Designing Separates for maximum variety - Can you do the math?

[Robin]

One of the things I love about the Timmel SWAP contest is that each person sews a collection that focuses on her sewing interest.
Johanna Lu put it very well in one of her posts:

"...[I feel] very inspired by their skills. That said I will probably never get there with my sewing, nor is it my goal. I am more of concept person, picking out styles, mulling over fabrics, tweaking patterns, that's what I really enjoy... What I love about the swap is that you can focus on what ever you like"

I like fashion, I like to improve my skills, I like learning new things, but I LOVE to wear mix & match separates.
My next round of sewing must provide maximum variety and I want to sew fewer pieces at a time.

What do you think would be the most productive combination?  I like to layer things, too.
Several tanks /camisoles, several cardigans /over-blouses and a few bottoms would be great.
Add a jackete and bingo!

Any puzzle solvers among us?  What number of pieces provides the most possibilities?
Maybe we could sew along together!

A Gold Star awarded if existing stash is used!

[scottiesews]

You just set me thinking what I've worn this last week bearing in mind I wear a uniform for work & weekends are no different clothes wise than mid-week, currently all casual.  2 bottoms, 4 tops - all long sleeve T shirts, 1 lightweight jacket.  Outerwear has been a fleece/waterproof every day.  We've had bright sunshine & just now rain & hail!  Now I have washed & worn a couple of tops more than once.  The jacket went with one bottom but the days I wore the others I didn't need a jacket!  The tops go with both bottoms.  So for me at the moment this is enough.  BUT I like variety so another couple of tops & maybe another bottom & a  lightweight jacket / over blouse would fulfill that wish.  So make it 3 bottoms, 6 tops & 2 blouses/shirts.  I hate to admit the outerwear jacket goes with the bottoms but probably only two of the tops
However I will need to think hard about summer & again the autumn when I start teaching sewing 1 or 2 evenings a week.  I will certainly need to do something major about my wardrobe for that.  I believe I must always wear something that I have made when I teach & it would help if everything was co-ordinated to encourage the students to do the same! 

[Digs]

Good question, Robin.

Let's start with # of one piece items (D) (dresses, I don't think many of us wear rompers on the street):  and overshirts/vests/cardigans/capes/ponchos/jackets (J):  total # of combinations is D x (J+1), since you can wear a dress with or without a jacket.

For items that require two pieces minimum (skirt/slacks plus any kind of top T), it's S x T, assuming they're all equally mix'n match.  If being combined with an optional jacket, it's S x T x (J+1).

The last equation tells us that you'll have the greatest number of possible combinations by  having same number (N) of matchable S, T, and J, because then the total number goes up a little faster than the cube of N.  Three of each = 36 outfits! Four of each = 80 combos!  That's a whole season of 5-day work weeks, wow!

Now, if you consider the jacket (or its equivalent) as essential to your complete outfit, then the number of total combinations reduces to (D x J) + (S x T x J), or, expressed differently, J x (S x T + D).   If you want three layers inside an indispensable jacket, than it's A x B x C x J. 

And so on....

[Fox Valley Patti]

AAAK!!  Not Algebra!!!!

[Karrol]

Oy! Algebra!  
heehee!
Robin, I think on Julie's (Timmel Fabrics) website, there is an article from Austrailian Stitches on the original SWAP concept showing the possible # of combinations. It always boggles my mind (like Algebra   ) to see just how many combinations are possible. I love me some separates, too, in fact I have suits but rarely wear both pieces together - I treat them like separates. For me, I wear a jacket almost every day to work, so I do need more of them. But having 3-4 pair pf pants, a couple of skirts, 5-6 coordinating tops and say, 2 jackets gives me everything I need to get through weeks at the office without duplicating an outfit.

[BeeBee]

I'm just the opposite, Karrol.  I'm afraid to break up my suits.  Not sure why, I guess I'm afraid it doesn't really go together, that the colors are a little off or the fabric screams "mixed and matched" (like that's worse than "bought together, worn together with no imagination"?  ).  This leaves me, unlike you, duplicating A LOT!  I've lost some weight, so pulling out the items that don't fit  leaves me with even fewer choices. 
**Which reminds me to take a couple of items to the tailor this evening, maybe I won't be naked next week** 
**And put away the fun sewing and hem some blasted pants**

And Digs - you made my head hurt. 

