Nancy Erickson/FSG Patterns & Newsletter 3

[sewfashion]

It looks as though the natural fibers are labeled as such and perhaps the poly and rayons non-labeled for fiber content.  When you were first sent your newsletter subscription, included was a page of interfacing swatches.  Why not get those out, carry them along to the store and compare?  Without a fiber content label, the muslin fusible 4402 appears to be a weft insertion interfacing and it is labeled for light (soft) tailoring.  The Fusible Domette also seems a possiblity....both for tailors' weft.  Supersoft flexible or Ultra Light Polyfix may be a comparable fusible underlining.  Taking your swatches and comparing may be simplest then.  DO NOT BUY any woven fusibles, or canvas types.  

Why not try some of your other suppliers and local fabric shoppes.  MacCulloch and Wallis is an old garde sewing supply house, maybe there is something else more modern and less expensive as well.  I got a kick out of looking at their fabrics...the top pink/black tweed in the group is nearly identical to the Peony Tweed I offered at least 5 years ago at a fraction of the price without the lurex yarn.  So comparably, their prices are very high to US and since they are closer to the continent and many fabrics are made on the isle, you'd think their prices would be better as well.  I'd shop elsewhere and take those swatches along!  Some of the shops along Berwick? or Regent?  I don't have my notes handy, but many of those costume and fabric shoppes would also carry suitable interfacings.

[ejvc]

Ahem, yes, now FINDING that sheet -- but it's a great idea.  AnnRowley recommended English Couture - they don't have pictures but they do have something labelled "Weft Insertion".  I can certainly go to Berwick Street; also to Goldhawk Road, which is where I buy my fabrics mostly, but I haven't bought interfacings from them.  Indeed M&W are not where I would buy my fabric as they are very expensive, even for English fabric stores.  Domette, I have discovered, is fluffy and would be used for a warm interlining, maybe in a coat?

Off to rummage for my interfacings sample sheet....
Elizabeth

ETA: found it!

[sdBev]

Elizabeth I've often bought small amounts just to try.  I ask the store what is their minimum purchase and that's the amount I buy.  After trying it on scraps of projects-past, I have a reasonable idea how the interfacing would work and if I want to purchase it.  Since you're just starting into tailoring, you will encumber some expenses.  Count it as "pay to learn".  Am surprised we haven't heard from ruthie or sewyld.  I thought they were both in your part of the world.  Not close enough though?

[Lisanne]

Elizabeth.  I've found the same problem !

Try Gill Arnold in Birmingham
http://www.gillarnold.co.uk/interfaces

And Sew Essential sometimes has odd things you can't find elsewhere.
http://www.sewessential.co.uk/

[ejvc]

Thanks everyone!  Very helpful links, Lisanne - I do know Sew Essential but not Gill Arnold.

[Carolyn]

i am still working on the 1945 jacket in a black wool crepe and trying to get the fit just right.  I'm having challenges in the shoulder/arm area.  I think part of the problem is that I should have narrowed the shoulder a little more, which I will do on the next jacket.  I also seem to have too much fabric on the bodice near the side/bottom of the arm hole.  Is it because the shoulder is too broad, or should I take it in at the princess seam?

I saw on patternreview where one person cut a wedge into the front side taking out some of the bulk and creating more of a curve/dart.  This will mean removing the arms at this point.  Do you think that would solve the problem?

For the next jacket, I may go down a size at the top and possibly do a FBA.  The shoulders just seam a bit overwhelming even after narrowing by 5/8" and altering for a sloping shoulder.

[Sergerqueen]

Carolyn, I have had the same issues with this pattern as you.  I am working with a sewing friend to help improve fit of my garments and she looked at the last 1945 I made.  Even though I had narrowed the shoulders quite bit, she thought they still could use more narrowing.  I also had some pulling at the bust so I need to make a FBA.  I also need to take more in at the back.  So I am ready to start soon at improving my pattern and will definitely make the FBA and narrow the shoulders more as well as take in the back.  These are all minor tweaks, but I think I will definitely be closer to the perfect jacket pattern for me.

If you read some of the thread, "Questions for D-Cuppers" in this same section, you will find tips and suggestions for women with similar fitting challenges.

