Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[DebbieY]

These patterns looks like they'd be great to work with. Does anyone know if they can be purchased in Australia?

[LyndaC]

I have worn and taught the remarkable oneseam pants by Louise for years.   Lately I have lost a lot of weight, and none of the pants did her pattern justice.  Yesterday I went on a sewing binge and made three pair, including cutting out, within two hours.   They fit perfectly, look dressy, and it makes me wonder why I waited so long to update my size.

Ladies, if they aren't flattering on you, check out your alterations.   Let Louise guide you.  The problem is most certainly with you, not the pattern.

Thanks, Louise.

[Terri K]

Hi LyndaC      I agree and for that very reason I keep my One-Seam Pants pattern traced with my size (based on the proper measurements) on pattern ease rolled up, tagged and ready to go.   They are so fast to sew up.    There are also so many different ways to do the waist.    You can use a waistband like the Shapes skirts or those Sewing Workshop pants with the same waistband - flat in the front, with the elastic on the side and back that is a popular look.   I like to check out the ideas for interesting waist changes in her booklets.   Lots of techniques for the hems too, especially crop pants this time of year.    

Remember these pants from the Atlanta Expo trunk show

This is the Less is More top, the Of the Moment jacket and the One-Seam Pant with the contrast woven through buttonholes - all in linens.  For the cowl on this Less Is More Top, extend (widen) the bias pattern piece to 18" and hem.    I know Louise has posted about that before on one of the topics about her patterns.  

[mom2five]

oooooh, I love that top... but it doesn't look like the picture on the pattern.... what am I missing?

I want one, I want one, I want one!!!

angel

[Terri K]

Angel,  I just annotated my post to help you out on your question.    I loved that outfit and the colors are TDF.   The pants are a linen with a tiny stripe of each color used in the jacket and the cowl neck top.  Her trunk shows and what you can do with her patterns are amazing. 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Here is the directions for making the funnel for the 'Less is More' shell....I tired to find it in the old 'thread' but it was easier to go to my documents and cut and paste it here. Thanks Teri for the picture...it is such a pretty outfit. I love the colors together.

When worn, the funnel slides over your head and where and how it stops, is the way it is worn…it is a ‘crunch’ neck. It should not be turned in to a cowl. (very dated).

You will be using the Shell from the Less is More pattern. The finished circumference measurements range from 42”- 54”. You can stick with your size or go up in size if you want to experiment a bit.

To make the ‘funnel’ neck, take the bias neck pattern piece for the Less is More pattern, in the size you are using. Tape about 18” of pattern tissue paper to one of the long ends of the bias neck. Continue the 2 short ends of the bias binding by drawing 2 vertical lines up 14”. Connect with a horizontal (and parallel) line. This is your complete pattern piece for the ‘funnel’… it will be cut on the bias, so when it is worn it will fold and drape nicely around your neckline.

A bias grainline is already on the original little neckline pattern piece you are using. Just continue that line a few inches longer. This grainline will give you an accurate measurement when laying out the funnel on your fabric.   (No, the funnel for Stars in Heaven long sleeve shell pattern is not the same neck circumference as the Less is More neckline…it is easier to do it the way I have just written).

The construction of the ‘funnel’ seam will be sewn first at ¼” and serged together, pressed the seam in one direction and stitch again flat. The top hem circumference of the ‘funnel’ needs to be cleaned finished. Stay stitch at ½” and press under this seam. Then press again at 1¼”. Slip Steam-A-Seam under the fold to hold the hem in place while you are edge stitching. Unlike what the pattern instructions have you do, which is putting the bias binding neck seam slightly off the center back, the ‘funnel’ neck seam needs to be placed at the center back of the garment. Pin the funnel to the neckline and stitch at ¼”. Serge the seam and press toward the funnel. The funnel is now complete.

Well, it has been along day...the Sit and Sew samples have been cut, the class techniques all back in order and I checked in about 30 more bolts of fabric that will be shipped to NM on Monday. Been working for about 16 hours today...to until much later, Louise

[PatTM]

Louise, Louise, WHAT are we to do??  It looks like we will be woefully dated if we continue to wear our beautiful straight leg pants into the Fall!! 
I don't think the tapered leg version (as it is) will quite achieve the right shape to the leg.   It seems we still want a straight leg, but a closer, straight fit going down the leg, not a taper going down to the ankle.   I checked in your pant booklet and see directions for altering the tapered leg version.   My question is can I use this alteration ( with a bit of modification) to achieve the look I want??   

