precisely close to the zipper teeth that I cannot even zip the zipper - I think that problem is actually because, though I press the zipper first to try and press teeth aside, I'm not getting them pressed "out of the way" enough - I'm afraid to be too aggressive for fear of melting the nylon teeth.  Think this is the problem?  I pulled out my wedding dress made 25 yrs. ago on that old Singer and that invisible zipper is PERFECTLY invisible - I'd even stitched double rows of loop tape (had the elastic loops for button closures, I had 40+ buttons down the back and each was individually fastened over the seam line).  I don't even remember knowing to press the teeth out of the way back then.

I'd be interested to hear what others are doing, especially on Pfaffs. Love the machine but like Bernina's zipper feet and some others much better.  When I put in the last one I used an awl while stitching to keep pushing teeth out of the way, it's ok and the fabric is so heavily textured that you don't see it's not perfectly invisible, but I really would like for them to be perfect.

[Katherine]

If you are having to use a awl to push the teeth out of the way, part of  your problem may be not pressing enough.  I really steam it flat.  I've never melted one, but I have a gravity feed iron with a teflon shoe on it.

Are you using interfacing on the zipper area?  I fuse a strip of interfacing 1/8" wider than the seam allowance to the zipper area seam allowances.  If I forget to do that the zipper shows.  The other thing is not to press over the area when you're finished.  The fabric needs to be able to roll to cover the zipper.

Katherine

[BeeBee]

I've never melted one and I iron the heck out of them.  I use my Pintuck foot because (a) I don't have an Inv zip foot for my machine (b) the shorter toe makes it easier to get closer to the pull, reducing or even eliminating that pesky hand stitching. 
The regular zipper foot just doesn't allow you to get close enough, without the groove for the teeth, the foot pushes the zipper away just enough to ruin the look (in my experience), even when I baste or Steam-a-seam it (my usual preference).  It works fine for lapped or fly zips.  I ordered an Inv foot for my new machine but it's on back order, so I'm still using my Pintuck foot. 
Some of my sewing skills are sorely lacking, but I'm'a whiz at invisible zippers.  (and fly fronts, thank you again, Sandra B)

[Lisa]

This came up on another forum... I thought there was an invisible foot for the Pfaff.... but I'm not sure. I'll have to ck. that out.

Hi Karen!

Here's a link to instructions for using the Pfaff Invisible Zipper Foot, along w/ a picture of the foot, of course!  

Interestingly enough, the instructions say to "never iron the zipper"!   I'm not sure what to make of the discrepancy in approaches...perhaps using their foot works best if you don't iron?  But using other feet you need to?

HTH,

Lisa

[Janis]

Well, I don't know what the heck happened, but I made a post and it disappeared   Anyway, there was a thread on this topic awhile back.  Here it is, I think:

http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,7315.0.html

[PatTM]

I, too, use the Bernina invisible zipper foot and it makes all the difference in how my zipper applications turn out.  I used the plastic foot made for invisible zippers for a long time and was never really happy with the result.  The Bernina foot made all my problems go away.  Life should be so easy!!

[Quilt Queen]

I've never done an invisible zipper on a garment before and was a little uncertain as to how to do it.  It seemed abit confusing but the links provided here and discussion on feet make me think it can't be all that hard to do.
Just  a question, on the pfaff link, which side of the fabric is the zipper applied to?  It looks like the area the zip would be stitched into is facing right side up so that the reverse of the fabric is on the back side out of sight- I can't see any raw edges of seam allowance.  Is it correct that the zipper be stitched to the right side?  Does it pull around itself and disappear into the seam?
My tiny and tired little brain can't make sense of the photograph on the Pfaff instructions.  When I've done zippers in the past they were placed underneath a basted seam pressed open, with the remaining portion of the seamline already sewn,  with the zip pull facing onto the back of the garment-so that when the basted seam is ripped out to open it up, the zip is in the correct way.

I've seen invisible zips in some of my garments, evening dresses mostly and dressier skirts, and it is a very nice look I'd like to be able to sew in my own skirts.

And the other question, which foot do seasoned invisible zip inserters think is better- a Pfaff invisible zipper  or a Bernina invisible zipper foot?  I have a Pfaff and there is also a Bernina on lay-by which shouldn't be too far away (the Aurora 440QE), and wonder which foot would be the better investment?

