Wardrobe and Capsule planning references

[Susan in Saint John]

My copy of Sewing with Stitches Australia Vol 17 No 11 arrived yesterday.  Much of this issue is devoted to wardrobe planning.  Lynn Cook has started another wardrobe based on 7 bottoms and 5 tops plus a dress than can be worn as a skirt and a jacket.  The principle that Lynn espouses is to make every item work with 5 other garments.  If you follow this principle, you'll never have orphans in your closet.  There is also an article that discusses proportions which I found quite helpful.

[sdBev]

My copy of Sewing with Stitches Australia Vol 17 No 11 arrived yesterday.  ...

Definitely, I've got to subscribe to this magazine.  Where can I get it in the US?

[Susan in Saint John]

You can subscribe through Stonehouse Publications http://store.stonehouse-publications.com/.  The magazines arrive sporadically.  I think they come sea mail and are then packaged here and mailed.  Sometimes I get 2 issues practically on the same day.  I think they now publish 14 issues a year so the subscription is fairly expensive.  Threads is still my favourite sewing magazine and Australian Stitches is my second favourite.

[Licarrit]

you can also buy individual issues through Erica's (http://www.ericas.com/sewing/au_mags/austitches.htm) They currently have through 17 (10) If you click on the cover image it gives you the table of contents.

[DebbieY]

The next issue (Vol 17 no 12) has part two of wardrobe planning - another 7 items added, two new patterns and the rest were the same patterns as used in part one, and a couple of new colours added. As well as all the usual there is an article on wardrobe storage, nothing I didn't know but a good prod to get me doing some sorting and rearranging.

I just re-subbed to the magazine as I got an offer I couldn't refuse - 30 issues with some extras thrown in (magazine holder, scissors, and needle pack) for $130. At $8.95 an issue in the shop I have saved myself a tidy little sum that can go towards something else The only fault I have found with the magazine is that it is fairly thin, I get into reading it and then I am at the back cover already. Just as well they're put out every 3 weeks now ...

[mcgintie]

Hi,
I have many back copies up to Vol16 No 3 - I believe it was Lynn Cook who invented the SWAP concept. They are all very useful and her past wardrobes are still good to look at, and how to articles are very well illustrated - snap up any back copies if you see them going cheap. I am in two minds whether to start a subscription again as it seems that since they went to more frequent publication they are less interesting. I especially liked seeing patterns made up for the magazine, not just republishing the catalogue photos. Would anyone care to comment on this?

[marciae]

I feel the same as you.  However, I let my subscription expire a year ago.  I found that while I enjoyed most of the mag there were times I didn't 'read' as much as I should have.  That was especially true when you'd get two at a time - - along with Threads, Burda and Vogue!!   At the moment I'm also seriously considering droping Burda!!

[mcgintie]

Marcia,
I haven't bought a Burda WOF since the June 09 issue - but I was leafing through back copies this am before venturing out to a cold wet working day - and I was surprised at how many styles are still current. People on this site have already mentioned how fashion forward they are. Looking at the January edition 2010 on their website. I feel that the basic styles are good (and people are unanimous as to how well they make up) but it's the materials and styling that we are not always keen on. The January edition is full of white woollens that look odd to most people. (My TnT skirt is 108 from November 05 - still current fashion if I change the length now and then).
I went through a patch of not liking Threads but I usually buy it now it has settled down a bit. I especially like the little line drawings of patterns that readers have tested.

[Towanda]

Last weekend as part of getting ready to do the SWAP, I went through my Burda collection and pulled out 23 mags that had designs that appealed to me. It was nice to see how many patterns are timeless and would fit into my wardrobe today. I appreciate my mags even more now that I'm learning to get comfortable with tracing patterns.

[lydia]

sdBev.....great new photo.  Lookin' great!

[ejvc]

Hi, just wanted to direct your attention to an entry at Lisanne's excellent blog, Sewing Plums, where she reviews (from Vicki's notes in the Sewing Workshop thread) Linda Lee's layering wardrobe plan and matches it to some patterns.  I always appreciate Lisanne's analytical mind and the way she works through the available choices, even while I think OMG I could never wear that! to at least half of her choices 

Here I'm quoting her paraphrasing of Vicki:

Bottoms :

1. slim line pant.
2. soft pant in a silhouette and length that flatters your figure.
3. skirt in a shape and length that works with all of the tops.

Base layer :

4. basic tee or shell (knit or bias) that has your best neckline, shape and sleeve length.
5. surplice wrap tee or top.

More and more layers :

6. thin, sleek cardigan that goes over the tee shirts and under the vest or jacket.
7. vest/ sleeveless jacket that fits under jacket and coat.
8. shirt jacket, jean jacket, Miyake-esque shirt, or your version of a classic shirt that dresses down everything, works with the tee shirts and tops – ideal if the vest slips under or over this piece.
9. distinctive jacket that layers over cardigan and vest, under the coat.

Outerwear :

10. jacket/ coat or rain coat that goes with everything.

[ejvc]

Sorry, I just wanted to add:

This plan is very heavy on top layers, and doesn't include dresses.  In that way it's perfect for me :-) but I think you need more than two base layers unless you want to end up rather smelly by the end of the week.  So I'd double or triple the number of tees/wrap tees and then I think it would be good.

[Lisanne]

Many thanks for the mention Elizabeth

My closet is bursting with white shirts  -  I tend to forget that when describing wardrobe plans  
And the original wardrobe notes say you need several tees  -  I was mainly thinking about patterns.

[RuthieK]

Fascinating, and how did I manage to miss the lovely Lisanne's blog??

I wonder if another way to do a plan would be to look at the laundry basket. After all that's what I chose to wear last week, so it should tell me a lot!!

[Susan in Saint John]

More and more layers :

6. thin, sleek cardigan that goes over the tee shirts and under the vest or jacket.
7. vest/ sleeveless jacket that fits under jacket and coat.
8. shirt jacket, jean jacket, Miyake-esque shirt, or your version of a classic shirt that dresses down everything, works with the tee shirts and tops – ideal if the vest slips under or over this piece.
9. distinctive jacket that layers over cardigan and vest, under the coat.

Outerwear :

10. jacket/ coat or rain coat that goes with everything.

I think this is tricky in terms of getting the right amount of ease so the garments do layer but not so much ease that they bunch.  Then you've got to consider whether the necklines will coordinate.  #9 is the most challenging

Has anyone else thought this through and could you share your suggestions please?

[Lisanne]

Good points Susan.

For anyone who's interested in combining necklines, our previous discussion of this starts on page 8, April 19 of this strand.

I wear multiple layers  - mostly raised neck mandarin, mock, funnel, what we call 'polo' necklines - only one vest with a padded collar at a time .  I have got quite a long neck, which helps. . . but I'll be interested in anything anyone has to say !  

(By 'polo' I don't mean the slit neck with a collar and buttons.  I think you call it a turtleneck.)

[DebbieY]

For wearing under vests and round or v neck sweaters I prefer a shirt or blouse with a collar, and either that or a jewel neckline under a jacket. I am not fond of the polo neck as I don't like anything too close to my neck. That said it is very rare for me to actually wear layers, most of the year I can get away with a sleeveless top, a t-shirt, or a long sleeve shirt/top.

[ejvc]

Debbie - I think one of the realisations for me of this thread is that to create a great wardrobe plan you really have to know yourself.  Some plans work for layers, some don't (the 5-dress SWAP comes to mind).  Some plans work for hot climates, some don't.  Some plans work for the city, some for the country, some for the chic, some for the romantic, etc.  A successful wardrobe plan to my mind has to match its wearer: in terms of colour, in terms of style, in terms of location, in terms of season, and in terms of body shape.  And this is why so many fail, especially the "10 garments you must own" type - I think everyone's list is quite individual.  Probably those based initially on your closet (or laundry basket) are the best bet.  That said, it's always fun to read someone else's list.

Here is my list of the 10 ESSENTIAL garments (for me) to own:

1. Casual trousers.  I live in jeans-styled trousers of one kind or another; they are absolutely indispensible to me.  I want six pairs.  Six, do you hear me?  But I can get by with two pair.
2. Camisoles.  I am a) very cold, and b) like gauzy shirts.  If I could have only one, it would be flesh-coloured.  If two, the second one would be blue.
3. T-shirts, both short and long-sleeved. For me, in creams and blues.
4. A great woven shirt.  Good for layers.  Ideally, at least one plain and one fancy.  Colours? Blue and pink.
5. A waistcoat/vest.  Did I mention I'm always freezing? Colours? Neutral.
6. A cardigan sweater.  Ideally one light, one heavy wool. Colours? Neutral.
7. A great skirt suit.  For random special occasions where one needs to look sharp.  Skirt and jacket should be wearable separately. Colours? Dark neutral (black)
8. A great dress and matching wrap or jacket or something.  For going out.  You know, once a year.  (Colour? I dunno - sparkly? whatever)
9. A light coat. (Colour: Neutral)
10. A heavy coat. (Colour: netural)

In other words, colour only in shirts, LOL.

[DebbieY]

My needs are very basic ...

1. denim jeans
2. denim or cotton capri's or cropped pants
3. knit tops - mainly sleeveless & short sleeves, a couple of long sleeved
4. woven tops - as above
5. lightweight jacket or short trench for winter
6. yoga pants for exercise - cropped and long
7. pjyamas
8. Swimwear

Like everything else my needs will change as my life changes but this is what I wear now. Perhaps a denim style jacket, vest and skirt could come in handy but I don't really need them. Once I get my wardrobe sorted (old things out etc) I will be working on making sure I have enough of the basics above before I think about adding any extras that probably won't get as much use.

[RuthieK]

.... to create a great wardrobe plan you really have to know yourself.  Some plans work for layers, some don't (the 5-dress SWAP comes to mind).  Some plans work for hot climates, some don't.  Some plans work for the city, some for the country, some for the chic, some for the romantic, etc.  A successful wardrobe plan to my mind has to match its wearer: in terms of colour, in terms of style, in terms of location, in terms of season, and in terms of body shape.  And this is why so many fail, especially the "10 garments you must own" type - I think everyone's list is quite individual.  Probably those based initially on your closet (or laundry basket) are the best bet.  That said, it's always fun to read someone else's list.

Elizabeth I think you have hit on the heart of the problem :-)
I'm not as cold as you but always have a jacket/cardigan type layer over my dress or pants/top, skirt/top.

[sdBev]

.... to create a great wardrobe plan you really have to know yourself.  Some plans work for layers, some don't (the 5-dress SWAP comes to mind).  Some plans work for hot climates, some don't.  Some plans work for the city, some for the country, some for the chic, some for the romantic, etc.  A successful wardrobe plan to my mind has to match its wearer: in terms of colour, in terms of style, in terms of location, in terms of season, and in terms of body shape.  And this is why so many fail, especially the "10 garments you must own" type - I think everyone's list is quite individual.  Probably those based initially on your closet (or laundry basket) are the best bet.  That said, it's always fun to read someone else's list.

Elizabeth I think you have hit on the heart of the problem :-)
I'm not as cold as you but always have a jacket/cardigan type layer over my dress or pants/top, skirt/top.

And I love the look of the layering pieces.  It is very flattering on my figure.  I used to wear jackets all the time, now I've switched to vests.  A vest works for me summer and winter, provides places to stash my toys (pda, phone and anything else) as well as taking my look up just a notch.  I really do get better service when I look better. 

I agree that Elizabeth has hit the nail on the head.  So many plans by the professionals don't work because the plans don't work for our individual lifestyles. 

[Licarrit]

Eileen Fisher always shows her stuff layered and with a variety of necklines. Would be worth taking a peek at, I have been buying her clothes lately (at deep discount), LOVE her fabrics, drape-y but not clinging and I am desperate to figure out how she cuts her tops they are magic for making my appleness less noticable.
L

[LauraTS]

Another link for your delectation: The Classics: 10 Pieces for a Timeless Wardrobe 2010, from Style Bakery. Their list includes:
1. pencil skirt
2. blazer
3. trench coat
4. cardigan
5. feminine blouse
6. little black dress
7. dark jeans
8. classic pumps
9. statement necklace
10. 24 hour handbag

I think I have all of those except the trench, as I prefer coats without belts. Their idea of a statement necklace and handbag may be different than mine, however. 

On 2009's list they had black pants, a day dress and a good suit instead of the blazer, pumps and necklace. They were also more general about the skirt, just specifying knee-length, and saying if an A-line silhouette suits you better to opt for that. I do think that the pencil skirt is a more modern silhouette right now, but that's irrelevant if it makes you look bad.

[ejvc]

A link to the Mississippi State Extension Service - a fairly classic planning approach.   Some nice diagrams.  They divide into a "basic," a "neutral" and a "colour" as a good basis for colour planning.  Hard to tell, but perhaps "basics" are dark? If you relate them to the seasonal colour palette, you might have black--->winter (clear/cool); navy--->summer (muted/cool); brown---->spring (clear/warm); olive --->autumn (muted/warm).  Whaddaya reckon?  Probably not very clever, but fun to play with.

http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p2228.htm

I've often wondered why, as someone with cool and muted colouring, I look nice in brown (which I shouldn't wear) and like death in mauve (apparently a good colour).  I put it down to the neglect of red as an element of colouring.  I have a lot of red in my skin, which, with the blue undertone, means that mauve makes me look splotchy.  I defer to RuthieK, our resident colour expert.

[Licarrit]

On the subject of color, I am kind of a nightmare being the offspring of wildly divergent parents so "finding" myself on traditional color charts is tough. I am really enjoying working my way through the book The Color of Style. This guy's theory is that all of your colors should come from your colors so "your" black comes from the ring around your iris, "your" red from the color of your pinched finger tip, etc. It has been fascinating and I have found a range of colors that (finally!) works with my wonky coloring and the explanation for why some of the colors that I loved worked even when they weren't on the charts. I'm going to do a more in depth review for SEWN but I highly recommend the book.

[Lisanne]

This guy's theory is that all of your colors should come from your colors so "your" black comes from the ring around your iris

How fascinating  -  the ring round my iris is grey blue  -  no wonder I have difficulty with wearing black !
(Like Licarrit I've always had problems with assigning my colour grouping -  not only the grey blue, but also auburn tints in dark ash brown hair -  that combination never appears in anyone's scheme  )

[ejvc]

Didn't Shannon do that thing where she used an app to create a colour palette based on a close-up of her eye?

ETA, found it, and quick-and-dirty image capture of my iris (not perfect light, of course) shows as follows:


My eyes are slightly bluer than this would indicate, but quite interesting.

[Licarrit]

Lisanne, Yes! I always had the ash brown hair with red/auburn highlights add in the Fair/olive skin and yellow brown with milk chocolate and orange(!?!) flecks eyes and HELP!  I would be classified a deep winter but all the jewel tones would somehow get muddied on me and I never understood it. My mom is a grey/blue eyed blonde (used to be) with dark olive skin and my dad had black hair and eyes with lily white/olive skin (think the underbelly of a fish!) They both had bad feet too so probably never should have had kids! Now that I am starting to go grey, my hair has lost all the auburn and looks almost dead black but with "glitter" from the white strands. My hairdresser keeps telling me it will get lighter, 3 years in and it gets darker somehow, she is freaking out!

[DebbieF]

WOW! I used the color pallette generator and got this:http://www.cssdrive.com/imagepalette/index.php.  Not exactly what I was expecting!  I always thought I was a warm spring by color analysis, but if I go by this, I am more of a summer....the tones are quite muted and not at all warm.  If I use a close up of my eye, the colors get even more blue and muted...almost a gray/lavender tone!

[ejvc]

Debbie, the link didn't work?  But that is interesting.  Still, your eyes are only one part of your overall look, and warm/cool is generally done by skin tone.  If you thought grey/blue makes you look blah, chances are it still does.  I look pretty blah in olive.

[DebbieF]

I find it particularly interesting, as I have always waffled between the "Spring" and "Summer" pallettes.  I went to this website http://www.thescienceofpersonaldress.com/index.htm and discovered alot about my coloring.  I am very light, but "balanced" If I follow the summer with an autumn influence, I see most of the colors that are most flattering for me.  These also match the somewhat muted/balanced colors that showed up in my pallette!  Soft grey/green, grayed out blues, soft greens, charcoal.  Very muted and "balanced".  I also like where she shows how to wear black balanced by camel or ivory.  It really makes a lot of sense.  A bought a book a few years ago entitled "More Alive with Color" and the author's color pallette for "sunrise" really matches what showed up on the pallette from the color generator.  I think I'll have to go dig out the book!

[Licarrit]

Leatrice Eiseman wrote More Alive and she also works with Pantone on the color trend reports. Great stuff and I came closest to finding "me" in her palettes but it was still just a little off. On hers I shaded between Sunset and Sunlight(?) Which should be mutually exclusive.

[Lisa]

Ok, this is kind of fun!

My iris-generated pallette looks like this:

No wonder I wear a lot of black...

Lisa

[Licarrit]

Okay, how the heck are you guys getting the picture of your eye, I get a big blurry mess! Story of my life!

[Robin]

That color palette generator is so cool!  I already know what colors work for me but I have been struggling to identify colors for my 16 year old niece.  I am going to sew a prom dress for her and I plan to shop fabrics by myself before I take her to the store.  I will sew a muslin first and I thought I'd look for a cotton that's in a good color for her.  She has the lightest skin I've ever seen, her hair is a dark blonde /light brown and her eyes are ..hazel.. I guess.  They are a pretty non-descript color.
In a way, she is like a blank slate and she uses makeup to create the color palette she wants.  I know she is going to pick what she wants, but ... I thought it would be nice to be ready with suggestions if she asks.