Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[LyndaC]

Hi, Louise, I wonder if you still send fabric swatches?  I just started a class for Oneseams, and I would like to share your fabric selection with the ladies if you have time. I truly don't know how you accomplish what you do unless you just don't sleep - or eat, so I understand if you don't have time.  Hope all is well.

Lynda

[LOUISE CUTTING]

wonder if you still send fabric swatches?  I just started a class for Oneseams, and I would like to share your fabric selection with the ladies if you have time. I truly don't know how you accomplish what you do unless you just don't sleep - or eat, so I understand if you don't have time.

Eek...the fabric sending via the internet just ended on Firday...for the past 2 weeks I don't think I did anything else...Oh ya...in the middle had to write a new article I was assigned from Threads...it will be in an upcoming 'Couture' issue. My article is on all the resources that the top designers use for various parts of their couture level garments, custom made belts, buttons, shoes, flowers, hats...etc....so between the answering requests for more fabric pages and looking for resources, this meant I never left the computer or phone. As I found various sources I had to call and talk to the head person to (if nothing else...fine that they were still in business)...so many in NYC and around the country are gone.


As far as the fabric scanning went...I sent out a broadcast e-mail around the 13th of the month, but I had already scanned in 14 different pages with about 10-12 fabrics per page and as I received an e-mail sent pages and pages to any and all who wanted to see them.....as they just kept e-mailing me, I would send another page...NO...don't do it now....many fabrics are sold out and in 48 hours I am outta here for the next month! . It will happen again...but after all the fall trips. I have faric on order to arrive late Oct.

Sandy will send orders out...there have been a ton for the 'Paper Dolls' because of the article in Threads, and with the 2 new booklets and the patterns they are seeing in the article. So, it will be business a usual, just Sandy will be filling orders and I will have my laptop with me to answer questions as you need them. But, it is off to Nantucket for the month and 30 degree cooler weather. Friends coming to the house and great days snoop shopping, needlepointing, working on the new pattern...it has to go with me...I don't want it to get a month behind...it is so close...plus another article for Threads that had to be put on hold while I did the one they wanted first. 

Cats have been in and out of the suitcase...they both know something is up. Housekeeper moves in while I am gone as she does when I am on the road with the teaching assingments and the vet tech comes every other day as a back up.

So, I have a few more things to do...till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Saw a cool bottom to a skirt that can be used above the hem of the One-Seams...but will report later...got home from vacation very late last night and have fires to put out here at the house (lightening struck some stuff). Will report on my findings as soon as I see the light of day.

till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Welcome back Louise!    Was perusing the fall 2007 Eskandar catalog from Neiman Marcus yesterday while contemplating fabrics, colors and coordinates to sew.  Boy oh boy are the prices high.    And this was before the latest US currency decline.   I've had this book at least a month     There isn't a sweater or jacket under $1,000.   I have a piece of basketweave wool in dark blue and black that I thought this type of jacket would be interesting in.    This is from the NM online Eskandar which doesn't have all the catalog outfits

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The One Seam Pant idea...just in! Also think of this idea to be used on some of the jackets too.Along the entire grain line...about every 4" or so inches place 2 buttonholes about 1" - 1 1/2" apart and make the button holes about 1" wide. Weave 7/8" ribbon in and out the button holes...think of heirloom 'beading' for adults....a holiday tuxedo pair in black silk or a wool crepe with a black satin ribbon woven along the grain line...try that for making you look taller and thinner! But, don't stop there, some of the great ribbons out there, and make a pair on One Seams out of a fabric that would go with one of the woven beauties you now find in ribbons.

On the ABO or BPD jackets do the same idea completely over the whole jacket Weave ribbons completely up and down the front, back and sleeves of the jackets. The ribbons don't have to be as wide...maybe different widths and colors.

On the jackets and pants,  I would tack the ribbon to the back side of the buttonhole with a hand stitch just so the ribbon doesn't catch on anything and get pulled.

Have fun...till later, Louise 

[vtmartha]

I have a pants fitting question which I am posting here, not because it is unique to OSP, but because I am working on a pair right now.  Whenever I make a pair of pull on pants or skirt, I seem to have a lot of extra fabric at the front waist (too much rise) and not enough at the back (too short a rise).  I'm talking several inches!  My fitting solution has been to add extra at the waist (greater rise) and then to trim the pants to fit along a piece of elastic at the waist.  I'm about to adjust the pattern to reflect these changes but then I thought I should see if I am altering these correctly.  I have no idea why I need to make this change.  I have a fairly flat seat and a not outrageous tummy.  It's as though, to hang correctly, the inseam needs to be more forward on me than the pattern expects.  If that's the case, I probably should extend the back crotch point but doing so seems more complicated and I'd like to do it correctly.
Thanks for your help.  I'm heading to a sewing class this weekend - my first - and realized I have nothing to wear!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have suggested in the past...I know someone will know exactly where it is on all these many pages...but cut from the CB seam on the pattern tissue along the horizontal hip line to the grain line and from the center front to the grain line...and slide tissue under the front section the top of the pattern will work like a 'see-saw' what ever you go up in the front the pattern will over lap in the back. Try to put no more than 3/4" in this adjustment and let me know. You just tip in the oposite way than the pattern.

back to work...keep me posted. Louise

[vtmartha]

You just tip in the oposite way than the pattern.