Thanks for your advice!
Quilt Queen

[AnnRowley]

Just  a question, on the pfaff link, which side of the fabric is the zipper applied to?  It looks like the area the zip would be stitched into is facing right side up so that the reverse of the fabric is on the back side out of sight- I can't see any raw edges of seam allowance.  Is it correct that the zipper be stitched to the right side?  Does it pull around itself and disappear into the seam?

You need to forget the 'old' way when you use an invisible zip!  It is correct that you stitch with the right side of the zip facing the right side of the fabric.
It can seem very confusing the first time that you do it but once you've got the idea it will make sense!

Do you have a bought garment with an invisible zip that you can look at and get the idea? 

As for the foot - I have the Pfaff foot which I've found fool proof.  Until they came out with it I had only variable success with earlier feet.
I have no idea how the Bernina one compares; but as you already have the Pfaff then I'd use it.

[BeeBee]

I now us a Viking IZ foot made for my Viking.  Before that I used a pintuck foot with fantastic results.  Maybe better than the IZ foot, but that's not conclusive.  Never had any luck with the plastic ones you buy as a set. 
For me, this: http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2006/11/08/sewing-invisible-zipper/ was the defining tutorial.  Combined with looking at one on a RTW dress.  The light bulb came on.  Now I need to do a lapped zipper some day for variety.

[Karla]

I've been putting these things in for years, and I find that I'm no longer eager to do the stitching in one pass.  I machine baste the zipper in place first, stitching somewhere in the middle of the zipper tape, then I go back and get fussy about doing the close-to-the-teeth stitching.  When I baste, I concentrate on correctly positioning the zipper; when I do the final stitching I can pay attention to getting close to the teeth.  Apparently I can no longer multi-task.     

When you're trying to figure out how to do it the first time, think "right sides together", just as if you were sewing a seam.  The right side of the zipper is placed against the right side of the fabric. 

[BeeBee]

I either hand baste or steam-a-seam before I sew - depending on the fabric and whether I can find the S-A-S  .  I tried just pinning, but the result wasn't very good - pin's pucker.  And the single time I tried "multitasking" was a disaster.

[RobbieK]

I find that sewing the bottom of the seam before putting in the zipper helps me keep straight which side is which and I can better visualize the confusing "sewing right sides together" which still doesn't seem natural putting in a zipper  .  I can cut off the part I don't need at the bottom and I don't get the little bubble at the bottom of the zipper that I can't seem to get rid of any other way.  I use my tucking foot, too.

[cmarie12]

It is correct that you stitch with the right side of the zip facing the right side of the fabric.
It can seem very confusing the first time that you do it but once you've got the idea it will make sense!

Ha!  This is the step that confuses me every time!    And as an old dog trying to learn a new trick let me tell you that the insertion is best when you do ALL of the tips posted above!  Press that zipper as flat as you can!  Baste first...cause then you don't have to pull that stitching that's next to the coil out and practically blind yourself in the process when you've put one side in wrong?!    And finally I found that lately I get the best application using my pintuck foot also...it gets right up next to the coils.  But as Marji told me, practice makes perfect so I figure that I have another 30-40 zippers to put in before I will be perfect! 

[Quilt Queen]

Thankyou all!  How great is this forum?  Ask a question and within 24 hours, from the other side of the world, come multiple answers!  Wonderful 
Hmm I will check the husqvarna tutorial too, (I confess also to having a HV Designer 1 which I do love dressmaking with), I didn't know they are making invisible zipper feet too.
I learned to do a lapped zipper and several other things from their sewing room online animated videos, very helpful site.
I think I'll maybe buy two zips, one short and test it out on some fabric scraps first, and one for the garment I want to sew next that needs a zipper, and then do the garment after I've sewn a sample to practice and get my head around this.
It can't be that hard, many people can evidently manage it but it does seem everyone dislikes those little plastic feet that are sold near the zips in the stores.  I took a look at the packet with its confusing placky parts, couldn't figure out all the bits inside easily, and decided at that point not to do an IZ at alll.  Then learned several ways to do the usual sort of zippers instead.
I'll think which machine I want to do use to sew the zips on most, buy the foot for the machine from the dealer, and practice until I can do a good job on the garment and not have to unpick.

Its wonderful to have all this information to refer back to when I need it.
Thanks very much everyone!
Quilt Queen (Happy dancing, today having sold off one machine to a student, and being now only perhaps $500 away from my Bernina Aurora 440QE!)

