Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[Terri K]

Alice -  I know you're excited about the fabric but you need to use your spell check!   Was upstairs organizing & preparing to cut out a Pure & Simple coat in size small.    I had already made it in size medium before the Expo, but that is definitely not my size and I wasn't going to post a photo of me wearing something in the wrong size that is not flattering and did not justice to the design.     So since the sample P&S coat in the three shades of textured rayon was a size small,  I tried it on and found my perfect size.    I really liked that Sandy had her TNT BPD pattern pieces that she uses over & over ironed onto Pellon interfacing so I tested using a part of the pattern piece I didn't need ironing it onto some pellon that I never use for sewing interfacing anymore except that Fabric Mart had stuck a huge piece of this stuff inside one of my orders a few years ago.     Good thing I tested because the paper bubbled up and distorted.    I would like to fuse the actual pattern like Sandy did instead of tracing since I plan on making more than one and don't need the other sizes.    Any suggestions?

[Terri K]

Here is a Moschino cotton coat ($1,495) from the spring 09 collection (not Cheap & Chic label, but the high end) that has the same shape as the P&S coat.   It caught my eye because the fabric is an abstract like the painted Japanese cottons I saw at the Expo.    Looking closely, it has a double collar like the SW Now Shirt and the tie is cut with the bodice.   You could make the lower section taping/cutting the two lower sections of the P&S pattern together, and add side pockets.   Louise, you may want to examine this one when you go to Saks to see how they did the front tie since it looks like it is pulled through an opening in the bodice seam.     I sure respect your fashion forward pattern sense 

[LyndaC]

Terri, I found a method in one of the current sewing magazines that I haven't tried, but it sounds great.  Perhaps you will be the guinea pig for us all!

Layer your pressed paper pattern with vinyl (thickness of dry cleaners' bags) over it.  Put tissue paper over the vinyl and under the pattern.  Press with a dry iron lightly.  The article said the vinyl would adhere to the paper easily.   The tissue is just to keep it from sticking to the iron.

I know the ladies in my church placed paper patterns under builders' grade heavy plastic and traced endless pattern pieces off permanently here in Haiti.

Let us know!

[NancyDaQ]

I've heard of the method with cleaner bags, but I'd worry about toxic plastic fumes.

I've used Pellon in the past to preserve patterns and haven't ever had it bubble up and distort like Terri described. I used a dry iron and low/mid heat, just enough to melt the glue.

[Terri K]

Just cut out an Of The Moment jacket out of this fabric for my aunt in Memphis this afternoon.  When I visited in Dec, we agreed that OTM was the perfect style but  I'm waiting for her to tell me which side of the fabric to use as the right side.   This is a very textured fabric, probably upholstery, that she bought some years ago.   I prefer the brown/tan (on right)  because it doesn't have as many threads that will pull if you rub it against something.



I agree Nan,  I need to go find some Pellon Craft and Fuse or Craft and Bond, which is what I think Louise said they use.   I'm sure the bubbling was because that 911 stuff is much lighter.   

[lessalt]

Terri, I also vote for the one on the right.

[NancyDaQ]

I like the tan version better.

[Terri K]

I got an e-mail from Aunt Nell after she got off work.   She said the tan side is the "fashion fabric" side.  It's an African type bark cloth and the design runs along the crossgrain.    I cut a size medium with two right (smaller fronts) and added six inches to the length since she is taller than I.     I finished it except for the edgestitching and just quit.   This is fairly stiff fabric and it looks best closed.    I was playing around with which closure to use.    I may do one large button or an interesting clasp.    Will post photos tomorrow.

[Terri K]

The Of the Moment is finished.   This is the fourth or fifth of these jackets I've made.     That is one of the fabulous designer buttons I got in the grab bags of assorted $$$ buttons Louise had at the Expo for $5 a bag on it and used a piece of elegant, double face ribbon I found at Waechter's this afternoon as a loop to secure it if desired.    She can wear it either open or closed.   It's a very sophisticated look and will go great with a lot - especially black or tan slacks.    I didn't turn under the 3/8" at the mitered edges, using a heavy black serged edge instead since the fabric is very stiff and doesn't like to turn easily.   I think it turned out very nice.



More photos on my OTM Flickr Set

[vtmartha]

Wow, Terri!  I'm impressed.  It's gorgeous and just yesterday you were asking which side of the fabric to use.