Why doesn't this surprise me?     Thanks, Louise.

[LyndaC]

Neat idea, Louise, about the ribbon!   Actually, I did something similar to that several years ago with your Oneseams.   I made them in a silk crepe and topstitched a narrow satin ribbon down the grain line.  I used a chalkoneer to keep my line straight.  Kind of looks like a tuxedo pant.

When you start with a good fit...

[Brine]

Louise, I just made my first  pair of One Seams (the straight leg ones) and although I was mostly pleased with the fit I have one problem area; they sag a bit below the seat. Pulling them up a bit makes the back hang better, but then the front waist is too high and the crotch length too short. I know I shouldn't make the alteration at the waist, but if I make it at the hip line how would I correct the grain line? Also, should I scoop out the back crotch to compensate for shortening the back crotch length?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

You will want to cut along the hip line from CB to CF, leaving a hinge at the CF of the hip line. Overlap the upper portion of the pants pattern over the lower portion about 3/4" at the center back. This will form a very long thin pie shape along the hip line. You won't do any thing about the grain line. Follow the grain line that is in the lower portion of the pants pattern. This will hike up the back, but it will leave the front the same...you want to get rid of the extra at the back, so don't do anything about scooping out the crotch.

 Lots to do before I get going to Asheville. till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290184552611&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:GB:1123

This e-bay has ended, but scroll down to the bottom of the page to see a great detail that could be put on the One Seam pants...or a long straight skirt like the side of ITT. The site thas some very unusual clothing...interesting to some, and too way other for others...but in this case, look at details not the whole garment or multi layers...its all in the details.

off to get things done. Louise

[Terri K]

Thank you Louise.   Here's some of the photos:



  I love ebay for ideas too.   Don't you love that she tells us exactly how to do it too!

[Alice in Bama]

Terri,

 your so talented I love see your work Great job you did on these pants ! I need to get back in the sewing mode myself
been in after christmas blach Had unexpected guest show up yesterday so that day was shot

Alice

[Terri K]

Hi Alice, those weren't my photos, Louise found them on ebay and posted to show that interesting tab & pleat you could add to them.    Here's a photo of a pair of mine showing the great fit you get using Louise's measurements for them.     These are in a silk crepe from Waechter's.    Oh, and I'm going to be in Tampa the end of February and agreed to help Louise out at her booth at the Tampa expo, starting Feb 21,  if anyone is going to be there, please plan on stopping by and saying hello!

[lessalt]

I loved that link that Louise provided and have added it to my favorite sellers. I have always loved Eskandar and Shirin Guild which is why I love Louise's & Sewing Workshop patterns. While some of the clothes were a little overwhelming there was a wealth of ideas there. Terri the pants look great.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

i JUST COMING UP FOR AIR...OOPS, CAP lock left on...I have the 2 sewing retreats starting next Thursday with Linda Lee. Today was getting the menu planned for the cocktail party and dinner party...after cooking for one and then cooking on a grand scale over a two week period for over 60 is a little different. I'm sure they don't all want to eat a peanut butter sandwich over the kitchen sink!

I have gotten the velum for the new pattern off to the printer...it will look great with the One Seams by the way...but what doesn't...eek...did I say that!...bad, louise, bad, louise...

I'm starting to get the fabric I been ordering for the retreats, Tampa and Atlanta. The show promoter scheduled Sandy and my class one right after the other and Sandy is teaching a 3 hour hands on applique class..good class if you haven't taken it yet...and Terri has been nice enough to jump in with her scissors and help cut that first morning...if any of you have hit the booth on the first day...that is when all the good stuff is still there. So all hands on deck!

Well, I am off to get the sewing room back in order...this always happens after a pattern is complete...the room looks...well, not straightened up...I always try to keep things in order...I've found I don't have time to look for stuff.

I too like the website from the gal in England...really ususual stuff...it might be a bit 'fashion forward' OK...so some of the stuff is really fashion fooooorwardddd...but, I always look at bits and pieces of things...like the side of the pants that were posted...just a cool detail. And it could be put on the side of pants, skirt, or even a longer tunic...it just the detail. Then it is up to you to go play.