[AnnRowley]

To change tack slightly... 
Here in the UK, and I don't know whether this applies world wide or not, 'Vogue Patterns' magazine has now changed its title to 'Sew Today' and incorporates Butterick and McCall patterns. (I'll bite my tongue on what I think of this  )

The current July/August issue has a series of tutorial articles - one is by Sandra Betzina on 'Mastering the invisible zip'.
DO NOT use this method! Or if you do be very careful because there is a very confusing mistake in one of the photos.  Having gone to great lengths to describe how to avoid twisting the zip when attaching the second side the photo shows it twisted!!! 
I double checked by trying to duplicate the photo to confirm that it is indeed wrong.

So be warned...

[fzxdoc]

Wow, Ann, good pick up on that error!  I saw the article, but didn't really read it since I've been happily inserting invisible zippers for what seems like a zillion years. I too use my pintuck foot with no probs, FWIW.   I can't believe they made such a huge mistake in a tutorial article.  I'm going to have to grab that magazine and take a closer look.

Perhaps on this side of the pond our future Vogue Pattern magazines will also be combined with McCalls and Butterick. Arrrrgh! That's distressing. That will just dilute the Vogue pattern photos and ideas. Just like Burda WOF does with the interior dec (non sewing) articles.  I'd rather see the space used for more garment designs. In the case of Vogue Pattern magazine, I've really enjoyed the past year since they switched to more in depth articles. I hate to see it changed. Another belt tightening move, I guess.

Kathryn

[fzxdoc]

To change tack slightly...  
Here in the UK, and I don't know whether this applies world wide or not, 'Vogue Patterns' magazine has now changed its title to 'Sew Today' and incorporates Butterick and McCall patterns. (I'll bite my tongue on what I think of this  )

The current July/August issue has a series of tutorial articles - one is by Sandra Betzina on 'Mastering the invisible zip'.
DO NOT use this method! Or if you do be very careful because there is a very confusing mistake in one of the photos.  Having gone to great lengths to describe how to avoid twisting the zip when attaching the second side the photo shows it twisted!!!  
I double checked by trying to duplicate the photo to confirm that it is indeed wrong.

So be warned...

Ann, are you talking about the photo labeled "H"? I just looked at my magazine and if we are looking at the right sides of each pattern piece, then wouldn't the zipper untwist when those right sides are put back together face to face and the rest of the seam is sewn?  I guess I'll have to do like you did and get a zipper out and duplicate the photo to see the error.  There's no substitute for hands on research, I guess.  

ETA: or maybe I need to study it closer with my glasses on. 

Kathryn

[PeggyLynn]

I just had to put in invisible zippers in three pillow covers. Since I have never put in a zipper of any kind with my Janome I practiced first on scrap fabric using washaway basting thread. I also got a Janome concealed zipper foot which does a great job of rolling the zipper coil towards the center so you can stitch flush against the coil. In the past I've found that the plastic generic invisible zipper feet were little more than worthless junk. I think it is worth buying a metal foot that fits your machine no matter what the brand.

During practice I discovered that if you feed the fabric at a slight angle so it runs slightly across the front face of the center part of the concealed zipper foot that it helps the foot roll the zipper coil towards the center and makes it easier to sew absolutely flush against the coil. Stitching that closely to the coil works nicely for a thin or medium weight fabric but my distant recollection is that heavier fabrics or crossing seam lines on dresses won't zip if stitched that closely.

My zippers were a bit shorter than the seam so I stitched the short end seams and basted where the zipper would go, pressed open and overcast each seam edge. Then I put Wonder Tape on one side of the right side of the zipper and lined it up while sticking it to the seam allowance by carefully rolling the center of the zipper right side down on the seam line. Then I used Wonder Tape to fasten down the other side of the zipper to its seam allowance.

I had some vague recollection of a past experience where the Wonder Tape allowed the fabric to shift slightly when sewing in the zipper so I used my regular zipper foot to baste each side of the zipper in the seam allowances. Then I picked out the basted part of the seam. After that I used the directions that came with the zipper to finish up. I did find that the same trick of feeding the fabric at a slight angle enabled the regular zipper foot to get close enough to the coils to do a good job of finishing up stitching the part of the zipper that is left free when you hit the slider using the concealed zipper foot.

The description sounds fiddly but putting in the zippers actually went quite quickly and all three came out perfectly.

When practicing I found that trying to press the invisible zipper coils towards the center of the zipper per the directions was an exercise in utter futility which matches my recollection of past attempts.