[Carolyn]

Thanks, Sergerqueen.  I usually cut out the size for my high bust measurement and do an FBA.  Thought I had for this pattern as well.  But the shoulder still seems large, particularly in areas I normally don't have problems. I may try to take it in more at the princess seam.  I'm determined to get this right, even if I have to take out the sleeves.

Nancy, is the pattern drafted with a larger area near the armysce due to a stronger shoulder on the pattern? In a couple of pictures on Pattern review, I see folds of fabric along the shoulder down the front as mine seems to be.

[sewfashion]

In the Jackets Workbook go to page 104.  You'll see it all there and an easy quick fix.  The fit has to be checked with the shoulder pad...that's a consistent error I see in classes and photos women send.  It typically occurs in narrow shouldered women with full busts...a natural alteration for that figure....or when women overestimate their size and just cut too large a pattern size  After working with the Big 4, most women naturally cut too big a size--that I see over and over and we hear on the message board most frequently when this occurs.

Why did you alter for a sloping shoulder?  In your photos, it doesn't seem obvious and the 1945 cut and shoulder pad would camouflage and hold up your armscye.

I'm fanatical about the shoulder and armscye fit which is why there is a chapter about it in the workbook.  For me, the whole garment hangs from the shoulder. It is drafted with a narrower shoulder actually which is why this usually happens from cutting too large a size or altering without a muslin or tissue fit or comparison.   I haven't read pattern review for quite some time but I haven't seen anything ill fitting in the past there, quite the opposite.   You can read all about how the armscye/shoulder was created on page 97.  When I've been teaching, most women are surprised they fit a smaller size than they usually use.  I'm much truer to ready-to-wear.

[ejvc]

Nancy, that's very interesting. I have another question for you:

Although I have narrow shoulders, I have to do a big square shoulder adjustment - normally I add an extra 1 1/4" total (5/8" about to both front and back) so that my shoulder is nearly horizontal and raise the armscye accordingly; I also tend to use very slim shoulderpads because otherwise (as I saw in the 80s!) I get clothes whose shoulders tilt up! Not flattering!  Is there anything I need to be cautious of when making this alteration to the 1945, do you think?  Also, although my finished measurements for bust/waist/hip say use a size 12 jacket, I cut the 1960 top in size 8 and the size 8 shoulders are my width -- I am thinking of cutting size 8 and adjusting; again, anything to be cautious of?

Appreciate your advice,

Elizabeth

[Carolyn]

Thanks, Nancy.  I'll look in the workbook when I get home.  Everything fits great except in the shoulders.  I did a tissue fitting and always used the shoulder pads.  I think I need to go down a size in the shoulders, which will probably correct the fitting issues.

Last night, I pulled out the pattern pieces again, pinned them, and think that if I take it in a little more in the shoulders, and take it in at the side front, it will work.  Of course, I may change my mind when I look in the workbook!  I love what I have done so much with the piece I'm working it on, it's worth taking out the sleeves and working on these alterations.

Next time, I plan to cut out an 8 on top and leaving it at a 10 from the waist down.

Thanks for your help.  I'm looking forward to getting the fit just right so I can work on the two pieces of fabric I just purchased from you.

[sewfashion]

Elizabeth, the shoulders in the '80s were either extended or dropped...the armscye did not ride on the shoulder but extended beyond it.  The shoulder pads that the jacket should use are thin across the shoulder but have a sleeve head built onto the end and are stitched in a rounded/shaped fashion to support the sleeve head.  With a square shoulder and if you used an extraordinary thick pad, you'd be right in fashion with current Balmain and Balenciaga.   You said you have narrow shoulders...then be sure to cut the appropriate shoulder width and then do whatever other alterations are necessary--bust, waist placement, hip, etc.  Big square shoulders?  You don't know how this is going to fit until you compare it to other patterns you've used that work or garments you wear.  There's nothing wrong with raising the shoulder angle a bit...I've written about that as well in the Jackets Workbook and a newsletter.  Chanel, Armani, Akris and many other  shoulders can be a bit straighter and still easily accept my shoulder pad (the design is a duplicate of what I found in high end ready-to-wear).  My pattern is adjusted that way for me and I've done that for many years--I once had the head of the Chicago Chanel boutique's alterations department teach at a seminar for me--it's all in the Jackets Workbook, photos, how-to instructions and results that raise the entire armscye.  That's where I learned to do this amrscye lift.  You can make that alteration to the pattern whether you have square shoulders or not...we can make the garment give us whatever silhouette we wish...well not everywhere, wouldn't that be nice?  In the Jackets Workbook, like the first time I wrote about this, I encourage everyone to try it at least once.  It won't change how the jacket fits, but rather how it hangs on the body.  I'm dashing this morning so I hope I've explained this alright, though most of you have the workbook or I wouldn't refer to it here.