Hope your day is happy!!
Pat

[Carolyn]

I have been following the threads regarding new styles.  When I heard even Eskandar is coming out with narrow pants, I knew Louise would be right on it!  Louise, please oh please guide in what to do.  I can see making several one seams in one evening in the new narrow look.  Unfortunately, my body has changed so much in recent years, I'll be resizing myself.

Can't wait to hear Louise's take!

[PatTM]

Carolyn - That makes two of us.  I can hardly wait to hear Louise's take on a narrow leg pant!!!    I'm sure she will not disappoint!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm in NM getting ready start the ASG convention

Once I set up my laptop I'll do my best

Louise
sent from iPhone

[PatTM]

Go Louise!

[Terri K]

I'm in Florida since last week.   For fall I intend to make a pair of the Donna Karan "pleated pegged trousers" in stretch wool that I posted three photos of in the "Where's Fashion Going" topic.    I haven't decided whether to crop them, but like the look with ankle boots.    If you have either of the two One-Seam booklets Louise published on designer changes for the waist, pockets and silhouette, you can pleat, paper-bag, crop, peg and narrow to your hearts content.    I highly recommend the booklets because they add so many dimensions to the basic pant that Louise compiled from actual designer garments.  As always, her instructions and illustrations are the best.  The contents/description of changes in each booklet are listed on her website.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I finally have a few minutes now...I also was able to get to a new EF store...opened yesterday! They had all the new summer and early fall garments in and ready to sell. I talked to one of the national reps from EF out of NYC and asked her about the width of pant hems for fall. They have 3 different styles that they call (I believe) slim, straight, and full. They plan to keep all in the line. The slim was about 12" in circumference, the straight was what my One Seams would be Tapered and the full is the One Seam Straight leg.

My take on the new fashion forward is your age, total shape, shape below the waist, age, age, age, and oh yes, did I mention age, lifestyle, locale, do you have all the additional items to carry off the new look...shoes, bag, jewelry, tops, jackets, vests...all of this seems to be a lot of extra stuff for something that might be a flash in the pan.

And yes, you can take in the tapered One Seams at the hem...in the booklets there is a way to taper the pants down that I call the 'car wash' skirt look in tissue.... cutting the tissue in strips from hem to top and overlapping the hem area in each cut so it will bring down the hem further. Plus, you can remove some of the circumference totally along the grain line. All the details are in the booklets....I'm too tired and it's too late in the day and I don't have a way to draw pictures here....the one think you don't want to do, is make the very tapered One Seams in a stripe fabric...you will see the stripe start to turn toward the in seam.

I'm being very good to you all this evening...I also got to see the new Eskandar fall line...there were 3 pant styles to see...a straight, wide crop style (about 18"), and astraight, wide long pants, same width, and the slimmer style was 16" in hem circumference...my One Seam in the tapered are (if I recall starts at 15 1/2").

I was able to get into many boutiques in the past few days....saw ABO's...AST's (a lot of this style), and even YED cut shorter.  Lots a squared off tops, uneven hems, bias bindings in accent colors....and yes, drop shoulders...it is different look...doesn't make one the right style and all others look out....it's just a diffrent look...embrace it if you want to, but it has to be done all the way, so the style look right. 

You never want to have 'an outfit look'...nothing like that...but the right accessories have to be put in play to make the fashion look current...not just the new pant shape or even the pant and top shape, all the other things you put on have to build on the new look...this all takes time and money...and then is it still 'in' by the time you have assembled the look!

Next time you are at the book store, check out two of the best books out there by Sherrie Mathieson called 'Forever Cool' and her newest one 'Steal this Style'...They are great...and may you never see your self on 'the left page' check it out to see what I mean!

late, and very tired...till later, Louise   

[PatTM]

Louise, as I have said before you are our treasure!   Thank you, Thank you!   From your snoop shopping, other explanations, etc.  I think I now have enough info to figure out what I want to do for my sewing.  I plan to do a bit of narrowing along the grainline as you suggest to make just a bit more narrow, but still straight leg.  The tapered leg is just not my best look.  I am NOT talking about a skinny leg, never have been!   To my thoughts a "skinnyleg"  is quite form fitting.

