Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Her measurements are 49" hip, 31.5" crotch length and 38" leg length

You want to make the tapered pant...for her height the straight leg will look more like an evening pant...nice for an occasion, but not for everyday.

Yes, she is going to be in the XL in the tapered style. The crotch is only 1/4" shorter than her...not enough to bother with.

Measure down on your daughter in the front from waist to mid knee. Find her knee cap and then measure down the front of the leg on the pattern and place a 'knee cap' dot. 

I think you are going to need to take the pants up in 3 different locations. First one at about mid thigh, the second one at just above the knee and the third on the lengthen/shorten line on the pattern.  take 2" out of each location...but double check that this is now going to be the right length for your daughter. You will have to 'true' up the inseam lines with a 'fashion ruler'  and yard stick along the whole length.

To see if the lines of the inseams are nicely curved and you don't have any lumps or bumps along the way, tape the pattern tissue up on a window or sliding galss door and stand back and squint your eyes...the long lines should be just a nice flowing line. This trick can be done with any pattern alteration to see if the outside lines flow nicely.

She's been wearing mostly stretch woven pants so she found them a bit tighter than what she's used to when she sat in them.  I thought I might add 1/2" to the width if the fabric did not have any stretch.  There was no excess fabric in the thigh which is what made me think that I should do the shortening below the knee.

With shortening up in the thigh area you will actually be increasing the circumference of the inseam lines...the lines from the crotch tip point drawn along the inseams will have to be a bit wider to be able to make the smooth line all the way down the pant inseams. If, after you make a first pair... NOTE TO ALL: never make a muslin out of muslin. It will never give you the look and drape of the pants....If the pants are still too tight, you can add  about 1/4" to 3/8" entirely along the grain line from the top raw edge to the raw edge of the hem.   

In the booklets there are several different panel pant styles...one even has a pocket in that side panel.

back to the drafting table. later, Louise

[mom2five]

I"ve been trying to fit my One Seam's and I'm either doing something wrong or I have the weirdest body in the world. 

The first pair I made was the tapered pair.  My measurments are hips-42, crotch-26.  I cut out the MD+ with the SM waist, added the waistband and then had to cut off 3 1/4" to make the crotch go where it was supposed to.  The length was perfect.  They were a little poofy around the hips and over the tummy but that might have been the fabric, I used a really lightweight denim-looking cotton, it was very drapey so I thought it would be okay... maybe I was wrong. 

The second pair was the straight leg, I cut out th MD with the SM waist, added the waistband and will need to cut off about the same amount (I haven't finished them yet) at the waist. The length looks good on these also.  I used a drapy poly something fabric because I couldn't find rayon... the people at the local chain fabric store didn't know what rayon was, how can you work at a fabric store and not know what rayon is? Anyway, the fabric is much better, not as poofy around the hips and only a little poofy around the tummy but that might just be my figure problems... I'm a size 10 and carry all of my weight in my tummy... that's the reward you get for having five children, isn't that lovely.

So, should I just forget about the waistband trouble and just cut them off where they need to be or do I need to make that adjustment somewhere else?  What cutting lines should I use to make the tapered pants fit better? 

Now that I have this in writing it doesn't seem like I'm having that many problems with it but the waistband has me really confused.

Thanks in advance for the help, I've really been enjoying this forum!!!  I'm so glad I found y'all!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

As I am sitting here making sure very heavy card stock is feeding through the printer at about 1 sheet per minute, I through I could answer and look  at the printer at the same time.

You kinda added two different things together...with you cutting out the MD+ that should have been your measurement across the top also...but with you taking it down to the SM waist, you actually took off some of the depth of crotch, but not all...now that you have exactly what you need there in both the tapered and straight...don't go back...lets just go forward from here. You got them to fit in this area...just going through the back door!

little poofy around the hips and over the tummy

If you would like them a bit more fitting your body, you can pinch out along the grainline of the tissue pattern completely from the top raw edge of the casing all the way to the bottom raw hem edge...knowing that what you are doing once is being done twice...left leg, right leg. Again, it could be the fabric you used in your test pair. You are small and young...grrr...never mind ... you might only need 3"-3 1/2" of ease in the tapered pair.

Again...check to see if you can take in the straight leg a bit around the circumference...the pants will not be form fitting like jeans around the tummy area...and if you are like just about everyone else...you see the poofy around the tummy area when you look down...all pants do that when you look down...

