On the SIPP
thread, Stashpanache asked:
You mentioned redrawing your dress pattern to sew it in a knit fabric as it called for woven. Are there any general rules about the adjustments needed in a pattern to sew something in knit when the pattern was drawn for woven fabrics? Is there a thread that anybody can think of or a place to send me on SG where I can read about this? I actually encounter this on a regular basis. Also, what do you do about interfacings and facings etc for knit? I bet this has already been discussed?
I have two main guidelines to offer. First: remove all or most the wearing ease from the pattern.
This is pretty simple if the multi-sized pattern includes the finished circumferences at bust/waist/hips for the sizes included. If not, simply flat measure the pattern at those key points (and any others that might be an issue for you). I tend to leave an 1" ease at the hipline, my largest measurement. If I need to go beyond the largest or inside the smallest size line, I use the pivot and slide method so the curves maintain their integrity. I always trace off my patterns anyway, in case I completely foul up any fitting adjustments. That way the original can be reused easily, no harm, no foul. Second: If any of the pattern pieces are supposed to be cut on the bias, consider cutting them on the straight of grain.
The knit will remain fluid on the straight of grain, where a woven might not. It will also tend to drag a skirt down if cut on the bias.
The amount of stretch in the knit can make a huge difference. Less stretch, keep some wearing ease; More stretch, consider going even smaller than your measurements (negative ease). Facings:
Think about binding the edge instead of using a facing. Interfacing:
Lightweight, fusible knit or tricot. Probably not necessary if you replace the facings with bindings.Closures:
You might not need that 22" center back zipper, or any zipper at all. Think about how the garment is going to go on and how using a knit will make that process easier. The dress I just finished had an open neckline and a v-back. I simply eliminated the zipper, and the CB seam in the back bodice. I left the CB seam in the skirt pieces because they were angled to create an A-line effect.
I hope more experienced sewers add more tips to this very short list. I have redrawn only 2 dress patterns to use with knits instead of wovens. Both patterns were simple and did not have facings, nor did they require interfacing. I did use strips of a lightweight knit fusible along the seam where I inserted an invisible zipper in the first dress I made.