Author Topic: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook  (Read 7066 times)

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Offline Violet Peacock

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Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« on: July 08, 2008, 11:02:15 PM »
Hello

I have been advised that you are the authority on FBA and reading you blog it certainly seems so...your clothes are beautiful.

I have yet to attempt a FBA, and was hoping you might be able to help me.

For the Julycc I am making the wrap shirt

Im a little confused, as there is no bust dart to adjust, just a waist dart. I have also read a few things online and I get the impression a FBA on a wrap top isnt as easy as I might require it to be...any advice?

Lindsay

Offline Karendee

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #1 on: July 08, 2008, 11:13:00 PM »
LLB,
I found her blog (that's where she lists her tutorials) in the search box here. Her site is :Stitchresandseams.blogspot.com. If this doesn't get you there, just type in Debbie Cook FBA and it Will lead to her posts. Sorry I can't hyperlink this for you.

Karen

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #2 on: July 08, 2008, 11:19:37 PM »
I'm not Debbie, but I'll chime in. Cute pattern!!

You don't necessarily need to start with a bust dart to add an FBA. You can start from scratch and add a bust dart in addition to the waist dart on the garment. I suppose you could add the shaping at the waist dart only, but it would probably be better to have it in both locations if you are busty.

Debbie has several tutorials in addition to her blog. Sorry I don't have the link right now, I'm at work. Also, there are several tutorials within the Sewing Divas blog (www.sewingdivas.com), and I think Ann has some dart/bust tutorials on her blog (www.gorgeousthings.com).

Hope this helps. I will try to add the links when I get home later on.

Offline vtmartha

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #3 on: July 08, 2008, 11:22:23 PM »
Maybe this will get you started.

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2008, 11:24:32 PM »
Thanks vtmartha, this was the page I was planning to link to.

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #5 on: July 08, 2008, 11:25:52 PM »
Thanks all..I have read all of Debbie's tutorals, and also the ones on the Sewing DIva's site. I think my issue is that the top im attempting doesnt neatly fall into any of the things I have read, so Im a little out of my depth. Mt Fit for Real People book seems to have an answer for every top imaginable, except one with just a waist dart/a wrap top...This is definatly the time I need someone to guide me through what I need to do..

Offline Karla

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2008, 12:50:16 AM »
The wrap thing can get really confusing.  I think it helps to trace the pattern front, leaving off the wrap part.  Just trace from the CF to the side seam.  Do the alteration as if it were an ordinary bodice with a dart.  Once you have that alteration figured out and the pattern is all patched and glued together, THEN figure out if the wrap extension needs to be changed.  I'd just lay the original pattern extension over the altered bodice and make any changes necessary so that the wrap extension is long enough to reach the sideseams; in other words, if your bodice alteration resulted in a slightly wider midriff or waist, you'll probably have to change the wrap extension to match.***  Then and only then will you re-introduce the wrap extension and the half-bodice to each other, using tape to "seal the relationship."

***Ann's FBA tutorial shows how she had to alter the extensions.  http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/03/09/adjusting-for-a-full-bust-on-a-wrap-top/

 

« Last Edit: July 09, 2008, 12:54:09 AM by Karla »

Offline DeniseM

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2008, 12:26:05 PM »
With a waist dart you would just alter the pattern as in FFRP, adding a side dart, then at the end pivot it into the waist dart. Try it on a muslin first but it should work fine.

Offline vtmartha

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2008, 01:08:01 PM »
Lindsay, it may help you to use a simpler bodice to perfect your FBA - and then move on from there.

Offline Robin

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2008, 02:02:53 PM »
Lindsay, it may help you to use a simpler bodice to perfect your FBA - and then move on from there.

I totally agree.  I am in the process of learning the same sort of thing you are, Lindsay.

I started with a very simple pattern so that I could get the concepts down first.
Not very exciting but, it is what it is.
Here is the pattern I am working with:

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2008, 03:45:59 PM »
I think you all might be right.

