Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[Liana]

Something almost musical about the words "Forum Decorum" reminded me of this obscure poem (?) of sorts, beloved of crazed fans of Latin:

Motor Bus

What is this that roareth thus ?
Can it be a Motor Bus ?
Yes that smell and hideous hum
Indicat Motorem Bum !
Implet wheresoe'er they ply
Terror me Motoris Bi :
Bo Motore clamitabo
Ne Motore caedar a Bo -
Dative be or Ablative
So tho only let us live :
Whither shall thy victims flee ?
Spare us, Spare us, Motor Be !
Thus I sang ; and still anigh
Came in hordes Motores Bi ,
Et complebat omne forum
Copia Motorum Borum .
How shall wretches live like us
Cincti Bis Motoribus ?
Domine , defende nos
Contra hos Motores Bos !

A D Godley, Reliquiae (1926)

Elona, 

This is just great!  Thank you for posting it!   

It reminded me of some of the Latin "jokes" I've read, like

Caesar adsum jam forte.

There was something about a bus too, but it wasn't this long.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

A quick, quick note...heading to the American Craft Council show in Sarasota today. I think I gave the link in the other chat area...I'll report ove the weekend what eye candy I saw.

I said I would write about the proportions for crop and capris...most of the country doesn't need it at the moment! However...measure from your knee to the floor (mid knee) and divided by thirds either the first third or the second third is your correct porportion for your height and your lower leg length. Example: from knee to floor (flat feet up to about a 1" heal...after that do the measurmemet with the shoes you plan to wear most oftenwith the outfit).

Your measurement is 21" (most everyone will be around this measuremet...but fractions count...you could look like you are standing in a hole or you outgrew the pants). First third would be 7" down and the second third would be 14" down...either is correct.

This is your porportion for longer skirts also.

till later, Louise
   

[Karla]

Glad you brought up knees, Louise.  I am still confused about where to measure when knees are involved:  middle of the kneecap, bottom, top?  Or in back where the leg bends?  I've been winging it for years, and I'd love a definitive answer.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Sorry Karla...I haven't check in to see that you had asked a question...bad Louise...bad Louise You want to measure from the mid knee to the floor and divide into thirds.

I am off to South Florida for a few days...shopping and viewing new things. I'll have my laptop with me so if there is anything really special I'll let you know. Colors, proportions, garment lengths and widths. The South FL  area will have a different look than the rest of the country...we are going to be in the high 70's today. I hope to see some of the new spring things in the stores and boutiques. I'll let you know.

till later, Louise....don't for get the blog.    http://www.fabriccollections.com/whatsnew/whatsnew.html

[menelson55]

I received my One-Seam pattern and a very pretty drapy grey wool from Julie at Timmel Fabrics today -- I read the pattern instructions at lunch and golly, I think I can make these pants this weekend!  Wouldn't that be fun to have something new to wear to work after New Years.  Wish me luck!  I'm hoping this pattern becomes a wardrobe staple.  It's nice to be able to order from Julie too -- she's had lots of experience with this pattern and knows whether the fabric will work or not, which I understand makes all the difference here (of course, when does it not?)

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm here to help with putting you in a size so you can wow them on the day after New Years...only one pair???   Of the 38,000 patterns sold...I swear I have fit 20,000 of them!

Busy working on the new books. till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Hi Louise - checking in today from the Texas hill country - Wimberly TX at my sister's house on the bank of the Blanco River.  Coincidentally, I must share a story of one-seams.   I hadn't planned for really cold weather here but it froze last night.  The sun was shining today     but it was cool in the shade.   I had my one-seam silk charmeuse pjs in mauve with me so I've been wearing them as my pant liner today!!!   Dual duty for trips - pjs and a cozy pant liner under a pair of black RPL one seam pants.    Visited the Becker winery outside Fredericksburg today to take some TX wine back with us.   They have a lovely grenache and a provencal, plus a blend that I bought.

[Ann C]

Menelson55,  These will definitely become a "staple" in your wardrobe!  Ask me how I know!  I've made tons of pairs of these pants and they are definitely the most comfortable (and good looking) pants in my wardrobe and they are so quick to make when you have finessed the fit.  As Louise said, she will help with fit if you have trouble with that part!  Thanks again, Louise, for this pattern!...........and hope you are having a wonderful holiday season! 