[Susinok]

On breaking up a suit, it's best to go for a contrast rather than a coordinating look. Kakhi pants with a brown or olive green blazer and coordinating shirt. Grey or black blazer with black or grey pants (or pop with some red!).

If you are going to coordinate, then wear lots of the same color. Green pant, top, and blazer, in different shades of the same color. I do this a lot. I'm the queen of bargain shopping and coordinates. I find pants-less jackets and jacketless pants and put them together.

I also tend to shop in colorways. In otherwords, I have an entire set of earth toned fall colors. Rust, orange, peach, olive, scarlet, browns, warm tans, caramel, celery greens, that all go together.

Then there's my stuff that goes with black. Mostly red, turquoise, fuschia, lime, strong jeweltones.

And if the shades don't go that well together, just wear it with confidence and flair and no one will notice.

[Zalin]

For items that require two pieces minimum (skirt/slacks plus any kind of top T), it's S x T, assuming they're all equally mix'n match.  If being combined with an optional jacket, it's S x T x (J+1).

Well, I love this. But I don't understand the (J+1) in the last statement. Why the "+1".

Sorry to those whose heads hurt. 

[Digs]

Zalin, the +1 is there because the jacket is *optional*.  So having ONE jacket gives you TWO outfits (one with, one without), 2 jackets = 3 outfits, & so on.  If the jacket is a compulsory part of your wardrobe, you must drop the +1, and the the number of possible combinations becomes a simple product, S x T x J.   

[Robin]

Ah HA! That's what I wanted - an equation!

Thank you digs!

I am tired of messing around, you know?
Admittedly my wardrobe has improved a great deal since sewing the Timmel SWAP.

But I have a dream that one day I will stand in front of my closet and there will be MANY things to wear.
My closet will overflow with lovely outfits.

[Lisa]

I like fashion, I like to improve my skills, I like learning new things, but I LOVE to wear mix & match separates.
My next round of sewing must provide maximum variety and I want to sew fewer pieces at a time.

What do you think would be the most productive combination? 

Robin, I adore the equations Digs put together!  But to answer your question about your next round of sewing we also need to know if there are existing items in your wardrobe!    (I know I'm being a bit facetious here...but if you don't include the existing things you have that already go together, then you won't know what things will be most productive for you--and what they need to "go with." )

I'd start at your closet (and assuming everything in there fits and is in good repair) and start taking pictures of "outfits" you already have (just as you do for your swaps) and make notes about any thoughts you have as you go along about "if I only had..." 

This set of images is to create a wardrobe index of what you have, so that you can manage your wardrobe.  When something is being repaired/cleaned or is damaged beyond repair, you'll know which options are now "out."  I know of people who only take these images as they dress in the items, so you don't need to make a huge production out of it, but if you're trying to decide what will maximize your wardrobe, you'll need to be a bit methodical about it.  And I would put the items on you...not a dress form.

You're likely to find a few things:

1.  You probably have one or more sets of colors that tend to go together.  Over time, as we acquire more clothes, you'll find "surprise" combinations--which occur because all of them are things that look good on you...    If you have more than one set of coordinating colors, separate them that way.  You'll be applying Digs' equations separately to these "sets" of go-together color garments. 

2.  If you have things that bridge (work with) more than group, separate those out and make a note of which groups are bridged--you can include these items in each set in which they will work.  If you find yourself thinking "if I only had another 'wear-under top in beige or black' because it goes with so many things," that may ID something that should be at the top of your list to make your wardrobe more useable.

3.  Remembering that Digs' equations work only with items that are completely interchangeable, you will want to look through your color sets and further cull anything that doesn't work with everything.  You may be creating more color sets or bridge items between your new sub-sets in the same general color groups.

4.  Consider jewelry and accessories, particularly those that are particularly eyecatching as yet another way to expand your options.  The same dress with different jewelry/belt/scarf combinations may "read" (when you look at your images) as a "different outfit."  That's something you may want to consider as well.  And, BTW, finding those sorts of things can be particularly nice for when you're traveling!  (Digs, I'm not sure how those will work with your equations, since not all of the jewelry/accessories will go with everything...suggestions? )

Whether you choose to simply work with images...or if you want to index your garments by some sort of ID#, you're going to need to be able to list the things in your active wardrobe to take best advantage of the possibilities.  Just think about what system will work best for you!