I have been looking through the pattern company sites, and have found this New Look 6808



This has bust and waist darts, would this be ok?

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2008, 04:20:32 PM »
Something like that would probably work fine. Very cute--you have a great eye for patterns!

However, as I said before, you don't have to start with a garment that has darts. You can add all of your dart shaping from scratch. In fact, you may want to begin with something similar but a little less fitted--kind of a generic top (I know that probably doesn't help you much!!) The reason I say this is this: if you start with a garment that's close fitting, it's trickier to get the fit exactly right and it's more noticeable if you're off. Whereas, if you start with a basic blouse (for example), if the fit is a little off, it can still be worn and you will have a sense of accomplishment and a successful learning experience. The dress Robin showed is more of the fit I'm talking about, not tight, not loose.

Once you've learned how to do a basic FBA, you'll develop the ability to shift dart placement around. Then you don't have to depend on a pattern company to tell you where the darts are--because you can but them wherever you need them.

Another resource for you--Singer had a great book called "the Perfect Fit" that is my starting place for all FBA's I do. Lots of illustrations and examples. How to add a dart where there isn't one, how to make an existing dart bigger, moving a dart, dartless bust adjustments, etc etc. I think it's still in print in some form or another.

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #12 on: July 09, 2008, 04:29:37 PM »
To be honest, the reson I choose this is becasue I have No patterns even close to lose..I dont wear loose at all. I totally appreciate what your saying but I know if I use something looser, i wont wear it ever, so its a bit of a waist. Id like to try with this, and work with it till i get the fit I like.

I know that sounds a bit daft maybe, but I really think i can do this, so want to give it a try.

Of course, when it all goes wrong, im still allowed to come on here and cry  ;)

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #13 on: July 09, 2008, 04:44:27 PM »
I don't mean baggy, just not skin tight.

Here's an example:

http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V7906.htm?search=7906&page=1

I can't get an image set up right now. But look at the sleeveless one. Real simple, and the pattern describes the top as close-fitting. If you need to build in a tighter fit, you can easily do that as part of the process. For example waist darts can be added if necessary to make it even closer and you can always take in the side seams too. It would be an easy one to practice with

I'd consider the New Look a bit of a challenge, even though I think it's adorable (and you've got me thinking of buying it).

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #14 on: July 09, 2008, 05:05:05 PM »
I had a second look and on second thought, I'd suggest the following. For the first attempt, try View B, which is the plain short sleeve top. That way you have less issues to deal with--then, once the FBA is correct, you can apply those changes when making View C (the darling pink one). Consider View B to be a "muslin", not necessarily something you'd wear. This pattern has a lot of variations that you can make once you have it perfected, and that's a good thing. Your don't have to start from scratch each time.

It appears that there's a zipper in the side seam. Until you have the fit issues corrected, I'd move the zipper into the center back. You'd change the pattern by adding a seam allowance at center back and cutting, instead of the fold. The reason is, you'll need the side seams to perfect your fit. It's a lot easier to adjust side seams if you don't have to remove a zipper.

Be sure to trace off the pattern instead of using the original tissue. Then you'll have something to return to and retrace if you mess up.

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #15 on: July 09, 2008, 07:02:31 PM »
Waaah, so confused...maybe im not bright enough to do FBA's..

How about this pattern as I already have it, and I made the red/white spotted version.

Offline MrsGalihad

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #16 on: July 09, 2008, 07:35:02 PM »
First I should say that the only FBA I have done so far is on a princess seam blouse.  But I'm the type to jump right in a try something because I learn by doing.  If it were me I would go ahead with the wrap top.  That means you have to first figure out how to add a bust dart then do the FBA and then adjust the wrap part of the top.  The first two should be in your fitting book and I found this for adjusting the wrap.

That's just what I would do in your position.  If you are worried you could always practice just the FBA part on that cute New Look pattern you just posted.

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #17 on: July 09, 2008, 08:12:28 PM »
Yes, that one would certainly work. And, you're already familiar with the pattern so that's a help. I agree with MrsGalihad that "learn by doing" is one of the best, if not the best way to learn. It will become more clear when you're actually working with the pattern.

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #18 on: July 09, 2008, 08:22:22 PM »
Right, Im all in a tiz now...I think I might just make a t-shirt instead... :)

No, I need to get this right. This FBA lark is all thats standing between me and great clothes, as Im getting pretty good at everything else.

So, I think I might start with the red/white blouse pattern I already have.

Offline blue mooney

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #19 on: July 09, 2008, 10:11:04 PM »
Hey, Robin, I ordered that shirtdress pattern. I really like the way the vertical darts lead to the pleats, so it's exciting to me!
That's one of those patterns where the fabric choice really makes the diff. What are you using?

Offline Robin

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #20 on: July 10, 2008, 02:30:05 AM »
Lindsay, go for it!  I think that is a great pattern to start with.

Robyn, I was thinking of using this bright plaid madras:


I am tall, so I am hoping I can carry it off.  If I chicken out, I have some pretty striped shirting that would work well.
I need to buy another pattern and try again in the next size up.  Practice, practice ...

Offline sewfaithfull

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #21 on: July 11, 2008, 01:44:18 PM »
I think you all might be right.

I have been looking through the pattern company sites, and have found this New Look 6808



This has bust and waist darts, would this be ok?

Lindsey,
There is a very detailed review from someone on http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/readreview.pl?readreview=1&reviewnum=29793 who made the New Look top and did a FBA. She was a beginner doing FBA as well, and it turned out beautiful. I'm sure she would answer your questions, or her review might explain enough. I think this would be a great pattern to start with learning a FBA!
« Last Edit: July 11, 2008, 01:46:06 PM by sewfaithfull »

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #22 on: July 11, 2008, 03:35:33 PM »
Thata great, thank you so much for sharing that with me.

Offline Debbie Cook

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #23 on: July 12, 2008, 04:02:37 PM »
Sorry I missed this until now. My name being in the title and everything.  ;D  But I haven't been on SG for a number of days.

Anyway, what *I* would do is the use the pattern you really want to use. I tend towards "Trial by Fire" with most things. But definitely trace it so you have the original to go back to if needed.

You will need to start by creating a side bust dart. Whether you want to rotate it later or not is your decision. I would probably leave it unrotated. No one but you will know a side bust dart is not part of the original design.

I would also not cut off the wrap portion, because that's just more work than necessary.

This link shows an FBA on a wrap top. The dart was ultimately rotated to shoulder gathers, but if you don't want to rotate your dart, just stop before you get to that point. If you do want to rotate your dart, instead of slashing down at the shoulder, you'll slash up at the hem through the existing waist dart.

HTH

« Last Edit: July 12, 2008, 05:50:36 PM by Debbie Cook »

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #24 on: July 12, 2008, 05:13:58 PM »
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it.

Im a little nervous about it all now, TBH. I have convinced myself I will make a mess of it, so Im too scared to try...I so need to get some balls..lol

I will try and have a go later with either the wrap top, or the NL pattern, with the short sleeves

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #25 on: July 12, 2008, 05:19:48 PM »
Lindsay, here's your mantra: "It's only fabric, it's only fabric, it's only fabric..."

Just let yourself have a learning experience, low expectations, OK? So maybe you don't do it right initially? No biggie, it's how you learn. Just give yourself permission to make the attempt.

Have a good weekend!

Offline vtmartha

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #26 on: July 12, 2008, 05:36:28 PM »
I have to laugh, Debbie!  I was beginning to wonder if you were ever going to show up - or just watching in amusement from the sidelines.  ;)

Offline Violet Peacock

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #27 on: July 12, 2008, 06:05:16 PM »
Lindsay, here's your mantra: "It's only fabric, it's only fabric, it's only fabric..."

Just let yourself have a learning experience, low expectations, OK? So maybe you don't do it right initially? No biggie, it's how you learn. Just give yourself permission to make the attempt.

