Truly Invisible Zippers

[cmarie12]

Ann & Kathryn - they have discontinued the Butterick/McCalls magazine which use to be Sewing Today.  I think only the Vogue Pattern magazine had a subscription base worth saving, so it would be the death knell of the magazine to incorporate Butterick and McCall patterns.  Plus the internet does that job free for them these days...how many blogs do reviews of new patterns the same day or a day or two after they arrive.  How many folders are there on PR devoted to the new pattern releases with pics of the patterns included.  Free advertisement without the costs.

As for the invisible zipper article, I started to read it and when I got to the part about using the Wonder Tape to "baste" the zipper to the fabric, turned the page.  This may be a helpful hint but as someone who is struggling with invisible zipper insertion, I want to learn the "right" way to do it before I learn shortcuts.  But that's just me...

[BeeBee]

I use steam-a-seam, everytime.  Proper or not, it works very well.

[fzxdoc]

As for the invisible zipper article, I started to read it and when I got to the part about using the Wonder Tape to "baste" the zipper to the fabric, turned the page.  This may be a helpful hint but as someone who is struggling with invisible zipper insertion, I want to learn the "right" way to do it before I learn shortcuts.  But that's just me...

Carolyn, I totally agree!  I've only used Wonder Tape once for a tricky neckline.  It was awful. It was stiff and never really washed out.  I never used it again, and I certainly would never use it for a zipper insertion.

Sometimes tips like that give me pause. After all, what happens if one uses Wonder Tape for a garment that is to be dry cleaned? Does it just stay in the seam forever? Does it turn gummy with dry cleaning? I don't even want to know. 

And I hope they don't change Vogue Patterns magazine!

Kathryn

[AnnRowley]

Carolyn and Kathryn, I have to agree about the Wonder Tape idea; it sounds truly awful to me! I'm not sure if it's even available here but I'm not remotely tempted.

My quarrel with the article was the incorrect photo - if you're going to teach something at least make sure it's correct...

I pinned a zip to check that the photo was indeed wrong - it is.

                                                               
                                                                                                                           
  As shown in the magazine                                                                            Applied correctly

I just needed to prove to myself what it should look like.

As for the UK Sewing Today - It's a real con; Vogue patterns was published bi-monthly so you paid for six copies a year, Sew Today is monthly so it costs twice as much.   But it has useful advertisements...

[mardel]

I used that wonder tape long ago, following just that suggestion, in an invisible zipper.  It stays stiff and yucky forever.  I used it in a skirt, which I still have and still almost love.  Every time I put it in I grumble about that zipper.  Chalk it up as a learning experience.  But it is useable and the zipper lies fine when wearing.

[Karla]

I'm with BeeBee.  Steam-a-Seam rocks.

[AmyH]

This is backing up the discussion a bit, but I just wanted to chime in on another way to get the stitching super close to the coil on an invisible zip.  I have a Bernina 950 (the industrial Bernina), and use my corded buttonhole foot to sew invisible zips.  It works better than any invisible zipper foot, and at a fraction of the cost.  It has grooves to lock over a corded buttonhole, but they work perfectly to lock over the coil of the zipper.  The stitching is a perfect distance every time and goes so fast!  Just my two cents worth.

[PeggyLynn]

How very odd that more than one person has had problems with Wonder tape not washing out and becoming stiff. I've used Wonder Tape for many, many years and never had a single problem with it not washing completely out. That said, I've never, ever used Wonder Tape nor any other washaway product for anything that requires dry cleaning. I can't recall seeing anything on the package of Wonder Tape or any other washaway product that dry cleaning would remove them. I also rinse out the Wonder Tape before ironing.

For dry clean only items I hand baste but for washable items I much prefer taking advantage of the speed and ease of Wonder tape to accurately align invisible zippers, stripes and plaids to perfection.

Out of curiosity I just did a quick test washing out Wonder tape on scraps of cotton, rayon, linen and silk. It took less than two minutes for it to disappear completely under running water.

[sdBev]

..
The description sounds fiddly but putting in the zippers actually went quite quickly and all three came out perfectly.
..

But I do appreciate your taking the time to write all this down.  Sometimes, especially the first time you do something, it is kinda of fiddly, that's why we do samples.  I'm going to try your technique as soon as I can!

[Saashka]

My quarrel with the article was the incorrect photo ...

Ann, I think I'm misunderstanding something. I pinned my zipper both ways and it still comes out the same. That said, I always sew the zipper first, then the seam below it so it makes no difference if it's all twisted at first - it gets untwisted when I zip it closed prior to sewing the seam below it.

Do you sew the seam first, then put in the zipper?

[AnnRowley]

Ann, I think I'm misunderstanding something. I pinned my zipper both ways and it still comes out the same. That said, I always sew the zipper first, then the seam below it so it makes no difference if it's all twisted at first - it gets untwisted when I zip it closed prior to sewing the seam below it.

Do you sew the seam first, then put in the zipper?

Oh... of  course you can untwist it!!!    I just hadn't realised that was possible with an unstitched seam - I stand corrected on this one, thank you.

But... as I sew the seam first it would still be wrong for me...

[srna]

If you look at the incorrect picture, both sides of the zipper are twisted the same way, whereas in the correct picture, they are twisted in opposite directions.  If the seam is sewn first, they MUST be twisted in opposite directions so they right themselves when the seam is in its final position with respect to the garment.

Liz