Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[Sergerqueen]

I position my welt pockets on the high hip so as to "shave off" some fluff and give a slimmer illusion.  The pocket bags are attached in the waistband.  It is a nice flat pound-free look!

[Linda 75142]

I picked up Threads magazine yesterday and loved the article by Linda Lee on adapting one seam pants into several different designs.  I can't wait to try out some of her ideas!

[Terri K]

Here's me today wearing the narrow version of the One-Seam pant with the Sewing Workshop Liberty jacket.   It's cool and hazy here (that's why they call this region The Smokies).    We got a pretty intense hail storm Friday late afternoon and it tore up a lot of tender leaves,  blooming flowers and the tender water lily leaves in the pond.  Fortunately most of my roses, including these, were just buds at the time.      We spent yesterday cleaning all the mess up.

[lessalt]

Terri,
Your clothes are always wonderful and what a beautiful environment you have!

[Stephie]

Lovely picture of you in your garden Terri

Terry

[Carolyn]

Great picture, Terri.  Your pants fit you well and the outfit is great.  Everytime I see your beautiful surroundings, it reminds me of the three years I lived in Sewanee.  You truly get a feel for all of the seasons.  The roses are gorgeous.  Sorry about the hail storm.

[LindaGF]

I just finished my first pair of one-seam straight-leg pants. I love them. I used the small size without alterations. That's the first time I have used a "small" anything for a long time. That alone is reason to love the pants! LOL. I am just curious why the waistband has to be taped to the pants pattern? Why not cut it as one piece? What am I missing?

This is my first time posting to this board. Hope I've done it right.

I really enjoy reading all of your comments.

Thank you.

[fzxdoc]

Welcome to Stitchers Guild, LindaGF. It's nice to have you here.

Louise's One Seam Pants are so popular. I'm sure someone else who has made them will answer your question quickly. Louise herself often posts to these topics, so you may even hear from her.

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Have fun looking through the site, Linda. Come back and post often!

Kathryn

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am just curious why the waistband has to be taped to the pants pattern? Why not cut it as one piece? What am I missing?

Just a quick stop in between filling orders! Boy, do you gals want this new pattern...I had to bring in reinforcements....Sandy is here tomorrow to help stuff and lick and stick!

Why the top casing is separate...in the straight leg there are 5 sizes and the tapered there are 9 sizes...if the casing was on the pant tissue (all in one piece) that would mean that there would be 5 or 9 fold lines and/or 5 or 9 cutting lines. Think what the top of the pattern would look like...you would have 15 or in the case of the tapered pant 27 lines in about 4 1/4" all with different dash or dots lines you were supposed to keep track of. that is why I have you find your waist line first then tape the waist casing line to your personal waist line. 

You will see that the new pant pattern has been done the same way...find your waist and tape the corresponding casing to that line. Unless you gain or loose a lot of weight, this only has to be done the first time. In gaining or loosing weight you also change in the tummy and fanny so the depth of crotch will also grow or shrink and the casing might have to be moved up or down accordingly.

Off to the orders.  till later, Louise

[Donna]

I am interested in buying the One Seam Pants pattern because I have read almost this entire thread and am therefore sold!  However, I can't detect from the thread exactly what is better about this pattern than other patterns for pull-up elastic-waist pants.  Is the pattern drafted differently than other pants patterns of similar style?  Is it the help LC offers here and in her booklets?  Does one have to be an expert sewer to get the good results people speak of ?  Thank you !

[Susan in Saint John]

I'm not as expert as some of the people on this thread but I'll attempt to answer some of your questions. 

First of all, there are relatively few patterns for "one seam" or no side seam pants.  The lack of a side seam makes the pants easier to fit because you eliminate issues of where does the side seam look best and what shape it should be.  These pants are flattering on most figures because the grainline is not down the centre of the legs.  The cut on elastic waist also reduces fitting problems.

The detailed directions in the pattern are very specific about how to choose the correct size and length.  And as most people on this thread will tell you, these directions work.  There are also very well written directions about how to sew these pants as well as a couple of suggestions about how to add pockets, if desired. 

These pants work best with fabrics that drape as listed on the pattern envelope.  If you follow the instructions and choose an appropriate fabric, you are very likely to be happy with the first pair you make.  Then you will really be hooked on this pattern.

The booklets give directions for changing the basic pattern -- more pocket options, different waistband treatment, designer details, etc.

[Doris W. in TN]

.... I can't detect from the thread exactly what is better about this pattern than other patterns for pull-up elastic-waist pants.  Is the pattern drafted differently than other pants patterns of similar style?  Is it the help LC offers here and in her booklets?  Does one have to be an expert sewer to get the good results people speak of ? 

I do not wear pull-on pants, or elastic waist pants, not even when elastic is only in the back.   But Louise's pattern and her instructions are superb and I like my OSPs.  They do not make my butt look big, either.   

She has instructions (somewhere,,, maybe in the booklet) on adding darts, and I have to do that.  It also really (!!!) helps, IMO, to buy the elastic she sells for this pattern.   Makes it easier to make the pattern "as is" and it is great elastic.    My tip:   use a really drapey fabric like rayon batik or rayon gabardine.    JMO

[Donna]

Thank you for the replies.  I can't wait to receive the pattern and then go for it !!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I will be back shortly to give an explanation for why the 'One Seams. Although so far you gals have done a great job.

All orders are out and am pulling details together for the August Sewing  Schools and Huntsville. I will return as soon as I get a few more things off my list. It is so fulfilling to cross 'stuff' off a list! ...something I have 3 lists going with thesame info on each lists...you really think you got lots done when you can cross the same junk off in 3 different places!

till later, Louise

[LyndaC]

Why are the Oneseams superior:

*grain line on the side produces slendering line
*instructions detailed so you can sew like a pro - and learn
*elastic waist (no one likes them) actually is flattering! - and you learn the correct technique
*fit is modest
*you will learn to measure your body - including the crotch
*they look RTW
*knowing you have a successful pattern lets you feel free to buy good fabric

[Donna]

Thank you, Lynda C.  Those are some excellent reasons !!

Louise is my favorite guest on the TV sewing shows but the segments are always too short.  Now I will have to get her DVDs as well !

[Susan in Saint John]

I was wondering if these pockets would work on the one seam pants and if so, how you would place them.
 http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/14553/decorative-pockets-or-bound-buttonholes/page/all

[Susan in Miami]

Hi Susan,

Those pockets would look awesome on the one-seams. I would place them on the high hip and maybe put a zipper in too. Lots to think about. Have fun playing and let us see what you come up with.

Susan

[dausmer]

Are the booklets no longer available on the website?

Dru

[LyndaC]

Does Louise need more accolades?  Probably not, but here goes.

Last week end I finished teaching a ckass on her Oneseams.  One lady said she didn't truly believe all I said about these pants, but now she agrees. One student was a 15-year-old girl who had never sewn before.   She left with a perfect pair of pants.   The oldest student was in her 70's, and she also left with a perfect pair.  I have only
EVER had one failure, and that student cut out a size small althought she didn't measure a size small.   She realized her mistake herself.

Thanks, Louise.

[marciae]

Are the booklets no longer available on the website?

Dru

I think they're discontinued

[marciae]

Does Louise need more accolades?  Probably not, but here goes.

Last week end I finished teaching a ckass on her Oneseams.  One lady said she didn't truly believe all I said about these pants, but now she agrees. One student was a 15-year-old girl who had never sewn before.   She left with a perfect pair of pants.   The oldest student was in her 70's, and she also left with a perfect pair.  I have only
EVER had one failure, and that student cut out a size small althought she didn't measure a size small.   She realized her mistake herself.

Thanks, Louise.

And wait until they try the new pant pattern!!

[sammie_s]

Does Louise need more accolades?  Probably not, but here goes.

Last week end I finished teaching a ckass on her Oneseams.  One lady said she didn't truly believe all I said about these pants, but now she agrees. One student was a 15-year-old girl who had never sewn before.   She left with a perfect pair of pants.   The oldest student was in her 70's, and she also left with a perfect pair.  I have only
EVER had one failure, and that student cut out a size small althought she didn't measure a size small.   She realized her mistake herself.

Thanks, Louise.

Cool, isn't it!!!!

[sdBev]

Are the booklets no longer available on the website?

Dru

I think they're discontinued

But I think Louise also said she was looking into re-releasing them in downloadable PDF form. It would be a work because she includes pattern pieces and they must print true to size.  Still I think several of us would love a PDF format.

[Linda Dean]

Lynda C,
Did you attend Louise's workshop in June?  How long have you been teaching Louise's one seams?
I am going to the workshop in August.

[LyndaC]

Good questions.   You made me think.   I have been teaching for over 25 years, but I believe I started spotlighting on Oneseams about 10 years ago.   Louise, correct me if that is wrong.   I saw so many sewists who had quit because they felt they couldn't produce anything that actually fit (due to the decline in the quality of the major patterns).  I decided to try to prove them wrong by teaching them to use better methods.  Who comes to mind when you think of better methods?   Louise. 

Now I have started a new job managing a new branch of a local alterations store, so my teaching will be limited to classes held elsewhere, if I have time at all to do this.  My heart is in teaching, so who knows?