If some of my tops, blouses, tunics or jackets are a bit large for you or larger than you would like for your body...I wrote a quick way to pull in a top on the other 'thread' that might help. I always suggest to look at something in your closet that is similar in style and try your garment on and see if you like the way it fits...then take the circumference body measurements and find the size similar in the pattern...you don't have to go by the sizing chart...that is just a suggestion...your allow to have the final say...see, there is your New Years Resolution..."it's all about ME (YOU)"

OK...I'm off to across the hall and fight the sewing room.

till later, if I don't get back today...have a great New Years...I might even see midnight...or not  

[Alice in Bama]

Dear Terri,

          Well your pants look as good as the ones on e bay My grandson is calling you the lady in the flowers . He is 4 years old
I will not be at the Tampa expo . You are so lucky to get to work with Louise and here all the advice she gives everybody.
I will be at the Atlanta expo can't wait .

Louise

 True you did let it slip  but you did not say if it was a tunic or a  blouse ,or some kind of Jacket so I guess will just have be patient
and wait till it's  on your web site.

Alice

[marciae]

I made two pair of one seams to wear on our recent trip.  I had so many compliments as to how "good" they looked.  They were very comfortable while driving home, too!!  I plan on making some soon in a very light weight wool.

[Terri K]

Marcia, make some in a wool with a little stretch if you have some.  I live in pants with a bit of stretch woven in     I really need to make a replacement pair for these black rayon/poly/lycra ones I wear around the house but they still look so good.    Hint - use that laundry detergent for black & dark washable fabrics.  I believe it has some dye in it so the fabrics don't turn gray on you.

Alice, sorry I didn't comment before, but I loved your grandson's description.    I've been up in the sewing room finishing up my jacket and took a break to press out some fabric for more of these.    It was a good day to hang fabric on the line but it sure got cold with that wind.

[Alice in Bama]

Marcia, make some in a wool with a little stretch if you have some.  I live in pants with a bit of stretch woven in     I really need to make a replacement pair for these black rayon/poly/Lycra ones I wear around the house but they still look so good.    Hint - use that laundry detergent for black & dark washable fabrics.  I believe it has some dye in it so the fabrics don't turn gray on you.

Alice, sorry I didn't comment before, but I loved your grandson's description.    I've been up in the sewing room finishing up my jacket and took a break to press out some fabric for more of these.    It was a good day to hang fabric on the line but it sure got cold with that wind.

 You sure have been a busy sewing and posting lately when do you have time to sleep

[dianeS]

I'm signed up for the One Seam Pants class  with Louise at Sewing Expo in Puyallup, is anyone else going?

[LyndaC]

I am going.  PLEASE go by Louise's booth quickly, as she sells out of the best fabrics quickly.   We are all so hungry for quality fabric and know we can depend on her.  You will enjoy her classes and her personality.  Hang on to her every word.

[makeupmaven]

I am going to the expo for the first time, but not taking the one seam class.  I signed up for 14 other classes and got them all!

Any advice on the expo appreciated.

Gail

[sewmom]

Hi Gail:

Are you going for more than one day? There are MANY vendors and it takes time to walk through and see the lay of the land.  The past two years I have gone Louise has not brought fabric to sell; last year she had buttons and her patterns and books. I don't know why she didn't have fabric. I hope she does this year!

There is a bag check for about $1.00 or so and it is VERY worth it than hawling around heavy bags of fabric all day. That would be my advice 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi gang...been down with a very bad cold this week. Plus had to get all the boxes ready to go to Tampa, Puyallup, Atlanta, and the retreat in CT...I only have at the most 2 days between coming home and off again...except for the trip home from Puyallup and off to Atlanta...that is about 16 hours...redeye home, pack a van and start to drive to Atlanta to get ready to set up. So everything had to be done for shows a month out.

I am sorry I will not have fabric in Puyallup...I bring the whole shooting match when I can drive to an event. The cost of shipping fabric all the way across the country would be cost prohibitive. 15 boxes left on Thursday for the Puyallup expo...eek! $600 in charges one way...and that was with no fabric. When I shipped to the ASG event in Calif last summer, the round trip for fabric, patterns, buttons, booklets was around $3000+...I hope if flew first class.!..and a very important box was lost on the way out...and was never recovered...everyone down the line was pointing the finger at someone else in the transportation of the boxes. Add in the cost of 2 flights (this year 3), the 2 booth's cost, renting the tables...you could buy 5 times as many tables as what it costs to rent them for 4 days, renting the electic and phone lines...another big expense (about $400 combined), now add the hotel room and food for 6 days time 3 people...you get the life of a gypsy. Sewing venues  and sewing retreats seem to be the only was that the love of this industry is staying alive. I have heard of 2 more great fabric stores that have closed at the first of the year. So sad.

