Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[LyndaC]

You want photos of your great creations?   Here we go:



There are photos of two coordinating oneseams with baseball tops to match.   The stripes mitre professionally on the sleeve seams and look perfect.   There is a rayon animal print [/img] oneseams, and the elastic waist top that is so flattering.   

[Terri K]

Thank you for all that inspiration Lynda!   I'm in a world of hurt - I'm out of the correct type of elastic now

[vtmartha]

Those are lovely, Lynda!  What pattern did you use for the 'baseball tops'?

[LyndaC]

Thanks!   This is Louise's baseball top...I'm sorry I don't know what she named it.   It looks professional, but has the Louise EASE in construction that is consistent with all her creations.  The ragland sleeves and shaped neckline are traditional, but the easy topstitching and shaped bottom make it appear more feminine than you would think.   I think the automatic stripe matching at all the sleeve seams shows off the stripes and make it appear more professional.  I also give it "essence of waist" by shaping it more there.  I have used it for teaching tops and buttonholes because of the predictable good results.   And it is a GREAT relief from T's.

[Terri K]

Lynda's tops look like the one in the By Popular Demand pattern.   Here's the line drawing.   

Lynda:  I did the same thing to link this image.  I went to Louise's site and right clicked on the image - copied the image location and pasted it between the brackets you get when selecting the image icon.

[vtmartha]

Thanks, Terri. I was thinking that might be the one.  I've made the jacket, but not the top.

[marciae]

Somewhere - - --- Louise says this 'baseball' top is an Armani design.  The last time I made it I took the sleeves in - using the instructions she give for the ABO tops.  It's a great top.

[LyndaC]

Another neat way to modify Louise's or anyone's tops is to take vertical pleats equidistant from both center front and center back.  Of course, this usually doesn't affect necklines, sleeves, bust, or most styling, so it can be a quick, easy way to reduce the body size of a garment.

[Terri K]

Enjoy my effortlessly elegant, fitted One-Seam Pants and Louise Cutting/Sewing Workshop outfits.   



L-R CLD AST in wool crepe, Now Shirt in silk jacquard, One-Seam Pant in tropical Wool- One-Seam pant in 2 ply silk, silk knit LH princess tank, SW Ikina jacket in knit

[PatTM]

Terri- what is the jacket you are wearing in the photo with the lighter colored one-seams?  Looks like a Haiku-Two?   Is it a knit?  Looks great. 

You can also modify patterns by expanding them with slashes at the shoulders down through the hem (back and front)and spreading the pattern piece to gain the desired width.   I sometimes do this to get more of an Eskandar look.  I like that drape on the sides, with a good drapey fabric I think it is a very slimming and elegant look.    And it keeps the neckline, sleeves, etc. from becoming too oversize.   It works for me much better than simply using a larger size.

Pat

[Terri K]

That's the Sewing Workshop Ikina Jacket in a knit.   I've made it many times, cutting the band on the crosswise grain instead of bias in knits and to vary.   Great pattern!  Here are some other "looks" with the Ikina:    The black/grey is a novelty stable boucle knit from EOS.  The others have the band on the bias per the pattern directions.  I'll also post on SW topic.

[Fabricarts]

 Thanks for adding life and vibrancy to this topic, Terri. I enjoy seeing the stylish, flattering, of-the-moment, relaxed elegance of the clothes that you share. Seeing the wardrobe you've developed helps me want smarter choices for myself as well - so thanks for all that you share. I appreciate that you've used several of the independent patternmakers in your wardrobe.
  It seems so clear that Louise's patterns and information stand  the tests of time and countless users. I am in awe of Louise's graciousness in handling questions here or by e-mail  - as if she had nothing else to do with her time. Not everyone can communicate as clearly and patiently. Her traveling and teaching schedule along with completing new projects just underscores what an accomplished businesswoman she is.
Miriam

[Terri K]

Thank You  Miriam for your graciousness and wisdom.   You said everything so well.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I had an e-mail sent to me privately to help with fit on a pair of One Seam Pants. I thought it would help others just starting to fit a pair.

Below is what you will need to do. I will show you how to change the pattern to make it fit you and this could also help others. The changes that I give you here will only be for the straight leg version...the tapered style in the pattern will have different alterations. The Tencel that you are using for your first pair should be just fine...make sure you cross grain the fabric at both ends so the pants will hang straight. Make sure you use the Stretch Rite Sport Elastic... 1 1/2"...on the side of the roll of elastic is a white plastic end cap and should read SS98.