[Terri K]

Thanks Martha.   These are so fast to sew up.   I use the template pressing method recommended by both these and the Sewing Workshop patterns plus I didn't press under the 3/8" on this one so it went even faster.   My aunt told me that she got the fabric out in Tucson at Leandro's, in her words, " a positively inspirational place", even though it was home dec fabrics.   Sadly, I understand they are now closed. 

[vtmartha]

How much ease did you incorporate, Terri?  I have heard of Leandro's, also that they are closed.  I have a great home dec fabric shop here I need to explore in more depth.

[Stephie]

Beautiful jacket Terri.

[Terri K]

Thank you Stephie.   

Martha -  I make a size small for myself, which is 50 1/4 inches closed.   This one is size medium which is 54 1/4 inches closed.   The bust size for a medium is between 36-39", but obviously if you wanted less ease you can make a smaller size.   The jacket style is meant to have about 15" ease.   A similar shape is the Shapes High Five Jacket, but it has waaaay more ease.   You may recall that I pleated out about 20-21" of that pattern in the smallest size, ending up with about 50" closed, in this one made from cotton eyelet.    I also widened the High Five sleeve - using the  XL pattern size and adding  2" more so it's about the same width as the OTM sleeve.

To compare, here they are:

Shapes High Five Jacket     and my OTM jacket in cashmere that I wear a lot
 SW Plaza pant and TS Monaco Tee               SW Mimosa pant in stretch wool

[PatTM]

Terri
Your aunt's jacket is about the most stunning garment I have seen on this site!!!   Very "Couture-ish" Style!!  I'm sure your aunt will enjoy for many seasons.
Leandro's would sometimes send a rep with fabric to the sewing expo we have in Denver and I have come away a few times with some lovely designer fabric at a great price because they did not want to ship it back to AZ.   Sorry to hear they have closed. 

BTW I like your idea of the heavy serger thread-  solves your problem nicely, but I wonder if it could be also used on almost any fabric as an accent.

Hope everyone is having as nice a day at their house as we are having in Colorado this morning!   I know the dogwoods, etc will soon be blooming  (a few weeks) in the South and it sure makes me homesick.

[sdBev]

..
BTW I like your idea of the heavy serger thread-  solves your problem nicely, but I wonder if it could be also used on almost any fabric as an accent.

..

I'm not Terri, but the answer to that is yes.  I've experimented and used a variety of threads and thin yarns (being a knitter I have a stash of those too).  I often use the heavier threads to roll the hem on my fabric napkins.  And one of my cheapskate moments, when I cut towels down (fraying or holes they get repurposed into face cloths and hand towels) I serge with heavier threads in the upper and lower loopers.  If you use the heavier threads over a strip of fabric, I prefer a bias strip, you can use the result as piping and that can look classy too!


Terri

If your Aunt has any hesitation, I'd be glad to take this off your hands.  It is remarkably beautiful and the colors will work well with a whole lot more than tan and black.

[PatTM]

Thanks, these are all great suggestions!   I checked out your blog too-  Your work is beautiful.

[SewGraceful]

Hope everyone is having as nice a day at their house as we are having in Colorado this morning!   I know the dogwoods, etc will soon be blooming  (a few weeks) in the South and it sure makes me homesick.

My dogwood is already blooming and pollen is everywhere.

[Velma42 (Barbara)]

Terri, I appreciate so much your posting pics of your projects - gives me ideas.  Why don't we all do that?  I need to start doing so myself.  Yesterday I cut out the Three Fold Vest from some black stretch linen I purchased last year at Textile Fabrics in Nashville.  I'm thinking of doing something different with the "V" piece in the back - maybe a piece of upholstery fabric, or embellish it in some way with floss or antique buttons or any other ideas someone might suggest.       I just finished a "fru fru" flower girl dress and my granddaughter's "heirloom" Easter dress.  So I'm ready for something not quite as tedious and time-consuming.  I hate to wish the time away, but I can hardly wait for the Louise Cutting/Linda Lee workshop in November at Waechter's!!!

Love to all,
Barbara B.

[Terri K]

Barbara - thanks for posting.    That's a great idea.   My first Shapes three fold vest was almost a throwaway since my fabric raveled so badly on that back piece.  It didn't ravel so much on the other two since they are cut on grain.   If I rip that out and cut another from a different fabric, that will solve my problem and add interest as well.    Thanks again for the great design idea.   When you finish it, please post a photo on the Shapes topic as well.

