Cutting Line Designs One Seam Pants

[JenSews]

ARGHH.  I've lost Sewing world again, though it has been slow the past few days.  I'm hoping we can restart this thread over here and I hope Louise will find it!  Louise, I know you are very busy and I hope this does not give you yet another place to check for posts, but you are sooooo much help.  I will just repost my questions here in case we can't find them again on SW!  Or if anyone else can help too, I would appreciate it! 

I've made a muslin of the tapered one-seams size MD+ and added 3/8" to the top of the waistline before adding the casing pattern piece.  I finally got around to stitching them up and they came out kind of "wierd" in the front.  The back seems to fit ok, but the front I have to pull WAY up.  If I put the front down where I think it belongs I get a fold of fabric - bagginess of about 1/2-3/4" pinched.  Also, I have a lot of gathers around the waist.  Is this normal?  I admit to making these out of a cotton/poly broadcloth which isn't very drapey, so i'm sure that emphasizes it, but I DID want to see where the fitting problems were.    I was thinking darts in the back maybe, but I thought first get rid of the front bagginess.

Here are some lovely 360 deg. pics with the pants pulled all the way up...
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jenniferhstevens/album?.dir=7020scd&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

Direct to the back: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jenniferhstevens/detail?.dir=7020scd&.dnm=4b86scd.jpg&.src=ph
Direct to the font with the pinch: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jenniferhstevens/detail?.dir=7020scd&.dnm=83c1scd.jpg&.src=ph


I figured you have seen so many of these fit so many bodies, you would probably know exactly how to fit them to me, whereas I would take several tries and still not get it quite right!  I'm glad you are around to help!

Jen

[Terri K]

Jen - the best way to let Louise know about this board is to e-mail her through her business address.  As you see from her SW posts, she's pretty busy travelling a lot of the time but, even so, she's the best and most generous in terms of her time and customer support in my opinion.   I've lost my patience with SW - they either need a bigger server or need to let us know it's time to "throw in the towel". 

[JenSews]

Terri, I did email Louise to let her know I started a backup here.  She may be traveling again.  Her last post on SW said she had just gotten back from a trip and was trying to get caught up on things.  I am content to wait for her wonderful help.   She is very generous with her support.  I just want to make sure I get a good fit of these.  I have so many great plans with all of her ideas from her one-seams booklets!

Jen

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am here...well, I am everywhere...I have been getting all the samples ready for the Martha Pullen's show finished for the day before 'Sit and Sew' usually I have 24 in class...they e-mailed me and asked if I could have a few more...33 is now what I am sitting at. I also had to finish my part of an article  for Threads.....more on that later.

I have to finish step-by-step samples for a filming of American Sews today...I have been working on them for awhile. I am filming on June 15 and it is showcase several different Rowenta Irons. I have been asked to be one of their spokes people for Rowenta. I know they have a person for home dec and another for quilting...I am garment sewing person.

All this is to let you know why I haven't been around as much on sewing world.....does anyone know what is going on over there?   Hope we get more people over there...is it going to be difficult to let people know we are here? Anyway...I hope to be back to you later today...if I can work straight through and have some time later to answer fitting questions. till later, Louise

[Ann C]

 ;)Louise,

There are good number of us who are over here!  I still (try) to check SW to see if I'm missing anything but it is so slowwwww!  I think we've been trying to let everyone know to come here in case SW disappears! 

Sounds like you are extremely busy - that's good - but I'm sure hectic!  Be sure to fill us in on when things are going to be happening so we don't miss anything!   

[JenSews]

I've downloaded a copy of each page (all 7 pages!) of the One-Seam pants thread from SW in case someone needs it for reference and doesn't want to go through the wait!

Louise, I'm glad you found us.   I keep checking SW, but it takes several minutes to load and to even post anything.

I can hardly wait to hear what news you have.  A Threads article too?  Wow, do let us know when!

Jen

[LindaE]

 Louise,
     I am glad to see you over here.. Sounds like you have been very busy.

 

[Terri K]

Louise -  Welcome from the cool and rainy western NC mountains.

[JenSews]

I'm still working on a pair of One seams.  I made some more changes and cut out a new pair.  I'm really getting quite a few summer pjs out of these muslins.

Now I'm having another problem....  When I sit down, the back waist pulls down to accomidate my rear, but doesn't really return to where it should be when I stand back up.  I've tried tightenening the waist elastic, which helped some, but not quite enough.  I added some length to the top of the back crotch (made the casing smaller in the back) and that helped a little more, but it still isn't quite there yet.  Do I need more crotch length or do I have to scoop out the back a little?  The back looks ok if I'm standing up STILL, but I have to move around and sit down occasionally LOL!  How do I know which adjustment to do, or is it just trial and error and I'm going to end up with 20 muslins?

I'm wearing my muslin around the house to see where it needs tweaking.  I really need a good pic of the back of someone's one seams so I know what they are supposed to look like when I am done! 

Jen

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Well, I am here in Dallas...was able to get most of the booth set up today with Sandy's help...lots of pretty new fabric. I have 33 in my all day 'Sit and Sew' tomorrow. So far all went well...lots of scheduling to get to this point...

Jen...You need more room in the back crotch length...I would not add it to the top of the pants...but scoop out the curve a bit deeper...save your little sections...you cut off and make sure you cut out the crotch...at about 1/4" at a time starting from nothing  at the center back crotch stitch a bit deeper by the time you get to the curve and then stitch back to nothing heading to the back inseams. Start by turning the pants inside out and then one leg down inside the other this will make you sewing the crotch easier to see and sew.

what type of fabric is you 'muslin' made from? Make sure it is always weighty and drapey fabric....the back of your Pants should hang directly from the fullest part of your bottom in the back.

Well, I have 'hit the wall' it has been a very long day...keep me posted to what you are all doing...

Maybe someone needs to post this address in every chatroom subject...just in case sewing world goes down for good.  will write more later. Louise

[New Zealand girl]

Louise how nice you found this site, your expertize is always wanted by us all.

Jen, I am glad Louise finally found your posts, I remember your posting on SW, and putting all the pictures up of your pants, and then the site crashed.  So glad she was able to help you - now you should have a flying start.

Have you looked at all the very tapered one-seams on her gallery, they really are beautiful, some done in dupioni silk.

Fran

[JenSews]

Thanks Louise, I'll try scooping out a bit of the back crotch.  This last muslin was made out of a lightweight cotton so they draped a lot better than the stiff purple broadcloth.  After wearing them around the house all day they seemed to fit better.  They were too thin to wear out in public.    I didn't add pockets because these are REALLY lightweight pj pants.  I still have a little much fabric in the front even though I did the "pie piece" overlap of 5/8" at the front hipline.  I will scoop out the back a little and add some darts to take out the excess fabric in the hollow of my back and post a pic.  I'm trying to just make one small change at a time.  It takes me awhile since the kiddos had minimum day today and they will again tomorrow.

Jennifer

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear Jen,

I would like to see you make the next pair out of a drapey rayon or microfiber...some of the fitting issues might be the cotton fabric. I always suggest to make your first pair(s) without the side pockets. This way the fitting becomes the most important.

I had a grand time presenting the sit and sew yesterday here in Arlington...I am teaching 3 different classes today while Sandy takes of the booth...have not had a minute to walk the show to see who is new and who is returning...this is always a nice venue.

It looks like sewingworld is back up...so i will be posting her and there...but I hope you all let others know to come this way if there are porblems with finding everyone.

till later, Louise

[Ann]

I am wanting to make a pair of One Seam Pants and didn't get the opportunity to print off the information on Sewing World. Did any one happen to save it on their hard drive and could email it to me. I did read a bit about what kind of fabric to buy and found a piece that will work but now I want to learn about what was said about fitting them.
Thanks in advance.
Ann

[JenSews]

Ann, I have that file, it is rather large.  I will see what I can do about emailing it to you.  I downloaded it so long ago, but there was a good amount of info there.  If there were any posts after my download in May, I won't have those posts.  It is 7-8 pages long.  I haven't looked at it for awhile, but I may have condensed it some.  I'll check.  Give me a day or two, I'm rather slow here.

Maybe there is a place here for me to post a file?  If a moderator is looking at this, can you help?  I've had a few people contact me about this.  I certainly don't mind getting it together and emailing it or posting it

Jen

[Lisa]

Ann, I have that file, it is rather large.  I will see what I can do about emailing it to you.  I downloaded it so long ago, but there was a good amount of info there.  If there were any posts after my download in May, I won't have those posts.  It is 7-8 pages long.  I haven't looked at it for awhile, but I may have condensed it some.  I'll check.  Give me a day or two, I'm rather slow here.

Maybe there is a place here for me to post a file?  If a moderator is looking at this, can you help?  I've had a few people contact me about this.  I certainly don't mind getting it together and emailing it or posting it

Jen

Hi Jen!

There is a new program, Pando, which is for transferring large files without having to send them via e-mail.  It's been favorably reviewed by both the Wall Street Journal and The New York Times.  Several of us have tried it and think it's just wonderful!  It uses bit-torrent technology and can send incredibly large files very quickly and easily. The software is extremely user friendly, and for now, at least, it is free! (Who knows if it will stay that way...  At any rate, if you decide to try it, clickon the "Get Pando Free" button and let it install.  I think their instructions are clear, but if they aren't and they don't help, let me know!

The Additional Options under a reply window would permit you to upload various kinds of files, but since this material belonged to a number of posters at SW (and presumably to SW as well), I'm a little uneasy saying that it would be ok to publish it here without the consent of either all of the posters or of Sewing World.

Let me know if you have questions or need more info!

Lisa

[Terri K]

Regarding information on making the One-Seam pants, Louise's pattern is her own design with that name copyrighted and the pattern contains exhaustive fitting information plus different leg widths and pockets.   She also has published two booklets that show how to change these and add things to knock-off many designer styles.    There isn't anything that was posted on SW, unless it was individual fitting advice and suggestions, that isn't contained in either the pattern or those booklets.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I'm always here to help answer questions about the One-Seam Pants© pattern in the way of  personal fit, fabrics, and sewing techniques. I never downloaded anything to a file myself, I keep all that in my 'brain file'...keeps the cobwebs cleared out. So if you have any questions please just ask, I'm more than happy to answer...I finally got a partial day to sew today. I finished an ABO little top and a matching pair of One-Seam Pants©. Of course the jacket to match is on its way to Peoria...where I am teaching next weekend. I hope the whole outfit gets together soon!

Till later, Louise

[Lisa]

I'm always here to help answer questions about the One-Seam Pants© pattern in the way of  personal fit, fabrics, and sewing techniques. I never downloaded anything to a file myself, I keep all that in my 'brain file'...keeps the cobwebs cleared out. So if you have any questions please just ask, I'm more than happy to answer...I finally got a partial day to sew today. I finished an ABO little top and a matching pair of One-Seam Pants©. Of course the jacket to match is on its way to Peoria...where I am teaching next weekend. I hope the whole outfit gets together soon!

Till later, Louise

Louise, I have to admit that I watched your threads on Sewing World with continued admiration.  Your willingness to help and on-going availability were (and are) wonderful, and it's a pleasure to see you here!   (The least you should end up with is your entire outfit in the place it belongs--on you! )

Lisa

[Ann]

Thanks everyone. I had looked at the info on SW and I am mainly interested in the type of fabric to use. In our town, only Walmart carries garment fabrics and I had to make sure that the fabric was correct for the pants and I know there was something on SW about that.

Ann

[Julia in Houston]

Ann,the suggested fabrics are listed on the back of the pattern envelope. I can no longer read what's there, but basically you need to use a soft, drapey fabric.  However, no crinkle fabrics and don't use slinky or slinky-types for the first pair.  I have 3 pairs cut out - wool crepe, untextured tencel, and rayon challis.  I had a piece of linen designated for OneSeams, but so far, the washing hasn't softened it enough - it's still too stiff. I also have a knit faux suede that will work well, a heavy sueded rayon, and a few others that I've forgoten the names. 

I do not think you'll find much suitable at WalMart, though sometimes their selections surprise me.  You may need to try some of the internet vendors.  One that I can recommend is Julie Culshaw at http://www.timmelfabrics.com   She will send swatches and she also has a toll free number.  Louise also sells suitable fabrics, but you'll need to call or email her as I don't think they're on the website.  Do make a trial pair first.  I have found the inseam to be too far forward for my liking and still need to play with the pattern to change that.  Otherwise, I love the pattern, the instructions, and the ease of making these pants.

At one point, someone - maybe Louise - posted a way to test the fabric while in the store. I don't remember the particulars and so far haven't found it in the files that I saved.

Julia in Houston

[LisaB]

I saved a post from SW where Louise described how to tell if a fabric is drapey enough. Here's what I saved: "Hold the length of fabric up to you at your waist. The selvages will be vertical. Gather the raw edge in your two hands at your waist and look in a mirror. Does it hang in long vertical folds (good)? Does the fabric want to spring out in front of you like a gathered skirt (not good)?"

I hope that helps. Maybe Louise will check in and add more.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

i'M HERE...WHAT YOU SAID BOTH OF YOU IS GREAT...i AM TRYING TO FILL THE aPPLIQUE ORDERS BEFORE THE DEAD...eek...sorry cap lock left on...before the USP guy comes today...Yes, you want a weightly drapy fabric...the only 2 fabrics (oops I just thought of a third) you don't wnat to think about using are...quilting cotton...to light weight...denim, that you have to beat back as you walk though the isle of the chain stores and just in... wool gab...unless you want that wonderful 'tea cozy'[ look!....most every other of wool will work great...I have a pair in Tasmanina wool I can wear in August and a wonderful pair in wool crepe.

got to run be back later...think up more questions??? later, Louise

[bookish]

Louise, can you tell me a bit about what's in the two one-seam-pants booklets?  I have (and have nearly worn out) the basic pattern with all its great information and am interested in the booklets and would like to know what they offer so I can choose.

[Ann]

Our Walmart store has some dress fabric but I think I will look to Timmel Fabrics for a piece. I will try out a wool fabric but it won't be soon. We sold 160 acres of land with the house on it and will be developing another piece of land we own. It is slightly crazy around here and I start work on Monday and at a new school. Principals get moved whenever so we have to be mentally prepared (or fake it real good).

I will keep in touch.

Ann

[Terri K]

Connie, I purchased both booklets on the One Seam Pants while attending a day long workshop when Louise came to Waechter's Silk Shop last.  I met so many nice sewing friends there too.  Louise's web site, www.Fabriccollections.com, has a list of the contents under the booklets section.    I was just going through mine last night while doing my fall wardrobe planning.   What Louise did was write extensive how-tos with illustrations, measurements and templates for modifying her pants pattern based on pants she bought or examined made by high-end designers.  There are some really neat modifications from the waist to the hem, overlays, copying the Eskandar wrap pants.    I never would have guessed there would be so many classy ways to do these. 

[Cat1]

Louise, I made my first pair of your One Seam Pants (wide legged) out of cotton, the fitting was fine tuned by yourself on SW, and they are absolutely perfect.    Whilst I'm slim/tall, I have wide hips and a flat bottom, the wide legs is flattering to my hips. The only problem, it's winter here and I'll have to wait a few months to wear them!

Thanks for a great pattern 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

HOW SWEET...YOU MAKE MY NIGHT! AND DAY!! I THOUGHT I  WOULD POP IN ONE MORE TIME BEFORE I  WHEN TO BED...I'LL HAVE NICE DREAMS NOW....AGAIN THANKS, LOUISE

[bookish]

Thanks Terri... I'm having a 'duh' moment not to have checked her website in the first place.

[Irene L]

I'm new here...Just signed on.  I made a pair of one-seam pants it was a total disaster.  The fabric was wrong...measurements weren't right...so back to the drawing board for me...I love the looks of these pants...have got to get them to fit me...

Irene L
Central IL

[Lisa]

I'm new here...Just signed on.  I made a pair of one-seam pants it was a total disaster.  The fabric was wrong...measurements weren't right...so back to the drawing board for me...I love the looks of these pants...have got to get them to fit me...

Irene L
Central IL

Irene, I'm glad you found us, but sorry to hear about your pants.  Presumably help will be forthcoming on the pants from those in the know--but let me know if you need any help with the forum's functions

Again, glad you're here!

Lisa

[Terri K]

Irene - did you use Louise Cutting's pattern and follow the measurement directions?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Irene, if you have used my One-Seam Pants© Pattern...I will be able to help put in a size...I will need your hip measurement, crotch measurement from center front to center back at your waist. How tall are you and are you fluffy? Are you making the straight or tapered pair...and what fabric did you use? what is the 'wrong' you are finding?   Questions? questions? let me know. Louise 

[JudyM]

Hi Louise,

How do you alter one-seams for a short front crotch length and a long back one?  I need part of the front moved to the back to be comfortable.

TIA, Judy