Pat

[LyndaC]

Hmmm.   Is it possible to leave the bottom hem circumference as is and the waist/hip area, but take out the fullness in the upper thigh area along the grain line to create a slimmer look?  I seem to have excess fabric there.  Waist, hip, crotch are fine, but the upper thigh is full.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Is it possible to leave the bottom hem circumference as is and the waist/hip area, but take out the fullness in the upper thigh area along the grain line to create a slimmer look?  I seem to have excess fabric there.  Waist, hip, crotch are fine, but the upper thigh is full.

Sorry...in one word NO! So sorry about that, Linda...this is the difference between having a seam along the side of the body and not having one. When you have a side seam, you can manipulate the 'in' and 'out' along that seam. You might want to try taking some more out of the total circumference along the grain line this will make it slimmer all the way down.

On an earlier 'thread'.....another way to slim the hem circumference of tapered pants is by taking a very, very long dart from the hem up the grain line to aboutmid  knee. Blend off until nothing at the knee. This way all will be the same fit in the hips, crotch.

Lots to do...got ta run...till later, Louise 

[LyndaC]

Actually, Louise, I was pretty sure this would not work, but I knew if there was a way, YOU would know.  Thanks.

[PatTM]

Louise- I want to report that I have made myself a wonderful pair of cropped pants with your one seam pattern.   I have a pair of Oska pants- you know the one - has a seam down front of legs with pockets that open straight across the upper thigh.  VERY straight leg. Well I wanted another pair and thought why can't I use the one seam-  the Oska pant is a straighter leg and a bit fuller leg than your straight leg pattern and the Oska look is what I wanted, but without any kind of pocket.   I looked in your booklet but didn't see anything that was exactly what I was looking for- so I just "winged" it.   Don't ask how!  I carefully measured the leg widths of the Oska on both the back and the front and somehow drew lines that straightened and widened the pattern leg.  Then I cropped it to just above my ankle.  I absolutely love it!!  Somehow I was lucky not to have screwed up the grainline.  I think a pair of these in 4-ply silk is in my future.   I think I am quite the "thing" in these pants and my eskandar knock-off T-shirt made with a thin bamboo and lycra knit.  (in my not so humble opinion). 

BTW, I saw a pair of eskandar pants in Neiman's this morning styled like the Oska, but the leg widths might be a bit different.  Couldn't tell - it was on a manniquin (sp??) and you know how they pin and arrange the drape of things. 

Anyway- thanks again for this pattern.

[Lisa]

Pat, these sound wonderful!    Any chance we can see pictures--both you and your pattern alteration?

Lisa

[PatTM]

Lisa-  I would love to share pictures, unfortunately I have not taken the time to figure it out.   And I will not have time until we are back from a trip we will begin early next week.  I keep promising myself I WILL figure this out. 

I can tell you the best description of what I did is on page 9 of Louise's one seam pant collection booklet- collection I.  I drew lines parallel to the grainline from the hemline to the crotch points, only since the Oska pant is wider in the front than the back I added more to the front leg portion than the back.  (opposite of Louise's drawing  Her drawing is for a different style - a wrap pant).    Louise may have a problem with this.  The only thing I can say is that my pants hang well and they are of a cotton/lycra blend, with a heavy stripe design woven in the fabric.  The stripes also hang straight.
My plan is to dry clean these pants as I don't trust what might happen if  I launder.   I did not add any circumference to the hipline.

OH, the other thing I noticed this morning with the eskandar T-shirts is there is a narrow strip coverstitched to the hem at the bottom of the body and the sleeves to create a double layer at the edge to add  just a bit of extra weight and to trim an otherwise raw edge in a thin knit that will roll on the unfinished edge.    Kind of like Louise's deconstructed edge suggestions.  These t-shirts are $170.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I WANT PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sandy and I spent all day on the new pattern making sure all the sizes and pattern pieces fit together...plus she read all the copy to me so I could check the pattern dots and clip marks against the illustrations...she thought she would get out of here at a normal hour...huh!

But it is now done...a few tweaks here and there and it is off to the desk top guy to marry the copy and illustrations together and then proofed again...the cover illustration is finished...