[Susan in Saint John]

Does silk dupioni work for one seam pants or is it too stiff?  I will definitely wash it first and might even extreme wash it to make it softer.

Susan in Saint John, NB

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Yes it does, but don't make them to tight around the tummy/hip area. When we sit down we spread. Dupionni has a tendency to shread away from sewn seams that have tension placed on them. If you want to take a really bad measurement (now, after the holiday eating!!) sit down and take your hip and tummy measurement. That number is how much you need to make the circumference of the hip area at a minimum  to help keep the pants from showing tension on the front and back crotch seam.

It is one of the few silk fabrics that doesn't wear all that well because of the weave.

Keep me posted. Webboy is coming over in a few minutes to put a new line of scissors and new iron on the website. I have to look like I know what I am doing and am prepaired!...till later, Louise 

[Martha Domke]

Louise, you sound soooo REAL!!!  I am so impressed with your down-to-earth manner of talking.  I am also another of your fans for the one-seams.  I have made only 5 pair, but am wearing them to death.

[Susan in Saint John]

I've been losing weight so the fit of my one seam pants is a bit of a moving target.  One of the nice things about one seams is that they still fit over a range of weights.  Each time I make a new pair, I measure and make the size that corresponds to my measurements at that weight and point in time.

Because I'm still "fluffy", I was going to use the seated hip measurement as the finished garment measurement.  There is a difference of about 5" between my hip and seated hip measurement so that would give me 5 1/2" of ease when standing and 1/2" of ease when sitting.  Is this reasonable?

However, as Louise pointed out, silk dupioni will not take much stress so in this case I would need to add an inch or so of ease to the seated hip measurement?  I was planning to underlining them with silk organza which will reduce the wrinkling.  I think that underlining would also reduce the stress on the seams and improve the durability of the silk dupioni.  Is that correct?

This makes me think about how to take the "fabric factor" into account.  From reading the pattern instructions and Louise's comments on this list and elsewhere, I think that I should take the fabric factor into acount by increasing or decreasing the ease at the side seam grainline position rather than changing the size of the pattern.  Is that correct?

My thinking is that the pattern is designed for a typical fabric that has just the tiniest bit of give in the crosswise direction. 

1.  If you are using a stretch woven (2% to 5% lycra), then you would take a vertical tuck through the pattern to reduce the standing ease to 2 1/2"-- a 3/8" tuck would reduce the ease by 3". 

2.  For a knit with 25% stretch or so, you would reduce the standing ease to 1" or perhaps 0"--a 1" tuck would reduce the ease by 4".

3.  For "normal" fabric you would not take any tuck

4.  For fabric that has no give in the crosswise grain (e. g. silk dupioni) you would insert 1/2" into the pattern which would give an additional 1" of ease

5.  For fabric that is very thin or shear, you would insert 1" to several inches into the pattern and possibly use the straight leg versions especially if you were making the pants very full.

Because the waistband is cut on, you can make minor adjustments in the crotch length/depth by trying the pants on with the elastic secured around your waist and adjusting the waistline position until it is comfortable.  Alternatively or in addition, you can make the inseams a little narrower or deeper.  You can also sew the crotch seam a little deeper if you need more depth at the back.  For one seam pants, what is the preferred approach?

I would really be interested in know how others adjust their one seam pattern to take the fabric factor into account.  Thanks.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Eek!!! I will respond a bit later...you have many questions that I want to answer for you...but there are 2 pages of lists to get done this morning...I'll be back to you on all points. Louise.......................

[Elona]

One thing I have learned about these pants is that they make utterly superb men's microfleece or flannel pants!  My guys love the narrow-legged version, and it's so quick to do.  I put the elastic where the guys actually wear their waistband, which is about 3" below the navel.  The crotch depth is determined by letting the guy put the top of the tape measure where he actually likes the top of the inseam to be, and I add no ease there.  This makes the rise pretty darned short, but it gives them much greater freedom of movement than they have with most men's patterns, where the crotch is somewhere down around the knees.

[New Zealand girl]

Elona, I would not have thought of that, but what an excellent idea.

At home, at one time, you could buy mens 'short-rise' pants, this accounted for the men who did wear their pants somewhere
around where you are speaking of, my father did, my husband does, my grandsons, one of whom is just 14, and even as a skinny
10 year old, you could already see that was where he would be wearing his pants, both my sons wear there pants there too.

