Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[Ann C]

Terri,  I've done that type of piecing also - though not on the One Seams!  Sort of reminds me of the piecing done on  TOL men's pants (done on purpose for ease I believe).    I've put a seam down the side before when really pressed for fabric - truly not one seams any longer - but they have the comfort of the one seams!  Your pants sound really fabulous! 

[marciae]

YEARS ago - Roberta Carr was 'teaching' that method on Burda patterns - really does use a lot less fabric.  I'd totally forgotten about doing that!!  Thanks!

[Martha]

I've done the piecing with a number of one-seams - it has always worked out fine when I'm in a pinch for fabric width.

[Doris W. in TN]

Hi Louise, I have a question for you.   A friend in my ASG chapter and I were discussing your One Seam Pant pattern the other day.  I love mine and she said hers were a disaster.   She purchased her OSP from your booth this past March at the Atlanta Sewing Expo.  She said hers came out bigger than the pattern, had to cut it down a size, and that the numbers on page 2 of the instruction sheet didn't match up with the pattern.   . . . while I said mine came out perfect.   

We were a  class today and we each brought our OSP patterns to compare, and  Louise . . . there is a discrepancy that we cannot figure out.    Both our sheets have the same Hips(Body)  and Hips(Pants) numbers, but the assigned "SIZE"  column for those measurements  is different, along with the "PATTERN CROTCH" AND THE "UNFINISHED PANTS LENGTH"  numbers---they're different from my pattern instruction sheet.

Our pattern tissues (the one we cut & sew) look identical 0 with sizes ranges from XS to XL.   My page 2 of the instruction sheet has the same range of sizes.   Her page 2 shows a range from SM  to XL+ and we are quite confused.   Her pattern instruction sheet on
page 2 shows a SM for the same size that mine shows XS.  That explains why she ended up with pants larger than what she needed.   

Can you help us out with what happened here on the pattern sheet?      Thanks!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

This was brought to my attention and I found it interesting that most of the instructions in the run were correct and but some were one size off on page 2 of the instructions. All from the same 2000 printing run! The sizing chart that is on the pattern for both the straight leg and tapered are correct. The pattern has just been reprinted...I think that now makes it 42,000 copies in print, and before it went to press, but..after the Atlanta sewing expo, I went over all the sizes with a fine tooth comb knowing that there was gong to be another 2000 pattern run.

After becoming aware of the sizing error, I tried to go through the remaining patterns and pull the ones that had the wrong sizing chart, I though I have gotten all of them.

I am sorry that your ASG friend received an incorrect one. How are her pants fitting now that she went down a size?

I'm here to help when I can. till later, Louise 

[marciae]

Louise - IF I were to cut my one seams apart at the grain line - add SA - take "some" off the top - could/would I end up with a pant that would fit "about" the same?  I love the way the OS fit - and the elastic waist - but I could use up several smaller pieces of fabric - I probably have other elastic waist patterns that I could use - but want to do it 'this' way!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

IF I were to cut my one seams apart at the grain line - add SA - take "some" off the top - could/would I end up with a pant that would fit "about" the same?  I love the way the OS fit - and the elastic waist - but I could use up several smaller pieces of fabric - I probably have other elastic waist patterns that I could use - but want to do it 'this' way!!

Yes, the grain line is the side of the pants. So if you cut them apart you would add 5/8" to both the front and back. My question is why are you taking 'some off the top'...is the crotch too low? The 2 booklets go into doing all kinds of stuff (I'm sure that is a sewing term) to the waist casing.

Other elastic waist pants are not this draft...and it is all in the draft that makes about 99% of the fitting problems go away. You can always add or subtract along the grainline of the tissue to have a custom fit. This way, the pants are exactly how you like them to fit...closer to the body or a bit fuller.

Well, I fooled around on the back patio and around the front of the house trimming and 'dead heading'...now it is back to step-by-step sample making for the DVD before I leave for 4 Women of Design.

