Author Topic: Pattern Drafting for a Busty Bodice  (Read 6881 times)

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Arlac

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Pattern Drafting for a Busty Bodice
« on: February 15, 2008, 02:37:03 PM »
Hello All.  I pray someone will be able to help me.  I'm drafting a bodice for myself and I'm rather top heavy (34G).  I've tried two different books to draft the pattern and in each case something is completely screwed up.  I've tried the following two draft book instructions, Dorothy Moore and Patternless Fashions.  I'm pretty good at following steps so I'm fine up until its time to draft the bust dart.  In patternless fashions, i had everything set.  Once the breast dart came into play, it was horrible.  My front line was 24 1/2 inches and my back line was 20 inch, 21 inch if I just want extra lenght.  According to PF, the bust dart is the difference.  Now a bust dart of 4.5 inches is excessive, but I guess it makes sense in relation to my body shape, what goes out, must come back in.  However, when I try to close the dart to re-draw the line connecting from waist to armhole, when I open it up, what I've traced looks like a sharp spear head shooting out of the side of my bodice.  What the heck is that?  I must be doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what it is.  It looks sort of like the attached.  If you have any help for me, please do not hesitate. 

[attachment deleted by admin]

Offline Liana

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Re: Pattern Drafting for a Busty Bodice
« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2008, 09:19:19 PM »
That is weird.   :) 

You say this is what you get after you close the dart and trace the sideseam with the dart closed?  What is out there that you are tracing around?  You should be getting a nice sideseam line.  Have you shifted the entire dart to the waist dart?  If so, just ignore that thingy.  I would like to know what it looked like with the dart open though, and what in the world is "way over there" that you're tracing around.

When you are large busted, you'll often get a better fit with a combination of two or more darts rather than trying to do it all in one spot.  A princess seam is like 2 darts, one from the shoulder and one from the waist.  You can also have a waist dart as you do, and a horizontal dart, or whatever.  I am assuming your drawing is just a drawing, not a tracing of what you actually have, as your dart doesn't look nearly large enough for what you describe. 

HTH a little anyway.

Offline Saashka

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Re: Pattern Drafting for a Busty Bodice
« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2008, 09:30:46 PM »
Here's what you could do, assuming you're drafting on something pliable (or you could copy your pattern onto something like the blue-gridded nonwoven): pin the front and back together at the shoulder, then put one pin at the top of the side seam and two at the bottom, leaving a gap in the middle - you should have extra length in the front piece. Now put it on like you're going to wear it. Get it nicely up under your arm and at the neck. Mark your bust point on the tissue/nonwoven material and fold out the extra length at the side seam. Pin this the best you can - it doesn't have to be perfect, you're just looking to get an idea where this dart is going to point and how deep it will be. Take it off and clean it up, blending and truing as needed.

Offline LindaF

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Re: Pattern Drafting for a Busty Bodice
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2008, 03:44:23 AM »
Arlac,
I will be able to reply better to this tomorrow morning after my coffee and a good night's sleep, but................

if I understand correctly you are saying that you get this gigantic dart with what looks like a large piece of triangle coming out of the dart.

I am not too far from you, I have a 3.5" difference side seam between front and back, so I can relate.  If I were to wear the right size bra it would be larger, but  I am reluctant to perk up the sisters that much.  My DD calls them beacons if you get my drift. ;D At least with the 3.5" diff I can hide them a little. I should be wearing a38G, but have stuck with the 40DD in this stage of the weight loss hoping that it I will lose more where I need to before I go down another dress size. ;)

Yes, you will get the gigantic spear.  It will diminish somewhat if you go for two darts - or a princess dart as Liana has suggested.  But I have found that it doesn't matter where you put the dart in a princess seam.  Separate it into the waist and bust or all to the bust area, it still is the same shaped side pattern piece, which is were all the dart intake is placed, in my personal experience thus far. If you do go  for one dart, prepare for the spear.  One way to get around it is to have a5/8" seam allowance inside the dart, which I have done in the past.  This is instead of a solid fabric dart.  And that is okay too, actually better than trying for a "normal" dart and having the spear.  By creating a 5/8" sa, you eliminate that spear that sticks out.

BTW, I loooove princess darts for this very reason.
HTH, but if you need more answers let me know.  I will check again tomorrow sometime.
Linda

ETA to add that on my last knit top I went with two darts instead of one and I liked the fit better than one dart.  Try it on a test garment and see if you like it.  It really is not as obvious as one would think. If you look here on my blog, you will see the top with two darts. Actually I think that you can't see the darts, which I like.  But your tastes may vary
« Last Edit: February 16, 2008, 03:50:56 AM by LindaF »
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Arlac

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Re: Pattern Drafting for a Busty Bodice
« Reply #4 on: February 21, 2008, 10:23:23 PM »
I just wanted to first write thank you for everyone that responded! I'm going to go home and try the pattern draft from scratch.  I suppose if I just draft the dart pattern and it closes perfectly, I should be able to sew up the front and back and drape the dart in so to speak for the bust.  I draft on Kraft paper, but I also have sweedish tracing paper and that can be sewn. 

Liana - Actually, I'm drafting it from scratch so it gives you instructions on how to draft the bust dart.  However, once its drafted, I close the lines to meet one another and then I use the hip curve to connect the line from the armhole to the waist through the closed dart and when I open it....wallah - crap!  HA HA!  No truly, its frustrating.  I hear all of the time how people in Japan can look at a design, take your measurements and recreate it to fit perfectly.  I know they didn't learn that over night, but this is crazy! 

LindaF - I'm glad someoen understood.  I keep thinking I'm doing something incorrectly, butI just can't figure it out.  I took a look at your blog...that top fits amazingly!  I actually already had a one inch waist dart drafted into the pattern. 

I did download Garment Designer's trial copy.  You insert your measurements and then it kicks out the bodice pattern according to your specifications.  I wanted to see what they thought it should like like as a finished detail.  I did notice that the bust dart stuck out a little, but it was not as drastic.  I love that they did it for me, however, I'm one of those people who like to know how to do it for myself...just in case....


Offline Kathleen C.

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Re: Pattern Drafting for a Busty Bodice
« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2008, 12:23:55 AM »
I just had a thought... the more angled your dart is (compared to the side seam) the more of a "spear" you will get. Maybe it's the dart angle?
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