Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[LyndaC]

Terri, thanks for giving us a preview!  It looks like the hem is the same technique used on the baseball top that is so popular.  Unbelievably easy.  I have a washed piece of leaf green linen waiting for this pattern.  How much yardage did it take?

[Terri K]

Lynda, I was thinking of you as I finished this and now I know it's because you love those tops.   I was hoping to see you in Atlanta.   The shell only takes a yard plus some.    If you have a yard and some remnants to get the arm and neck facings, you're good.    If you don't have the pattern yet, the P&S measurements and yardages are on the website and I linked them here as well.

[LyndaC]

Terri, this will be my first year to miss the Atlanta Expo.  I have asked Alice to shop for me.  Missing the Expo was the ONLY negative about going to Haiti.  I LOVE the dinners, learning from Louise, and I usually visit her booth several times.  Whichever fabrics I originally dismissed as too expensive the first day, I usually purchse by the last day.  The three-layer silk shell is still one of my favorite summer tops. 

Louise, I KNOW you will see a difference in your sales without my mad money there!  Most of you know my husband lost his job, so perhaps it is a good thing that I won't be tempted.   However, we all know sewing is economical, don't we?

Alice, if you see a great linen or rayon in Louise's booth, please get a yard for me to make the new shell.

Y'all please remember to say a prayer for me that I will be used to glorify God in that sad country.

[Sergerqueen]

Lynda C-
Are you the one working with the Haitian women and teaching them to sew?  I would like to send you some things if you would post or pm  your address.   What types of sewing things are most useful to you and your group?  I am at personalthreads@comcast.net
God Bless!

[Terri K]

Here's the finished shell.    The cotton is a remnant from Hancocks that I thought was interesting, but it turned out to be mis-dyed.    

Lynda,  I will miss visiting with you.   The title of my blog entry today is "Be the change you wish to see in the world" - from a quote from Ghandi.    Your work made me think of Matt. 5:14-16: "Ye are the light of the world. A city that is set on a hill cannot be hid. Neither do men light a candle, and put it under a bushel, but on a candlestick; and it giveth light unto all that are in the house. Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven."

[LyndaC]

How beautiful your "remnant" is.   

And thanks for the kind words, but I can take no credit or praise for this.  The verse God has continually used for me regarding Haiti is "The eyes of the Lord RUN to and fro throughout the whole earth to show Himself STRONG in behalf of them whose heart is perfect toward Him."    And He has continually shown Himself strong by providing everything we need for this sewing school.  I will be using many of the techniques developed by Louise and other independent designers.   God has prepared me for this all my life, and I am thrilled.

[marciae]

What a great top.  I can see a lot of them in my future!!  Thanks Terri.  I'm anxious to see about the coat also.   I love jackets and am hoping this coat/jacket pattern will become a TNT.

[sdBev]

Great top!

I got my pattern in on Friday.  I read through the instructions and am shopping my stash now, I'm leaning toward a aqua linen.  It's still winter in SD, but I'm thinking of spring because DH and I planning and trying to budget for several trips we want to make this year starting in April. 

I can say I'm already pleased with the pattern on several points (and I haven't even cut it yet).  First I opened the envelope and there are 3 sheets, 6 pages of instructions.  I already know that the slight extended cap is a good line for me. I missed seeing that it has a curved hem, also a good line for me.  It was the bust dart that had me sold immediately.  I've found that a bust dart really makes my tops and dresses look better on me.  The fit is very shapely, and slimming.  I could never really understand why so many patterns were published without the bust dart or some kind of shaping in the side seams.  Even a "A" cup benefits from a little shaping.  But I digress... this pattern looks like a winner to me.

I'm thinking I'd like to use it for knits too.  Any idea of the changes needed?  Oh well, I'll make up my mind after sewing this first one.  I nearly always sew the first garment exactly has pattern is given making changes only for big obvious differences like the length of pants.  But Louise has included a nice tutorial for placing the bust dart that I'm going to work though today just by measuring the tissues and myself. 

Well off to the sewing room...