[sdBev]

...  I saw so many sewists who had quit because they felt they couldn't produce anything that actually fit (due to the decline in the quality of the major patterns). ..
Now I have started a new job managing a new branch of a local alterations store, so my teaching will be limited to classes held elsewhere, if I have time at all to do this.  My heart is in teaching, so who knows?

That's the way I remember it too.  We had little time to sew.  Investing money and time into a garment that couldn't be worn was extremely frustrating.  I saw some who would make clothing for babbies, toddlers and children, but most seem to move along to quilting and some horrible art stuff.  (Not all wearable art is horrible, but I did see some really bad projects and chocked while trying to think of something nice to say.)  At the same time we were frustrated with the "one size fits all" mentality which really meant "doesn't fit anyone".  But without the knowledge to fit, sewing lost it's appeal.

So glad to hear that you will be teaching, even if I'm not close enough to take any classes from you.  I enjoy sewing classes just because I get to visit with other sewists.  I make it a point to take at least 2 classes every year at my Bernina dealer.

[Alice in Bama]

"So glad to hear that you will be teaching, even if I'm not close enough to take any classes from you.  I enjoy sewing classes just because I get to visit with other sewists.  I make it a point to take at least 2 classes every year at my Bernina dealer. '

 Dear SDBEV

  I glad to here that you take class from you're Bernina dealer I just bought a BERNINA[ AURORA 430 ] I was so amazed at all the class that my dealer offers and how willing all of her employee's   To help me with any problem I might be having in my sewing .  I also have been taking class One of the reason I chose this dealer was for the support [there another bernina dealer close but just seem like this one home to me] they give you. Right now I am sign up for 5 class this month and I talking a week off to go on a trip down to the gulf of mexico or I be taking more They also have a sit and sew once a month !!!  and one for smocking too.  The friend you  can make in the class can last a lifetime .

[marciae]

Does Louise need more accolades?  Probably not, but here goes.

Last week end I finished teaching a ckass on her Oneseams.  One lady said she didn't truly believe all I said about these pants, but now she agrees. One student was a 15-year-old girl who had never sewn before.   She left with a perfect pair of pants.   The oldest student was in her 70's, and she also left with a perfect pair.  I have only
EVER had one failure, and that student cut out a size small althought she didn't measure a size small.   She realized her mistake herself.

Thanks, Louise.

I just have to chime in.  I've not made OS's for about 4 years.  Well, do to the weight drop I'm wearing OS's from 8-10 yrs ago.  Last night I got out the pattern traced a new one based on the new size chart - all the while thinking - I'm not sure this is going to work - then decided Louise has not failed us yet.  I have them together except for running the elastic and sewing the hem.  I had to try them on first before I did any more work on pants "that may not fit"   WELL, they are GREAT - very slimming - I can see a lot more in my future.  I also got reacquainted with the patch pocket so will put a pocket on the next pair.   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Glad they fit! If you are using the elastic I sell, start at least 8" smaller than your waist.   

You might be even 10" smaller than your waist

Till later, Louise
Sent from my iPhone

[marciae]

Thanks Louise - I used 7in.  I 'sort of' split the difference.  I think the last time I purchased elastic from you I bought 8 or 10 yards.  I figured out how many pairs of pants x the length (I was cutting then) then divided those inches by yards!!   I didn't want any waste.  Now, well I'm going to have some waste!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The bit and pieces of elastic can be zig-zagged together...not overlapped but butted together and sewn. One of my pairs has about 7 or 8 pieces done this way...I was making a bunch of One Seams one Sunday when I still had the store and didn't have to keep a stash of elastic on hand. Well, my former employees would throw the little ends (anything from 4"-6") on my desk. I would put them in my purse...I have no idea why they didn't just throw them away are give them to the last person that purchased elastic...who knows...but they were in a drawer in the sewing room and I didn't have running yardage of the elastic anywhere...I zig-zagged them together...threaded them through the casing and stitched in the channels like normal. Nothing ever happened...they stayed in place, stretched just fine and I forgot over time what pair was the pieces and parts of elastic pants.

One thing I haven't forgotten was the first of 3 hurricanes hit the store (and most of Florida) 6 years ago yesterday. Two more hurricanes followed in Sept. The 5th and the 30th. I closed the store one month later. When ever I see the movie 'You've Got Mail' and see Meg Ryan standing in the empty store, locking it up and placing the sign on the door...that is exactly what I did one late Sunday afternoon.

till later, Louise   

[marciae]

Great info - thanks  you can bet I'll be trying that at some point!  And, congratulations on your weight loss - on another thread you commented you were into Med.  Keep it up!

[marciae]

My first post got lost in space - - here's my new OS's - it's a light weight denim with red crab embroidered on it.

[Linda 75142]

Marciae, the denim OS pants look so good on you!