Now why on earth, do they not make mens short-rise pants.  If you do a google search, it brings up mostly adult material sites!

With such a common problem you truly would think that patterns would be designed for this.

I have some fleece, I am going to try these out for my grandson.

Fran

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I will try to answer you questions you have about the One-Seam Pants©.

I've been losing weight so the fit of my one seam pants is a bit of a moving target.  One of the nice things about one seams is that they still fit over a range of weights.  Each time I make a new pair, I measure and make the size that corresponds to my measurements at that weight and point in time.

The One-Seam Pants© usually can fit you for about 20-25 pounds…(great for the holiday season also).

Because I'm still "fluffy", I was going to use the seated hip measurement as the finished garment measurement.  There is a difference of about 5" between my hip and seated hip measurement so that would give me 5 1/2" of ease when standing and 1/2" of ease when sitting.  Is this reasonable?

This sounds like a little too much ease. I don’t think you will want that much especially with you loosing weight. I usually say the ‘fluffy’ gal need to have about 4” of ease and the ‘hard bodies’ (no mater if they are a size 4 or 18…as long as they are solid)can get away with about 3½” of ease.

However, as Louise pointed out, silk dupioni will not take much stress so in this case I would need to add an inch or so of ease to the seated hip measurement?  I was planning to underlining them with silk organza which will reduce the wrinkling.  I think that underlining would also reduce the stress on the seams and improve the durability of the silk dupioni.  Is that correct?

I would not add any more ease, but the underlining in silk organza (make sure it is silk and not poly) it a great idea. Use 2mm stitch length, 100% cotton thread and a number 11 quilting needle…your silk sewing of the organza and dupioni will look great. Stitch the dupoini at 2.5mm

This makes me think about how to take the "fabric factor" into account.  From reading the pattern instructions and Louise's comments on this list and elsewhere, I think that I should take the fabric factor into acount by increasing or decreasing the ease at the side seam grainline position rather than changing the size of the pattern.  Is that correct?

Yes, and No…how’s that for a answer! Removing and adding at the side grain line can and can’t work…read why.  Yes, when you measure you depth of crotch from front to back and the measurement has stayed the same as when you were higher in weight, you can just take the circumference in along the grainline from the top raw edge of the waist casing to the raw hem.  No, if you have found your depth of crotch has changed…¾” or more, you will need to start from a new size…this is a good thing!

My thinking is that the pattern is designed for a typical fabric that has just the tiniest bit of give in the crosswise direction.

I designed the pattern to work with all fabrics with just about 3½” – 4” of ease…you really don’t need to go into adding and taking away depending on the type of fabric. I will go through each number and give the answers to each.

1.  If you are using a stretch woven (2% to 5% lycra), then you would take a vertical tuck through the pattern to reduce the standing ease to 2 1/2"-- a 3/8" tuck would reduce the ease by 3".

 
No, Lycra and spandex in fabric is supposed to keep the garment from becoming knee and rump sprung. Not to have the garment fit closer with less ease. My One-Seam Pants© were designed to look like straight leg trouser pants and tapered pants, but not skin tight…and that is what the 2½”-2⅜” will give you and there will be horizontal wrinkles starting to form across the body.

2.  For a knit with 25% stretch or so, you would reduce the standing ease to 1" or perhaps 0"--a 1" tuck would reduce the ease by 4".

You will not want to remove that amount of ease…the pants are supposed to hang from the widest portion of the body. Pretend the stretch is not there. It always hangs on the body better.

3.  For "normal" fabric you would not take any tuck.

Back to just the 3½” to 4” of ease.

4.  For fabric that has no give in the crosswise grain (e. g. silk dupioni) you would insert 1/2" into the pattern which would give an additional 1" of ease

   
The 4” would be good if ‘fluffy’ and should be fine.

5.  For fabric that is very thin or shear, you would insert 1" to several inches into the pattern and possibly use the straight leg versions especially if you were making the pants very full.

For thin and sheer fabric, you really do want to use the straight leg version and you can add any amount of fabric you want to the side grain line….but remember you are also adding it to the waist casing. You might want to take pleats at several locations around the waist casing to remove it and help the insertion of the elastic when the time comes.