Finally, consider taking a quick "digital picture snap" of yourself everyday after you dress (and again if you change clothes).  Just put them in a computer folder together and ignore them for a month or so.  Then review them and see what you're really wearing.  Many of us have discovered that we don't wear all of the things we have because we're either "in a rut" or because we've been making/buying clothes for the life we wish we had--not the one we have!   Yet another thing to ensure that you get the maximum variety from your additions to your wardrobe!

When you have lists or images of outfits, it becomes much easier to plan a week's wardrobe (for instance if your traveling--when it's a must) so that you can arrange for any needed cleaning/repair when you can "afford to have an item "out of rotation."

Just some thoughts about some of the things that I've done.  But you've inspired me to think them--and I haven't done them in a systematic way before.   Boy have I got a project ahead of me!

HTH--and thanks!

Lisa

[ElaineMC]

Digs –
I *love* your equation.  Math! Yeah!    (So much easier to match the sides of an equation than the colors of a print!)

But here is my dilemma: I do wear a jacket or sweater every day, and I’m thinking I need more of them than anything else, because I think they are more memorable.  For instance:
   Black pants, black t-neck, purple print jacket
   black pants, white blouse, turquoise jacket

The black pants can be repeated, because they aren’t very memorable.   I don’t think changing the black top for the white blouse makes any difference (ok, the clean one will smell better!) because I leave the jacket on all day.

So, I think I need to reduce the weighting of the pants & tops, and increase the weighting of the jackets – i.e. I need enough pants and tops to get through the laundry week, but enough jackets not to be boring.

-EMC

[Zalin]

Zalin, the +1 is there because the jacket is *optional*. 

AHA, I got it! Thank you so much. When you think how many combinations can be made of a few items, it boggles the mind.

[Robin]

Lisa, you are speaking my language.  As a child I catalogued my books using the Dewey Decimal system. 
Why not do the same to my wardrobe?
And you are right- by leveraging what I have now, I can fill gaps and get some quick wins.

Digs, I love this:

"you'll have the greatest number of possible combinations by  having same number (N) of matchable S, T, and J, because then the total number goes up a little faster than the cube of N.  Three of each = 36 outfits! Four of each = 80 combos!  That's a whole season of 5-day work weeks, wow!"

Karrol, you said pretty muich the same thing, but without the math!

[vtmartha]

Good point, Elaine!  I rarely wear jackets as my lifestyle doesn't 'expect' them but I would definitely weight what I wear on top greater than what I wear on the bottom.  I don't think this can be represented mathematically but if it can, I'm sure Digs can do it!  Great topic, Robin!

[kbenco]

I love this maths, Robin all my books are still sorted alphabetically by author, with non-fiction by topic. There is something very satisfying about a system. (My husband finds this very odd, but he has to live with me, so puts up with it)
 I have been looking at Lyn Cook's amazing co-ordinating wardrobe in Australian Stitches magazine for years, but I had never attempted a SWAP before Julie's contest, as Lyn lives in a much cooler part of Australia than me and her wardrobe relies heavily on the J+1 part of the equation - jackets. I hardly ever wear jackets as it is never cold enough here to wear one all day. I don't think our AC is turned up as high as it is in the United States. I always knew I had to work harder to get all those combinations! I agree that the top half is much more memorable than the bottom. I would love to have lots of perfect blouses to wear to work, and would be quite happy with several pairs of the same colour and style pants, just enough pairs to suit the laundry cycle!

[LauraTS]

Overblouses would be a good 'jacket-equivalent' for hot climates. I'm thinking of making some like KS 3603 out of lightweight cotton to wear this summer, over tank tops and such. That way you're covered when you're out of the house, but not hot. Then the tanks are like tops, and the blouses like jackets, as far as combos go.

I've been looking at my closet and realizing my garments tend to fall into two color groups - stuff that looks good with black: black, white, gray, clear green, purple, fuchsia); and stuff that looks good with a neutral (for me, mostly taupe, olive or denim): plum, olive, lighter pink, green/blue. I don't wear a piece from both groups together that often, besides jeans which I wear with almost every color (although I tend to put certain darknesses of denim with certain colors). Not sure if that means I need to pick one color scheme or the other and stick with it, or what.