Carolyn, I looked at a few of the photos on pattern review and I think I see what you saw, though it's only in one view which makes me think it's the wearer--posture, body position, lighting, whatever and not the fit of the garment since it is only on one side.  I think in one of the photos, a F(uller)BA could perhaps be valid, but if I recall was done on subsequent jackets.  I think most of them are just terrific.

The biggest mistake in sewing the patterns is first too big and second altering as you would for a Big 4 without trying the pattern's fit beforehand.  It's just not that hard, but procrastination is sometimes the culprit that raises more questions when just digging in and starting answers and solves itself  I'd rather teach jacket making to intermediate/beginner's than skirts or pants any day of the week.  It's the most expensive garment to buy, so why not work on the one that's the most valuable and gives you the best figure possible?   It always has that "WOW" factor when you're done and I hear over and over how friends ask, "Did you lose weight?"

[Carolyn]

Thanks, Nancy.  I'll look in the Workbook when I get home.  I think the big culprit is the size and I should go down a size.  You are right that most of the pictures in Pattern Review are perfect.  I just found a couple that seemed to have excess fabric where I did.  Perhaps they needed to go down in size as well.

I do love the pattern and know that it takes work to get the perfect fit.  Fortunately, your pattern is beautifully drafted and has many options for alterations with the princess seams.  I can't wait to try different versions when this one is completed.

I was in Macy's recently snoop shopping and found a jacket that looked like the 1945 without the lapels.  It reminded me of some of the jackets you have made.  It was a longer jacket with patch pockets that were trimmed in fringe with a gold chain on top.  The edges were also trimmed in fringe from the fabric.  Very cute.

[Carolyn]

Hi Nancy!

I checked the workbook on p. 104 and that was exactly the problem.  When I pinned it, it was perfect.  The jacket looks great.  I went with a size 10, but definitely needed to go down to a size 8. Can't wait to take out the sleeves, make the alterations, and finish it.

Thanks for your help.

[ejvc]

As usual, I am jumping in at the deep end and making my first proper jacket in a check! Nancy or others who have used the 1945 pattern with a check or stripe -- is there a convenient place on the pattern to put the "match check here" line so that my cutting works best?  And also, very probably related -- I feel like an idiot but I can't find the waistline marking.  I want to be sure the jacket fits properly lengthwise but I just can't locate the mark. And then, how do you extend it round the side/back pieces?  I say it's related as I could match the check line at the waist, I think.  

I just traced all the pieces off to make the 1945C and the sheer number of pieces is intimidating, even after I set aside the pieces for the lining/interfacing; but after my recent success with the skirt and blouse for this outfit I am forging ahead.

And thanks to nancy's advice, I altered the pattern to raise the shoulder and armscye 5/8", but did nothing to the sleeve cap.

[marciae]

If memory serves me right - the waist mark is on the back piece.  Before I did much altering to the pattern I'd do a tissue or muslin fit - you might not need the alteration you're talking about.  Too many people 'automatically' make adjustments before they try the pattern.  If you start with the right size you'll be surprised at the fit.

[ejvc]

Thanks Marcia, I'll look.  I figured that since Nancy (who presumably has more ordinary shoulders) found the jacket attractive with the squarer shoulder, I wasn't going to do any harm with that alteration.  I am not going to do any other alterations unless the waist is far out of whack; but although I'm slightly short-waisted I don't normally alter for this on commercial patterns so hopefully it will be OK.  There are enough seams that I can let out easily if I am a bit larger than the size 8 size in the bust or hip.  I plan to baste first so it will be easy to alter this first one.  The only thing I am really concerned about is matching those checks.

[marciae]

I'm very short waisted and I don't make a waist adjustment either - I think I'm off about a quarter of an inch.  Yes, I know I should still adjust - I just chose not to!!  Also the bust is a C - in case you forgot - or maybe didn't know.!   If I remember you have square shoulders?? - - so I would think the pattern style would be flattering to you without rounding out the shoulder?   JMHO!!

