Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[sdBev]

..  A better solution for the waistband for both those SW pants is to use 1" non-roll elastic (see photo) .   For the length, I  cut mine an inch less than recommended for my size for the stretch part PLUS another 8" for across the flat front portion.   I then insert the elastic in the casing, stitching it down at each end, leaving that part of the elastic unstretched inside the casing across the flat front because it stabilizes and keeps the front of the waistband from creasing unattractively.      ..

Thanks for the hint.  This is so much better than trying to stabilize a portion of the waistband!!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The Stretch Rite Sport Elastic that I have is 1 1/2" wide...it is not able to be cut to make a narrower elastic. I know the company makes narrower...I don't carry it. JoAnns now is private labeling their elastic and no where on the box does it say where it comes from so their elastic that looks like Stretch Rite Sport Elastic might not be. I know there are different companies that make elastic that look similar, but they are of a different quality and don't hold up as long in the garment. Not knowing the original company can be difficult.

But, on the wall are blister packages that has the Stretch Rite  brand name on the pkg and then you can look for the width you would like for the garment you are making. the down side is they only come in about 1 yard lengths.

got to run...teaching in a while Today the class is all making the tabbard from OTM. Many Miters in their future. till later, Louise

[marciae]

Thanks Louise - yours is what I have.

[sdBev]

I just finished rereading this topic, from the beginning.   There are so many wonderful hints from so many contributors. Especially thank Louise and TerryK, but also everyone that asked or answered along the way! 

[Terri K]

Some news    For those signed up for her mailings, Louise sent out some great information on adjusting the ease in her One-Seam pants pattern.   After comparing the adjustments in the new chart to what I've been doing,  those alterations corresponding to my hip measurement in the table are the same I've been making, because I've always liked a closer fit in the hip area.      If you aren't on her mailing list you should sign up to get the latest news.     Here's what she said in today's announcement:

Many of you have requested a chart to know exactly how much ease is needed for a closer fit around the hips in your One-Seam Pant© and how to make the simple alteration to your pattern. You will see in the chart, the smaller sizes in both the tapered and straight leg styles have 3” of ease and the additional sizes have 3½” of ease. I have also placed in the ‘Tapered Leg’ chart how to add to the pattern if you are +50” in the hip circumference.

Pants, for the past few seasons are slimmer around the hip area. The fitting and alteration chart will help you arrive at your perfect fit. The original chart on the tapered and straight leg tissue patterns and the instruction sheet are for a fuller circumference around the hip area. Now you have a wider range of ease circumference to choose from for your One-Seam Pant©.

If you would like your One-Seam Pant© to have a snugger fit, or if you fall between two sizes, here is the link for the quick alteration for both the straight leg and tapered leg styles. You may print the chart and save it in your pattern envelope for future reference.

http://fabriccollections.com/whatsnew/One_Seam.html

The link above is the direct link to the chart, I have place additional links on the ‘What’s New’ page and on the ‘One Seam Pant©’ ordering page.

Happy ‘First Day of Spring’...it’s time to think of One-Seam Pant© sewing for the upcoming months! Sincerely, Louise Cutting

[Elona]

Thank you, Terri.  That's really useful information from Louise.

[Patti B]

Once again, Louise is so generous with her knowledge. Her willingness to help us sewists is amazing!

[sdBev]

I notice that she's recommending 3" ease and (3.5"  for goddess sizes ladies).  Do you feel that's a good amount for a woven non-stretch pant? Or is that just a good amount for the one-seams?

[Ann C]

Received my newsletter and have printed it out and put in my Cutting Line Designs notebook filed under One Seam Pants.  I'll do my comparison sometime next week when I'll be doing yet another pair of one seams. 

DON'T - I repeat - DON'T buy the generic sports elastic sold under Joann's brand.  Cheap stuff - doesn't stretch like the "real" thing!  Ask me how I know.  Hours spent "unsewing" it in order to use the real stuff by Stretch Rite!!!

[Ann C]

I just finished rereading this topic, from the beginning.   There are so many wonderful hints from so many contributors. Especially thank Louise and TerryK, but also everyone that asked or answered along the way! 

I have a large notebook of stuff printed out from the old Sewing World Commons on the One Seams!  Haven't reread it in years!  Probably should.

[dausmer]

Where do we sign up for the newsletter, I don't see a link on her page. Does anyone have the original pages saved from Sewing World, if so can I get a copy.