[Digs]

You all make some very valid points:

1. accessories - yes, they do alter the look, especially when one's travelling and is limited to a black top/bottom... I was on a 2 week course in France a couple of years ago, and accessorized a very basic mostly-black travel wardrobe with a bunch of light as air but bright as blazes scarves. It got plenty of notice.... But I wouldn't count them the same way as I would major wardrobe pieces. You need to work HARD to change the look of an outfit with the small stuff: shoes, belt, scarf, jewellery, hat...., $$, $$$, $$$$.....

2. Look-alike bottoms or tops?  Say, you have 3 pairs of black slacks? Easy: just count them as 1!  Or if you spend all your "being seen" life behind a counter? then you can forget about the bottoms completely, just multiply the tops & jackets together.

3. Colourways?  naturally I wouldn't include a summer colourway with my winter one - not only do the colours not match, the garment weights don't either!  I'd rather not freeze in winter & swelter in summer, so separate seasonal wardrobes require separate consideration.   

4. I too like matched "suit"-type looks, especially in summer.  And let's face it, a basic black tanktop under a matched-up top plus bottom is going to equal the same single outfit no matter how many basic black tanks or tees I use.  That majorly reduces my look combos.  Anyway, in summer less is more - I tend to go for "any colour as long as it breathes" dress plus white jacket & neutral or black sandals. 

Soooo.... the combinatorial arithmetic is just an aid - real life isn't really an engineering exercise - but it can give you hints on the ways to maximize return on your effort. 

Robin, thanks to you, I KNOW I ought to follow my own numerical solution and create a summer wardrobe to carry me through to September.  Hah!!!!~ Now all I need is the time to sew it together.  Not a chance.... (grumble....)

[mcgintie]

Something I only recently figured out that gives me far more clothing to wear, is that here in the UK we don't actually need winter or summer outfits. What we mostly need is transitional clothes (long cold rainy springs and autumns!). That way, I can swap in a few light separates in the summer, or warm items for the winter. Before this revelation, I had a lot of summery clothing, and a lot of warm clothing, and nothing to wear for most of the year. At the moment I am wearing medium weight cotton trousers with my winter ankle boots - it's a cold sunny day here.

[RuthieK]

mcgintie, I echo the comments about the UK. Especially now I work an an air con office as well (the previous office was hot in the summer and cold in the winter). The temp in the office is pretty constant all year round and I need 3/4 sleeves and either trousers (pants) or tights (hose) with skirts to stop me getting cold. I also need a jacket to look smart in meetings etc and if the air con blows particualrly ferociously on my neck. I don't like to work at my desk in the jacket though as its too restricting. 3/4 sleeves keep you warm without getting in the way on the desk.

I reckon I could wear the same stuff for most of the year, adding thicker outerwear (wool coat,scarf and gloves) in the coldest weather and a light raincoat the rest of the time. I'm still wearing my wool coat!

I do like to wear a bit more colour/lighter colours in the summer though, and only bring out the linen things after Easter too.
The typical SWAP plan with only one jacket isn't enough for me, I'd be better off with 2 suits which each had trousers (pants) and a skirt and then several tops which went with either suit.
We get to dress down a bit on Friday's so I save my madder colours for then and wear with smart jeans.

[mcgintie]

RuthieK,
I was thinking earlier that unusually I am not wearing something I made - however, I dyed my silk padded jacket navy, and slashed the neck of my knit top, neatening the edges and sewing it to the sides with buttons. But it is something of a miracle that I am wearing RTW trousers which I only needed to move the waistband button on. We dress down on Fridays too - I took weeks to find something to replace my RTW jeans - the shops are full of clown clothes that suit no one at present. Good luck in the SWAP voting!

[hilda]

Robin this is a great topic!  I'd love to sew along with you (soon as I'm able).

Digs, thanks for the equation.  I am a math person as well.   Also your example of black pants or the black tank limiting different looks is a great point.  Gives us all something to consider.

I think the SWAP article on the additional phases will be a help too.  They are smaller capsules.  Also without a deadline we can explore more finishing techniques and embellishment to make the garments more special.  I have no idea how Laura_Lo found the time to customize each SWAP garment. 

Accessories - something I never think of.  Scarves look awesome on others.  I just feel out of place wearing one.  I definitely need help in the accessory department! 

