Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[Ann]

I want to get at these pants but my daughter and I are being swamped for barrel racing shirts. We raised our price to deter lots of people from buying but it isn't working. I made one today and have 5 more to go. I will be busy and I begin work on Monday. I also found out that I am the principal/teacher of the one room multi-graded school I just moved to and the principal of the 1 room multi-graded school I just left. The teacher is new but eager which will be great.

But, my goal is to make these pants and to get help in making sure they fit properly.

Ann

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am back from Peoria...grand time had by all...but I'm in the process of getting ready for the hurricane coming through tomorrow. At the moment, the news is saying it is not as bad as others that have hit central Florida, but as I learned with the 3 that went through (within 45 days) two years ago (and closed my store) I don't take anything for granted any more.
till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear JudyB1, I need a little more info about the short front crotch, long back crotch...have you already tried the One-Seam Pants Pattern? What are your measurments...this will give me a better idea of your body shape.

Off to batten down the hatches, pull patio furniture in, flower pots, and walk the lower portion of the back yard to check the stream. It runs between my property and a 55 acre of gardents that belong to the city...two years ago with the other hurricanes the small stream  was 100 feet wide for about 5 months...with in my yard about 50-60 feet. All I could see was tree trunks extending out of the water...it looked like I had moved to the Everglades...I'm off, Louise

[JudyM]

Hi Louise,

I hope you didn't have any damage from Ernesto. 

I've made the tapered One-Seams twice, using the Large + size.  My hips are 46", waist is 37" and am 5'4" and a definite pear-shape.  My favorite pair of pants measures 12" for the front crotch and 18" for the back.

My first pair of One-Seams, I only shortened the pant leg.  They were too long in the front and not long enough in the back (dipped at the back waist, especially in sitting).  For the second pair, I shortened the front and added to the back at the pant top.

But they're not really comfortable.  If I reach through the legs and pull some of the front to the back they feel better, like part of the lower front crotch curve needs to be moved to the back.

Does that make sense?  Is that enough information?  I'm sorry I don't have the ability to post a picture.

Thank you for all your help.

Judy     

[Lisa]

Does that make sense?  Is that enough information?  I'm sorry I don't have the ability to post a picture.

Hi Judy,

Please let me know if you need help posting images.  Here's a link to information on posting pictures to get you started! 

Lisa

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear JudyB1...what is your crotch measurement from center front to center back and give yourself a 'wedgie' measurement. It is more important to know your body meaurement than your favorite pair of pants.

You are 46"  in the hips and the finished meaurement of the pants are 50" ..that is 4" of ease...how does this amount of ease feel as far as fullness aournd the circumference of the hips?

If you pull the pants you made, up around the waist so the the crotch is touching you, does it feel better when you try to move your leg forward? 

First, I have to know your crotch measuerment and then I can help you move forward. Let me know. till later, Louise

[JudyM]

Louise,

Snug center front to center back body crotch measurement is 28".  There is plenty of hip ease circumference-wise, but they feel snug across the lower rear.  If I pull them up in the back so the crotch is touching, they feel better, especially if I pull them up so there's a wedgie.  One sewing instructor told me I have a "dropped seat" and another said  it's a "protruding seat".

Thanks for your help Louise.  I'd love to whip up a perfect-fitting pair this weekend.

Judy   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear JudyB1...you are 28" and the pattern is 30 3/8"...along the LG+ waistline, lower the waist from Center Back to Center front along the horizontal waist line 1 1/8" and draw a line. This will now be YOUR waist line for the pattern. scotch tape the waist casing on the line you drew.

If you do what I call the 'Catholic girl school roll' at the waist in the pair you have made...turning the casing over once  around the whole waist, how do the pants feel? Do they feel comfortable in the crotch....I know this is a very silly question....do yo have the pants on heading in the right direction....it has happened before .

Please keep me posted. later, Louise

[Martha Domke]

Louise, with the talk of getting a good or perfect fit with your one-seams, I am reminded of when my DD#2 was first pregnant.  I had gone to New Mexico to take care of my Mother.  DD#2 called me nearly every day, and one day she was so upset.  She had cut out and sewed a pair of shorts.  She couldn't figure out why they only came up about half-way on her legs.  It finally dawned on me what she had done.  She sewed the inseams together instead of the center front and center back.  I told her to take them in to work, and when the girls stopped laughing, they would explain to her what she had done, and how to correct it.   So---yes, it's possible to just put them on backwards.  Been there---done that!

[Mary]

This is my first time posting a question.   I just finished the tapered leg - One Seam Pants and they came out pretty good.  My problem is that the front of the pants is very high and I would like to bring them back down to my actual waist.  Can I simply lower the casing for the elastic in the front, or will that cause other problems.  The back appears to fit fine.

[JenSews]

Ok, I'm a little slow, but I downloaded the Pando program as Lisa suggested and tried sending the SW files to a few people that have requested it.  Please let me know if it worked!  And if anyone else is interested, I can do the same.  Just send me a PM and I'll get them off to you.  I promise I won't take so long!     FYI, I'm pretty sure that you have to download the Pando program to receive it though.

Jen

[JenSews]

Louise,

I'm somewhat ashamed to say that those really ugly purple stiff one seam muslins are now sitting as a UFO on my sewing table for a few months.  I will be pulling them out and working on them again.  They've aged long enough, but I'm ready to have some new pants.  I've gotten over my fear of goofing things up and I have plenty of ugly muslin fabric to use up!  I have saved all of your suggestions and will be reviewing what I've done and starting again after I finished my current project.  I finally have some personal time now that the kids are back in school!

Jen

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I hope your muslin is not made out of muslin? I always suggest to make a 'muslin' out of a fabric similar fabric to what the finished garrnet is going to be made from...or at least the weight of the finished fabric. You will be much happier with the outcome. Muslin example testers for One-Seam Pants won't make you happy with the resilt.  They always look like you are wearing a gathered shower curtain around the waist instead of a nice drape. The tester should be made from a weighty rayon...make sure it is not a crinkle rayon...of course it has to be the ugliest...what was I thinking when I bought this fabric....fabric ....then you will be ticked off because they turn out just fine...and you wear them for PJ's or gardening. Please keep me posted....I'm on vacation in Nantucket for the next few weeks, but I am not far from the laptop...especailly when all the other houseguests are still sleeping. . till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am back home for a few days before I head of to teach in Novi.  Kitty to the left of me and a kitty to the right of me or both on paper work, mail, orders, retreat into and just plain stuff and the like. If there is anything you would like to write about just let me know. I am out of here on Wednesday, but will have my laptop with me.. till later, Louise

[DeniseM]

Louise: we'll miss you at the Chantilly Expo. 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Since the ASG National Conference was in Arlington, VA just 6 weeks ago, I saw so many of the ladies who I normally see at the wonderful Chantilly Show. I have not done the Novi Show in several years. I also stayed on vacation until yesterday...I could never do that when I did the Chantilly show. I always had to pack the van (this took hours, in 90 degree heat) (first pick up the rental van), then drive for 2 days, do the Sit and Sew on Wednesday...and thenteach  the rest of the weekend. The Novi show is the only one that I know of that starts on Friday for their core days. So I will fly to Detroit (no fabric there) on Wednesday get the rental car and drive to Haberman's (a true bus mans holiday for me). I will teach the all day Sit and Sew on Thursday and teach Fri-Sun.

Plus I have an old highschool friend that lives on the other side of the state and am planning on spending a few days with her getting caught up before I fly back home next Thursday. I then plan for Ames in late Oct and Kansas City in November...then all attention turns to the retreat in Jan. Plus a new pattern (or 2). One for this fall and another before the Puyallup show. It's always something....till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi One Seam Pants© People.

I have not taught in Novi for a few years and when I saw the schedule for teaching...ugh!!! 8:30AM every morning all about One Seam Pants©!!! Thank you all for taking my class...it was full every morning....That meant many, many ladies got up at 6AM (and me) to get ready each morning and arrive in time to let a good seat. And to those ladies who weren't able to get into class, I 'splained' the rest of each day in the booth where the 'one seam' was? Well, there are another 160 people with the pattern and 120 ladies with the booklets. My friend Rose helped me in Novi...the gal who is normally is with me this past year at the expo shows, son was married that weekend. Between Rose and I standing in the booth, spent most of the time with our tops pulled up 'over our heads'  showing the questioning sewer about the elastic top waist casing on the pants. Those who really didn't know how the pants are supposed to fit...think the circus will be coming to get us wearing clown pants...people are always shocked at just how little the amount of fulliness actually goes into the waist casing.

With my side trip to Haberman's I picked up some yummy fabric, I plan to make a panel pair of pants today or tomorrow. "A girl can never have too many pairs of  One Seam Pants©!!!"

My travels across the state on Monday was beautiful...the leaves were just starting to turn colors. And now that I am back in FL for about 2 weeks, the weather has finally borken and am able to sit out on the back patio to have dinner...the kitties had a grand time going after who knows what??!!

till later, Louise

 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am off to teach in Iowa tomorrow through the weekend. I just checked the weather forcast...bit different than here. I am always asked what fabrics for One-Seam Pants...because of so many years in Florida, I forget until I have to travel in the fall and early spring, that tropical weight wool...like men's suiting is a great choice as is a light weight wool crepe.

I have suggested a separate when teaching to use a pant line out of tricot instead of lining the pants. Much easier (and faster) to make a pair of One-Seams  in your fashion fabric and that way you will be able to wear them in a wider variety of temps...and just slip the pant liner under in the really bad days. In some parts of the country with the temperture swings, you might need the liner in the morning and evenings and then by mid afternoon the weather is fine and you can go without the liner.

Liner: I would suggest the Internet for finding tricot...you all might have suggestions... I no longer carry it for fabric. Make one liner pair in ivory and another in black. Make your same size that you do in your One Seams (in tapered style) but remove the waist casing and replace it with lingerie elastic...like you would see at the top of half slips. Then remove about 2" from the hem...make the liner at least 2" above the finished hem of your fashion fabric pants. That way when you sit down you won't see the liner. Set your machine up to do a 'picot' edge. The stitch is several stitches straight and then 1  zig-zag stitch. After the entire hem is done it looks like  little scallops along the bottom.

Well, I'm off to get my samples in order and finish packing.

Let me know what you are all sewing on. You gals are reading my posts...but I'm out here by my self ...and Cutting Line Designs 'thread'...I'm here to help when I can. till later, Louise

[Linda 75142]

I am off to teach in Iowa tomorrow through the weekend. I just checked the weather forcast...bit different than here. I am always asked what fabrics for One-Seam Pants...because of so many years in Florida, I forget until I have to travel in the fall and early spring, that tropical weight wool...like men's suiting is a great choice as is a light weight wool crepe. ...and Cutting Line Designs 'thread'...I'm here to help when I can. till later, Louise

Thanks for the reminder about fabrics.  I was just thinking last week, "would wool crepe work?"  I'm going to get some and make a pair for the fall--lined with ambience.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Make sure you dry clean and have them run the fabric through the 'dry cleaning process'...not just steam the fabric. Wool crepe can (and I have seen ti happen :'(to a students pants, shrink about 2" - 3" per yard lengthwise. Better to have the shrinkage out before you start...so buy more at the beginning...OK, so I off to pack, again! L 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

There have been a number of One Seam Pants Patterns mailed out receintly (about 10 just today)...so if this is the first time trying it...let me know if you need help fitting yourself into a size.

I arrive home late yesterday...hours in the airplane in Detroit...troubles with something...so we sat...but I'm back here now filling orders and trying to get ready for Kansas City next month. That will be the last trip (120 days total on the road this year )...so now I will have time to work on new patterns, the retreat, and help ya'll when needed.

Off to the post office.  till later, Louise

[Liana]

Gosh, Louise, 120 days a year?    That's 10 days a month.  I don't think I could do that.  

We all love to be able to see you or other sewing experts "in person", but I hate to think of the amazing time commitment you all have to make to do this.    It's not just the teaching time of course, it's the traveling, and the sitting in airports, as you note. 

Thank you for all your hard work, and especially for the wonderful help you give everyone on the board.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The two hard times are the Feb/March shows and again in Sept/October shows. Between the Clearwater (now Tampa) show and Puyallup I have about 1 day home before I fly across the country. At the end of the  Puyallup show, I take a 'red eye' home Sunday night...gettting back to Orlando (usually that means no sleep all night) about 7AM Monday morning...take a cab directly to the van rental place and pick it up...pack it with all the goodies for Atlanta (200 hundred bolts of fabric, about 4000 buttons, notions, patterns and booklets...this takes about 4-5 hours) and start to drive on Tuesday morning...that is less than 24 hours home...and I have been gone for about 2 weeks by now and have orders to fill, bills to pay and evrything else for a regular comings and goings for a house. Make 'nice-nice' with the cats...this takes major time! I start to teach a Sit And Sew in Atlanta on wednesday.....and the rest of the week teaching and in the booth. Pack what is left over and head home...some years I have had to start on Saturday night after packing the van to get about 4-5 hours 'under my belt'... if i have to be home and get ready to fly to a Guild special event by that next week. So at that time of the year in about 3 1/2 weeks (adding the travel time to and from the various shows) I only have about 2-3 days at home. But this is the way the sewing business has gone.

I had a fashion fabric store for 16 years...as has been discussed on another chat area are closing everyday. Mine closed because of the hurricanes on Aug/Sept of 2004 here in Orlando. We had 3 in about 45 days....sewing was the last thing anyone was looking to do...it didn't matter...I didn't have electricity...which meant...I had no phone system, computer, internet connection to get orders...the credit card system didn't work...could not demo sewing machines...teach classes...run a business. 

I had already been 'on the road' for years teaching and the pattern line and booklets were starting to get known...and you just keep moving where the whole sewing  buiness was going. Because so many ladies don't have access to stores locally...the expos travel to larger cities...it might not be exactly your type of sewing...let the 'show promoter know' what you are looking for...if you don't suport the shows by not coming.... the shows won't come back and will be gone...no one will win in the end. Then we as sewers will have very expensive machines and the only fabric we will have is ...................our stash to sew ......and as everyone knows....... she with the most.....by the way, you are all going with your stash...I'm going with my scissors!   Off to sew for the day...my favorite kind of day. Louise     

[Ann]

Louise, have a sewing day for me too. I have everything packed away as we have sold and moved out of our house. We are living in a travel trailer for a week and then will move into a new modular home. We will probably have a generator for power so won't hook up a machine until later. This has been an adventure but it needs to end soon. 2 cats, 2 dogs, 2 humans in a 27ft travel trailer is a tad cramped, especially when one cat wants to escape, the dogs feel lost, and the humans feel tired. Only our gray cat is happy with the arrangements.

It is amazing how fashion fabric stores are shutting down all over the country. Our Fabricland has a good selection of fashion fabrics but it is privately owned. We have a several Internet sites in Canada that are good but one has to travel great distances to get good fashion fabric. But, fashion sewing is not being promoted in schools any more. I spent 3 years developing both garment and quilting classes for grades 10, 11, and 12 only to have it almost ditched when I left to become a principal. Thank goodness the lessons were well written and easy for any teacher to follow and all the resources were in place. I still fear that it will be ditched and it would be a shame. These are courses the girls take as they use these skills throughout their lives.

Ann

[LOUISE CUTTING]

To have an independent fashion fabric store has to be one of the most expensive operations to own. Within the first 5 years of owning Fabric Collections (16 years total...I just realized it has been closed 2 years ago as of Oct 31st...where has the time gone...the 3 hurricans really  did me and the business in) ... anyway back to the first 5 years...I saw 3 of my best customers die, 4 very high profile ladies in town stopped working or moved, and didn't need to have their custom suits anymore, 2 Etc. Stores with in 10 to 15 minutes to the north and south of my store opened (and at that time had 'alright' fabrics...not the same any more) and a new top end mall...the first in "O" town all happened. So there went my bride/bridemaid/MOB business. We live in the center of 'discount' malls since we are  close to the 'Attractions' here in Central FL. Plus the weather is pretty good most of the year...that means outside activities...and don't forget you are right now on the Internet...all takes time away form sewing. And take the same money that used to come into the independent fabric store. So when you own a store like mine, you keep 'pushing the pea up hill with your nose'to keep bringing in new classes/notions/fabric departments (lower end/higher/evening/quilting). Then dealing with the very, very deep discounting other store are conducting.

When I was at a wholesale textile show, I saw some fabric I passed on...it was a silk at $16.95 wholesale...way to expensive when it would have been brought in and marked up to sell. The next season when the ETc opened...I checked out the fashion fabrics...there was the smae fabric...full retail  price at $15.95 and a 25% off and a daily extra special brought the price down to $9.95 a yard!!! I could have used my Tax exp. number purchased it at $9.95 and even saved on the shipping...I still passed!!!

At the next show I saw the vender and asked about the price and fabric that I saw (I guess it was too high a price or all the other independent fabric stores to purchase also)...his comment back to me...'Well, if you bought 10,000 yards, I would have given you a better price also!".... I never bought from him again. The venders don't care about the small independent fabric store who want about 8-10 yards on a bolt (so you don't see your self coming and going in town). That small order per different fabric takes time and man power to roll on a tube or bolt , wrap and ship...and the large big box sotres just 'buy'....they don't hand pick fabric so that it goes with the mix with what they already have...or know that 'so & so' will love this fabric...etc. We know our customers and we buy for you.

So, if you have an independent fabric store, no matter how far you have to travel to support them...and don't just buy when they have sales...an independent fabric store makes very little or no money when they are having a sale, they are trying to keep the lights on or know they have new merchandise coming in and need room.

 I really need to run, now .. .let me hear back from you about your independent fabric store and your thoughts.  till later, Louise

[QueenBee]

Hello Louise and all. Louise, I finally, in September, finished my one- seams that I started in class ( I know- I should have finished them in class!) when you were here in Fresno in January. I got tired of Carol teasing me at every meeting. I have never laughed so much in my life! Not the fit, thats ok, considering what I'm asking them to cover . Oh- as if I really expect you to remember - I'm the tall, dark haired gal with burgundy tencel that was the only person who used the largest size & then we had to add a bit more. Sigh....

Thanks for making such great patterns with fabulous directions. This was the first garment I've sewn in years....I took your class before, when you were here in Oct '04 & measured us & suggested adjustments as well as a full day of sit and sew techniques. When I got home that time, all jazzed about sewing, I got out the pattern tissue, took one look at that giant pattern piece and promptly shoved the pattern into some dark abyss. Having gained more weight than I want to admit that was too hard to deal with. Doing it in class this time, I had to deal with it. And I came away wanting to do more sewing.... so, yaa me & thanks Louise!

I've traced off the pattern for a couple of variations and am ready to try some more now.....I'll keep you posted. Maybe I can do the next pair in a week!

Rene Marie

[markacz]

I am joining this chat at Louise Cutting's encouragement.  I made the One Seam Pants and they turned out great!  But not without some adjustments to the pattern at Louise's instructions.
I first traced off the size MD onto pattern paper/material and shortened the crotch length per the pattern directions.  I made a "mock up" out of a thin double knit jersey.   What happened here?  They didn't fit well at all!!

I emailed Louise and she immediately responded and told me to get a different fabric for the mock up - something that would be closer to what the pattern suggests.  She also asked for my measurements.  I gave her that info and she responded again advising I change the size to a SM+ AND split the pattern all the way down the grain line and add 1/4" all the way down the pant.  She also made sure I will be using the correct elastic in the waistband for the proper fit.

Using a different mock up fabric and following Louise's instructions to redo the pattern, I made the pants and they fit better (I can actually wear them); but, I felt they could still be somewhat shorter in the crotch - but only in the front.  I had a plan to fix that but Louise said DON'T TOUCH THAT WAISTBAND.

Here's the last trick:  She had me slice the pattern along the hip line from front to back, but NOT ALL THE WAY THROUGH.  Stop just before the back seam.  Lower the top portion of the pattern over the bottom - no more than 3/4" .  This alteration will look like a long, thin slice of pie.

I made the change and bit the bullet - making the pants out of the wonderful fabric I had purchased.  They came out great - a wonderful fit.  THANKS TO LOUISE
 
I am a convert to making a 'muslin' pattern or some type of mock up.

Marilyn

[marciae]

Isn't it great to have well fitting pants.  Louise has been very generous with her time on the sewing boards to help all.  And, if you're brave enough to post your measurements she'll fit you "from the board"!  Congratulations on your success.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm alway here to help...and as I have said in the past...I only print the measurements with names and street address about every 3 months

I'm off to the sewing room to cut Sit andSew fabrics samples for the show in Kansas...hope to see some of you there. later, Louise

[Fabricarts]

Louise,
  I just want to say what a thorough, comprehensive job you've done in putting together your Tips & Techniques for One-Seam Pants. I bought the Collection I booklet when it first came out and thought there couldn't possibly be more to add. I recently purchased the Collection II booklet and I'm so glad I did! All of the additional ideas are really appealing - and so well presented.
  Thanks for all you contribute to make our sewing more fun!
Miriam

[fzxdoc]

Welcome to SG, Markacz (Marilyn)!  Your first post is such a great one--everyone loves a sewing story that ends happily! 

Here is some information we try to pass on to our new posters:

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It will be great to hear more "happy sewing tales" from you in the future!  Louise's patterns are great, and she is always so helpful.  I bet you're ready to make another pair of pants right away.

[Elona]

Something almost musical about the words "Forum Decorum" reminded me of this obscure poem (?) of sorts, beloved of crazed fans of Latin:

Motor Bus

What is this that roareth thus ?
Can it be a Motor Bus ?
Yes that smell and hideous hum
Indicat Motorem Bum !
Implet wheresoe'er they ply
Terror me Motoris Bi :
Bo Motore clamitabo
Ne Motore caedar a Bo -
Dative be or Ablative
So tho only let us live :
Whither shall thy victims flee ?
Spare us, Spare us, Motor Be !
Thus I sang ; and still anigh
Came in hordes Motores Bi ,
Et complebat omne forum
Copia Motorum Borum .
How shall wretches live like us
Cincti Bis Motoribus ?
Domine , defende nos
Contra hos Motores Bos !

A D Godley, Reliquiae (1926)

[mkyred]

I have been wanting to try the one seams as this is the type of pants I love to wear most but I wasn't sure if they would fit my plus sized petite frame. I wear a size 22 in RTW and am 5'1. So question is do y'all think I could make one seams fit? Thanks for any suggestions.

Wendy
in North East Texas

[SuziQz]

Absolutely! 

[Karla]

Wendy, Louise Cutting is very proud of the wide range of body types her one-seam pants work for.  Skinny, average, voluptuous, short, medium and tall....her directions help you choose the correct size and tell you how to customize the pattern for you.  And if you run into a problem, just post here and she'll give you personalized online help. 

Not affiliated in amy way, shape or form unless you consider being a customer "affiliated".....