The e-mail started:

I'm hoping to make my first pair of One-Seam Pants and would like your help on which size to try. I am using tencel for my first. I will use the fuller leg version.


Here are my numbers, etc:

Hip - 39.5" Use the Size SMALL in the Straight leg....completely along the grain line ... down what would have been the 'side seam' REMOVE 5/8" totally down the side...including the waist casing

How I arrived at this is: Your hips are 39.5" and you need approximately 3.5" of ease= 43" the One Seam Pants Pattern in the size SMALL is 44 3/8"...that is 1 3/8" more in the pattern hip circumference area that you don't need. So to get rid of the excess you will pinch out about HALF of that amount (left leg-right leg)...or 5/8". 

Crotch - 27" No change needed. The crotch in the size SMALL is 27 1/4"...that little bit won't make a difference. Now, tape the bottom line of the waist casing tissue to the size SMALL line at the top of the pant pattern piece...make sure the 5/8" is removed at the center of the waist casing so the waist casing matches the pants tissue pattern.

Waist - 30" cut your Stretch Rite Sport Elastic 5" smaller ...at 25"...you could take more out but start here

Height - 5'5" follow the directions in the instructions to measure yourself and get the proper length of your pants. On the tissue has the chart for the unfinished length in each size...you did not give me your pant length

Full derriere the 'cut' of the crotch will take care of that...it is all in the draft

Average weight

Thank you so much for your help!

Keep me posted to your progress. Off to do a ton of paperwork with order all the tables, electric, hotel rooms, vans, airlines, cars for the next for shows. till later, Louise

[Terri K]

I just finished another pair of One Seam pants this afternoon.  These are in a drapey rayon blend tweed that I made a short jacket out of (see my blog for that).   Since I keep my master pattern in pattern ease tacked on my bulletin board (behind me) I can make a pair in a couple of hours.

Don't forget to steam the waistband after topstitching the rows through the elastic!  Here's what it looks like after the steaming.

And today's "Duh" question for Louise -  here's the black Armani fabric I bought from you at one of the Expos for One Seam pants, but need to add to the back crotch because the fabric is just shy of being 60" wide.    Can you repeat how to do that please?

These will look great with this black with gold knit cardigan jacket I made the first week of this year.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Ooohhh...just checking back in here...one of my least fun days today...filling out all the paperwork for Puyallup, Atlanta, Tampa and Arlington, TX for the different the sewing expos...this includes, air, hotel, car and/or van, tables, electric...I think it ended up being about 75 pages...plus numerous hours on the computer trying to find the right air...connecting to the right city...at the right time...getting my tax info correct to the state agencies...times 4 different states with  different tax codes...times 4 different tax %....and sending them to all the different agencies...electric goes differently than booth...than tables...etc....about 8pm I finally gave up and will start the final papers tomorrow...all the while, it was 85degrees (oohhh, sorry rest of the country)...but is was  out there....and I wanted to go our and/or sew all day today...well if I eat my vegetables first thing tomorrow morning (paper work) I can get dessert (sewing time).

So, lets see what you need tonight. I heard from the lady I posted from earlier...she sent me her length...but my question back to her...the side length, is it from your waist to the floor...or did you put the tape measure under your heel 1"  like is suggested in the instructions. This way, if the tape is under your heal at 1" and then pulled straight up your side the larger number on the tape will be at your waist, you will have your entire length of your pants, including the hem allowance. When you hem your pants at 2"...even through you stuck the tape under your heel at 1", the hem will now be off the floor 1" when wearing your One Seams.

Now to Terri...so many fabrics, especially form Europe are not a full 60" wide, and if you are in the smaller size range of the One Seams you only need one length of fabric, but the crotch tip is not on the fabric and you can end up with a hole down there...not a good place to have one!  . Place your pants pattern on the fabric...by the way, I always loved that piece of Armani. With the back crotch tip going beyond the selvage edge of the fabric, pin the tissue and cut the pants out. Using another piece of plain tissue, place it under the fabric and draw the small triangle that is needed. Make sure you draw a large enough vertical line to give yourself seam allowance. You can cut the triangle larger and trim it down later after the triangle has been sewn onto the rest of the leg. Place the triangle with the vertical line on the selvage, pin in on and cut it out...with the two vertical selvages sewn together it will form a strong seam. When you stitch them, bring your stitch length down...maybe to 2.0mm. ..press this seam open and place your tissue back on the pants fabric...get everything back in alignment and re-cut the small triangle if needed to the proper shape.