[willowsmum]

I absolutely love your fabric and the relaxed style of your jackets ......this style of jacket really appeals to me.......beautiful 
Sandra

[sdBev]

Terri, I appreciate so much your posting pics of your projects - gives me ideas.  Why don't we all do that?  I..
Love to all,
Barbara B.

As for me, I find that posting pictures takes me at least an hour.  No I don't just shoot and upload.  My pics are always too large and have to be cropped.  That's when I get a decent pic.  So often I have to take 3 or 4.  I do have the tripod set up now and maybe that will help.  But the lighting I have to deal with is poor and affects the the picture quality.  I do post pictures, but I really have to want to share. 

[Velma42 (Barbara)]

Terri, I appreciate so much your posting pics of your projects - gives me ideas.  Why don't we all do that?  I..
Love to all,
Barbara B.

As for me, I find that posting pictures takes me at least an hour.  No I don't just shoot and upload.  My pics are always too large and have to be cropped.  That's when I get a decent pic.  So often I have to take 3 or 4.  I do have the tripod set up now and maybe that will help.  But the lighting I have to deal with is poor and affects the the picture quality.  I do post pictures, but I really have to want to share. 

Yes, I understand it's an ordeal for some.  I haven't tried it yet and it may be for me too!

[vtmartha]

Terri, you've inspired me!  I've traced off my Of the Moment pattern in a medium.  You mentioned that you sewed your aunt's jacket with two of the smaller fronts.  Could you share what led you to that decision? 

[Terri K]

Hi Martha.    I cut two of the narrowest front piece, the left side.   The right side is wider because it's meant to kind of drape as it's closed.   I did this for two reasons, 1) this fabric had no drape so it wouldn't have behaved properly, and 2) I didn't have enough fabric to cut the wider piece anyway      So when you do this, just cut two of the left side facings and stitch them together at the back seam.   Everything else is same as the directions.    Since you are tall, you will probably be happier if you lengthen it as well if you have enough fabric.   

[vtmartha]

Thanks, Terri!  Good that you mentioned the facings.  I might have forgotten.  The reverse side of the fabric isn't impossible but I'd rather not feature it so two left sides makes a lot of sense.  My fabric is quite bright (apparently brighter than I at this point  ) - I'm trying to decide if the jacket should be longer or shorter.  I have plenty of fabric.

[Terri K]

Since you don't want the wrong side to show Martha, if your fabric is not bulky and has some drape, you might just cut four of the left fronts and self line to the side seams, topstitch along the neckline and edges.    I've got a couple of linen jackets that are self faced on the front like that with a side pocket in between.   

[vtmartha]

I considered that, Terri.  Great minds and all that ...  I may sew up a sample to see what happens.  The fabric is sort of a mattelaise and may be too heavy for that approach.  Ideally, I'd line with a coordinating fabric, which I have yet to find. 

[Terri K]

Play around with it and see how it behaves for that 3/8" turn under.  BTW Valentino is on Oprah today .   I rarely watch but may scoot in there to check it out.

Update - Valentino was on to promote a two year documentary directed by Vanity Fair's Special Correspondent Matt Tyrnauer, titled Valentino, the Last Emperor official site and trailer .   If you didn't see the Oprah show, you didn't miss anything you won't see in the trailer.    It's a limited distribution type film and you can see where it's playing at the link.

[Velma42 (Barbara)]

I went to the only fabric store near my office during lunch, JoAnn's, and found an upholstery remnant that I think will look cool inserted in my 3 Fold Vest.  It's a black on black velvet tapestry.  We shall see!

[Linda 75142]

My first of this pattern.  It went together so well.  I made a muslin of the size M+ and it was almost perfect--so much that I didn't feel the need to change a thing.  This is a loose weave, VERY soft fabric that I think is mostly cotton.

Think this will be a great basic for our hot Texas summer that will be here all too soon!

[Velma42 (Barbara)]

Thanks for posting your picture Linda.  Louise introduced this pattern to us at the Martha Pullen School last summer and I knew it would be a hit - just the right thing to wear under a jacket or by itself.  I'm still working on my 3 Fold Vest - got sidetracked with some machine embroidery (for pay  ).  Hope to finish it up shortly.

[sdBev]

Very Nice Linda.  I've made 3 so far.  It is an excellently drafted pattern that looks good on.

[marciae]

Great top Linda.  I've made two - the first was the muslin - I had to raise the dart so made another.  Haven't had a chance to wear it yet to see if I need any other changes or not!!

[drichards]

Is that the ABO top?



Edited by Liana to say, Please continue at Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements III