Basting (again)

[Janis]

OK, I just had a MAJOR "duh" moment.  In fact, you may have seen the flash from New Queensland    This doesn't affect my accuracy in tracing, but does make a difference in my use of the markings and separating the pieces.  I WAS:  tracing - leaving the loop, including markings.  Then snipping the loop to remove the paper (necessary for darts, pleats, etch), then separating by snipping apart..  Being very careful not to pull out my marks.  I should pull the pieces apart and snip inside.  This will leave lines on both pieces of fabric.  We need a "thump on the head" icon.  Again, this flash of inspiration was brought to you by C&T. 

Gotta love those "a ha" moments

[SherryV]

BeeBee,
.... 2) don't forget to remove all your thread tracing after you baste but before you sew.  Makes a huge difference!

ELizabeth

I'm obviously missing something here.  If the point of thread tracing is to provide a guide for stitching, and you baste a whole garment together by them to check for fit, then remove the tracing threads before machine stitching, what was the point?  The thread's not there when you machine stitch to guide you. 

And if you undo the the basting so you can machine sew it, what good was all the basting?  You can't leave all the adjustments made during the basting when you machine stitch (e.g., any adjustments in sleeves will need to be removed so you can sew the shoulders, sideseams, etc.)  Is it the order of construction I don't understand?   

[Janis]

Whoops, I misunderstood the post.

[Vivian]

Hi Sherry, I'm not Elizabeth but I thought I'd jump in here. From what I've read, you:

1. thread trace the seamlines and make any other markings you want, then
2. hand baste the pieces together (you may need to adjust seamlines from what you originally traced), then
3. remove thread tracing and other markings (but leave hand basting), then
4. machine stitch beside hand basting, then
5. remove hand basting, then
6. press.

Hope it helps.. Anyone out there please correct me if I'm wrong!

Cheers,
Vivian

[SherryV]

Vivian,

Thanks for your step-by-step!  That makes sense.  But I guess I have an area there that still isn't quite clear. 

I'm not sure I understand the part about how Ann bastes the entire garment together and tries it on, then machine stitches and she never has to undo the machine stitching because of the basting step has ensured accuracy...how can you machine stitch a garment that is completely basted together already? 

Wouldn't you have to, for example, remove the collar and the sleeves in order to stitch the main body seams, then reattach the collar and sleeves, etc.?  So if the completely basted-together garment has to be disassembled in order to sew the seams, how would the basting of the whole garment together provide accuracy at the machine?  And where's the pickled peppers Peter Piper picked?  lol, forgive me, this is making me feel quite silly!  If I'm not asking this clearly, let me know and I'll try again   

[Janis]

LOL, Sherry, I've been trying to figure this out, as well.  There is obviously a point at which you have to adjust and/or remove basting and rebaste.  For example, when I basted some pants together, I had to take out the crotch basting after the fitting so that I could sew the inner seams.  Then I rebasted the crotch and machine stitched it.  Also, when you fit and you have to make seam adjustments, you are going to have to take out some basting and rebaste.  At least, that's what I did.  Maybe there is an easier way - I don't know.  Also, I don't think you would need to put a collar and sleeves on before a fitting, just the bodice.  Then you would baste the collar and/or sleeves on when you got to that step of machine stitching.

HTH,
Janis

[miranda]

I like to topstitch a lot of seams on my pants.  Well, I don't so much like to topstitch, as I like my seams topstitched.  I think they lie nice and flat and look better after laundering - I'm a minimalist ironer if I can get away with it!!!  It is much easier to completely sew one seam on pants and topstitch it flat, and then put together the other seam.  That way I only have to topstitch one seam awkwardly.  I do like the handbasting to hold them together and not pull pins out as I go, but I do seem to end up taking apart most of the basting before sewing. 

I'm curious about the benefits of hand basting versus machine basting.  I seem to machine baste a lot - a long stitch length and take the tension down quite a lot.

I did the machine basting to put in a sleeve in a knit dress the other day - the dress was loosely based on a tee pattern I have and I did all sorts of things while cutting it out and knew that I'd need to do a lot of fiddling with the fit.  Anyway I ended up with a sleeve that needed to be set in, rather than sewn flat.  I pinned it at the side seam area up to the notch, pinned the top seam and the top of the sleeve, then used a long loose machine stitch to sew it in, stretching the shorter edge to fit.  Then it all relaxed and I serged, putting the two needles of the serger either side of the basting thread and leaving it in place.  I think it is possible to smooth out small puckers that way without any great unpicking. 

Miranda

[AnnRowley]

...how can you machine stitch a garment that is completely basted together already? 

You can't!

The purpose of a basted fit is to check whether any alterations are necessary before doing any machine stitching.  I do this in stages as Janis has noted.
Sometimes I will add the sleeves at this stage - occasionally the collar.
I assess the fit, note any changes I need and mark them if necessary. Then I deconstruct - basting stitches are quickly and easily removed.

Now I will do the permanent machine stitching in stages, knowing that it's correct and finishing the seams and pressing as I go; and then re-basting the next section and checking the fit if necessary.

I rarely make anything without at least three fittings so I'm unlikely to get any nasty surprises at the end.

Because I find removing machine stitching tedious, time consuming and irritating, as well as possibly damaging the fabric I find this a more creative and accurate way to work.

[SherryV]

Whew, what a relief.  Thought I'd really lost it, hehe!

Thank you all for clearing this up.  I do love handwork and truly disdain frogging, so I am eager to try these techniques on upcoming projects.

 

[ejvc]

Hi, just thought I'd post on this topic again to say -- you can't handbaste unless you mark the seamlines somehow.  I know this probably seems obvious but I think if you cut and match to do your seams you can't really do hand basting.  You would have to baste by machine, and on my machine, at least, this doesn't work very well and I can never get the dratted stuff to pull out.

I'm still with Ann, though, it's worth the time to keep from ripping and having a terrible fit you just don't feel like fixing.

Elizabeth

[ejvc]

I learned a tip from a vintage sewing book that I have found helpful and thought I would pass along here, although it applies to more than basting:  to help prevent knots in your thread, pay attention to which end your needle goes on the thread.  The needle should go on the end of the thread furthest from the spool as you pull out the thread, the knot at the end closest to the  spool.  I don't know why but this definitely makes a difference for me.

[vtmartha]

Thanks for the reminder, Elizabeth.  I've heard this before but can never remember which end is the one I want.  Now, if I can train myself to thread the needle before cutting the thread, I should be all set.

[Janis]

I had never heard that, so thanks for the info, Elizabeth.

[dscheidt]

Thanks for the reminder, Elizabeth.  I've heard this before but can never remember which end is the one I want.  Now, if I can train myself to thread the needle before cutting the thread, I should be all set.

It's to do with the natural twist of the threads.  Most sewing threads are z-twist, made by putting a clock wise twist on the strands as it's made up into thread.  threading so that the motions of sewing tighten threads the twist causes less tangling.  (or maybe it's less tangling if they're loosened.  I can never remember...)  If you're left handed, you'd do it the other way around.  If you use S twist thread, you'd also want to do it the other way around.