Have a good weekend!

I guess a lot of people can't really understand my fears and worrys. Its not really about the fabric, but more to do with me. I hate failing..I hate not knowing how to do something..I usually beleive that Im not good enough to do anything complex and so if i dont try, i can't fail.

I have always been like this..my school reports all read that I was afraid to fail etc..just me, I guess.

Im sorry that this is so obvious in my posts. Im just as terrified of upsetting/scaring people off as I am at bodging up my FBA.. :)

Offline vtmartha

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #28 on: July 12, 2008, 06:18:28 PM »
Lindsay, I think a lot of us have similar fears - about our own projects, not yours  ;).  It's part of perfectionism.  There really is no such thing as a failure if your goal is to learn something from the project - unless, of course, you don't begin.  I think that is why some of us were suggesting that you simplify your project.  You start with baby steps until you are bored with them and then you take bigger steps.  If failure doesn't frighten you, you can take more risks and skip the baby steps.

Offline Debbie Cook

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #29 on: July 12, 2008, 07:17:57 PM »
I was beginning to wonder if you were ever going to show up - or just watching in amusement from the sidelines.  ;)

 ;D  I really should pay more attention to SG!

Offline Debbie Cook

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #30 on: July 12, 2008, 07:20:56 PM »
I hate not knowing how to do something

But none of us are born knowing how to do everything. We have to start somewhere. And mistakes aren't failures. They are how we learn.

Stop selling yourself short. You can do anything if you first START and then allow yourself to make mistakes to further your knowledge.

Offline Saashka

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #31 on: July 12, 2008, 07:43:13 PM »
I hate failing..I hate not knowing how to do something..
I have always been like this..my school reports all read that I was afraid to fail etc..just me, I guess.

 ;D OK, so do you remember when you were learning to walk and thought "hmm... what if I fall? Maybe I shouldn't even do this. What if walking isn't all it's cracked up to be anyway?"... or the time back in kindergarten or school when you had to learn your ABCs and you went "oh no, ABCs, I think I may not do well at that, better not try that"... or the time when you started math and you were thinking "oh, math, I think I'll fail at that, why even try". And then... remember when computers first came out and you took a look at one and said to yourself "wow, what a machine, I'll probably break it so maybe I shouldn't even touch it".

Anyway, my point is that you learn new things all the time whether you are aware of it or not. When you make something new into a major deal, you get scared because you could fail. So...
1) FBA and other fitting fixes are not a major deal, they are simply a part of sewing much like operating a sewing machine, and
2) it's just paper - how can you screw that up beyond repair? There's always Scotch tape or another pattern sale, and
3) the pattern doesn't fit to start with so it's not going to get worse, only better.

Offline sewfaithfull

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #32 on: July 12, 2008, 08:49:39 PM »
Lindsay,
May I just add that we all learn from our own and each others "mistakes". (No need to call them failures). That's what so great about a site like this where trials and errors can be shared. Go for it. No one here is going to judge you if something doesn't come out the way you intended-they'll help you learn from it, and show you how to do it better next time!
And BTW, I have a question, since I'm also learning how to do FBAs, what does it mean when you say to "rotate the dart". Anyone?
Sheila

Offline NancyDaQ

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #33 on: July 12, 2008, 10:46:30 PM »
And BTW, I have a question, since I'm also learning how to do FBAs, what does it mean when you say to "rotate the dart". Anyone?

When you make a FBA, you typlically place the dart horizontally in the side seam, right? Well, when you rotate the dart, you're moving it from that location to another one. Imagine a dart as wedge that's part of a circle (like a pizza), that's why it's called "rotating."

Offline sewfaithfull

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Re: Debbie Cook...paging Debbie Cook
« Reply #34 on: July 13, 2008, 02:27:32 AM »
So are you saying that the point of the dart would most likely stay where it is, but the rest of the dart may start in a different position? In what situations would you need or want to do this?

 

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