Because the waistband is cut on, you can make minor adjustments in the crotch length/depth by trying the pants on with the elastic secured around your waist and adjusting the waistline position until it is comfortable.

Just remember, an additional ¼” added or subtracted completely across the top of the raw casing from the center front to the center back can really drop (or pull up the crotch) a total of ½”…this can make the pants look like you might need ‘Depends’ ( if to low) or singing soprano (if the crotch is to high).

Alternatively or in addition, you can make the inseams a little narrower or deeper.  You can also sew the crotch seam a little deeper if you need more depth at the back.  For one seam pants, what is the preferred approach?

You can play with ‘fire’  if you start to just stitch deeper or narrower or deeper in the back…all of this stitching is changing the crotch curve.  Once you have the originally fit and you weight is stable, just stitch the crotch seam and then serge it to finish the seam.

I would really be interested in know how others adjust their one seam pattern to take the fabric factor into account.

There are a few fabrics that like to grow…some via width, but most in the length. Slinky and soft rayons come to mind. The use of clear elsetic in the crotch area will keep the croth where it belongs.

------------------

Louise, you sound soooo REAL!!!  I am so impressed with your down-to-earth manner of talking.  I am also another of your fans for the one-seams.  I have made only 5 pair, but am wearing them to death.

Thanks Martha, I try to help where I can. Keep making and wearing your pants to death…”you can never have too many One-Seam Pants©”
________________________

One thing I have learned about these pants is that they make utterly superb men's microfleece or flannel pants! 

 
Elona, I know quite a few women make these pants for their husbands and sons…just never showing them the evenlope cover.
 
Hope this answers some of your questions....till later, Lousie

[Susan in Saint John]

Thank you Louise for answering all my questions.  It looks like I was making it more difficult than it needed to be--just go with 4" of ease.

For underlining silk dupioni, I would cut the silk organza and the dupioni identically, hand baste the 2 layers together within the seam allowance, along the hemline and casing fold line, and then treat it as a single layer to construct the pants.  I might or might not trim the organza out of the waist casing and the hem.  I would stitch the pants together with a 2.5 mm stitch length.  One of my favourite things about underlining is that you have something to stitch the hem to and it's completely invisible.

I am facing making some very casual pants for my son because he has a long rise--RTW pulls down indecently at the back when he bends over.  I was considering using one seams and several of the recent posts have confirmed that it's a reasonable thing to do.  Thank you.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Thank you Louise for answering all my questions.  It looks like I was making it more difficult than it needed to be--just go with 4" of ease.

You got it!...'Fluffy'=4"... and 'Solid body'=3 1/2"

For underlining silk dupioni, I would cut the silk organza and the dupioni identically,

There is another way to underline...it takes a little longer, but really looks beautiful on the inside, you don't need a serger except for a few areas, the seam is flat, and the edge of the fabric won't show through to the right side of the fashion fabric. Yes, the dupioni and the silk organza are cut the same size. With right sides together (even though there really is no right or wrong side to either fabric...but make sure you have a left and right leg). Pin at about 1" perpendicular to the stitching line. This is the HINT here...you always want to take the pick of the pin where your stitching line is, BUT this stitching line is NOT at 5/8"...when you are sewing the organza to the dupioni  for the underlining you will be stitching at a scant 1/4"  along the vertical seams only...down the vertical back crotch seam, around the back crotch curve, turn and continue stitching down the inseam to the hem. Do the same type of stitching along the front croth, inseam.

Over a Point Presser (my very favorite piece of pressing equipment), press the little 1/4" seam open from the wrong side, all the way from the top raw edge to the hem. Including the crotch curve around the to point (it will help you turn the fabric to the right side in the next step). Now turn the pant fabric to the right side and working with the silk organza side facing you and the dupioni side on the ironing board, press the edge flat. The top and bottom is left open for the 'turn of the cloth'.

Now you can sew the pants...inseams first at a scant 3/8" (1/4" +  3/8"= 5/8" seam). Press the seam open over the Point Presser and continue the way you normally stitch with one leg down inside the other and stitch the crotch ...through the curve use a locking stitch...Press the center front crotch seam and center back crotch seam open, but don't press the crotch seam at all. This way the little seam will stand straight up between your legs when worn.