[LauraTS]

Something I only recently figured out that gives me far more clothing to wear, is that here in the UK we don't actually need winter or summer outfits. What we mostly need is transitional clothes (long cold rainy springs and autumns!).

Sounds a lot like our weather (northern California), and a lot like the Pacific Northwest. We probably get more truly hot days in summer than you do, but they're still not as numerous as they are in most of the US (and the a/c problem means that most people have to compromise between being comfortable indoors or outdoors anyway). And the winter's not super-cold and snowy, it's rainy and windy. Having grown up in the Midwest, where there's 4 distinct seasons, even though I've lived here for nearly 10 years now I still have a hard time knowing what to wear sometimes. Take today - it's clear and sunny, but only 60 degrees (if that) and windy as all heck. You can't wear summer clothes or you'll freeze, but the sun and the time of year seem to demand something different than the stuff you've been wearing all winter.

Accessories - something I never think of.  Scarves look awesome on others.  I just feel out of place wearing one.  I definitely need help in the accessory department! 

Ditto here. I used to wear noticeable earrings all the time, but haven't done so much the last few years. Have a few scarves, but only the long skinny ones, and I forget to wear them most of the time. I think other people look lovely with accessories - interesting shoes, scarves, jewelry, whatever - but whenever I try it I feel too fussy. Some time-honored (timeworn?) advice I remember hearing when I was younger was that you should only have three accessory points of interest on at a time. If I'm wearing my glasses, a watch, and my wedding ring, I'm out!

[Robin]

Well, Laura, you just like a very streamlined style.  I looked at your SWAP pictures and your sense of style comes through loud and clear.  You are classic and tasteful without a lot of fuss.  I really like it!  Of course, it you want to pump up your accesories a bit, that would be fine, too.  But don't feel you must.  I like your style.

Just my 2 cents.

Hilda, I am glad you will come along for the ride.  Hopefully the news will be good when you go to the next doctors appt. 

Here is the fabric I am using and I think I am sewing the prints into tops and the navy blue into pants and the medium blue into a sheath dress.
Tentatively, anyway.
It was really lucky how well these pieces matched.  The navy blue and the blue /mauve print are from EmmaOneSock.
The other two are shirtings from Michaels.

[Vicki]

I am more of an outfit person than a separates person.  However in the past couple of weeks I have been mixing it up a bit.  And I keep thinking I should take photos - but you know how it is in the morning - rush, rush.  I really like Lisa's idea of taking the photos.

I also have to admit to having a lot of clothes so I don't focus on mix and match so much as a new outfit.  And really most of my colours mix with each other.  Here in Melbourne the weather is reasonably mild and I don't need completely separate season's wardrobes.  So 80% of my clothes work for all year round.  Summer frocks get put away and winter coats/scarfs get the same treatment when out of season.

[hilda]

Robin,

I love the fabrics!  The blue/mauve is really pretty.  I am much more a print person than solid.  I have two different mauve/pinkish fabrics in my stash from Timmel.  I wonder if they would match your current fabrics.  If you're interested in a swatch to see I'd be happy to send to you.

[karent]

Robin, I really like your fabrics.  Otherwise, as far as this thread goes, is it just me?  I am lost.  I made As in algebra, trigonometry, physics, even calculus, so I don't think I'm a math dunce.  I don't get any of this!  Now give me a patient weight, creatinine clearance (we won't go there, it's kidney related) and I can come up with the dose for almost any drug.  This J+1 plus accessory plus optional stuff has my head spinning! ACK!  I have a rather dull day-to-day wardrobe for the office, but it is workable.  Pants/skirts in black, brown, olive and khaki, with shirts in greens, pinks, whites, creams and grey.  Mostly cardigans.  In the morning, I can grab whatever pants/skirt is clean, a shirt that blends, and a cardigan (my verison of jacket.)  Done.  Dull but done.  I'm looking for a bit of interesting detail mostly, and a way to jazz up my daytime routine for when I go out at night (especially straight from the office) and for running around on the weekend.  I think I have reasonable variety for the mundane daily stuff, but I want a way to make that mundane a little more interesting.  If I have to go home and change into a formal doo-dad, I'm ok there too, it's the in-between that I have a problem with.  K

[Fox Valley Patti]

That's always my problem too!  Too much of one type of clothes or the other.  And I've no patience to make the clothes I could really use!