Dru

[Terri K]

The link to sign up for the newsletter is on the home page here http://www.fabriccollections.com/ right below the "What's New!!".    I copied the chart to my Open Office and deleted everything but the measurements that apply to me and my sisters & friends that I occasionally sew these for, then printed to put up on the sewing room bulletin board.  

Today I'm going to cut out and sew up a pair in the tapered leg style using a stretch cotton faille that isn't as drapey as the typical fabrics I use for these pants.    Sandy was wearing the tapered leg style with the ABO jacket in this photo, and also the day before with a High Five Jacket.

[Terri K]

I finished a casual tapered pair today in a stretch cotton faille that isn't drapey at all.    I made some additional alterations to those on the chart because I always go smaller with a stretchy fabric, and I could have gone even smaller with this fabric.    More on my blog.

[Fran G]

Love the color, Terri..such a great basic neutral.  I have heard of faille, but never "stretch cotton faille." Love the blouse and your belt, too!

[Terri K]

Thank you Fran.   This was a stretch fabric from the Vera Lavender collection sold by Fabric.com.     The hand was a total mystery when I ordered some.    Also wanted to let you all know that Louise is so good about answering e-mail questions about her patterns when you run into problems.   I sent her a couple of photos of what my pants looked like, my measurements and the type of fabric.    She's awfully busy but took the time to respond.    

The blouse is a Marni top from the Neiman Marcus outlet.    It's funny that I read all these comments about "dropped shoulders" usually in a negative way, but Marni, Celine, Piazza Sempione, and so many of the hot, high end (and expensive) designs in coats, jackets and tops made in Italy all have dropped shoulders.  Marni's orientation is toward young women.    I was surprised to find a small collection of it at the NM Last Call, but it had just been put out.   This is why we sew -- the retail price of that blouse was $590. 

[gaylee1949]

I just recently bought the one-seam pants pattern, and I have a question.  I noticed on the site that there are 2 separate bookletof tips, etc., and both are, I believe, $21.  That's another $42 for a pair of pants!  Is it necessary, do you think, to order one or both?  I don't begrudge anyone the right to make a living, but holy cow!  That's a LOT of money for me.  Thx for your advice.

Gail D.

[marciae]

You don't need the books to make a pair os OS's.  The books give you more options, tips, add on's etc.  For those of us that want to make changes to the original pattern the books are great.  Why reinvent the wheel??

[Terri K]

The pattern contains both the straight leg and the tapered style and detailed how-to's for getting your custom fit in both styles.    It includes full instructions plus patterns & how-to's for several neat pockets, and how-to's for different lengths - cropped, etc.    The booklets contained how-to's for many designer changes from RTW that Louise has seen, but are OOP now anyway.

[Janis]

Lovely, Terri.  I saw the outfit on your flicker last night (yes, I do stalk your flicker ).  I would have never thought to use that kind of fabric on a one seam pant, but it works perfectly.  

BTW, could you tell us what the blouse fabric is?  It looks like a lined silk sheer?

[Terri K]

Janis,   the fabric is a cotton voile and isn't lined at all.    The sleeve "cuffs" are self lined.    I added some photos to Flickr of the blouse that I took while snoop shopping before I decided to buy it       I've added them to a set called snoop shopping.

[sdBev]

I just recently bought the one-seam pants pattern, and I have a question.  I noticed on the site that there are 2 separate bookletof tips, etc., and both are, I believe, $21.  That's another $42 for a pair of pants!  Is it necessary, do you think, to order one or both?  I don't begrudge anyone the right to make a living, but holy cow!  That's a LOT of money for me.  Thx for your advice.

Gail D.

You don't need either book.  Follow the instructions with the pattern and you'll produce wonderful fitting pants in 2 distinctive styles.  If you get tired of the same look, the books walk you through multiple changes. Each change equivalent to buying a new pattern.  Myself, and I did purchase both books, I mostly change pocket styles and waistbands.  In the books, Louise will have you cutting apart and rearranging the entire pattern.  They are very creative exercises.  I don't need quite that much, I just love to read whatever Louse writes.

By all means do sign up for her "free" newsletter.  In the last newsletter she explained how to adjust the one-seams to duplicate the current fashion pants ease.  I printed the whole chart and filed it with my pattern.

[sdBev]

Regarding information on making the One-Seam pants, Louise's pattern is her own design with that name copyrighted and the pattern contains exhaustive fitting information plus different leg widths and pockets.   She also has published two booklets that show how to change these and add things to knock-off many designer styles.    There isn't anything that was posted on SW, unless it was individual fitting advice and suggestions, that isn't contained in either the pattern or those booklets.