Machine baste about 2 1/4" away from the top raw edge through both layers...this is the top fold of the waist casing. You can cut the silk organza away to about 1/4" from this stitching line. Serge around to raw top edge of the casing. Continue to stitch the waist casing with the Stretch Rite Sport Elastic according to the pattern instrctions.

The Hem...don't baste sitich like you did at the top...you will have to deal with the weight of the fabric...even though it is very light it still has the 'turn of the cloth'. With the pants wrong side out, and the hem over a Sleeve Board, press the hem into position. You will see the organza peek over the raw hem edge press the hem fold. Turn the hem back down and cut the Organza out of the hem area along the inseam stitching line carefully up to pressed fold line in the organza. Serge around the dupioni raw edge. And fold back into position and pin.   

One of my favourite things about underlining is that you have something to stitch the hem to and it's completely invisible.

Yes, make sure your hand stitching is only through the serged hem and of the garment and the organza...no stitches will show on the right side of the garment. !00% Silk Thread doesn't not press an imprint on your fabrics. Run your thread thru bee's wax...you will see it untwirl and then pull the thread under your iorn...the bee's wax melts into the thread and it will untwirl further. You will be ble to sew miles and miles  and your thread will not knot.

I am facing making some very casual pants for my son because he has a long rise--RTW pulls down indecently at the back when he bends over.  I was considering using one seams and several of the recent posts have confirmed that it's a reasonable thing to do

That is why my draft does not go down the center back...the crotch 'scoop'....so many other patterns are way to shallow in this area...might not be a pretty sight!

bunches to do today...till later, Lousie

[Ressy]

I've had a successful pair of one seam pants right out of the box!  Rather amazing for me.

I actually used the pattern to make a pair of sweat pants.  The pattern I was using for a sweat suit used one seam pants but the pattern was too small for me.  I decided to substitute Louise's pants pattern and based on the great reputation of the pattern,  cut right into the fabric....not like there is a shortage of fabric in this dungeon anyway...<Grin>

They are very comfortable and fit very nicely.   I do realize these are sweat pants and I'm off to get the books so I can learn about all the other options for these pants. 

I've got some nice tencel that is complaining about sitting on the shelf next to the denim's.....I start with that!  That will teach fabric to fuss about shelf positions....<grin>

Ressy

[marciae]

Louise - your instructions and comments are just great.  I really appreciate the time you take so all can understand your patterns.  I've used the one seams for 'years' - started with the burda pattern and 'graduated' to your pattern.   At the moment I'm overweight for my pattern - but rather than adjust the pattern I need to adjust me!!

[Susan in Saint John]

There is another way to underline...it takes a little longer, but really looks beautiful on the inside, you don't need a serger except for a few areas, the seam is flat, and the edge of the fabric won't show through to the right side of the fashion fabric. Yes, the dupioni and the silk organza are cut the same size. With right sides together (even though there really is no right or wrong side to either fabric...but make sure you have a left and right leg). Pin at about 1" perpendicular to the stitching line. This is the HINT here...you always want to take the pick of the pin where your stitching line is, BUT this stitching line is NOT at 5/8"...when you are sewing the organza to the dupioni  for the underlining you will be stitching at a scant 1/4"  along the vertical seams only...down the vertical back crotch seam, around the back crotch curve, turn and continue stitching down the inseam to the hem. Do the same type of stitching along the front croth, inseam. 

There were directions for this in Threads years ago and I've done it several times.  It really does finish the insides nicely.  Thank you for reminding me of it.

[bookish]

Add me to the list of One Seam lovers.  I have a question about the booklets... should you buy #1 first and then #2?  Or is there no particular order?  I'd love to get both, but um, yes, well, I'm trying to be just a bit frugal  .  Thanks for all your help.

[Terri K]

Connie, don't know which way to advise you.   It's a very individual thing.    Go to the Cutting Line Designs website and take a look at the booklet contents -  Just run the arrow (cursor) over the booklet, left click and it brings up a larger version of the booklet and gives the content. Also the patterns work the same way...gives the measurements and notions needed to make it easier to sew.

I like all the Eskandar and other designer variations in Booklet II ; but Booklet I is full of designer knock-offs as well and has all the finishes for crop pants and some neat pockets so I ended up with both ...  and you can always e-mail Louise with questions.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Sorry I have been quiet...been pulling down 16 hour days trying to get everything done including a new article that had to go out today to Threads. Trying to finish the 2 new booklets and the totally new idea I came up with while writing the booklets (that is the new article proposal)....so we will see.