I need nice "casual" stuff - what I can wear to school meetings, church, a neighbor's party.  And I have NO creativity surrounding that at all!

What I tend to sew are clothes that are too Career-styled for my workplace, which is pretty casual, mostly men and not an aspirational kind of place.

And, I need something to wear for funerals, job interviews (which have been as depressing as funerals lately), and weddings.

I guess what I really need to do is one of those worksheets where you figure out what percentage of your week/month/year is spent going to funerals, job interviews and weddings.  How often you go to church, picnics, neighborhood parties, school meetings, work.  And how often you're out doing the yardwork.  More math!!!

And, I think I need to divide my closet that way, too - and keep the yardwork clothes separate from the casual Friday clothes.

So where is one of those worksheets?

[BeeBee]

What I need are clothes for nice/casual dinners out.  I have work clothes (some, but my skills aren't up to tailored jackets), play clothes (I'm going overboard with making this stuff, it's fun and easy) and formalwear.  But I never seem to have anything to wear out to dinner.  We live in an historic area with lots of restaurants and they kind of require some level of "niceness", but not really dressy.  Jeans and tennies scream tourist (and we are overrun at this time of year), but the issue is compounded by the need to wear comfortable shoes, as we do a lot of walking on bricks and cobblestones.  Oh, and the over air conditioning that is already in full force.  Upside is that a lot of these places are old and the AC can't keep up when it gets really hot. 

Yep, this math scares me, too.  I'm a CPA and an MBA.  Done gragiated with honers, but I jest cain't do this here fancy mathamatocs.   

[Susinok]

Beebee how about some layered twinsets? Make the undershirt with short or 3/4 sleeves instead of a tank top. At work I often will wear flats instead of heels, so I have a bevvy of professional pants hemmed to be worn with driving mocs or ballerina flats.

Another look is to make some overshirts worn as jackets worn over a tank or 3/4 sleeve nicer knit shirt.

I love blazers and jackets but have not taken the plunge to sew one, either. I buy them at the end of season sales (like about right now) and wear them to death.

[BeeBee]

I hate jackets, but they are almost required in our office.  I much prefer sweaters, but they're a little too casual (DC area, still business formal).  Shirts as jackets definately a no-no (and truthfully, just not me, though I see them on others and like them).
For dinners, I often do wear twin sets or blouses/tops and  carry a sweater, I just feel so "frumpy".  .  I have some cute flats and very low heels that I troll around in on weekends, but even they get sore after about a mile and I have to be careful of the brick pavers.  (It ain't easy keeping up with guys in tennies).

[blue mooney]

Count me as one with fingers in the ears singing "la la la" while you're doing the math, but I look forward to seeing what all you mathmeticians sew!

BeeBee, those big "grandpa" sweaters were "in" last fall. Maybe one in a light color for a spring-time warmup? Maybe a long knit duster?

I have to live in layers. I live where it gets really hot in summer, but A/C makes me even more uncomfortable. For me, jacket + shell or cami or a twinset is the way to go.

[terry]

To Fox Valley Patti

"where is one of those worksheets" ??

Right here.....http://img2.timeinc.net/instyle/static/PDFs/wardrobe_worksheet.pdf

I don't remember who posted originally but...I needed this too. 

terry

[Robin]

LOL, y'all are cracking me up.

The math is annoying, isn't it?

What if I make it a word problem:

Happy Hannah is going to a 5 day conference where she will be required to wear business casual during the day.
The A/C will be turned low but it will be hot outside.  She'll walk to a nice restaurant for dinner at least once and she wants to dress up a bit.
What should Mary pack?  She wants to pack light.

Now take that answer and multiply by 4 to arrive at what SHOULD be in my closet.

I wear business casual to my job, but I need to notch it up when I am meeting with executive types.  So, for me, that means a nice jacket with separates.  We don't wear matched suits any more.  I'm a CPA working in IT in Baltimore. 

[BeeBee]

AKKKK!  Word problems!!

And if the Baltimore CPA started sewing at 9 am and made 2 garments a week for 4 weeks but could only wear each item with one other item and lost too much weight on a business trip to Mexico to wear one of the pairs of pants and realized the blue shirt looked funky under fluorescent lighting, what time would she get to San Francisco and how many sewing machines would she buy on the way?