Ah thanks for this advice.  I'm starting on my first pair of Louise Cutting's One Seams.  I had/have Sandra Betzina's version which I loved and made many changes to.  It was truly a versatile pattern.  I loved the wide legs to make summer shorts.  Imagine a hot summer day when you perspire in the shade.  1 hour later you can have cool shorts.  The extra fabric at the legs encourages air circulation and helps with the cooling. 

I was much distressed last fall to realize that all my patterns, including the Sandra B all fit poorly in the rear crotch.  I'd had/have Louise's One Seams but since I could do so much with the very similar SandraB version, I didn't want to take time to fit a new but similar pattern.  Now, after a nearly 9 month struggle with pant fitting, I would very much like to have this simple pattern to use whenever desired.  I decided to fit the OneSeams and satisfy my curiosity about them.  I spent the last hour reading the pattern instructions and the 2 booklets Terri described above.  I have 2 fitting problems.  I have a tilted waist and I need more room in the rear crotch extension.  According to one of the books, Louise has already drafted the pattern to accommodate the tilted waist; and I'm looking at the rear crotch and thinking "that's a good deal of room".  So for once I'm going to follow the designer's recommendation and make the first pair without making any changes to the pattern.  I'm using a heavy drapey woven.  I'd really like a lighter weight fabric for summer, but I think this is an ideal fabric for the first pair.  I haven't given the fabric a burn test and it's one of those fabrics that have been marinating for years.  So I'm not sure when or where it was purchased either. 

I'm going to use the tapered pants pattern, but I've also traced the straight leg. Just because I know how valuable Sandra B's pattern was to me in the past.  I can't imagine this one would be any less, especially since I have the booklets with all Louise's tweaks.   As always, I'll keep you posted.  (No update to my blog on these, so don't waste your time there.)

[marciae]

Bev - I'm sooooo glad you're going to do the pants per the pattern!  I think you'll be plesantly surprised!  I made a pair of the 'regular' legs once and they were just too much width, fabric, etc.  The tapered pattern works quite well for me.  I've not made any OS's in over a year now - I need to make my pattern a bit smaller - I can tell by the way my current OS's fit in the back!!   I had a wardrobe full of OS's when I was working!  Good luck.  Anxious to see the finished pair!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm here if you need me...I've been having issues with just about everything electric for the past few days. Get my laptop back...webboy cleared everything off on it and it is speedy...then, the internet keeps saying I'm not connected...or very low strength...then back to high...so I keep switching back and forth between my AT&T air card I use when I travel and getting back on the cable internet...Was here working at 5am this morning and the TV in the office had 'user is not acceptable for this device!' Gee, I was acceptable everywhere else in the house for the cable company....well, after crawling around pulling plugs while talking to a nice lady at the cable company...ended up as no help and didn't fix the problem...I guess because we had a lovely conversation plus with me grunting and pulling furniture away from wall plugs as she could here, she forced a service call through and the 2 young men just left after they tried everything I did 10 hours ago...I now have a new cable box...long story...but every time I tried to write an e-mail or post here...the internet would loose it connection and I would have to start over from scratch....so eventually 'tomo .......like right now...off and then back on!!!???

Anyway, make sure you copy the closer fit measuring chart for both the tapered and straight leg pant version from the website its on the 'whats new' page, and the One Seam pant page...I'm not trusting my luck to go and get the link...I fear I would be blown off again.

Many are wanting a closer fit in both styles...so this way you can have the more traditional looser fit and a closer body (but not tight to the body) fit. The original fit had about 4"-6" depending your your hip measurement and the closer fit now has 3 1/2" for the size ranges in both styles.

I am having webboy get the rest of the years stuff up on the schedule page...along with current links...granted, I have to fit into his schedule. He is the IT guy at Universal Studios here in 'O' town...and with the new Harry Potter area about to open...he is practically living  in the castle and flying on brooms!

Yes, Bev, try the pants like they come out of the envelope...if you place a ruler perpendicular to the grainline at the top of the pants, you will see the waist dip down in the front. Make sure you give your self a tight crotch measurement this will remove the excess fabric, so the crotch fits high in between your legs.

To make sure you can still tweak the fit...when you fold over the casing, baste the top and the bottom lines for the elastic to slide through. I am telling students to make the elastic at least 7" smaller than their waist, instead of the original 5"...it holds the pants in place nicely but doesn't bind at your waist and you are still able to get them up and down on a hot summers day easily.