[NancyDaQ]

I got my copy of this pattern on Friday. This is my very first pattern of Louise's! The shell is so cute and I can already tell that it will be a classic for my wardrobe. I have a lot of short fabric lengths that would be perfect to use. Wouldn't it also be a great little casual dress if lengthened?

I also noticed that the coat is very similar to a style that Talbot's is showcasing this spring. Like you Terri, I think I'll be making mine without the bottom section; the shorter length will work better for me.

[marciae]

I picked up my mail this am and also had my pattern.  I haven't even opened it yet!!   I'll 'read' it tonight while watching TV.  I'm thinking I'd like the jacket just a 'tad' longer then the first color.  I'll have to look at the pattern and do some measuring.  I'd prefer more of a jacket.  Will be anxious to see the coat made up - at whatever length.  Things are always easier to visualize if it's on a 'real' person!!

[sdBev]

I read through the dart instructions, did some measuring and think the Md+ will fit me perfectly.  I traced the pattern (I trace all my patterns and keep the original intact) Looking at the traced pattern I think, this is going to be just a skosh tight.  So I rechecked all the measurements and still think that's the right size for me.  Tissue fitting the pattern looks good; the bust dart looks right on, the sleeve feels a little small and the shoulder a little too wide; but the measurements all work. I keep looking and thinking it's just a skosh small.   I selected a turquoise and white striped cotton, but it's not wide enough for the MD+.  So I thought again and selected a cotton border print inherited from my mother's stash.  I'm sure she purchased this strictly based on cost.  I inherited all her sewing supplies, and although she passed-on in 1999, I still try to hold on to her, including keeping fabric that neither of us truly love/loved.  I'm sure she'd approve of using this fabric as a wearable muslin, especially since I have a turquoise crinkle that would make great crinkle pants to go with... Also, there is enough fabric that if the MD+ really is just a skosh off,  I can cut a size Large.  I decided I didn't want to cut the facings from the same fabric.  I think the print might shadow through, so I've decided to cut the facings in a plain white cotton.  Well, after much trepidation, I'm ready to sew this up tomorrow!

[marciae]

I'm leaving shortly for the day.  Am hoping for a 'review' from you Bev, when I get home tonight!!   I read thru my pattern a bit last night - will have lots of time today, while I'm "waiting" to read the pattern.  It will be next week before I can get to the top.  I normally don't trace but decided I would this one.  The coat really intriques me too.

[Terri K]

I've had some flu bug all weekend - one of those where you can feel the molecules of air hitting your skin and I still have a fever.  So instead of sewing, I spent time on the couch watching   Louise's 2 DVDs where she demonstrates industry techniques .    I had not spent the time to watch all the  segments so it felt luxurious to watch all of them them without interruption.   They go over and above the information in the patterns. Now I'm ready to hit the sewing room when I get to feeling better.    I hope I don't have what Alice had for a month - better get over it before the Atlanta Expo.   I could look at the bright side - I had a comprehensive one on one training session that cost less than one night in a hotel, and I can go back and see it again   I did make progress on my P&S jacket by finishing the fronts,  pockets and the collar of the P&S jacket before I quit sewing/pressing.   

[sdBev]

I'm leaving shortly for the day.  Am hoping for a 'review' from you Bev, when I get home tonight!!  ..

Oops sorry!  Yesterday morning DH said "I can't belive they didn't cancel the DAV luncheon"  I asked "Why would it be cancelled"  He said "todays the holiday, Presidents day".  I said "Oh I need to get the taxes done". 