I haven't forgotten about the Eskandar collar Terri asked about in the Cutting Line Design chat area. I hope tomorrow night after another day of list making and crossing stuff off lists (my favorite part)...eek.... but I add new stuff now onto page 2 of lists.

I also am cutting all the samples that are used fo the Sewing Expos this spring. I now am adding Puyallup to the mix. They have never had teachers teach machine 'hands on' classes. Usually they were only representatives (teachers) from the different sewing machine Companies. I feel very honored I am only 1 of 4 that were asked out of all the teachers in Puyallup.

If all goes well, ya right...I need to make a pair of black  with a very small cream dot Slinky pair of One-Seam Pants©. The IPCA will present the fashion show at the Las Vegas International Textile show in March and I have 3 different outfits to present. So between Sandy and I we have to get them finished. I have 2 sets of fabrics from vendors and am still waiting on a third set. The one vender I always look forward to usually sends me Armani fabric...the bad part is, the garments have to be made in Las Vegas model sizes ...well, more work still to do...till later, Louise
.

Oops...PS, yes just run your arrow over the booklets, patterns and notions to get a larger view and much more indepth about  that item. 

[bookish]

Thanks Terri and Louise.  Glad to know there's no particular order... off to order number 2 I think.  Or wait, there's all those pockets.  What fun.

[Carolyn]

Hi Louise!

There has been much discussion on another topic about confusing pattern instructions from another company and the lack of assistance in clarifying what to do.  I wanted to thank you for your diligence in answering every single question.  You must be the busiest woman on earth.  I have enjoyed your patterns, books, and classes for some time now.  I'm sure I've made 10 - 15 one - seam pants over the last couple of years, often usuing suggestions from your books.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us, but especially your joy of sewing.

See you in Atlanta!

Carolyn

[New Zealand girl]

Louise or Terri or anyone, I was looking again at that Eskander coat, would you just make the ABO longer, the eskander
coat seems to be rather fuller through the body, and at the armhole, although I know it too has dropped shoulders, but
I was interested in working with this style, as it might be a great throw on coat here in the soggy, truly soggy northwest.

Fran

[Terri K]

Hi Fran.   I had asked Louise that question earlier in the Cutting Line Designs topic.  That's the one she responded to with the proportion information.   If you look at the ABO jacket, it is "A"ed towards the hem.   I believe she responded just extend that line straight down to what you want your length to be and your hem circumference will be larger of course.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I will be back in a bit...hit a snag in the house....trying to get eveything done before eye surgery tomorrow morning...second eye. I'll answer all here and in CLD chat. I hate when I know I'm doing something right and it is the equipment...it has just ...been a day!!!!! later louise

[New Zealand girl]

I don't know why I asked the question about the ABO on this thread, maybe I didn't look - but I do read your
instructions Louise.

And thanks Terri for the answer.

Fran

[nanners]

Louise goodluck on your surgery!

I am making my first One SeamPants. I am using an alova? I thinkfromJoanns. I really have no waist and am overweight.I am doing the wideleg. My hips are about the same size as my gut, I dont have a flat butt, and my legs are a bit smaller but not chicken legs LOL. I started out using the XL and went to the LG. got toput in the elastic band next. Even thoughI  wanted the wide leg it looks like there is way too much material from just above the knee down to the floor. I am sure it will hang better once the waistband is in. The rest seems to fit fine right now and the fabric has a bit of stretch so thats good. So do you think I should make the lower legs smaller? I think I will do the other view with the smallerleg next time to seehow that looks. Thanks for any insight.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Nothing like being up at the crack of dawn...but I figure I better answer now...I had such a rotten headache after the last surgery. So here goes.....The straight leg really depends on how tall you are? Sometimes the LG and XL size, if you are shorter might not be the most flattering. Also, if you have 'not quite chicken legs'...the tapered might also be better...the tapered leg is not a leggin' and in the large or XL size the legs get wider along with the proportion to the pattern.

If you could give me your hip measurement...no ease, over what ever is the fullest part of your hip.

A tight crotch measurement...no ease

and you height.....and I will be better able to put you in a size...

and yes, the pants really look awful until you get the elastic in them...they can also look awful until the elastic has been stitched in the rows...so the ease is equal completely around the body.

