Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[Betty F]

Thank you so much Louise.  These instructions will work perfectly. 

40,000 One-seams!  It must be incredibly gratifying to have created something so popular.  Thanks again for your quick assistance.

Betty

[LyndaC]

H:i, Louise, please tell us again what address we need to put in our address book to prevent important messages from you from going to spam?  I wondered why I wasn't hearing about your sales! 

Lynda C

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am knee deep cutting the Sit & Sew samples for Tampa, Puyallup and Atlanta Sewing Expos. Below is the link to the newsletter page While there, poke around the site...some new stuff (sewing term)

http://www.fabriccollections.com/newsletter/newsletter.html?username=cuttingcorners

This is what you want to paste into your address book or where ever you need to to not throw the e-mail newsletters into your spam folder.


Please cut and paste "news@fabriccollections.com"
to your address book to receive the newsletter

I ,on the other hand, have to check my spam folder constantly...anyone writing to me wanting help with One Seam Pants and using the word 'CROTCH'  aol thinks is is spam!

back to cutting...later, Louise

[Alice in Bama]

Louise ,

Do you know if you will have any  demin tencel at the Ga expo
 i need about 6 yrds

Alice fromn Alabama

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have it on order, but will not know until it comes in...when I talked to the vendor...they said they would try. If so, it will be a very light blue denim. I won't  see the 'dark denim' vendor until I get to Las Vegas for the textile show the end of March...but we can always keep in touch.

I'm heading to Wichita tomorrow morning...got out my very fashionable long silk undies!!!

till later,Louise

[Terri K]

Keep warm Louise.    Don't forget your silk one-seam pant liners.   I wore my PJ ones out of silk charmeuse when I was in TX over the holidays as both PJs and pant liners.    Pack one, wear two ways!

[santarosie]

Is there any reason not to cut these pants on the cross grain? (that is , with the cross grain going up and down)   Wiill they hang just as beautifully?  I can get by with a lot less fabric that way.  Thanks.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Is there any reason not to cut these pants on the cross grain? (that is , with the cross grain going up and down)   Wiill they hang just as beautifully?  I can get by with a lot less fabric that way.

Good question. Yes, the total fabric amount would be less...you need about 2 yards instead of at least 2 1/2 yards....BUT...the fabric might hang differently when cut on the cross grain. If you are thinking of cutting your One-Seam Pants (or for that matter, any pattern) cross grain, hold the fabric up to your waist and gather (slightly) the selvedged edge of the fabric in your two hands...so it looks like the gathers at the waist of the One-Seam Pants. Take notice of how the fabric looks extending from the gathers. Now do the same thing from the raw edge of the fabric...again checking the fabric. Some fabric will hang differently if the cross grain runs vertically. The fabric will have a tendency to 'billow' out after the gathers are released...this is not a good look around to belly and 'hip fluff'...so if the fabric looks pretty much the same when held cross grain and lenthwise of grain...go for it...but remember when using 45" fabric...most people need more than 45" fabric from the raw edge of the casing to the raw edge of the hem. So think 60" fabric with cross grain and One Seam Pants..

Back to work for me...knee deep in packing for the 3 Sewing Expos ahead. till later, Louise 

[santarosie]

Thanks, Louise!  Now I understand why a pair of pants I cut on the cross grain billows a bit at the waist.  I wanted to take advantage of the border running along one selvedge.  Next time I use bordered fabric I'll cut on the lenghwise grain and sew the border onto the bottom of the pants.

[Ressy]

Can anyone tell me how to shorten these pants to make shorts or capris.....I did what I thought would be standard...measured down the inseam and cut there straight across but they are way off and almost impossible to hem....I like the fit in long pants...had to make some inner leg changes but nothing big.

TIA

Ressy

[judejean]

I've had my One Seam Pants pattern for over 10 years.  So the pattern instructions may have changed since I bought mine, but ....