Ok, I'm now off to get a ton more stuff done...since I have been home the kitties have not left me alone...you will pay! till later, Louise

[marciae]

Pat - your pants sound great - also would love to see a pic!!  If I can learn to do pictures so can you!!   I'm still not as efficient as most and it takes me "forever" to upload then put here!!  Is there a pic of the Oska pants somewhere??

[PatTM]

The website for Oska is www.oska.de.  The particular pant style is Lima.   The pictures of the individual garments on this website are quite unflattering in my opinion, but in person these are quite attractive.   The ones I bought at a specialty shop here in Denver are in a black, drapey, very crinkled, somewhat thin cotton blend with a hint of a silver sheen thread running through the fabric.  When I figure out the picture routine I will post a pic of these pants along with my version.   Pants on the website are shown with very ugly boots, I wear mine mostly with ballet flats and an eskandar  t-shirt or a camisole with short jacket.   The other place to get a look at a similar pant is the Vogue pattern 8499, view C.     I have this pattern and compared all the measurements to my Oska pair and found the Vogue to be  much larger in circumference at the hipline among other places.   I made up the pattern early in the Spring and did not like it at all.   The ones I made using Louise's pattern do not have the pockets ( I don't need a horizontal line at the top of my thighs), do not have the seams running down the cf and cb of the legs.  They do have the elasticized waist, and a leg width/shape the same circumference as the Oska and they are cropped at the ankle.    The easiest way for me to achieve this was to use Louise's pattern.

My DH just came in, looked over my shoulder and has volunteered to help me get these pics up - maybe sooner than later.

[marciae]

Thanks Pat - - I have that vogue pattern and wondered if your pants were "sort of" on that shape, etc from your description.  Thanks again.

[Susan in Saint John]

Pam,

That's an interesting site for Oska -- thanks for mentioning it.  I have a 1980's vintage Vogue pattern which is somewhat the same.  It's basically like the cropped one seam but there is a panel down the side (so the leg is 3 pieces).  In the panel, there is a horizontal pocket.  It doesn't fit as well as the one seam -- the crotch curve, I think.  I'm heavier than I was then so I'd need to alter the pattern in any case but actually it's easier to modify the one seam because I know it fits.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Yesterday was clean up, fix up day for the 'Relax A Little' pattern...which is now to bed for a bit until all the pieces and parts come back to be to triple check once more before it goes off to the printer.

But, I did have time to check out the Oska site, haven't been there in awhile...have really improved for user friendly...also can study lines and shapes...I believe they used to have the models fade in and out...so if you were really trying to study something you had to wait until she traveled across your screen again and again and again...but I digress.

Got more fabrics in yesterday for the retreat...including a Eileen Fisher black double knit...the first 5 yards are mine ...I have been on a plane so much this past year...I fear I am boring the TSA with my black knit travel 'uniform'...can be washed, thrown back on to travel again.

In looking at the Oska...I think you called them the 'Lima'...the side pocket is so flat it would not add bulk, and if you did it in a flat, crisp fabric...like the gray ones shown...I didn't read the fabrication (they might not had it on the page) a tropical weight wool would work beautifully. I know I had done a version of these pants in the One Seam Booklets and found it in 'Collection I'...it is on page 15 'The Panel Pocket Pants' and the information goes on for 3 columns.

To make the pant fuller...after you have cut the front, side front, and back panels apart (in tissue)...at the hem area, measure out about 1/2" plus at the back and front inseam (remember do this at hem fold area line.....the vertical cutting line will be going back in a bit at the hem fold line, toward the bottom horizontal raw hem cutting line...'turn of the cloth'...this way you won't get to much fabric in the hem area). Start your vertical line at the high hip line on both sides of the side panel and the vertical straight lines of the front and back panel. Just adding 1/2" you will end up with an extra 3" at the hem circumference.  If this is too much...try 1/4"...doesn't sound like much but that will give you is 1 1/2" extra at the hem circumference and 3/8" added at the hem to each seam is 2 1/4".....now I want you to be impressed...all that math was on one cup of coffee!!!!!!!!!

Working in the opposite direction at the hem, I have seen this in Shirin Guild pants and if you look at some of the other hem circumference on the Oska site the hems are just a bit narrower than the full pant leg...you can do the above alteration just be tapering along the vertical lines and the front and back inseams.