With basting the stitching lines and inserting the elastic through, try them on...I will let you know going in...the pants  will not look their best...just the opposite...because the other 2 rows of stitching spacing the elastic even has not been stitched yet...but, this way, you can see if you need to 'dip' the front down more. You probably will not need more in the back because of the way I drafted them.  I always ask ladies not to 'bring their problems or changes they have to make to other patterns over to this one because everything in the draft is totally different and about 95% of the fitting problems have been worked out before you ever get to the pattern. Don't' put the pockets in the first pair...it is time is to get the fit right. The elephant ear pocket in the pattern is a very, very delicate pocket...an exterior pocket is much better if one needs it at all. I don't put pockets in myself...I already have bulk there...don't need two more layers added

Well, I better not push my luck and sign off. till later, Louise

[Alice in Bama]

Bev - I'm sooooo glad you're going to do the pants per the pattern!  I think you'll be plesantly surprised!  I made a pair of the 'regular' legs once and they were just too much width, fabric, etc.  The tapered pattern works quite well for me.  I've not made any OS's in over a year now - I need to make my pattern a bit smaller - I can tell by the way my current OS's fit in the back!!  I had a wardrobe full of OS's when I was working!  Good luck.  Anxious to see the finished pair!

 
i love them both SDBev Just depends on the mood I am in on witch one I make and sometimes the fabric tells me witch pattern to use  

I think everybody type looks good in them even the  younger crowd .  I stand by my motto I make them quicker than washing and drying a dirty pair

[sammie_s]

Have  a new convert for the OS pants.  Friend called me on Wed with so much frustration in her voice.  She was trying to get a good fit in pants as she has gained some weight due to med changes.  Her old TNT pattern just wasn't cutting it and she was having difficulty with alterations. 

I reminded her about the OS asking if she had tried her pattern?  She said "no" as before the TNT was working so she had never tried to fit it to herself.  I said, 'I'll come over tomorrow morning and we'll work on it.'  I arrived, took her measurements, and we traced a size SM with a crotch adjustment as explained in the instructions.  I cut her pants while she got her machine ready with thread, etc.  she sewed them, made a casing for the elastic and threaded it though.  Tried them on--almost perfect!  We did decide to tilt the front waist down about .5".  After making that change, she said it was perfect, and they felt great!  She was SOOOO HAPPY.  (I arrived around 10 a.m. and was headed home before 2 p.m. plus we had sandwiches for lunch.) 

I think this is her new TNT.  And she realized that when the weight goes down, we'll be able to trace her a new TNT.

Today, a great success!

[Tricia]

I'm just entering this discussion so don't know if I'm repeating something that has been said. I try OS years ago when Louise first did them (Burda I think) they were Ok but then didn;t do when again. I bought the pattern from her a couple of years ago and it just sat. A friend had been given a very very expensive pair of linen pants that were made on the bias. A light bulb went off and I decided to try the OS on the bias. They fit great with very little adjusting of the pattern. I did leave larger seam allowances just in case. They are for summer so haven't worn them all day just it try on and wear in the house for a while to check fit and comfort. If this is a new idea try it . Tricia

[Yknot]

I don't remember the bias cut being mentioned here before.  Thanks for bringing it up, Tricia.  Your post reminded me of a Threads article.  In issue #116, Jan 05, Marcy Tilton wrote about bias pants and 2 of her 3 examples used Louise's one seam pants pattern.  

[sdBev]

I did my first fitting today - no pics sorry.  They actually look OK at this point.  the entire crotch length back and front is too long.  Probably my fault.  I used a 1" elastic pinned around my waist and then measured my crotch length with my tape measure.  I measured from the top of the elastic in back down, round and in front to top of the elastic.  My waist is tilted enough that I still need to reduce more in the front than back.  So I reduced 3/4" on the back and 1.5 " in the front -- just lopped it off the  top and restitched 1 line of stitching for the elastic.  I also wish I had reduced the ease as Louise had suggested.  The chart said none for straight leg and 3/8" for taper.  That is so little that I decided not to adjust.  I think the 3/8" would have been perfect.  Now I can't figure out where or how to remove the 3/8" so I'll just wait for the "real" pair. 

I made the change to the crotch length, but didn't have time to try it on.  I'll do that tomorrow.