[joan71]

ejvc, do you have Nancy's  jacket workbook?  Both of your questions are answered fully in it about identifying your waist and matching checks/plaids.  I highly recommend the book......it has a wealth of information about fitting and helpful sewing techniques as well as variations on the 1945 pattern.

[ejvc]

I do indeed - I shall have to read it fully again.  Thanks!

[LibrarianAtWork]

Elizabeth, you will be able to get your checks to match perfectly all the way around the body. With the sleeves, I just looked at my jacket. The shorter sleeve seam is matched, but the longer one won't match. That's the one that is marked "ease" and "stretch" on the pattern pieces. At least, that's what I remember without going to look at the pattern in the sewing room. You can measure up from the hem to a certain place on each piece and draw a line in order to get the match working on the fabric. It helps that you can get most of the pieces across one width if you are using 60" fabric. That means you can line them up perfectly before you cut. HTH,
Linda

[MaryOK]

Elizabeth, I shorten other patterns 1" above the waist, but I do not need to for the 1945.

[sewfashion]

Congratulations Carolyn   I'm glad to hear that your fit issue was easily fixed and you're able to finish it up.  When I put together the workbook, I wanted to include everything I'd been asked for decades about jacket fitting and construction all the while developing the soft tailoring methods that are now the rule instead of the exception. 

Elizabeth, all of the information you've asked about is in the jackets workbook, but to just reply quickly here, I match plaids and checks at the bottom cutting line, then pin the seams together from the bottom up.  I know that isn't traditional, but with the tweedy fabrics that often are woven with a predominant crosswise line, it's just much easier when soft tailoring and easing long seams for shaping.  If it doesn't match along the bottom, when you turn up the hem, it can be a very obvious diagonal eyesore.  

On the sleeve, you match the front armscye/cap notch to the body's front armscye notch.  The rest of the sleeve's long seams (to get a nice shape) should be matched to the notch and top of the sleeve vent then eased in between which won't allow you to get a perfect match on the long back sleeve seam.  It's your call whether or not you want the "check" to exactly match or that you want your sleeve to have a great shape at the elbow.  The back armscye cannot be matched unless you split the sleeve and do a much more advanced treatment down the middle of the cap/grain.  It is not expected for the sleeve cap to match the body on the back.  Do not ignore the instructions to ease/stretch the sleeve at the elbow when working with a plain or textured fabric...it's clearly labeled on the pattern and then discussed at length in the workbook.  Quite awhile ago, someone on pattern review who used very old-fashioned tailoring techniques without trying anything new or suggested (she refused to even consider soft tailoring), even ignored the elbow ease and then complained the notches didn't match!    Well, of course not if you don't follow the ease/stretch for the elbow!  Ugh.  The ease/stretch is to make up for the loss of the traditional elbow dart...I went into length about all of that in the July 2002 newsletter and then again in the workbook starting on page 100.  Since the workbook was designed to be used as you sew a jacket, I'll bet if you get it out and use it that way, all of these questions will be answered with illustrations that are really much better than us trying to explain in text only.  So far, you'll find everything you've asked here explained in depth with illustrations in the workbook.  It's not that we don't want to answer, but it's all much clearer with the illustrations and diagrams.  Get your money's worth out of the book.  It's terrific for first time jacket constructors.  It's not as social, but ever so much more in depth.

[ejvc]

Nancy, thank you for your long comment.  Indeed since Joan pointed it out I've been looking at my jackets workbook again - I read cover to cover when I first got it, but that was about a year ago, so naturally I forgot many of the things in it.  I shall be using it to construct my jacket.  Thank you for the information on the sleeve as well.

I placed an interfacing order from a supplier that AnnRowley recommended - English Couture.  I ordered Weft Insertion and Fine Sheer Fusible for the underlining.  It's an interesting supplier and seems like they do courses as well. My time for shopping, even fabric shopping, is limited, so I sometimes prefer to order.  We shall see if this was a good decision or not!  However tomorrow I'm heading out to find buttons (I'll check Liberty and Button Queen) and hopefully to buy some boots to wear with the checked suit.  Also I may get some narrow navy grosgrain or something for trimming.  I'm considering trimming the jacket and reading all the great trim stuff in the Jackets Workbook is inspiring.  The selvedges on this fabric are not great; one is very short and the other, though longer, has an ugly orange thread in it.  So maybe I'll be able to think of something while I'm out.  I crocheted a beautiful beautiful trim for an as-yet unborn jacket some years ago; the fabric is a lovely silk tweed in black, brown and cream, and I have red silk for the lining.  The trim is made from a novelty yarn in just the same colours.  Amazing.  Perhaps i will be as lucky with this fabric.