If you are able to go to Puyallup, the third gal in the booth is a former student of mine. She is flying in to help out in the booth. She was one of my best students when I teaching college...Sandy and I are both teaching this year and by accident we are oposite each other...not good for booth coverage...anyway please come by and see us all. karen has some great storys of me as a teaher very early in my career.

I have been teaching at Puyallup for a numer of years and unlike many sewing expos...there is quite a few vendors with fabric...plus I seem always to spend some money at Pacific Fabrics when I am in their store before the event starts...as I am handing ove my credit card...i keep muttering why are you doing this...you can buy wholesale!!! But buy I do!

I will have garments in the fashion shows at each of the different sewing expos. Tampa, Puyallup, Atlanta...in Puyallup the clothes will be in the IPCA show and I will have 10 outfits in Linda Lee's 'Dressing for any Age' fashion show. That was a nice surprise of an invite.

Well, it is late on the east coast, a few more orders to process and the last of the sale items out tomorrow. The new pattern has been well received..I have been getting e-mails, which has made me feel good between tissues an looking at myself in the mirror. Can dark circles under your eyes really hit your chin?

I look forward to seeing you at the differnt shows.  Till later, before Twinkie hit a key as he has been resting his head on the whole left side of the key board and snooring..louise 

[Terri K]

Question about elastic "behavior".     I made a pair of the One-Seam pants from a TDF white rayon with a tiny herringbone stripe weave that she had in Tampa last night.   I got this fabric because all of Louise's bottom weight light fabrics are no-see-through.    I was out of the 1 1/2" elastic and had a 26" piece of 1-inch elastic that stretches twice it's length.   That's the length and width I use when I'm doing that "Hollywood waist" where you serge and then turn it under.    So I also cut an inch off the top of my pattern casing allowance when cutting out the pants.   

Inserted, top-stitched and WHOAA - the elastic in the casing is now humongous because the top-stitching of rows stretched it.    So, while my upstairs sewing room warms up after I turned on the heat up there, here I am ripping out the rows of top-stitching and will take up the elastic.    Argh!

[marciae]

Guess you couldn't "steam" it back into shape??  I've had pretty good luck - - so far.  I was out of elastic - from Louise - on my last pair.  I now have 10yrds coming!  Good luck!

[Terri K]

Thanks Marcia - Not sure it'll steam that much but I will try it.   I may remove this elastic and go get the type Louise sells in the 1" width that behaves the same.      I would have bought some from her in Tampa but her order didn't come before they had to pack up and leave so she didn't have any to sell. 

[Terri K]

Finished the pant earlier this evening.   I didn't have any sport elastic.   This is the 1" that stretches 2-1.  I took out the elastic and inspected it - no problems.  Then I cut off some, reinserted and did only one row of topstitching.    Looks and works fine now,  but at 25 degrees outside, it'll be a while before I wear those     But the Of The Moment jacket I'm now working on is a knit with a fleecy side from EOS that will be a cozy thing to wear until it warms up 

[LyndaC]

Hi, Terri,   I think you have just discovered the difference in Sport Elastic and all the others....you can stich directly anywhere on Sport Elastic and it will not pop and permanently expand.   Steaming wil restore it.    Not true with ANY other elastic.   I just had a sales clerk at Hancock tell me they were all the same, and I had a difficult time telling her that is not true.

[Susan in Saint John]

So please, how do you recognize sport elastic?

[LyndaC]

It will clearly say "Sport Elastic" on the package or on the roll.  If it says "pajama elastic" or siimilar, it means it has channels that you MUST stitch in.  This is intended to be applied by turning under your fabric at the top 1/4", and directly stitching the elastic to the fashion fabric so that the elastic is exposed on the inside.   You can then SEE where the channels are to stitch ONLY on them.  In the famous Oneseams, the elastic is hidden inside the fabric for a more finished look, so you can't see to stitch in the channels only.   So you MUST use Sport Elastic.  I am still locating it, but think I may have been successful.  Good luck!

[Terri K]

This is the photo and link of th 1 1/2" Stretch Rite elastic from Louise's website.   What I used (because I was out of the correct type) that stretched out by top-stitching is the elastic they call 2-1 stretch elastic and that didn't work at all!



Stretch Rite elastic on Cutting Line Design website

[Terri K]

Here's a tip for the layout of the One-Seam pant.    I bought a TDF piece of black Armani wool with a woven stripe for a pair at the Tampa Expo.   Based on the measurements, I make a size small of the straight pant and removed 1/2" from the vertical width.   As such,  I can make a pair of pants from a 1 1/2 yard piece of 60" fabric.    When I got the fabric ready to cut it was just shy of 60" with the selvedges.     I asked Louise what to do when I was in Atlanta and she said to piece the fabric and match up the grain at the corner of the back crotch where nobody will see the seam - VOILA!