This pants is known as a 'skirted front'  in the drape...the pants will hang from the fullest part of the tummy and not tuck back in after the fabric is past the tummy. That is why you will have a bit more fabric in this area. But see if you are able to take a bit in along the grain lines of both tapered and straight.

Keep me posted.  Back to watching the printer.  Louise

[sewnurse1959]

Hi, I have just finished a tapered pair of One Seam Pants.  I plan to start on a pair of straight leg pants, but I noticed that the size cutting lines are different.  I take a Lg+; increase the back crotch 1 5/8"; decrease the front crotch 1 1/2"; and shorten the length 2". What size for the straight leg pants would you suggest.  I plan to use crepe since they will be an evening wedding.  Hips 47" and crotch 28 1/2" to 29".  Thanks , sewnurse

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm in the middle of cutting all the Sit & Sew samples for the ASG convention, but I though I better answer this one.

I take a Lg+; increase the back crotch 1 5/8"; decrease the front crotch 1 1/2"; and shorten the length 2".

First...do they fit? Second...how did you do the change for the tipping along the top of the waist?   Third...does your body tilt from back to front this much? Just let me know so I can advise you for the straight leg.

Right now, I would place you in the LG  for the straight leg and take the waist down 1 1/2" completely across the top before attaching the casing tissue pattern piece. You will get your length after you have made the waist adjustments. I would make a first pair out of an inexpensive crepe similar in weight and drape of the evening wedding pair first.

Keep me posted.

back to cutting, Louise

[sewnurse1959]

Thanks for answering me so fast. The pants fit great. I do what you suggest for the tilted wasit in the purple book. The waist line is higher in the back and lower in the front for short waisted me and fluffy bottom. Sewnurse

[LOUISE CUTTING]

The waist line is higher in the back and lower in the front for short waisted me and fluffy bottom

Hmmm...I sure know that figure You might need to do the same tilt for the straight pants...but you will need to get rid of the 1 1/2" first then tilt if you need to. I glad the purple book helped.

Samples are cut...onto making prototypes of one of the new patterns. later, Louise

[Linda 75142]

I just finished a pair of (long) one seam capris.  I used Louise's method of a hem slit.  I LOVE this look and it's oh so easy.  Photo
here

More info at my blog if you are so inclined. 

[Terri K]

Linda, your capris are sooo neat looking.   Coincidentally,  I was just looking at that technique in the booklet last night after reading about all the variations of these pants you gals are making.    I love crop pants for summer   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Linda, the capris look wonderful...that is such a great detail. It is so easy to do and add so much to the look of the  pants.

Well, I seemed to have hit the wall...the kitties have looked in the office several times...hmmm...what do they know that I should know...ya, it's 11:30 here in the east and I have put in another 16 hour day. till later, Louise 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm bringing this to the top so those whating help with fitting will find it here. Louise

[RobbieJo]

Louise, this is sort of a fitting question.  I've lost weight and my One Seams are swimming on me.  Since I sew in capsules, I don't want to get "new" pants.  How is the best way to take them up???

[vtmartha]

Louise - I, too, have a fitting question.  Is there any way of making an alteration comparable to a flat seat adjustment in One Seam Pants?  My pants look great from the front but too big in the back.  Thank you so much.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I've lost weight and my One Seams are swimming on me.  Since I sew in capsules, I don't want to get "new" pants.  How is the best way to take them up???

Ok, it will pay me to check here before I get working on the new pattern

How much weight?...good for you, and oh by the way we hate you!!! ...I too have lost weight...not quite sure how much...never wanted to know what I started at...but I have test pairs of pants....I have one pair marked for the 1st of Sept try on.

It is really a pain to take these  pants in...the stitching has to be removed from the elastic...because the center front and back crotch is a straight vertical seam, you can't (in their finished state) take the crotch seam in below the elastic.

When someone looses weight not only do you do it in the circumference but through the depth of crotch. Your tummy and fanny also go away. 

I have been 28" for ever for the crotch measurement and now I am 27" So unless I change my pants pattern and continue to have a 28" crotch measurement, I will start to have 'Depend Pants'...

Are you at your goal weight? If not, it's not worth changing them now. When I teach the pant class I say, it is easier to make a brand new pair from scratch than alter an exhisting pair...much less time. Unless you have some pairs that go with tops and jackets or that you just love...it might be time to pass them forward.