[sdBev]

One of the pleasures of readin this topic is watching as new person goes through the process.  It's so much more exciting when they ask questions and others who've been down this route answer.  I suppose it's the social atmosphere, the vicarious pleasure and even a little evil-minded ness that says "thank heavens someone else had this problem".  I'm looking forward to all your comments Elizabeth, it is a pleasure for me.

[vtmartha]

I absolutely agree, Bev.  I haven't actually finished my only 1945 jacket and I look here for inspiration.  I don't know what my problem is as the jacket will be lovely and it should fit well.  I am at the point of attaching the lining and I need to take an unconventional approach because of some design decisions I made.  I know I can figure it out but I just can't seem to set aside the time.  I'm thinking of making another jacket in the meantime, according to the instructions, so that I might have a success under my belt. 

[ejvc]

Thank you for your encouragement, Bev!  

Martha, I was stuck for the longest time on the navy silk blouse I just made.  It sat on my dress form (incidentally rendering the form useless) for about a year.  I took 15 minutes of concentrated effort and then I figured out my problem.  It's a beautiful blouse.  Maybe the problem is bigger in your mind than in actuality.  Why don't you describe it for us?  What design decisions did you make?

Another thing I was doing is looking at Polyvore for "checked jacket" (checks too big) and "houndstooth jacket" (better, although this fabric isn't a classic houndstooth).  This jacket is unlike my typical design process; I don't have a specific idea for the jacket, I just want something to go with the skirt.  As I'm thinking of trim and buttons, I was thinking it would be really better to have a sketch done from my croquis and play around with the details on paper rather than with my fabric, ya know what I mean?  Anyway there is an interesting number from Alexander McQueen with the big shoulders Nancy was mentioning and a nipped in wasp-waist with some kind of funky closure:

Here it is:



Aha, here is the description, and here's the link: "Monochrome wool jacket with houndstooth print, looped fringe trim with stitched patent panels, partial silver-tone zip-fastening front, full sleeves, shoulder pads, and padding at hips. Fully lined. 98% virgin wool, 1% polyamide, 1% elastane. Dry clean."

Ha ha ha, padding at the hips, I guess I could leave that out...

Elizabeth

[ejvc]

Wow, my interfacing order is here already!  I love the English postal system.  So super-quick!  The weft insertion seems to be lighter-weight than the one on Nancy's sample card.  In fact, it's not weft insertion at all, but lines of stitching stabilising the interfacing.  While I'm out today on errands I'll have a look - Liberty's may carry interfacings as well, and their haberdashery (notions) are typically not overpriced.

[vtmartha]

Martha, I was stuck for the longest time on the navy silk blouse I just made.  It sat on my dress form (incidentally rendering the form useless) for about a year.  I took 15 minutes of concentrated effort and then I figured out my problem.  It's a beautiful blouse.  Maybe the problem is bigger in your mind than in actuality.  Why don't you describe it for us?  What design decisions did you make?

The problem is totally in my mind!  While I'm pretty much self-taught at this hobby, I have on occasion put together some pretty amazing things.  I'm sort of afraid that someone will say 'why did you do that? tsk tsk' but that's another mental hang up I have.  So anyway, I took my garment off my dress form after many months as I was afraid it might fade, but I'm glad to know our dress forms are in good company. 

The jacket is corduroy and the lining silk charmeuse.  I am lining this jacket to the edge, which means that the outer collar and the lapels will be silk charmeuse.  I have the jacket constructed, including sleeves; the lining is likewise, with the exception of the pieces which will serve as the outer lapels and an inner (corduroy) and outer (silk) collar.  I still need to interface and I've decided on cotton flannel as I'd like a slightly padded look to the silk.  I think this may be where my 'hang up' is as I tried lots of different interfacings without getting my imagined look.  So, you might say I am paralyzed by fear of not getting it right.  And what could possibly go wrong?  No one is going to inspect my work or even notice if the buttonholes aren't straight.  Eek!  I totally forgot about that step ahead.  So I merrily make cardigans, knit tops and skirts. 