For years, practically since they changed and made Presidents day, I've done my taxes on this day.  Family was usually out of the house and I had all the receipts by then; and being the kind of person that likes to get awful stuff over with (instead of dreading it); I do taxes on this day.  So blouse is still sitting downstairs.  I may get to it today.  I'm going to sewing class on Thursday in Sioux Falls.  Thats a 3.5 hour drive, one-way for me.  So on occasion, I drive down the day before and spend the night.  This is one of those occasions.  The weather is iffy at this time of the year.  So when I paid for my class, I also made room reservations.   It's a nice trip for me and DH has decided to make it this time too.  An overnighter gives me plenty of time to shop.  I love the really, really good restaurants (we serve good wholesome, stick-to-your-ribs foods around here but not the really delicious stuff).  Sioux Falls also has a Butterfly house that we're crazy about and visit frequently.  Anyway today I need to get myself together, pack; I'm planning on donating some stuff to the thrift store up there and need to get that together.  Also will need to do some other mundane stuff before leaving home, like put out the garbage.  I still think I'll have a couple of hours to sew but I probably won't report back until Friday at the earliest.

[marciae]

Well, ok, guess I'll wait until later this week!!   Have a good trip.  Where are you in SD?  I have a grandson and family in Reliance.  His inlaws have a large cattle ranch in Chamberlain, on the river.  My DIL is from Whitewood - close to Deadwood and Spearfish.  Have lots of SD connections!  Happy sewing and shopping!

[SewGraceful]

Terri,

Your shell is beautiful.  So beautiful in fact, that I went to Louise's site and purchased the pattern 

[Terri K]

Thanks for the complements on my first shell.   Today was the first day I felt like my regular self (except I have no voice), but instead of venturing back into the sewing chamber I helped put up ceiling moldings and trim and then hanging a ceiling fan in the restored room.   I promise to work on the shell's sisters tomorrow.   

[Doris W. in TN]

I've had some flu bug all weekend ....  So instead of sewing, I spent time on the couch watching   Louise's 2 DVDs where she demonstrates industry techniques . 

Terri K - I'm so sorry to read you're sick.   I think you will be at Louise's booth in Atlanta in two weeks?   If you had to get sick, the good news is you will be over it by then.  There is some sort of cold virus going around here in Nashville area.  You'd think the cold winter would have killed all the germs! 

I have the first of those DVDs that Louise made and it is well worth the money!!!    I loved her tip on how to make a one-piece facing and wish I had watched that before I made my MOG jacket, where I simply offset the facing seam to the shoulder seam.   Louise's way is soo much better.     

[Towanda]

I watched both of the DVDs yesterday and love them. I need to look at them again so I can absorb the finer points. One thing that I wished was covered was information on dealing with zippers and buttonholes. I hope that there are more DVDs to come.

[Terri K]

Hi Doris - good to hear from you.  It's not over yet -  I had a miserable night and slept til 11 this morning   It's 47 and raining today in Asheville area - colder & snow in the higher mountains.  Actually I'm not working Louise's booth this year - that was just to have someone there because Louise and Sandy were double booked in teaching classes and I volunteered to do that.   I'm always happy to pitch in if they need me.   I need to spend some time at the Atlanta Sewing Center in Duluth since I bought one of those Babylock Evolve serger/coverstitch machines from them last year and need some guidance on using a bunch of the feet that came with it.   I've e-mailed them about it and they said it would be more productive to do this at the store instead of the expo floor and I agreed.   I'm driving down Thursday and will be at the Expo somewhere on Friday.

[lessalt]

Terri, This will be my first time at the Sew Expo and I am hoping we can meet. I did sign up for a few seminars with Linda Lee, Marcy Tilton, and Diane Ericson. I might be hanging out around the Sewing Workshop booth as Linda Lee is an old friend. What is your schedule like?

[hilda]

Louise,

I have a question on the sleeves for the new Pure and Simple or any other sleeve for that matter.  While I don't have a very rounded upper back I have a more forward shoulder seam - the ball of the shoulder is rounded to my front.  How should I install a sleeve so that it hangs straight and is in the right position for full range of motion.  It doesn't seem correct for me to just rotate the center of the sleeve cap to the more forward shoulder seam of the bodice.  That to me will make the sleeve crooked.  Am I just over thinking things or how do I compensate?  TIA

[LOUISE CUTTING]

It is late and been a very long day...I am in Chicago at a Bernina retreat and will get back with you tomorrow night...it takes some time to explain all that I want you to do...there are several methods that you can try to get the proper fit with the sleeve. I too have this ball 'thing' happening with my shoulders...so I am aware of the changes that need to be made.
till then, Louise 

[SewGraceful]

I got my P&S in the mail today.    I've read through the instructions and I hope to be able to trace the pattern this weekend.