Near the bottom right on page 2 of my instructions are the steps for making cropped pants.  It discusses what to measure, how long to make your pants, and how to make the hem.  There is a trick to making the turned under part of the hem.  I think that Louise also gave measuring instructions earlier in this discussion too.

Also, the Collection 1 booklet on the pants gives instructions on how to do a hem slit on a capri.  This booklet also has instructions for my favorite pocket - the Too Cool pocket.

Hope this helps.

[QueenBee]

Judejean, my one year old pattern has it too.

Ressy, it's pretty much like long pants; you work with the lengthen/shorten lines so that you have a stylish taper going at the bottom, plus the little *flip* back out to allow for the hem. Without that, especially if you did the tapered version, the leg itself will be a lot bigger than the bottom edge and you're doomed.

I'm sure we've all done something similar to pants, or sleeves, at some point in our sewing careers.

Louise, or someone else may be able to tell you how to salvage this pair, but I'm too fuzzy today to get the engineering aspect of it correct. It might be that you can do some pattern manipulation, then recut the leg into some slightly shorter cropped pants or city shorts.

Lemonade from lemons, as it were!

Rene Marie

[Linda 75142]

I just finished a pair of one-seams.  I tried on the last pair that I made (well over a year ago) and they were just a tad tight.  I didn't want to remeasure (lazy) and I really didn't want to trace another pattern, so I took a chance.  I was using double knit - a poly/rayon/spandex from Fabric.com.  It's so nice and soft! 

Anyhow.  I cut the same pattern I had traced way back, sewing 3/8 seam allowance, and it worked great.  I'm so excited! In just about 2 hours, I had a new pair of pants!  And I even have enough fabric left over for a nice T.  Maybe I can work on that tomorrow!

[marciae]

Great Idea!!   Don't you just love the one seams!

[Ann C]

I've had my One Seam Pants pattern for over 10 years.  So the pattern instructions may have changed since I bought mine, but ....

 

Judejean,  I was just in a seminar about a week ago at the Atlanta Expo on the One Seams - Louise asked me if it was "remedial" - and have to admit I just thought there might be something I'd forgotten in the ensuing years!  I've had my pattern quite a few years and I've copied it off more times than I care to admit, doing the various treatments listed in the pattern and booklets!  I asked Louise if there had been any changes in the pattern through the years - thought I just might need to purchase another one - but she said the only change was a correction in the directions for one of the pockets, so hang onto your current pattern - it is still current! 

I've made so many pairs of these pants in so many ways - except for the waist, which stays the same on every pair!  Best feeling pair of pants you can make in my estimation!!!  I met a lady in the class who admitted that she had had her pattern for a few years and still hadn't made them.  I gave her the website address for Artisan's Square and told her to check out this thread for helps if she needed them.  Are you  out there Pat?     I have her phone number and told her I was going to call in about a month and ask her if she had made up her pattern yet! 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I had to sew a pair of Slinky One Seams for the fashion show coming up and was just e-mailed about hemming. This is what I did and wrote back to her about hemming Slinky.

Hemming Slinky...Already have the hem fold PRESSED in to the pant or skirt (about 1 1/2"-2")...cut either a knit fusible interfacing so the stretch is crosswise (the way the Slinky stretches) or a woven interfacing (fusible) on the bias about 1" wide. Open the hem back out and sew (or serge) the RIGHT side of the interfacing to the WRONG side of the hem at the top edge (the wrong side of the interfacing will be face up) . Fold the hem back in place and carefully press (with pressing cloth) the hem back in place. The fusible interfacing is now holding the hem up. I like to stitch the hem twice to mimic what is shown in ready-to-wear. I don't bother with the 'cover stitch' on the serger...takes to long to set up and is much easier to stitch once around the hem and then a presser foot away another row of stitching. 

lets to do today later, Louise

[QueenBee]

This has come up elsewhere, for regular, darted pants. Louise, I'm one of those flat bottomed people and would like your (and everyones) suggestion of how to change it on the One Seam.  I'm tired of clown pants. I also have high hip fluff, just from the side seam area to a couple of inches from the spine on each side. That with my lovely rounded belly, and the need to fit over them, gives me all that much more room in the seat.

Suggestions?

Rene Marie

[LOUISE CUTTING]

What is the actual fabric doing on your bottom (body)...drag lines? Where and which direction? If possible if you can post a picture (or send it to me privately) headless (of course)
later, Louise

[LyndaC]

Louise, thanks for your method for hemming slinky one-seams.  You KNOW I consider you the last-word-final-authority.  However, I have a question.  I have always done a steam-a-seam on the cut edge, folding up the hem amount, steam pressing with a presscloth to protect the slinky, then s-t-r-e-c-h-i-n-g the hem until the steam-a-seam pops.  I usually topstitch with a slight zigzag for looks, often twice as you said to mimic a coverstitch.  Sometimes I do no stitching, just depending on the steam-a-seam.  I have had no droop or sag or whatever.

Am I headed for a problem?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear Lynda C,

You are fine the way you are heming the Slinky. The method I wrote about works great for the straight leg version. This will give it a bit of body and helps keep the hem of the pants from starting to swing around the leg as you start to walk.

I noticed it (the interfaced hem that I posted about) works just as well on the tapered leg. You are so tiny that the hem circumference of your tapered leg is quite small...but as the body becomes larger so does the hem circumference. So the interfaced hem helps in the weight...of the hem

Still trying to fill orders before the sale ends tomorrow. I'm off again to the post office. Louise

[MsSewCrazy]

Because IMHO I feel PowerDry is an exceptional fabric for One-seam pant liners I will share this here…

FabricsandNotions buying coop is having a buy of Malden Mills silkweight PowerDry 60" wide for  $7.10 yd.  This makes wonderful pant linings and nightgowns, camisole and undies, tee, ect!  It is like tricot but much, much better. Very soft, very silky, shiny on one side and mat on the other.  I believe the matt side is suppose to be towards the body buy I have made all my stuff with the matt side out.  It still wicks nicely.
The Fabricand Notions group still has black and white avail but check it out quick.  These buys close fast (within days).

If you don't know PowerDry think CoolMax or wicking fabrics.  I bought my first PowerDry from this list.  I made nightgowns out of it and was I surprised!  I live in Florida where it is hot and humid.  This is true wicking fabric!  I usually sweat terribly at night and for the first time-nice and dry.  No clammy cotton nitie clinging to me.  Heaven.  I plan on making many more PJ’s: One-seam bottoms and simple camisoles.

The list is easy to join.  Go to yahoo groups and follow the directions.  Ressy buys the fabric and is an absolute angel.  She is very good about posting to the list and answering questions.  And best of all she ships out of country.  So if you are an Oz or Kiwi or European, etc you can get in on this.  BTW   NAY  Just a happy fabric stasher.

  Click on the box "Join this group" and your off!  Doesn't cost a thing!

Oh and I just saw this for $16/metre at this site http://www.justmakeit.com/fabrics/linings/index.html

[LyndaC]

WOW!  LOUISE CUTTING - MY FAVORITE PROFESSIONAL - SAID I WAS TINY!
 

You made my day, Louise.   Thanks.  I am recovering from gall bladder surgery done immediately after the Atlanta Expo and am irritated at myself for not getting back to normal more quickly.  Your kind words were a lift!  True or not.

[LindaE]

LyndaC, 
Don't worry about not recovering to quickly after gall bladder surgery it takes time I had that alot of years ago and it does take time..   

If I remember correctly (I could be having a senior moment) but you are not very big.    Okay am I remembering correctly did I meet you 2 years ago when I came out to the Atlanta expo??   

[LyndaC]

Yes, I think I remember you!  I just feel I am kind of insignificant and am surprized whenever someone remembers me.  Especially as small!  I am 5'2" going down to 5'1" gradually.

Were you at the Expo this year?

[LindaE]

No. LyndaC I just could not  make it work so I could come  the last two years too much else going on it seems like.  I think I am going to be able to to the Kansas City, mo expo in October it is closer to home also being I live in Tulsa Oklahoma.

I do remember you.. and yes Louise is correct you are tiny.. in both height and size.

  

[Doris W. in TN]

Well, ladies,  add me to the list of One Seam Pants fans.   I bought my pattern a year ago at the Atlanta Sewing Expo due to all the great reviews of it here (and the old sewingworld) and at PR.    I don't do elastic waist anything because of some serious high hip fluff that appeared a few years ago  *and* my hips are twelve inches larger than my waist.  Can you say "fabric explosion?"  I've also had very bad experience with the few elastic waists I've put in on skirts and swear it grows on me and hangs off my hips.   I really had my doubts about making these up but I was feeling reckless and daring this week.       

This year at the Atlanta Expo, Louise suggested I make a wearable muslin from the 'what was I thinking when I bought that???'  area of my stash.  (Duh!  Why didn't I think of that???  And how did she know???   LOL)    I used a rayon batik I had and . . . wooHoooo!!!   these pants DO NOT  MAKE MY BUTT LOOK BIG.   In fact, they really are slimming.   Even my DH said they're a keeper and he has a very good eye for what flatters and what does not flatter me.

The only adjustments I made to the pattern were to lengthen by 3 or 4 inches (I'm tall) and I put in some darts in the back waist area,  using Louise's technique in her companion books to take up the extra fabric needed for my hips.    I chose my size based on the crotch curve measurement and then narrowed the pattern at the "grainline"  according to Louise's pattern & companion book instructions, by just enough to give me 4 inches of hip ease.  I used Louise's elastic for these pants.  That's all.  I have to butcher regular pants patterns until they look like coleslaw taped back together into cabbage leaves.

Since I have more pattern wadders than successes when trying a new pattern, I could not stop smiling yesterday after I tried them on.   They are wonderful and I'll definitely make more.   Soon.   Very soon.   When I get around to taking a photo, I'll put a review up over on PR.     

[Terri K]

Welcome to the club Doris!  If they didn't make women look good, why would they sell like hotcakes at $600 and up by the high end designers to women who don't sew?

Love your darling Shih Tzu.   I had two little girl Shih Tzus who were like peas in a pod.  One black & white and the other caramel with black.   

[bookish]

As Terri says, welcome to the club.  Actually, it was Terri encouraging me to get the booklets that really did it.  I altered and measured and measured and altered and ended up with a wonderfully fitting pattern.  And there's pockets and waistline treatments oh my.  Wheeee. 
 

[blue mooney]

I just made up my first straight leg pair (have made the tapered version several times) and made them flat across the front with pleats. The elastic and gathers start after the pleats. These came out really, really nice! Next time I will try narrowing the pattern a little and put in some darts in the back. I have some 4-ply silk that I've been saving for pleated pants, and I think I may have found my pattern! When I get it absolutely perfect, I'm slicing into that silk!

[Doris W. in TN]

Help please?  I am recently back to sewing after decades away.  I see there is alot of positive comment about this One Seam Pants pattern.  Pants were always a problem fitting area for me. How many pattern pieces are there in this pant?  What am I not understanding?    Before I buy it, I just want to know that there are plenty of places for fitting and altering the pattern. TIA

Stash

Stash - I have a very difficult time with pants also, to the point that I'm driving up to Cincinnatti in a few weeks to attend a Joyce Murphy pants-fitting workshop later in April.   

The OSP pattern has basically two pieces - that's it.  Waistband, which gets taped to the main pattern.  This is a loose-fitting pant below the hips so there are none of the drag lines I have lived with all my life.

I really recommend you purchase the two companion books that go with the pattern.  They have great ideas on fitting.  The first book addresses a tilted waist or swayback waist.  The second was most valuable to me, as it helped me determine my approach of choosing size by the crotch curve measurement and then narrowing the pattern piece for the hip ease.   

I made a 'wearable muslin/test garment'  figuring I'd have to toss it and tweak a little further. I posted my comments on this topic page a day or two ago about the minimal changes I made and my unexpected instant success.   

 I've already got a lovely khaki linen from my stash, have  pre-washed & machine dried 3 times, and can't wait to make my next pair.

In fact, I'm pondering making the elephant ear pockets but not on the "grainline/side seam".   Instead, I'm thinking about moving them a three  inches forward -away from the 'grainline' location.   I have a lot of curve in that high hip area (difference between waist and high hip four inches down is nine inches, all on the sides of my body) and am rather hollow where I'm pondering moving that pocket to.    Has anyone else tried this?   Side seam pockets can make me look fluffier than I am right there.    ( I look flat and thin from a side "profile view" but like J-Lo or Beyonce from the front or full rear view.)   Let's say my saddle bags are carried high?

Or should I leave the pockets where they should be?

[menelson55]

I just recently got the One-Seam pattern -- I have never seen them made up.  What tops do you ladies wear with them?  I'm hoping to get to them in the near future.

[stashpanache]

Thank you Doris for directing me here.  I thought I had read about these pants over where I was.   Could you please recommend an online retail place where I can buy these patterns and books.  I Googled but did not see the books?

I have to admit, if I could find a pants pattern that could be altered to fit me correctly and it only had one seam, I would have a new wardrobe of pants! 

Stash

[Terri K]

www.cuttinglinedesigns.com  is the site for the patterns and the booklets.

[judejean]

In fact, I'm pondering making the elephant ear pockets but not on the "grainline/side seam".   Instead, I'm thinking about moving them a three  inches forward -away from the 'grainline' location.   I have a lot of curve in that high hip area (difference between waist and high hip four inches down is nine inches, all on the sides of my body) and am rather hollow where I'm pondering moving that pocket to.    Has anyone else tried this?   Side seam pockets can make me look fluffier than I am right there.    ( I look flat and thin from a side "profile view" but like J-Lo or Beyonce from the front or full rear view.)   Let's say my saddle bags are carried high?

Or should I leave the pockets where they should be?

Doris

I've done the elephant ear pockets a couple of times and found that I didn't like them.  I did not think to do what you have suggested.  However, I highly recommend the 'cool pockets' in (I think) the Collection 1 book.  I am about a size 22 and I have to add about 4" around to be comfortable in the pants.   I find that the cool pockets rest better over my high hip fluff and look nicely tailored from the front.  I am thinking about repositioning the gathering in the front between the pockets so that there is no gathering there.  I have a little too much fabric in the middle front.

It takes awhile to do the 'Cool Pockets' but every time I do them, I get a little faster and I really like the way they look. 

I'm getting ready to cut some khaki colored tencel into some nice summer pants.  I'm even considering trying to use the instructions to make capris.  Wish me luck.

Jude in KC

[QueenBee]

These pants are truly wonderful for *high hip fluff*....ask me how I know! The booklets really open up the possibilities. I'm doing a straight leg pair now, cropped, out of a yummy striped linen, using the cool pocket. I also don't care for the elephant ear...don't know why exactly. I've not done it, but didn't like it on my friends pair.

Like a couple of others, I normally avoid elastic waists, but this fit well for me and the sport elastic is terrific stuff. The company makes a slightly narrower version and I prefer that on me, as the hip fluff in back on the sides is right up there & I get a bit of curl with the recommended width.

I also made them with the front flat over the elastic, so the gathers start about 4" or so from the center front seam on each side. I highly recommend anyone with a belly try this variation. It shifted the fullness to where it's more functional and helped fill in the dips on each side.

Hubby really liked them too, so the OSP is a real winner for me!

Rene Marie