This turns out not to be a big loss.  When I pulled the fabric from the stash, I thought I was getting a ponte knit.  Not so this was obviously woven, but I thought a rayon.  As I cut, the fabric just didn't feel like rayon so I did the burn test.  Bright orange yellow flame, fiber turned into a gooey mess that stretched into strings and became hard as a rock when it cooled.  I'm thinking nylon, 100%.   Not really the fabric I prefer for summer pants.  So that will make it ease to discard this pair as a "muslin" once all the tweaks are worked out. 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

OK, several things over coffee, and kitties are having their first of many meals of the day. I can answer a few questions.

Yes, I am looking into a PDF version of the two One Seam Pant booklets, plus I have to work within webboy's time...some how, his real job gets in my way! Go figure.....so I will let you all know when it is available.

OK bev...you are figuring out what went wrong. Even though the pants look like a quick, easy, down, and dirty pair...right out of the envelope, a great deal of care needs to be taken. Good part, if you stay the same shape and weight, you only have to sew them, over and over again.

1. When measuring your waist, use 1/4" elastic...it will roll exactly where your waist is and you don't get the extra crotch measurement length as you did with 1" elastic. With 1"  elastic, the top of the elastic is not your waist, the bottom actually is.

2. the first pair should not be made in a knit...you lucked out there.

3. with reducing 3/4" from the crotch length in the back and 1 1/2" in the front....scotch tape the waist casing on your tissue pattern at exactly that measurement and remeasure from the taped casing line along the stitching line of the front and back crotch...making sure to stop and start at the inseam stitching lines of the front and back, then double check that this is your 'weggie' crotch measurement.

4. 3/8" doesn't sound like much until you double it...3/4" is what would have been removed from the entire circumference at the hip. At this point the only thing you can do so the sew a seam down the entire side of the pant removing the 3/8"...you would not have to cut it, just on the  wrong side along the grain line stitch a pressure foot away and press the 'tuck' toward the back....or this can become Saturday morning 'run around pants' ...

The other thing you could try...once you take the stitching out of the casing and press it back flat...seeing it is a working muslin and this would not be transferred to the tissue...just so that you can get use out of this pair...along the center front seam, start about 3/8" at the top of the raw casing, stitch a deeper seam aiming back to the 5/8" seamline once you start hitting the crotch curve, stitch the curve at 5/8" and once past it, and back to the straight area of the crotch,  angle back to 'eating 3/8" more seam again.  This would at least get the hip circumference closer, but the thigh down would still be like the pattern. Again...not to be done as a regular way to do the crotch seam.

Alice, I love your expression:  "my motto, I make them quicker than washing and drying a dirty pair "

With all the work I have on my plate over the next few months...the other morning I was standing looking at the wall of one seams in my closet...of course, looking for one pair, could not find it, so started to put all the 'like' colors together.  With as much traveling, samples get pulled from there, what I have packed and unpacked, new ones, R-T-W:o, all get put in, not with family colors...just get put back...well, I put all the like colors together...removed the winter ones (I think, even in Florida we are not out of winter!!!!), it was interesting to see how many 'like' colors I have in certain ones. Also, with the weight loss, I'm into some I have not seen in a while.

Well, I think I figured out the FBA for MHA'F and will post that on the correct topic. till later, Louise   

[Karendee]

Louise,

A PDF would be a wonderful choice for those of us who missed the 2 OSP booklets. Great Idea!!!! Again, thanks for all the time and effort you spend with us on this site; we so appreciate you!!

Karen

[Alice in Bama]

Louise or anyone else,

  Can you put welt pockets in one seam pants?

[Susan in Saint John]

Yes, of course you can.  There are a couple of pocket variations included in the pattern.  One is called the "elephant ear" and you could probably easily adapt that piece for a welt pocket bag [or make your own].  If you have already made a pair of one seams, it would be easier to figure out exactly where you want the welt pockets on those and then transfer the position to your pattern as it's obviously easier to make the welt pockets on the flat pieces.

I'm pretty sure there are some other pocket variations in the booklets which Louise has written on her one seams.

I'm such a wimp when it comes to making welt pockets.

[Susan in Miami]

I'm such a wimp when it comes to making welt pockets.

Susan, try the Palmer/Pletsch method and you will be sold. The one I use is in the book, "Jackets for Real People".

Susan

[Alice in Bama]

I'm such a wimp when it comes to making welt pockets.

Susan, try the Palmer/Pletsch method and you will be sold. The one I use is in the book, "Jackets for Real People".

Susan

The spring sewstylist magazine has an article on  welt pockets that's were I got the ideal