Sewing Discussion at Stitcher's Guild Sewing Forum
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| | |-+  Turning a skirt with waistband into a skirt with facing attached to full slip
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Author Topic: Turning a skirt with waistband into a skirt with facing attached to full slip  (Read 614 times)
Elle
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« on: June 15, 2008, 11:15:47 AM »

I am making a straight skirt out of linen/tencel and am not wanting to do the separate waistband that the pattern calls for.  It is not shaped, I would need to make changes to it to make it fit to the altered skirt parts, I prefer faced waistbands, and I want to try one or more of the new things that I have been reading about. 

Here is the pattern:

The pattern did not include a lining, which I want to add.  I've done that before so no problem there.  But, I think I'd like to do a faced waistband with lining hanging from the facing.  I've done that before, but I may also want to put elastic in the back to help with changing waist measurements and am not clear on where I would add the elastic.  The skirt has a side zipper, so I could just do one piece of elastic for the entire back facing.  Would I sew that to the facing, or the skirt?  It turns out puckery either way, when I visualize.

Alternative, I may want to make a full slip and then sew the skirt onto the slip at the waistband.  This would provide support for the skirt and allow me to attach dress shields to the bodice.  This will go with a jacket that stays on all day, so no worries about taking the jacket on and off. Claire Shaeffer shows a gorgeous example of this at p. 102 of her "Couture Sewing Techniques" book but without how-to instructions.  Does one make the one-piece slip (top and skirt) and then attach the skirt to the waist?  If I still wanted to add elastic, where would I add that, to the skirt piece or the lining piece?  Both at the same time?

As always, I appreciate the informed comments from sewists here at SG!

Regards,
Elle


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sdBev
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« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2008, 03:20:52 PM »

I..I may also want to put elastic in the back to help with changing waist measurements and am not clear on where I would add the elastic.  The skirt has a side zipper, so I could just do one piece of elastic for the entire back facing.  Would I sew that to the facing, or the skirt?  It turns out puckery either way, when I visualize.
..

Elle

I did something similar but with pants.  I stitched the elastic to the waistband on the inside part, not the side that would be seen by the public.  I was really surprised because this twill did not show any puckering on the public side, but looking at the inside was clearly gathering and hugged my body.  Can I suggest making a sample to see if your fabric would behave the same?  Do you have enough fabric for even a 6" sample?  I think it's worth the effort.  This is such a fabulous pattern.
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Elle
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« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2008, 05:52:35 PM »

Thanks, sdBev, I keep forgetting about samples.  That's the way to go.  Back to my basement sewing room. 

As to the pattern, I think the illustration is a bit misleading.  There is more of a kimono thing going on there in real life than the illustration suggests, which is a bit overwhelming for my 5'1" frame.  I want to learn is putting a gusset in under the arm, which would allow for the sleeve and sides to be closer to the body.  I have a couple of patterns that do that, so they're on the drawing boards, and then I'll apply what I've learned to my next version of this ensemble. 

I do love these old pattern illustrations.

~ Elle
« Last Edit: June 15, 2008, 05:56:14 PM by Elle » Logged

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