[marciae]

There seems to be a ...... don't know what to call it .............  between sewers - the minute someone comments on how nice our garment looks we immediately have to point out the sewing flaws in it!!   We feel like we're keeping secrets, I guess!!   So, Martha finish that jacket - you don't need to tell or show a sole what 'mistakes/design features' are!!  It sounds like a great jacket.  But, I do know about mental hangups!!

[Carolyn]

Marciae, you are so right!  My new husband has even noticed that I do this.  Why do we have to apologize for the mistakes we make when we really know we look fabulous?  The clothes we make certainly look better than RTW because they fit.  But we still have to point out the flaws.

[ejvc]

So it's that you're not getting your "padded" look, Martha?  Can you order a few interfacings that "might" work?  Maybe you can get a swatch set of interfacings?  If you really want "padded" there's also fusible fleece...

The jacket sounds really pretty.

I think many of us, myself included, are self-taught.  You know so is David Page Coffin, who I think has made quite a bit of money doing it his way and not the "expert" way - have some confidence in yourself as an artist and craftswoman.  Why not?  So it's not perfect, the next jacket will be better.

Elizabeth

Re: the fear - I think women are socialised to be very very cautious about their achievements and very very forthright about their failings.  It's a defence mechanism.  But you are among friends here.

ETA: Forgot to say - success with buttons, I got some beautiful pewter ones at Liberty, and they even had them in both garment and sleeve sizes.  They really have the most beautiful buttons there.

[sewfashion]

It's not just women who sew!  My husband makes beautiful cabinets and woodworking projects, but he does the same thing when he's showing a project to someone who also does woodworking.  It's the nature of what we do--sharing with others familiar with the work.  One weekend he cut a piece too short and was swearing while I cut a front too narrow and did the same.  We shared the common experience (also put away everything for the rest of that afternoon and then solved our issues the next morning).  I never talk about my sewing "lapses" with women who don't sew.  Heck, most can't even pick out their clothes let alone sew them.  It's one of the things that irks me about the current International Best Dressed List.  40 years ago, the women chose what and how they wore it themselves, but today, most have stylists who do all of it.  Best dressed now means, best dressed by someone else.  Remember how Oprah used to dress before she had a stylist?  Now she's on the best-dressed liist.  It may confer status but certainly not personal taste.  

I'm always open to having you email me photos of projects you need critiqued for privacy's sake.  I for one, can just never imagine posting pictures of myself, but then again, I don't understand facebook.  30 Rock did a funny take on it not long ago that summed up my thoughts about it. Speaking of TV, you may want to check out a reality show that I think is pretty real...Kell on Earth on Bravo.  It recently just showed all of the behind the scenes PR work at the Ralph Rucci show.  I think it rather unfairly portrayed it since Kelli Cutrone and her staff had nothing to do with the actual show presentation, only the PR.  Judy Rice did all of the show work as I had described in a newsletter back in 2008.  She is the sister of a longtime, subscriber some of you know.  Judy was also contracted for the Project Runway finale show this year.  See you're all just 6 degrees of separation from someone who knows someone, who knows someone who knows someone, who knows...    

[sewsy]

Hunh.! Nancy, I thought that I was the only person in America that didn't get facebook. Or not wanting to post pictures online. Don't get me wrong. I enjoy those who want to post pictures and share what they've sewn. At this point, it's just not me. Maybe later. I'll definitely try and check out Kell on Earth, so thanks for the heads up.

There's no such thing as privacy anymore. 

[Nyla 49]

Hello to you all from Arizona.   Yes, we are still snowbirding, and probably won't start home until mid-March.

Just had to respond to the facebook things.    I agree that privacy is largely a thing of the past; but I am a facebook user; one heck of a Farmville farmer, too    I have "found" friends and relatives there that I haven't seen or heard from in decades, so I am enjoying that.   We have much in common still, even after all these years, and not just the bloodlines.

When I post photos there, I designate that only my friends can see them.   You can choose everyone, no one, friends or friends of friends.   I choose just my friends, so I know who is seeing them.   And with the exception of two people, I am not friends with anybody I don't personally know and have met.   The two exceptions are a nurse I "met" on a nurse's forum, much like this one, and a 30 year old man who is my one and only macho-male quilting friend.    He IS a friend of a friend, however, and that is how we hooked up.   I hope we can meet some day and trade quilt  blocks!