I quickly looked through USA Today and they had about 5 or 6 actresses in men's tuxedos, I think all at the Golden Globes on Sunday night. All were simply beautiful.

Well, I have typed this entire note to you with Twinkie's paw resting on my wrist as he fell asleep with the corner of the laptop pusher in his cheek...and where the heat comes out of the side...he is just gone...sorry to say he has never gotten his hearing back after his illness that past summer, but he seems to be doing just fine. till later, Louise.

[joanier]

Thanks so much Louise for being so accessible.  I got frustrated about some one-seams the other day that didn't quite make the width and never knew there was a fix for it.  I'll print this out and include it in my pattern.  I need to walk through it again (I think I have a spatial conceptual disability!) but I do get the gist of it and it will solve my problem for a couple of pieces I was considering for one-seams.

[PatTM]

I was looking at Terri's blog - the green pants- the picture with the oxford pant and Louise's one-seam pant side by side.  I think that is an interesting picture to compare these two patterns.  Same fabric, but look at the drape and hang of the one seam compared to the drape and hang of the oxford.  I think the one-seam looks like a far more flattering pant.   I think part of the reason is the type of elastic treatment used with the one seams.   I have noticed that very high end elastic waist pants use this same treatment.  Since I no longer tuck anything in why would I want the hassle of sewing a waistband type of pant??

[Terri K]

Pat, thanks for pointing that out.   It is interesting and I'm having my stylist take photos today (now that it's a sunny day) of me in the Oxfords, Hepburns and this One-Seam pant, which I will post on my blog.   The first two styles have a lot less ease (Oxford pattern says 1"; Hepburn pattern says 4" but mine probably have 2") so you need to understand how much ease is allowed and how much you are comfortable with.   But, here's the thing -  by taking your own measurements the way Louise instructs you to in her pattern instructions,  then adjusting this pattern accordingly, you end up with a custom fitted pattern.   I don't know of any other pattern where this is the case, so you're on your own;  and if you are experienced enough to know how and where you need to add ease or crotch depth, then you do it, and maybe after three or four muslins, have a pant that fits you.  If you don't, you end up with a wadder for the thrift store.

[vtmartha]

if you are experienced enough to know how and where you need to add ease or crotch depth, then you do it, and maybe after three or four muslins, have a pant that fits you.  If you don't, you end up with a wadder for the thrift store.

What I would like to learn, as I apparently don't know, is how to remove extra 'ease' from the back of the thigh in the OSP.  Does anyone have any advice on this?  I get a lot of vertical folds in the back of the upper leg when I make them according to my size.  I like the elastic waist as I have a small hip/waist ratio.

[marciae]

Martha - off the top of my head I'd say you need a smaller size!!  I 'lived' in OS when I was working.  I don't wear or make as many now.  I have a gray pair that I really need to take out the elastic and cut it down a bit!!  Maybe "someday" - when I wear them they just don't feel quite right!!!

[vtmartha]

Marcia, I've considered that option.  I would need more room in the waist and hips if I used a smaller size.  Do you think I should slash the smaller sized pattern down the side from the waist to the hem and open the waist/hips a bit?  The One Seams I've made are easy to sew and wear but my DH, who rarely comments on what I wear, has told me they need to be 'taken in in the back'.  All I can say is "no can do".   

[Terri K]

Martha, perhaps you need to re-measure.    I keep a sheet on my bulletin board with my original measurements (when I was measured by Louise at Waechter's a couple of years ago) and compare to where I am now.    I had an OMG moment when my scale was off by ten pounds this morning - ten lbs less  - but my butt was the same size in the mirror  .   I have a tendency to change in the waist if I've been bad about not getting enough exercise or eating deserts.    Other than that, I haven't changed in inches measured, so my OSPs fit great and are comfortable to wear.   I start with the size small and decrease.   For the waist, I cut a 26" piece of elastic and butt it together and back it with a scrap of silk while sewing it together.    I probably could go shorter on the elastic,  like Louise recommended to the lady making her first ones in tencel, but this works for me, because the little extra compensates for those waist changes  .   

