Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[Doris W. in TN]

These pants are truly wonderful for *high hip fluff*....ask me how I know! I also don't care for the elephant ear...don't know why exactly.

I also made them with the front flat over the elastic, so the gathers start about 4" or so from the center front seam on each side. I highly recommend anyone with a belly try this variation. It shifted the fullness to where it's more functional and helped fill in the dips on each side.
Rene Marie

We must have the same body.       That's why I was considering moving the elephant ear a few inches toward the front.  Maybe Louise will have a chance to weigh in on this between her teaching schedule.

I already gave that flat front with tucks that you mention a good look and may try it.  Thanks for mentioning it, as it will make me remember that.    It reminds me of LaFred's "Thalia" pant without the 13 inches of ease through the hips.

I looked at the Cool Pockets and will give those some serious thought.   The top-stitching concerns me, as it may add some visual weight to my wide hips.  ETA - if I use another rayon print, though, I just realized the stitching would be hidden.   Hhhmmmm .....

Someone asked what kind of tops are worn with these?   I'm curious also.  Right now I'm planning to only wear tops "over" (not tucked in)  as the elastic snugs in my tiny waist and showcases (eek!) the little pot tummy that has appeared with  . . .ahem . . .  advancing years and hormonal changes and is located immediately below the waistband.    Why can't I have a big waist like everyone else???   (wahhh!)   

If I tuck anything into these OSP, I'll have a belt with 3-D something like a tie or bow or whatever to fill in that small front waist and camouflage the shelf that sticks out under it.  Or maybe I need to look at Control Top shapewear.   No . . . I don't want to be constricted.   LOL

It's all about the camouflage, IMHO ... just like makeup. 

[sewingbeth]

I just recently got the One-Seam pattern -- I have never seen them made up.  What tops do you ladies wear with them?  I'm hoping to get to them in the near future.

  Since my introduction to Louise Cutting's fabulous patterns last fall, I have made several One Seams in 4 different lengths.  I love her pattern for a top called By Popular Demand. These tops look nice over the pants and she has other patterns I've seen modeled that also were excellent choices.. 

Actually, every exhisting top in my closet has worked with these One Seams . My sewing plan is to make several various  new tops using Cutting Line Design patterns to match all future One Seams.  Her patterns are accurate, properly sized, up-to-date, and look professionally made even thought they are so easy to use. 

[LyndaC]

Excellent question!  Several of us are from the generation of tucked-in shirts.  Fortunately (for us) that is no longer in style.

How about a short, loose T-shirt, preferably with neckline interest?  Shape the bottom in gentle curves, of course.  Add an unbuttoned shirt or a jacket.  Picture a short Princess-seamed shell, perhaps with interest in the seams?  Do you have several sweaters that are too loose and unfitted and look sloppy worn over ANY pants?  Get out your serger and take in the bottom until it fits at your waist.  Taper the seam into the original seam below the bustline, assuming it fits there.  Voila!  Your waist looks smaller, and probably your tummy bulge looks smaller.

If you feel you have to wear a tucked-in top, try a fancy belt or colorful scarf to hide the gathers of the one-seams.  Again, a jacket will hide any width you want to keep secret.

I'm sure others have great ideas, too.  Especially Louise!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am here...I quickly read over all here and on the other chat...thank you for all the lovely things said about the patterns. I will answer all questions tomorrow or the next few days.

Threads asked me to do an article and it has to be finished in very short order...so no sooner am I back from Las Vegas and the buying trip and fashion show...I have had to hit the floor running. I have 10 different details to write about and I finally just hit the wall a few minutes ago....but wanted to let you know I will be back tomorrow. 

till then, Louise

[blue mooney]

Great news on the article, Louise! Something to look forward to in Threads.

[Doris W. in TN]

When I was at the Atlanta Expo I purchased Louise's  Anything But Ordinary jacket pattern.   There is a really cute crop top pattern with a nice neckline detail included with the jacket.  http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Shopper_id=31331111442313&Store_id=516&page_id=23&Item_ID=1241
That's the top I may make, in a lightweight linen, for the OSPants.