By the way, what is 'alova' ? This type of fabric can have something to do with the fit as well.

Well, I'm off and will be back much later, Louise



 

[Betty F]

Re: Elephant Ear Pockets

I am making my first pair of OneSeam Pants and I cannot figure out instruction #7 and #8 for the elephant ear pockets. 

#6 says to turn the pocket to the right side, and press the edges, etc.  No problem with that.

#7 says to edge-stitch along the side of the V, on the front side through all layers.  No problem until I get to the top of the waistband area:
       

• Problem:  the picture indicates the edgestitching goes to the top of the band.  Is the seam allowance on the band part of the V turned under at this point as for the pocket itself?  The fabric naturally wants to fold under - or, does the edgestitching stop at the waistline?  The answer seems necessary for the next step to work properly.

#8 says to sew the band together with a 1/8" seam allowance, matching the stitching line of the pocket. If the band is not edgestitched, it is possible to line up the stitching with the pocket seam.  So, that is what I did.

The second part of #8 says "Overlap the edges about 1/2 inch and straight-stitch." 

• Problem:I can't figure out what to overlap here, and whether the stitching is just in the band, or continues down partway into the pocket.
  

I know there are thousands of these pants out there so I am hoping someone can help me work this out.  Probably I am making some simple reading error.

Thanks,  Betty

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am making my first pair of OneSeam Pants and I cannot figure out instruction #7 and #8 for the elephant ear pockets. 

#6 says to turn the pocket to the right side, and press the edges, etc.  No problem with that.

#7 says to edge-stitch along the side of the V, on the front side through all layers.  No problem until I get to the top of the waistband area:
       
·   Problem:  the picture indicates the edgestitching goes to the top of the band.  Is the seam allowance on the band part of the V turned under at this point as for the pocket itself?  The fabric naturally wants to fold under - or, does the edgestitching stop at the waistline?  The answer seems necessary for the next step to work properly.

YOU CAN CONTINUE TO FOLD THE WAIST CASING ABOVE THE POCKET POUCH UNDER (ABOUT ¼”) ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP OF THE RAW WAIST CASING. LAY THE FRONT FOLDED WAIST CASING OVER THE BACK RAW EDGE WAIST CASING AND STITCH THROUGH ALL LAYERS. BUT FIRST, FROM THE WRONG SIDE MATCH THE UPPER AND UNDER RAW EDGES OF THE WAIST CASING. YOU WILL NEVER SEE THE ROW OF STITCHING IT WILL BE IN THE GATHERS ON THE WASIT CASING AFTER THE ELASTIC IN INSERTED.

#8 says to sew the band together with a 1/8" seam allowance, matching the stitching line of the pocket. If the band is not edgestitched, it is possible to line up the stitching with the pocket seam.  So, that is what I did.

YOU CAN NOW OMIT THIS STEP

The second part of #8 says "Overlap the edges about 1/2 inch and straight-stitch." 
·   Problem: I can't figure out what to overlap here, and whether the stitching is just in the band, or continues down partway into the pocket.

THE ABOVE EXPLINATION WILL OMIT ALL YOU WOULD HAVE TO DO.

I know there are thousands of these pants out there so I am hoping someone can help me work this out.  Probably I am making some simple reading error.

I HAVE JUST RECEIVED ANOTHER 2000 PATTERNS…THIS MAKES 40,000 IN PRINT. I HAVE CLEARED UP THIS STEP, IT HAS BEEN CONFUSING TO OTHERS ALSO. SORRY FOR THE MISS LEAD. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER HELP.

I AM STILL DIGGING OUT FROM THE RETREAT THIS PAST WEEKEND. IT WAS WONDERFUL. THIS GROUP HAS FILLED NEXT JANUARY'S RETREAT CLASS.  BACK TO SPECIAL ORDERS

TILL LATER, LOUISE...sorry for the cap lock left on...I started to type, not looking up and I was way to deep into the body of the copy to go back and change. L

[marciae]

Louise - will you please post pictures on your www and also give us some info on the retreat on the cutting lines thread when you have a minute - well, actually, doubt you'll have any spare minutes - so when it's convienient!  And Next year is filled???  I did so want to go this year, just couldn't work it out.