[PatTM]

I'm sorry Martha I don't believe I can help you.    I only know what works for me.  I follow Louise's pattern instructions explicitly, including the directions for how to measure.   I "carry" my weight in my hips and have a good bit smaller waist.   That said, I have used every size from the small to the large, paying attention to the amount of ease I think I want as Terri said.  The amount of ease, for me, depends on the look I am going for.  I have even used one of the sizes and then folded out down the grainline a bit of the ease and then add back just a bit at the back crotch point.  This seems to work the best for me to get the look I want.
I seem to remember Louise talking about using the iron to press the bias on the back crotch seam and then use the pattern to recut that curve.  Not sure if I remember this correctly, but I believe this was to give a better fit to the back of the pant.
Pat

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear Martha, Let me know your hip measurement, snug and crotch measurement, snug CF to CB to your waist...which way does your waist tip in the mirror looking at your self sideways...back to front or front to back...a little or a lot?

You will not be able to add or take away in selected areas for the pattern...but we can tweak the circumference so you will like the fit better. Knowing they will not fit like a pair of jeans...the fuller your fanny is in the back, the more fabric you might have back there after it 'drops' off your fanny going to the hem. Are you making the tapered pants style?

We change body shape even though the weight is the same.

I seem to remember Louise talking about using the iron to press the bias on the back crotch seam and then use the pattern to re-cut that curve.

This too could very easily be the key...do you have the problem in some of your One Seams or all of them...vertical folds usually means the garment is too big. I did post back several months...maybe someone cut and pasted it and re-post it here.

So, let me have your measurements and I will try to help, or you can e-mail them to me privately louise@fabriccollections.com

till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi Louise - My 1-inch under the heel measurement for the pant length is 43". I notice you offer suggestions in the pattern instructions for cropping ... I will definitely be cropping one of my versions, but probably not the first.

Thanks again for all of your wonderful help!

I am just digging myself out from a ton of work...like usual. Sorry, it has taken me a few day to get back to you...As I recall, you are in a Small, straight leg and we did nothing at the waist casing line except tape the waist casing along the small waist line.

In the Small size, the length including the raw hem is 42 1/4" and you measure 43"...the pants need to be made 3/4" longer. Do this at the length/shorten line.  there will be some fabrics that have a lot of weight and drape that you can and will be cutting some of the hem off...but at least it is there is you need it.

Yes, make the first pair full length...then you can use the proportion chart to get the Capri's the proper length for just you.

I always suggest, don't put pockets in the first pair,and make them out of a woven fabric first time out.

till later, I still see the grind stone in my future. Louise

[marciae]

Yesterday I finally ripped out the waist on my gray pair to replace the elastic!  I made those about 3 yrs ago and have not worn them much as I "thought" i had the length of the elastic too long.  Well, guess what - I apparently was out of Louises elastic and put in some really structured stuff??   No wonder they never felt right.  I'm here to tell you - ALWAYS use the elastic from Louise!! NAYY.  Today when I cut a length I notice I still have about 4 yards left!!!

When I started to rip I decided I'd just undo the three stitching lines the were in the elastic so I wouldn't have to undo the bottom!!  Think about that statement for a bit - After 3/4 of an inch you can't get inside the casing!!   Talk about a MAJOR MAJOR DUH moment -  Anyway I thought I'd give you all your Monday - what was she thinking - minute!!

[Alice in Bama]

Marciea,
 you are right about Louise elastic I bought some from her in October I c an tell a big difference the the sport elastic i been using It might be the difference in the size of the elastic too . But just made a pair of one seams out of some fabric I got from Ms Louise at the expo the olive green linen and made them quicker than my computer download something from microsoft Go figure 

[Susan in Saint John]

I've got a pair of tapered one seams cut out and I've decided I'd like to do the floaty sheer panels on it as described in Louise's 2nd book on one seam variations.  However, her instructions are based on the straight leg version.  Is this going to be a problem?  Also, I'm planning to make the sheer panels on a separate elastic waistband so the pants can be worn with and without the panels.  Has anyone tried this?  Thanks.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear Susan,

With you making the panels separate...by the way...a great idea!...you should have no problem at all. You don't have to do the wide Stretch-Rite elastic in the panel section...over lap the panels as described in the booklet and then they could even be tied on with a little ribbon or a button and loop, hooks and eyes...just about anything that will keep the waist in place. If they are for evening...a bias band of the pant fabric for the waist band and then long ties down one side would be very pretty.