The side panels in the One Seam can be done without the pocket...follow the directions for the Panel Pants, just use the measurements to cut the width of the side panel, add the 5/8" seam allowance to the front, back and side panel vertical cut lines and sew it back together...more verticals add height and less width.

Off to start on the Sat. list...some are a spill over of the Fri. list (and I fear Mon, Tue, and Wed list) till later, Louise

 

[PatTM]

OK, Thanks Lousie- I am happy with the pants I made and essentially did the same as you suggest, only I didn't do the panels.  So, I guess, I have just a wider leg one seam pant.   I intend to try the panel pant version as you suggest.  The other pant I want to make is the Max Studio at Bergdorf's pant that you have directions for in one of your booklets.   

BTW- what happened to Shirin Guild??  I have checked her website often, but there has been Nothing for sometime now.  I liked her bit more "quirky" taste than eskandar.  Somehow it was a bit more modern.

And, I am impressed with the math!!

[Jenny]

I have a question about elastic ... just came from the fabric store and found two different Stretch Rite elastics, both 1 1/2" wide. One was marked SS98 on the end and had 4 brighter white stripes running along the length of the elastic (they said the marking at the end might not necessarily match the elastic, as they re-use the plastic gizmos they wind the elastic on). The other had no stripes and was a bit lighter in weight and had a lot of code numbers, but not SS98. I am tempted to get the lighter weight for less bulk, but will it perform as well as the other? Thanks for any guidance... I am using medium-weight rayon fabric for my 1st pair.

[marciae]

I've always ordered from Louise - in looking at what I have in the drawer - it has the lighter white stripes running thru it.  HTH

[Alice in Bama]

I have just about worn my wide leg pattern out so I Finally made it out of  interfacing- tracing paper maybe it last a little bit longer now!  I to try to buy elastic from Louise then I know its the right stuff' bought a bunch from her last Atlanta   expo

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I know that from time to time stores reuse 'fixtures' but it would be nice to make sure it is labeled correctly. Yes, you want to use the elastic that has the lines running lengthwise along the elastic. Not knowing about the lighter one...many (most) elastics you can not stitch through.

Thank you all for ordering your products from me. You know you will always get the correct elastic and I am always here to help.

Hope you all have a great and filling day tomorrow...good thing...One Seam Pants have a 'forgiveness' of about 25 pounds...so here we go between tomorrow and New Years!!!

Till later, Louise 

[Jenny]

Thank you Marcia, Alice and Louise for your guidance on the elastic... I found a lighter wt. fabric in my stash (some kind of drapey blend in a pretty charcoal color) to use for my first pair of one-seams, so not concerned about thickness of elastic anymore. Cut them out last night and so far so good. Can't wait to get them finished this weekend then on to my next pair which I hope will include pockets. Thank you Louise for your wonderful designs and your very helpful presence on this board!!

[marciae]

Louise - I want to use some of your elastic in SW urban pants.  Can I cut the elastic to the width that I want?  I "vaguely" remember that I could do this but wanted to check.  Thanks

[Terri K]

Marcia,   I  used the one inch width of that type of elastic for my first pair of the SW Trio pant (had it in the stash   )and it was a disaster because the elastic recommended for the One-Seam pants is meant to be stitched though in parallel rows.    So if you use it, you would have to do the stitching to keep it from twisting.    A better solution for the waistband for both those SW pants is to use 1" non-roll elastic (see photo) .   For the length, I  cut mine an inch less than recommended for my size for the stretch part PLUS another 8" for across the flat front portion.   I then insert the elastic in the casing, stitching it down at each end, leaving that part of the elastic unstretched inside the casing across the flat front because it stabilizes and keeps the front of the waistband from creasing unattractively.      I took my first pair of the Trio pant (same waistband) to FL this past summer and the elastic twisted so much that I opened up the casing when I got home, took the poor twisted up beyond repair mess out, and inserted the non roll.   HTH


this is the elastic I'm referring to, not the ribbed non-roll

[marciae]

Thanks Terri - it's just that I have a lot of Louise's elastic.  I used it in a pair of slacks at x-mas and did stitch the elastic - it worked wonderful - but I don't want anything that wide.  I'll check my elastic stash - I could always purchase some when I'm in town.  Thanks