But it you have to alter...the stitching has to come out of the elastic casing, and undo the pants crotch seam and inseams...iron the fabric back flat and start with laying your altered pattern over the fabric. You will have enough fabric. As far as the crotch curve, register the tissue pattern there and you will be cutting fabric off the top and along the crotch vertical lines and from the inseams...The only place you will have to watch is the length...you hem might be a bit narrower. 

I, too, have a fitting question.  Is there any way of making an alteration comparable to a flat seat adjustment in One Seam Pants?  My pants look great from the front but too big in the back.

 

Don't turn around!!! Hey, I'm on a roll...been up since abou 4AM and at the computer.

You might try to take a tuck from the top of the raw casing to the raw hem completely down the length of the back of the leg. You could also shorten up the crotch point in the back only....to pull the 'seat' inbetween your legs. I'd like to see a picture of the back of the pants on you to see exactly what they are doing.

Are you having a ridge at your waist, right below the wasit casing elastic? Or are there long vertical folds that you are not filling out?

Let me know and I'll figure it out...in the mean time, don't turn around

back to the new pattern and illustrations. Louise

[RobbieJo]

Thanks Louise!!  I knew everyone would hate me, that's why I waited so long to ask.  Congrats to you to on your loss as well.  So I sort of have to pick everything out and start over...I was afraid of that.

[Terri K]

Question -   I have a piece of dk brown heavy sueded rayon that I bought (from Louise for these pants)  washed and ready to cut (to match my new jacket).   Maybe it's just me this morning - should I just fold it over, matching selvedge to selvedge - or should I tear it and turn it around so both pieces run in the same direction?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Coming up for air between re-reading the instructions for the 100th time...I though I would check in here and then I have to go over to creative machine and see what they are up to while I have been working.

The easiest way to see if you have a nap...even in a sueded rayon...there can be a nap...it looks rich in color looking one way and a silver shade looking in the other direction.

Take the whole length of fabric and throw it around your neck and walk to a mirror...as you are looking at the fabric..does the one side looks different in color than the other side...if so..you have a nap fabric...if they both look the same you don't need to cut it and flip it so both sections are going in the same direction.  The reason for the mirror trick...one side is going up your body and the other side of the fabric in heading down...they are in opposide directions. Same if you had a left leg and a right leg of a pair of pants. 

back to the grind, Louise

[vtmartha]

Thank you, Louise!  I actually didn't turn around    but my helpful DH pointed out that they are baggy in the rear thigh.  I have long, thin legs (think chicken, perhaps) and it is difficult to get any pants (except jeans) to look good.  I will learn how to post a picture so you can take a look. 

[carolg]

Louise,  I am  working with the One Seamed Pants and have a few questions.  I am wondering if the length is measured from the top of the pant pattern before or after the band is taped on.  For my first pair I am making capris so I will measure from the knee to the ankle but need to get the length correct first.  Also, I have a 54in. hip and 32 1/2 crotch measurement.  I left the crotch measurement the same as adding 1/4 of an inch isn't going to effect it that much - am I assuming?  Also I have added 2 inches to the middle of the pant pattern to add the 4 inches that I need.  Is that enough?  The fabric I am starting with is a medium weight linen blend and hopefully the waist won't be too full when I add the elastic.  How do you know when to put in the short pleats to pull in the waist width?  Thanks so much for your help.  Carol G

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am wondering if the length is measured from the top of the pant pattern before or after the band is taped on.

You will measure after you find where your actual waist is on the pattern tissue.

I have a 54in. hip and 32 1/2 crotch measurement.  I left the crotch measurement the same as adding 1/4 of an inch isn't going to effect it that much - am I assuming?  Also I have added 2 inches to the middle of the pant pattern to add the 4 inches that I need

In the tapered (I would like you to make the tapered pair of pants...You will only need to add 1 1/2" along the grain line. That will give you 3" total added and the pants are 55" finished in the XL+. The pants are 55" finished you are 54" in the hip...so you already have 1" of ease over and above your hip measurment...you are adding 3" total (1 1/2" per side) so now you have a total of 4" of ease.

Depending on how much you are different from the waist measurement to the hip measurement...is when the pleasts need to be added...if you are an 'H' shape you will not need to add the pleats, but if you are an 'X' shape you will need to add the pleats. The pattern template for the pleats is in the pattern) is placed on the casing line and at the center front seam line and cutting line...you will see the 5/8" seam allownace on the pleasts template. Just tape it in place to the casing. That way you can use it when you want and not use it if you are doing knits etc.

I am outta' here...lots to do before 3:00am for the cab. Louise

llllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll (oops...===================================================Twinkie is try to help me type. You are  correct with not adding any more to the crotch. the weight of the fabric will do that for you.

[Karen1966]

This is my first time posting--ever--in a chat...so here goes: I have made 2 one seam pants that fit--almost. I have 49" hip and I think used a size too large. My crotch depth is 29" but (a fluffy butt at that) my waist is tilted. I am 3" shorter in front than in back. (Measuring from the waist to the floor, front and back.) If I do a level waistband, the back doesn't come up far enough and the front is practically to my pits. I haven't ordered the book yet that talks about tilted waists (but I will!) so can you help me get the crotch depth correctly placed, please?  Thanks.
Karen

[Lanna]

I love my one-seams, and have made several in the wider legs, and several in the smaller legs, even capri.   my question, (I cant seem to see where it has been mentioned)I would like to make the smaller legged ones, that get wider at the bottom, kind of
like bell bottoms, but not quite.  If I just taper out on each side of the pattern, would this accomplish what I am needing.  I really
didint want to put a side seam in, then do it.  I really like not haveing the side seam.

or is there another way?  these wider at the bottom are really in , and I have a few pair, and want some more. Help

Thanks in advance.  if anyone as done this, let me know how they have turned out>!!  thanks,
Lanna

[LisaB]

Karen1966, I saved Louise's instructions for dealing with a tilted waist some time ago. I'll post them here, and Louise can jump in the next time she checks in.

Give yourself a ‘wedgie’ measurement. I always suggest NOT to ‘borrow’ the fitting alterations you have to make to other commercial and independent patterns. The drafting of the One-Seam Pants© Pattern is completely different. Make your first test pair in the size recommended in the fitting chart (or e-mail me for help), the correct depth of crotch and leg length.

Lay the One-Seam Pants© pattern on a flat surface. You will see that the waist at the center back is slightly higher than at the center front. Most women are built in the same way, higher in the back and sloping down to the center front. Check yourself out sideways in a mirror.

• First, arrive at the size you are going to make.
• Make the crotch adjustment for your measurement according to the directions on page 2 col. 3 and tape the casing on.
• Cut a piece of tracing paper about 6” wide and the width of the pattern at the hip area. Place the tracing paper under the pattern at the horizontal hip line.
• Cut the tissue pattern from the center back on the horizontal hip line to the grain line.
• Cut the tissue pattern from the center front on the horizontal hip line to the grain line. Do not cut through the grain line.
• The front part of the pattern above the hip line will be placed over the lower portion of the pattern so that the two cut edges (the upper part of the pant pattern and the lower part of the pant pattern) will overlap.
• As you overlap the front section of the upper and lower portion of the pattern, an equal amount will expand in the back of the pant pattern. You will be able to overlap the front section about ¾” without skewing the pattern draft.
• The back portion that has opened is a long ‘pie’ shape from the widest part at the center back to nothing at the grain line, will need to be taped to the tracing paper under the pattern.
• ‘True’ up the center back and the center front cutting lines.
• You have exactly the same crotch measurement, but you have placed more inches in the back and less in the front with this alteration. The finished garment will sit at your lower waist in the center front and will be high enough to be at your waist at the center back.

Again, those are instructions that Louise posted sometime in the past that I saved. I hope that helps!

Lisa

[LOUISE CUTTING]

i AM COMING UP FOR AIR...well, I see not really...I left the cap lock on. The ASG was a great success. but a red-eye home arriving here yesterday about 11 AM and no sleep...yesterday afternoon about 4pm I finally fell asleep sitting here at the computer...I figured it was time to throw in the towel.

This morning I have been filling the orders from the show, internet and back orders from the sale last week. I tried to post while in Sacramento, but the internet at the hotel kept throwing me off.

Thank you so much LisaB for keeping the old post of the tilting of the waist. I hope it helps Karen1966.

to Lanna, the One Seams can not be made into a boot cut very successfully, because of only having the one seam. If you take the inseam in at the knee area so it will flair back out at the hem area, there is nothing on the outside of the leg to balance that inseam. The fabric will stick out at the hem only at your inner ankles...not the prettiest look. Sorry this doesn't help with the style you are looking for, but the Pants can be tapered or straight for the best look.

I will now head over to see that the other chat area is up to. Later, Louise

[Karen1966]

Lisa,

Thanks so much for the instructions on the tilted waist! I am printing them out and will give it a try. But first...am having a lot of edema problems  and that will affect the crotch measurement. Off to Dr. tomorrow to see what the problem is.

Karen

[Terri K]

I usually whip these up so fast that I don't take photos until I wear them with an outfit but here's my latest pair in a soft celadon green silk.   I keep my master pattern in pattern ease.   The hardest part is making sure the grain is true on drapey fabrics 

edited

[LOUISE CUTTING]

It has been a very busy week. Tuesday evening I received a call from Threads with an assingment for an upcoming couture issue. I haven't been off the phone since + sending out fabric pages like crazy and then sending orders.

The assignment for Threads is a great deal of phone calls. I start in NYC and work my way to the west coast...that way I start at about 10:00am eact coast time and am still on the phone at 8pm talking to California companies.

Seeing it is too early to call NYC, I have been playing on the internet while drinking coffee, watching GMA, and printing the Sit and Sew packets for Novi...I'm sure there is something else I could be doing, but...and here it comes...pet the kitty who just walked past my line of vision.

I came across Eileen Fisher site and landed on her pants page. If nothing else about the fashion of pants...there is no one length, hem width, prince point or fabrication. 

On the home page there are pages that can be viewed for capsule wardrobes.  A great way to view what the Fisher Company has and they relate it to your own life style. Your personal 'Cutting Across the Country in Style'

Well, the printing is done, cat is busy someplace else, coffee cup is empty and I have to go and answer more e-mails...here is the pant page for Eileen Fisher. till later, Louise

http://www.eileenfisher.com/scripts/ecatalogisapi.dll/Item2?Item=111636&group=34156&template=9990000001052050

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Just an odd observation...I have been pulling garments for the fall shows that I have 'rented' back from the dry cleaners and my One Seam Pants have creases down the front and back. Not every pair...just random...it reminds me of the old joke about the Thermos and hot and cold..."how it know?" How do you pick where the crease is going to be?

Except for one pair...it has the crease along the inseam with a matching crease on the grainline. Now, that is going to be attractive...and very wide....I guess I have some steaming to do tonight. till later, Louise

[marciae]

I have to ask for NO creases if I send my OS's to the cleaners!!   I took a pair of trousers one time and they came back with no creases??

Just left my DGD after seeing her dorm room and buying groceries, etc.  I measured her as I want to make some OS's for dorm life.  Need to look at my pattern, but her measurements are :  waist 29.50;  Hips 3in down = 34.5 - snuggy is 25 and outside length is 38.  I also want to make one of the less/is/more tops with sleeves and the cowl neck.  She's only 5 ft tall but thought it would be a cute look for lounging.  What do you think?  I would really like to do a set in fleece but am thinking that might be too bulky for the elastic waist

TIA

[bookish]

Louise, I'm practicing the cool pocket you described in Sew Stylish (not the real 'cool pocket' in your OS booklet).  Great fun... could it be used on a OS?  Or would it be better on other goodies?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

for Marciae

her measurements are :  waist 29.50;  Hips 3in down = 34.5 - snuggy is 25 and outside length is 38.... She's only 5 ft tall but thought it would be a cute look for lounging.  What do you think?

The waist won't matter, that will be taken care with the Stright Rite Elastic. Are her 'real' hips also 34.5"?

With her only being 5' tall you need to put her in the tapered style.  If her hips are 34.5" she will be in the XS and take 1/2" out completely along the grainline. That will reduce the circumference to 37 1/2" total. That will give her 3" of ease around the hips. In her size...(by the way....grrr )....I was born in a size 16 bassinet...but I digress...and take a 'fat' 1/4" off the top from center back to center front  along the XS waist line to lower the waist a bit before you tape the waist casing tissue on.

You will need to remove 3" from the leg to shorten the length. Do one line in the upper thigh and the other along the shorten/lengthen line.

I would really like to do a set in fleece but am thinking that might be too bulky for the elastic waist

I think the fleece won't like the elastic...why not do several pair in flannelette that has been washed and dried a bunch of times to get the shrinkage out. There are some really great prints out now, besides Christmas and baby prints. 

I also want to make one of the less/is/more tops with sleeves and the cowl neck.

The LIM top would be great also in the flannelette. Make sure the sleeve are the correct length for her and you don't need to make the cowl as deep as the one I wrote about in the other chat room. I believe I put it at 15" but with her size 12" could be just fine...you don't want to make it too short...it will start to look skimpy.

for bookish

I'm practicing the cool pocket you described in Sew Stylish (not the real 'cool pocket' in your OS booklet).  Great fun... could it be used on a OS?  Or would it be better on other goodies?

I was just send a copy of Sew Stylish by Threads and had to go and see what pocket you were talking about. This is a great pocket for the One Seams...you can put it anywhere on the hip or leg...the background story to that pocket is...a gal walked into the store (the very first location) from out of town and I think my whole staff and the class of One Seam students what was going on at that time pounced on her and started to measure every spot on the pocket...made her go into the bathroom and hand the pants out so I could see what the wrong side looked like. Her pants were in white with multi strip black thin lines in a cotton/rayon...vertical on the pants and the pocket lips when horizontal. I know we scared the poor thing but she was very pleased that we thought so much of her pocket that in the end it was ok that we knocked her to the ground and all pulled out your measuring tapes!

The article on pages 76-80 is mine also. Its always interesting what you fall over in magazines...I quickly looked through the magazine and thought ...hey I know those tips...OK so it was late...well, till later.  Louise

[marciae]

Thanks Louise - I hope to get to the pattern today.  At the moment I have a sick dog so will go to the vet later.  She's an old dog - 11 - has an infected tooth!

[judejean]

I've been putting off sewing another pair of One Seam Pants because I know my pattern needs some tweaking, but I don't know for sure what to do.

I posted a couple of pictures of a recent pair of the pants that I made
the front http://wyenot.servebeer.com/~jr/sewing/OSP-front1.jpg
the back http://wyenot.servebeer.com/~jr/sewing/OSP-back1.jpg

The front looks pretty good, I think.  The back has some wrinkles that I'm not sure how to eliminate.

My measurements are - hip/53 - crotch length/34, inseam/29, side waist to floor/40

Adjustments I've made to the pattern:
Add 1" width to pattern at grainline (maybe adding another 1/2" would help?)
Tilted the waist 2.5" lower in front and 2.5" higher in back.
This is the tapered leg pant and I have tapered the leg even more according to the Collection 1 book.
I've also added the 'cool pockets'.

I'm afraid to tilt the waist anymore.  As it is, it is very hard to not have the back seam come to a point in the back and it's very difficult to turn the waist band under and keep the fabric laying flat.

Would it help to add something to the crotch point?  Is there a way to do this easily?  What other adjustments might need to be done?

I hope this is clear.  If more info is needed, let me know.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jude 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I pulled out my chart and will work with you first thing tomorrow morning.

All day today was getting all the boxes ready to go to Novi and St Louis...13 to one and 6 to the next. UPS has to pick them up tomorrow...500 pounds of product heading out the door...eek, that is a job.

I got so much ready today, I might actually get to sew tomorrow...like a normal person...well, almost. It is the next-next pattern, and I will have to stop from time to time to get an illustration done.

All I can say, it you have any double sided fabric in your stash...doesn't have to be double cloth, just that it has a interesting wrong side, will be great for this jacket pattern.

Anyway...first thing tomorrow morning it is One Seam Time...till then, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi, I am here, I looked at the pix and you are right, the front is looking good. I do think adding another 1/2" would help...that would be 1/4" on the pattern piece (times 2 would give the 1/2").

The drag lines in the back...This could have occured with the tapering of the tapered pattern, it might just be tapered to much. I want you to try several things, and your body might be working against the pant leg creating the drag lines.  You will have to do this while looking in a mirror backwards. In the pants you have made:

1. Turn the pants inside out and one leg down inside the other just like you were going to sew the 'horseshoe' crotch. Draw a line starting at the center back a few inches down from the waist casing, the line will follow the crotch seam but 'scoop' out a bit more in the crotch curve. Bring your line after the 'scooped' curve back to the original stitching line by the time you get to the sewn inseam. Sew this new crotch seam.

Trim off the seam to about 3/8" and save what you trimmed off. Press the pants and try them on.  If this helped, use the trimmed fabric to redraw your pattern.

2. You might need to release some of the tapering on your tissue pattern for the next pair. But I think adding the extra 1/2" to the circumference will help.

Look at yourself side ways in the mirror. Look at the curve of the back of your calf. Does it stick out further than your fanny? If so, the fabric is getting 'hung up' on your calf. There isn't anything that can be done to eliminate the drag lines if this is the posture of your body.

3. On the back inseam of the pattern tissue, with your french curve, draw a straighter line from the crotch to the knee. This will give you a bit more fabric in the back inner thigh area.

Keep me posted if any or none work and I will continue with more thoughts.

to Marcaie, hope the pup is doing better.

much to do today...till later, Louise