Back to work....I been in and out all day and have fallen behind in stuff to get done.

till later, Louise

[Susan in Saint John]

Thanks Louise.  Yes, the panels would be for evening wear.  Those are great suggestions.

[bessiecrocker]

Count me on as a fan of the one seams!! I was truly sceptical, but on another post here someone recommended that I start to learn pant fitting using this pattern. I really hate elastic waist pants, but I decided to compromise my core values and just run up these pants to see how the crotch would fit...expecting to hate them, never wear them, toss them at earliest opportunity. Well, I love these pants.

I've made two pairs of wearable muslins from the (ugliest, oldest) stuff in my stash. (Figured I might be able to wear them as pj bottoms, lightweight cotton with wild patterns that I must have bought thinking I'd make sun dresses for my daughters when they were still really small!)

The first pair I did pretty much everything wrong, but they still ended up being really comfortable and look fine. I cut them on the cross grain (the fabric pattern looked better that way), managed to turn the back to the front (pattern matched better that way, plus I wasn't paying attention.) Etc., etc.

The second pair was made correctly, fits pretty well right off the pattern, and are actually flattering across my rear. I'm about to make a "for real" pair...but first, can I get some expert advice:

I made view A, straight leg, size small. I am 5 feet 3 in, if I stand up straight, and took about 2 inches off the length at the "shorten line." I sewed the back crotch about 1/4 in. deeper. I think I need to shorten the front crotch slightly. OK as is, but would feel better a bit shorter. I need the regular pattern length in the back, to cover my substantial rear, sigh. What's the best way to do this? I was just going to shorten the front crotch length from the top (moving down the waist casing a bit in front only), but is it better to take a "pie" out of the front seam (at the hipline marking?)  Another dumb question: I have a bit of a swayback. If I put the pleats in the back of the pattern would this help get rid of fabric excess at the waist...and is the difference enough to make it worth the extra work?

What kind of fabric should I look for? I'm thinking silk crepe type...as I need a pair of dressy, but comfortable and versatile basic black pants. I'll wear them most of the time as my choir "uniform" with different colored tops.  How much stretch should the fabric have? The woven cotton I used has none, and feels really good. I don't want these to get baggy or wrinkly if I wear them alot, or have to sit for a while. Would a washable poly be better...or even a really light weight wool? Don't want to send these to the dry cleaner, if avoidable.

Louise, watch for my order...I want those 2 little extra booklets about this pattern!

In reading through this thread Louise mentions Eileen Fisher pants. Despite hating elastic waist pants, I do admit that I own three pairs of EFisher pants with elastic ...which I bought hoping to find some RTW pants that actually fit. I ordered three different sizes (petite, regular, etc.). They are really expensive, well made, nice fabric. In the "it fits and feels good" category, however, my one-seams straight off the paper pattern are the clear winners! So looks like I will be making my own pants in the future...

[PatTM]

I love Louise's One Seam pant pattern!  I try others (not elastic waist), but always come back to this one.   For me,  I have found that if I follow Louise's  fitting directions exactly, and use the correct type of elastic I end up with a very good looking pant that will rival any high end fashion designer's.  As good as EF, Eskandar, etc.   I find it really hard to justify paying $200 to over $1,000 for a pant when I can make these so easily.
The other key is fabric- drapey!  Although I guess you could use cotton or similar I don't think that will achieve the Look you want.

Also, I have found the In the Trenches skirt has the same fitting characteristics as the pant in regard to the waistline, hip curve.  It is also pegged just a bit.  Best looking straight skirt pattern I have found and believe me I have tried them all!  Again, you do need drapey fabric and close attention to Louise's instructions.    This woman is a wonder and a treasure to all of us who want to sew high end fashion!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Well, 19 hours and two day of driving later, we are now in the hotel close to the convention center for the sewing event in Dallas this week.

My goodness, you are all so kind about the pants. I am glad we have gotten more converts! It is always fun to see how ladies enjoy the pants and then compare them to R-T-W and see the savings...and the better fit, and the number they can, make and the colors to match, and the savings, and, and, and.

I will report on the show tomorrow...it looks like a good one. Good night to all, till later, Louise

[mom2five]

See you tomorrow Louise!!!  I'll have my camera with me in case you want pictures of your booth.

angel