[Linda 75142]

I finally took the time to cut a capri pattern from the OS pattern.  My "story" and photo can be seen at my blog entry here. I really like the way they turned out.  I see more in my future!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

What a great outfit. I too want to make some Capri's for this summer...many pants after being washed or drycleaned a few times have a tendency to 'shrink north' and become that odd length...you and everyone else knows that the pants shrunk...and they get pushed to the back of your closet....these are great ones to shorten to the longer or shorter length of crops or Capris. Either the straight or tapered width on One Seam Pants look great in both lengths...I was talking to a docotr about 'personal summers'  and she said if you can get the fabric off the back of your calf and off the inside of your fore arm your internal temp can come down in the summer months... I feel that Capris and crops also look prettier on 'aged' legs than shorts

got to run...till later, Louise   

[garnet128]

I attended the Atlanta expo in March and took 3 classes with Louise, One Seam Pants being one of them.  I couldn't have been more impressed with an instructor and completely enjoyed the classes. 

Pants fitting has always been my headache so I figured what the heck.  I purchased the OSP pattern and Book collection 1 as well as some other patterns.  The first pair I made was the straight leg and being short and fluffy, was not too happy with all the fabric in the front crotch and back of knee.  Next came the tappered.  I was alot happier with the fit(size LG), but they were too tight in the protruding tummy area(yes I measured and didn't think I needed as much ease as was called for - I was wrong!).  I was real happy with the leg size tho so I kept the size Lg for the leg and added up to size LG+ for the crotch curve.  Eurika!!!!!!! I have found my perfect pants!!!!!!!!!  Yipee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I didn't think it was possible for MY butt to look good.  Have I got such plans now for all the variations.  Thank you Louise.

I do have one question.  Has anyone tried to reverse the taper below the knee so that the pant can be a little wider at the hem, like maybe 2 - 3 inches wider at the hem?  I was wondering if I could start at about mid knee and straighten the taper some to accomplish this.   Would it mess with the straight of grain side and throw the bottom leg askew?

Has anyone tried this?  Louise, if you are listening, what do you think?

Thanks, Robin

[LyndaC]

I'm sure Louise will answer this, but I believe the short answer is - no.  The place you would probably add width would be the one and only seam - the inseam.   That would throw the grain off and you wouldn't be pleased.

There is a way this can be done.   She has the explanation down pat.  Perhaps you should wait for her detailed instructions.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I didn't think it was possible for MY butt to look good.

There is nothing better than that! We must look good leaving a room

Has anyone tried to reverse the taper below the knee so that the pant can be a little wider at the hem, like maybe 2 - 3 inches wider at the hem?  I was wondering if I could start at about mid knee and straighten the taper some to accomplish this.   Would it mess with the straight of grain side and throw the bottom leg askew?

And how...you only have one seam...you can't play with the inseam unless you have an outside seam to match the vertical shape and curved line of the pants.

I just had a few minutes to answer ...will check the other chat...starting to teach classes tomorrow...set the booth up today...it has been just the coldest weather (and rainy...snow flakes yesterday morning)...just enought to have a week of really great hair days

Please keep me up to date with all that is going on with everyone's One Seam Pants

Till later, Louise

[LyndaC]

You asked for updates on your one-seams:

I just finished teaching the third week of my four-week class on the One-seams.  One lady has already finished her first pair and tried them on for a fashion show.   She came out of the bathroom grinning from ear to ear.   She said she had NEVER had pants fit her before, and she really didn't think these would!  She wants to make her second pair in next week's class.

Naturally, this turned the other students on.  One lady is completely new to sewing...never sewn anything before.  Her white linen one-seams  are almost finished.  One lady has gained some weight and felt "nothing" would look good on her.  She loves them already.  One lady is an experienced seamstress and couldn't believe how much easier it is to fit "Louise's way."

Thanks, Louise!

[nanners]

I took Louise's One Seam class this morning at the Expoin Worcester Ma! I am so glad I did! I had an AH HA moment and a few things that didnt make sense suddenly did! It was great to meet Louise! The class was soinformative and she had somany great tips forsewing in general also. It was my first time at the Expo with my mom and aunt in tow so although I would have liked more classes I am glad I just did oneand checked everything else out. Thanks Louise!!!

[Janice J in MA]

I took Louise's class yesterday morning at the Sewing Expo in Worcester MA. She was great -- wonderful personality, very funny early in the morning, and I learned a lot. I went down to the exhibit hall and bought the pattern and can't wait to try it. I'll be back with my results! I recommend if anyone has a chance to take her classes, go for it!

[nanners]

Janice... then we were in the same class! I was the girl with the big butt that needs more crotch curve

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I received this e-mail and thought you would enjoy it...it makes sitting at the computer talking to two cats or in the sewing studio all worth it. more things to cross of my 'to do list' till later Louise,   

On Tuesday we had our spring tea and fashion show.  There were about 
20 people who participated and over half of them were wearing things 
made from your patterns.  There were lots of one-seam pants with all 
positive comments.  I wore the Less is More vest with the one-seam 
pants.  I saw several different blouses and  jackets.  As the ladies 
modeled their garments on our "runway" they talked about the sewing 
experience.  Your patterns won high praise for the details and 
understandability. Several said they would never make a collar the 
old way after trying your method.  Several ladies who didn't make one 
of your patterns used some of the techniques they learned in the 
seminar.  Steam a seam is now a staple in lots of sewing rooms.  I 
wish I had taken my camera so I could send you pictures.  Everyone 
was extremely happy with their garments and the fit looked good.   
There was a lot of talk about how wonderful the seminar was and how 
much everyone learned.  There was one lady who didn't have a positive 
one-seam experience.  She sewed two right legs and brought them to 
show us.  She was laughing so hard while holding them up, I feared 
she might have an accident!

[Ann C]

Louise, 

Just wanted you to know that I just got back from a 2 week trip in the car - total of about 4500 miles to Abilene,Texas, then Pueblo, Colorado, then Montrose, Colorado, then retraced the trip back to Abilene, then home tonight!  Guess what my favorite travelling pants were?  If you thought tight jeans, you are wrong! They were my one-seams!  I think I've even sold my sister in Abilene on trying them out!  She doesn't sew much any longer, but she really liked the style and fit (and also my many comments on how comfy they are!).  I've got to get that pattern out again next week for some more for summer! 

[marciae]

I just finished a pair of OS! - - except for the hem!  I added two inches to my pattern - these look very slimming if you just look at me from the front or the back - definitely not the side view!   Next I'm going to do a pair with the smart pockets from one the books.  That's the only thing missing - pockets!  When I was working I normally had on a light weight jacket so had pockets.  I also ordered some elastic from Louise.  Have two more pieces of fab for OS - that's all I'll need for the summer as most of the summer is spent in the mountains.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am just coming up for air at least for a minute. I got back from teaching in Manchester and hit the floor running again. Trying to get all the step-by-steps samples done for the Martha Pullen filming.

I've been filling all the orders that came in while I was gone for just the 3 days...filled and gone!

I am glad the pants worked out for you Ann on your cross country trip. I have my 'uniform' that I wear on air planes. A pair of black ottoman knit One Seam Pants with matching S in H top. Black slides in the summer and closed toe shoes and socks at other times if it is not quite Florida weather the rest of the time. The ottoman knit wears like iron, washes in the sink, hangs to dry and wear it home on the return trip. You are so right Ann, I swear jeans have to be the most uncomfortable garments to travel in.

As soon as I get back from this trip filming I will start to work on the next pattern(s).

Last summer I was getting the 15 applique patterns and booklet finished, but this summer I hope to get 3 patterns well underway.

Well, I better see what is happening on the other chat area. till later, Louise

[QueenBee]

I started a Cutting Line Design Patterns Info Index on the Child Board above the Patterns and Instructions folder. We can accumulate links to CLD patterns there. Lisa explains the basic what and how in a general Info Index thread, and in the first post on the HP Info Index thread.

They will be listed by pattern name, since that is how most of us usually refer to them. So give me the name, the link, and brief pertinent info, such as where it's to: PR review, blog, etc.

FYI- I'll be gone this week and will start compiling and formatting the link post when I return.

Rene Marie

[marciae]

Made a pair of OS's this afternoon - a poly/rayon blend that feels and drapes like silk!!  When I lived in the city I always purchased my elastic from the local fabric store.  I used the last of it a couple of weeks ago and ordered elastic from Louise.  Wellll, there is NO comparison - Louise's elastic is so much better (NAYY) probably most of you know that - but, in case you haven't tried her elastic order some.  Want to make a pair of black OS's to take to Mexico with us, but need to finish a creme colored top to wear on Sunday to DGD's graduation!

[marciae]

I've always used the tapered leg pattern, but am thinking the full leg might be better for a silk dress pant??  Has anyone made both - and what conclusion did you arrive at?  Guess I should get out the pattern and compare the two - one over laid onto the other - maybe that would give me a better idea.

[blue mooney]

I've made both, marciae, and I think your preference will have a lot to do with your body type. A straight leg pant is more flattering for me. Tapered leg gives the "mom jeans" effect - the taper calls attention to my wide hips if I wear a shorter top or a tee. I can get away with tapered OS pants if I wear a jacket or blouse that comes to mid-thigh.

The straight legs are swishier. I think that would be nice and luxurious in a silk pant, but some people say that swishy pants bother them.

[marciae]

I'm short and about 20# overweight!!   This morning on the today show they showed some linen slacks with the wider leg - they were from J Jill - so I'm going to work on the wider leg ones tomorrow.  Today my DGD graduates from HS where do the years go??

[Susan in Saint John]

I know that one seam pants can be made shorter for capris but I was wondering about using the pattern to make shorts--actualy pj bottoms.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I was wondering about using the pattern to make shorts--actualy pj bottoms.

If you are just planning on wearing them as PJ bottoms, then you will be okay. But, regular shorts aren't the most flattering. It has to do with the width around the hem circumference and not having the additional weight in the outside seam. That seam adds weight to a regular pair of pants. Having a full length One Seam Pant will give you the weight, even crop or Capris have the weight of the fabric to keep them down. But shorts tend to 'ride up'...so if no one sees you wearing PJ's...you will  be just fine... and the kitties will loose their treats if they talk. But I have seen them laugh behind the plantation shutters. Hmmmmm!? Oh, I forgot we weren't talking about me wearing shorts. That's when I have seen the cat on her back holding her stomach laughing at me in shorts.

A customer wanted me to help her hem her shorts, while I was pinning her hem up, she asked me where I do I wear my shorts hem? I  told her, at my ankles. These are 2 legs that will never see the light of day...whoo...bad legs , really bad legs!

I'm off to help a friend at Neimans tomorrow...well, someone has to! I get to play, I get to play. will report back what I find. later, Louise

[marciae]

Just finished a pair of the straight leg OS's - I don't like the looks of them - I think I need to go down a size - I cut a large as I'm 42 in the hips.  There is way too much fabric across the back!   The crotch length is fine so I'm thinking I'll go down to a medium.  I use the large in the tapered and when I overlayed it appeared that I should do the med but I decided to go with the pattern measurements, comments, etc.  We're going to Mex the 2nd of June - I think I will take these as PJ's of sorts that I could wear instead of a robe??   They're a nice pale yellow lemon color.  Am making an ABO top to go with - so they're going to become lounge wear!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I cut a large as I'm 42 in the hips.  There is way too much fabric across the back!   The crotch length is fine so I'm thinking I'll go down to a medium.  I use the large in the tapered and when I overlayed it appeared that I should do the med but I decided to go with the pattern measurement

If you are not fond of the amount of fabric around the hip area and the crotch is fine, the next pair, along the grain line, take out 1" from the raw edve at the top of the casing to the raw edge at the hem. That will remove 2" total around the circumference of the hips, through the legs and the hem circumference.

 You are 42" in the hips, the pants in a LG are 47 1/2". Now let remove the 2" from the 47 1/2" and you will be at 45 1/2"...that will give you 3 1/2" of ease over your hip circumference...just what you will need. And much easier than starting from scratch in a different size.

later, Louise   

[marciae]

Thanks Louise - I'll try that - in the mean time I cut out a T&C camp shirt in brown linen!  It's raining and gloomy here so a perfect day to sit and sew!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I think I just lost 10 pounds...well, I know I lost a few....but I just made the One Seam Pants with a 'fat' 1" pleat all the way down the front that I copied from a Shirin Guild panel pant design. The full details start on page 6 of Collections II of the One Seam Pant booklet.

I have you adding 3" to the width of the straignt leg version. If you are XS the first line would be 3" away from center front, SM 3 1/2",  MD 3 3/4",  LG 4 1/4",  and XL 4 1/2". You would draw two more lines 1 3/8" away from the first line drawn. Even though 3" was added, when you sew the pleat out it will add up to 2 3/4"...the rest will be taken up in the turn of the cloth.

The hem has to go in first before the pleat is sewn...so your have to know exactly what you hem is going to be. Mark and sew the pleat from the top of the raw edge of the casing all the way down (make sure you stitching is straight) through the turned up hem.

You can press the pleat either toward the center front or away...this is your prefference. Stitch the pleat down 4 1/4" from the top of the raw edge of the casing. This will make the pleat lay flat when the elastic is inserted.

Now you have these deep 1"+ pleats running from the top of the casing through the hem...two more verticales. There goes some of those pounds. It really works.

I gave the you the Readers Digest version of the pleat panel pants...I'm still trying to pack to head to Texas tomorrow for the Martha Pullen show...great fabric comin' your way. It is about a day and a half drive in front of us.

Will e-mail form the road. till later, Louise

[marciae]

Louise, 

Just wanted you to know that I just got back from a 2 week trip in the car - total of about 4500 miles to Abilene,Texas, then Pueblo, Colorado, then Montrose, Colorado, then retraced the trip back to Abilene, then home tonight!  Guess what my favorite travelling pants were?  If you thought tight jeans, you are wrong! They were my one-seams!  I think I've even sold my sister in Abilene on trying them out!  She doesn't sew much any longer, but she really liked the style and fit (and also my many comments on how comfy they are!).  I've got to get that pattern out again next week for some more for summer! 

I wore my one seams on the plane going to Mex - you're right - comfort plus.  I'd made this particular pair out of some black with a small white pin stripe - looked very nice - My SO was very impressed!   Had two other pair, plus three pair of capri's that I wore also.

Louise - the sounds of the panel pant from SG sounds like a couple of other patterns I've seen.  I'm putting this on my to-do list for the fall.  We move to the cabin on Wed and all I sew up there are purses and such things as I don't have all the pressing equipment, serger, etc that I think I 'need'.  My how spoiled we've become thru the years.  I do remember when pinking shears were the seam finish, then I progressed to the tricot - seams great for real ravely fabric!   Now I can't hardly 'sew' without my serger!!

[Susan in Saint John]

I'm going to make a pair of one seam pants [tapered version] for my daughter.  I've got the hip and crotch length OK but I need to shorten the legs by 6".  That seems a lot to take out at the lengthen/shorten line.  Her thighs are full so I don't want to reduce the length until about the knee.  I'm also wondering if it would be better to make the legs a bit wider to balance her hips and avoid the "ice cream cone" look.

Would the straight leg version be a better choice?  Thanks

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm going to take each section of your note piece by piece.

I'm going to make a pair of one seam pants [tapered version] for my daughter.  I've got the hip and crotch length OK but I need to shorten the legs by 6". That seems a lot to take out at the lengthen/shorten line.  Her thighs are full so I don't want to reduce the length until about the knee.

I would like to know her hip size and depth of croth before I can say where the best place to shorten the pant leg needs to be. Also give me the circumference of her upper thigh.

  I'm also wondering if it would be better to make the legs a bit wider to balance her hips and avoid the "ice cream cone" look. 

With both the straight and tapered leg...as the size increases for the pants around the hips also the leg and hem circumference will increase. It is almost impossible to get the "ice cream cone" look with the pants when finished...the hem is just not that small even in the smallest tapered size. The tapered pants are not leggings.

Let me know, till later, Louise

[Susan in Saint John]

Her measurements are 49" hip, 31.5" crotch length and 38" leg length.  I don't know what her thigh measurement is and I likely won't be able to measure it until the weekend.  I did have her try on a pair of XL which I'd made for myself and they fit quite well except for the leg length.  She's been wearing mostly stretch woven pants so she found them a bit tighter than what she's used to when she sat in them.  I thought I might add 1/2" to the width if the fabric did not have any stretch.  There was no excess fabric in the thigh which is what made me think that I should do the shortening below the knee.

[Susan in Saint John]

I'm also going to make some pants for myself and I was reading Louise's booklets on the one seam pants pattern for some design ideas.  I had also purchased Marcy Tilton's new Vogue pants pattern #8397 [http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8397.htm?search=Marcy%20Tilton&page=1 ] It has the grain on the side seam too.  When I compared it to my one seam pattern, I could see exactly what Louise said in her booklet about how her pattern is drafted with the inseam set closer to the front (i.e., the front crotch extension shorter and the back crotch extension longer).  Years ago I had a Vogue pattern with a side panel with a pocket in it which I loved.  [Of course I'm bigger now than I was then.]    I'm thinking about modifying my one seam pattern to duplicate this using some of the information from Vogue 8397 as well.

I really like Louise's One Seam Pattern because it's relatively easy to fit and then you can do lots of interesting things with it.