Tomorrow is getting all the ladies who signed up for the Oct retreat with Susan Khalji into their own files and originized...the retreat is filled with a waiting list. Then it is packing patterns and booklets for my 2 days of teaching in Cleveland and get them outta here...and then more sample making. So I better hustle before Twinkie starts to help me type, last night I almost bought somehting on e-bay with his help. 

till later, Louise

[marciae]

"Taking some off the top" - - was having a DUH moment!  What I was thinking was that I wouldn't be able to do the top as it was originally because I had split the pattern vertically    I really did not want to come back and explain that question but thought I really should.  Seems like my brain is on total overload and not thinking clearly - and maybe it isn't even thinking!!   I love the fit of my OS's - I have another TNT pant pattern but all in all the OS fits and looks better on me.

Thanks Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

After you cut out your fabric F & B...the first thing you would do is sew up the side seams. Now you the one seam pants pattern again...so the top casing doesn't change. You can also think about cutting the One Seam pants cross grain...but you always want to check how it will hang...gather the fabric at your waist and look at your self in the mirror. The cross and lengthwise grain will sometimes hang differently. If the fabric hangs straight down the front of your body, you can cut the pattern cross grain...usually the 2 5/8" layout can be done in 2 yards.

till later, Louise

[Doris W. in TN]

How are her pants fitting now that she went down a size?

They look great, after she had to take them apart and cut them down.

Louise,  did the printer take artistic license with the Finished Pant Length and Finished Crotch measurements  as well?  Those are different, too, on her instruction sheet.   I never would have believed it if I had not seen it for myself.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Louise,  did the printer take artistic license with the Finished Pant Length and Finished Crotch measurements  as well?  Those are different, too, on her instruction sheet.

Thousands of copies have been printed correctly every time there has been a reprint. Somehow, the 2000 printing run before the current one, had the sizing chart on page 2 incorrectly print the measurements on some of the instructions. These incorrect measurements were from the very first proof years ago. They had been corrected when I received that proof and double checked everything, changed what needed to be changed including the measurements. There would have been no reason to look over the instructions after all these reprints. Plus, many of the instructions  in that run were printed correctly, but some had the original measurement error show up.

All the measurements are correct on the tapered and straight leg tissue pattern piece and always were. They have always been right. Now, one run a few years back (of 2000) the printer wrapped 2 straight leg patterns and put them in one envelope and 2 tapered leg pattern tissues in the other envelope....the whole batch was thrown out and I was sent new 'guts'....that was a fun week of pulling out one set of tissue and replacing it with another.

But as Gilda Radner used to say..."It's always something"!  till later, Louise

[lkj040]

Hi.  I'm new to the board, but not Louise's patterns.  I absolutely LOVE them! 
I am having a problem with the waistline elastic in the one-seams, though.
I'm using Stretch-Rite Sports elastic and cutting it a full 12" shorter than my waist but after stitching through it, it always stretches out so much that the pants almost fall off of me.  Even steaming it doesn't bring the waist back to the desired size.
I'm buying the elastic from Joanne's.  Is this different from the elastic on Louise's web site?
I'm making 4 rows of stitching through the elastic.  Would it be better if I only did 3?
Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Linda

[Ann C]

Linda,

In desperation, I bought some of the Joann's own brand and it is no where as good as the "real thing".  At the time, they didn't have any of the actual Stretch Rite and now they only carry it in the small packages - none on the bolt.  It does make a good bit of difference, not nearly as good a quality.  What type of fabric are you making the pants out of?  A heavier fabric will pull out the elastic also.  I've never had to cut my elastic that much smaller.

ETA: I love her patterns too!

[Yknot]

Ann C,

So is the Stretch Rite in the small packages the same quality as Louise uses?  I was going to try some of it.  I've actually never had good luck with sew through elastic.

Pam

[lkj040]

Ann:
Thank you for the response.  It was actually the Stretch Rite brand in the small package that used.
I've made several practice pairs with different types of fabrics (all lightweight).  I even made a pair from Brussels Washer Linen.  The fabric is beautiful, but I can't wear the pants because I'm constantly pulling them up all day.
I'm really dreading taking out all that stitching just to take in the elastic.......
Linda

[Ann C]

I always used to buy the Stretch Rite on the bolt at Joann's and never had any trouble with it, but did with the Joann's brand later.  I have since used the Stretch Rite in the small package and it did all right.  Stretch Rite is the brand Louise recommends.  Joann's doesn't carry the Stretch Rite brand on the bolt any longer.   

Could you possibly have your rise length too short?  This would pull them down when you sit and make them where you would have to pull up on them.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

'Mornin' all...I am back from '4 Women' (we are already starting to work on the next one in what will 12-18 months away) and my weekend teaching at Janie's Sewing Corner in Cleveland.

I'm home until next Monday when I fly to CT for filming, the following week fly to AL to film with Martha Pullen and then back to Cleveland to film with Sue Hausmann and that was the month that was.

Now...Stretch-rite Sports Elastic.  I too have spotted the small light teal box of elastic at my local Joann's. I turned the box on all sides to see who might have 'private-labeled' it for them...there was nothing except the line that says Joann's or their e-mail address (I can't remember it has been months since then), but the white spool of Stretch-rite Sports Elastic was still in the shelf at the bottom of the elastic area, so I didn't think anything about it. The blister packs of elastic that size (1 1/2" wide) are usually not purchased as quickly as the narrower packages having 3 to 4 yards in a pack. So, the wider blister packs of elastic might be old.

I have had a piece of Stretch-rite Sports Elastic that is about 25" long as a teaching sample for my lecture that has been stretched for years and have never had a problem with it stretching out. When I trim up the ends of fuzzies, I measure it to see if it has stretched out. I always tell the students to get the 1 1/2" and not the 1 1/4" wide from the same company. The narrower has different properties in the elastic and does not come back into it's original size like the wider one.

I have ladies say they don't want a 1 1/2" waist band of elastic up their ribcage...don't worry, the waist casing slides down onto the hips every so slightly and you will have about a 1" waist casing of elastic. That sliding down gives you the crotch ease needed for sitting and walking. I worked it all out for you before hand.

If you are able to buy it at independent fabric stores around the country, on the end of the white spool it will say Stretch-rite Sports Elastic and the call letters are SS98. Then you know you are getting the real thing. Know also, you are always able to order it from me. I order 10 to 20 spools (25yds per) at a time. I sell it out so quickly.

Now over to the other chat to see what is going on. later, Louise...Twinkie has been so busy trying to type.
 

[lkj040]

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions on the Stretch-Rite elastic.  I ordered some from Louise's web site.  That should solve my problem.
Thanks again for your help!

[Carole]

I have to say, I just finished my first pair of pants using elastic ordered from Louise's website, and never, ever, ever have I had such a comfortable fit.  And very quick service I might add.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Thanks Carole for having such a sucessful first adventure into One Seam Land! till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I cut and pasted this from the other chat

And a Capri question...I am making carpi One-seams out of black linen.  I took Louise's class on One-seams a while ago and remember Capri's that were darted or pleated at the bottom hem but cannot find my notes.  I seem to remember her showing some black linen Capri's.   If I remember correctly, the darts were 6" long and about 1" apart.  Is this right?  I also remember something about the darts being 10" long but maybe that was in pant legs.  Anybody know?   Was there also ones that had pleats at the hem instead of darts and I am confusing them?  I really wish I could find my notes.

The rest of the plan is one more pair of One-seams in the olive mystery fabric, a  simple twin set out of a black/gold/olive/rust paisley knit, and a simple mint green slit neck tee made from Siltex cotton interlock.  I am thinking of making some jewelry to match.  I am really having fun with this.  I would post the drawing I did of my plan but cannot find the information on how to post pictures.  TIA for any help offered.

The black linen ones had darts on the outside of the pant leg...using the straight pant style. The hem was already put in the pants...and they were about ankle length when finished.  The darts were about 6" long and about 1" wide. The pants had about 6-8 darts (depending on your size) equally spaced around the bottom. Starting with the grain line as one of the darts and the inseam...the center of the dart ...the fold line was the inseam...then either 2 more or 3 more in the front of the leg and the back of the leg.

I detailed this in one of the booklets...but here it is for you.

Maybe someone can jump in and advise you on how to post pictures....not my strong suit either. Well, back to drafting. till later, Louise

[fzxdoc]

Maybe someone can jump in and advise you on how to post pictures....not my strong suit either. Well, back to drafting. till later, Louise

Louise, there is a tutorial on photo posting, which you can find here.  After you've read the info, head to the Sandbox topic here and start to play.  One or the other of us admins or the mod is usually around and will be happy to help you post photos.  It's like riding a bike--once you've learned it, you won't forget!    See you at the Sandbox!

Kathryn

[BarbW]

I haven't visited this site in some time, but I wanted to let everyone know  about a trick I learned from Louise at SewExpo in Puyallup, WA. last spring. 

I've made several pairs of OS's & love them all, and I've used mostly linen.  I had noticed that, after wearing them for several hours, the seat would bag out & look not-so-good.  I asked Louise how to fix this. She said to cut the pattern as usual, then press, press press with lots of steam the back crotch/inseam area out on the bias (toward the point of the crotch), then lay the pattern over the 'stretched'  fabric, and re-cut.  This removes some excess.  It worked!  I've made two new linen pairs, and have not had the problem.  I took the black pair on a trip to France recently, and after wearing them all day, they still looked pretty good from the rear.  Thank you, Louise!

I don't know if you've already talked about this on this thread, so I apologize if I'm repeating the news here.  But it's information worth knowing, I think!

[Susan in Saint John]

BarbW,

Thank you so much for posting this.  I'd made a pair of linen one seams and they fit perfectly fresh out of the wash but by the end of the day they were baggy.  I'll try this next time.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am back from filming with Sue Hausmann and getting ready to cut 110 sets of samples for the Sit and Sew's around the country. With so little time in between shows this summer, today is the day...that is a lot of fabric and a lot of organizing to make sure everything is in each box, plus giving the tie to ship to the venue.

While in Cleveland (studio location) I spend the rest of day after filming at Janie's Sewing Spot (nice fabric store, if you are in the area) helping ladies who know I was planning to spend the afternoon there before my flight in the late evening.

The owner, Janie, out of the blue, said the linen pants she had on fit beautifully in the morning when she puts them on and then start to bag/sag out throughout the day. I told her about the same hint you printed here, BarbW.

The show with Sue had the 'slant' toward ironing and pressing....I knew Sue had a wonderful collection on vintage sewing machines...both adult and child...but she also has a great collection of antique irons. Some stock footage was previously filmed at her home on her collection, but on the program she showcased irons and stoves to heat the irons, one made of cast iron (it had a little door to place 'linen' balls to be lit to create the heat, it also had a little drawer for the ashes to collect). Also on the show she had one of the original travel irons that, instead of a plug at the end of the cord was a light bulb base so it could be screwed into a light socket. The iron was about 4" long and had it own leather travel case, lined in red velvet. It had a spot for about 8 closepins to be placed on a velvet ribbon.

I asked when the show was scheduled to be on and all I was told was sometime in the Fall.

Well, time to get busy cutting, till later, Louise

[lakestitcher]

Louise ---- if you're still around today...................on Martha Pullens site there were some pictures posted of you and MP recently. I'm guessing when you were there filming her show. You had on a luscious lime green top. What was the pattern? And where did you find that beautiful fabric?  Was it one of yours that I missed? 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHhhhhhh....you are good....I had no idea that it was on her website. That is one part of the new pattern 'Ebb & Flo' that was my muslin. As far as the fabric, it is a kiwi colored linen...I never make a muslin out of muslin. I figured the show would not air until the fall sometime so I would be safe wearing it. Guess not!

It is in early production, Sandy and I cut over 110 kits for the next 3 show (sit & sews) today....and will stat to pack all the patterns, booklets and fabrics for heading out to Arlington, TX...then the HGA in Tampa....home about 6 days and then repack a van for a drive to the ASG in Chicago, Bernina University, the dealer show in Kansas this year....then I fly to Huntsville to do the School of Art Fashion with Martha Pullen...as I understand my school is filled with a waiting list....then home for one day and fly to Tulsa to do the retreat with Linda Lee. And that is the rest of June and July...eek

That said, I will get to the patterns in August and hope to have them out in October. I have been getting fabric in for the past few weeks for the different shows....infact some arrived today...but have had no time to open the boxes.

Well, all the kits are cut, put into their various plastic bags and into the correct boxes for the different shows...I'm going to make sure  'the couch doesn't move' for awhile...and with one of the kitties on my lap...it won't. till later, Louise

[lakestitcher]

Well if that's a "muslin" ...........can't wait to see the pattern! Thanks for the "peek"! You looked fab!
I really NEED some of that Kiwi linen! 

[Terri K]

Lakestitcher,   I'd love to see the photos you're referring to.   Always interested in seeing some sneak peaks at Louise's designs.   I couldn't find it on the MP site, so could you please post a link?   Thanks so much!

Louise - sounds like June and July are a blur of activity.   I may drop in to the HGA since I need to get down to visit my mom and sister in the Tampa area later this month.   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I too tried to find it...couldn't....hope you can post the link.

And on the other note, the HGA has a ton of stuff up on their website now, along with pictures of what each artist does....I got lost for quite awhile the other evening. I'm going to post the link over on the other chat area to HGA.

I have a few minutes this morning to get my things in order before Sandy comes to help me get all the shows products packed. Then we have to look over the different venues to see what tables need to be ordered for each weekend rental.

see you over on the other chat...till later, Louise

[LindaE]

I not lakestitcher but I think I found the picture.  http://www.marthapullen.com/newsletter/images/tv08-28.jpg

Hope this helps.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Yes, that is it...boy, it doesn't show much though...lakestitcher and LindaE you have really good eyes to see thta it doesn't look like any of my other patterns.

Gaud, do I look tired. I was up at the crack of dawn to fly, arrive in Bermingham, AL, had to rent a car and drive to Tuscalossa about an hour or so away. Find my way to the studio on the campus of the Universily of AL. I had not had breakfast or lunch yet, was asked if I could do the 7 minute tip and techniques section for a new video Martha was doing....that filming was on the schedule for the next day. OK, well while we are here, lets film the two different sections for the two different programs that you were planning also doing tomorrow...OK, now lets take the picture at the end of everything...about 18 hours after getting up and going. 

OK, now I really have to go to work!. Louise

[lakestitcher]

Yes, that's it!!! Thanks LindaE. Isn't that fabric yummy? And I love the drape around the neck. Can't wait to see the pattern.
I've been outside watering this morning, it's hot, hot and dry here in AL!!!! Now trying to cool off and surf a bit.   

[Linda 75142]

Browsing e-bay I found http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=150255833813&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=005 this one seams pant pattern from the 70's.  Who knew??? 1970's one seams --scroll down to see the line drawings.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

There is nothing new under the sun...except the drafting, drape, and fit. I think the 'One-Seam Pants' might have been unearthed with the Bog Coat 2000BC!

When I teach the 'One-Seam Pants' I show the crotch seam matching at the tip, so the students can see just how narrow the depth of the body of the garment actually is. In looking at the little drawing this draft is extra narrow and in a size 14.... I love to see patterns like this...interesting that the tunic also has no side seams.

The finished tunic hem width in the size 14 is 42"....I bet the pants aren't even 40" around the hips.

You made my day...thanks for the link. till later, Louise