[marciae]

I got my P&S traced and cut out - used some "hand painted in Hawaii" very small piece that I've had for YEARS.  All I did was trace the large and shorten - when I did a paper fit and measured I think it will be just fine.  Before I start sewing on that I wanted to finish a ABO top that I cut out of some stretch velvet whatever was I thinking?  I plan on sewing up the side seams tomorrow, try on and then decided if I'll finish or ??  It was a piece I've had for about 10 years.  I'd made my DGD a gymnastic suit out of it and always loved the colors.  When I moved in Nov I started to put the piece in the quilt bag but thought it would make a dressy top for the holidays!!   The color is a blue tourquoise.  Maybe I can "save" it until the 'holidays' this year??

My next CLD is going to be another ABO jacket.  I just love that jacket.  What are all of you working on??

[Karendee]

Marciae,

Did I understand that you used the size large for your jacket? I too have purchased the P&S and like the top a lot. I planned to make the XL, but I am more than one size larger than you. I'll either have to remeasure before cutting, or wait till I see yours finished. I'll probably do the latter. Sounds like you are a busy beaver.

Karen

[marciae]

That was for the shell  on the P&S.  Normally I can cut all med on Louise's patterns but the P&S shell measured out to a large!!   I'm very interested in the coat on the P&S.  When I was working on the ABO I noticed some notes I'd run off about lengthening the ABO - so that is probably the coat/jacket I'll make next!

[PatTM]

I am getting to be a bit motivated to do some Spring sewing.  I saw a skirt I think would be easy enough and I believe I can use Louise's In the Trenches skirt pattern with some mods.   The skirt I saw was a buttoned-up the front with a slightly pegged shape.   I am looking for some feed back as to what you may think.   I believe I can just use the elastic treatment in the back, split the front piece down the center and add lap-over and facing using a cut-on method - like Louise uses with her blouse fronts.   I appreciate any thoughts anyone might have - including that it is a bad idea.  OH, I also think I would eliminate the back center seam.    Fabric?  Would something like a poplin or linen work?
Thanks everyone!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am back for a day and then off to Puyallup. Got in very late last night from Chicago...delay in flights because of the weather backup. Could not find one of the kitties...grrr...didn't even show up hitting a spoon against a food can! Was hiding in all the decorative pillows on the bed...once found seemed to look in wonder............sooooo, what's the big deal...I guess she showed me about being gone for a few days. Now I just got to bed an hour later.

I saw a skirt I think would be easy enough and I believe I can use Louise's In the Trenches skirt pattern with some mods.   The skirt I saw was a buttoned-up the front with a slightly pegged shape.   I am looking for some feed back as to what you may think.   I believe I can just use the elastic treatment in the back, split the front piece down the center and add layover and facing using a cut-on method - like Louise uses with her blouse fronts.   I appreciate any thoughts anyone might have - including that it is a bad idea.  OH, I also think I would eliminate the back center seam.    Fabric?  Would something like a poplin or linen work?

The ITT skirt would work fine...with some mods. When dividing it down the center front look at some of the blouses and jackets as to how much they overlap at the center front, you could be adding about 4" past center front for overand under lap. If you are not putting the pocket in the skirt you can shorten it there, but you can also use the two other lines to shorten the length. That way, you keep the peg at the bottom. How long are you making it? Keep the buttons down the front quite close together, this helps when sitting so you don't get the fabric spread across your lap showing 'you' between the buttons...always not a good look! .

If you are buttoning it to your knee or just above, you can eliminate the back seam and vent, but if it is mid calf, you might have to still have the back seam and vent for walking.

The elastic is fine for placing just in the back...but you will need darts to remove the 'elastic ease' that was in the front. It could be two darts on each side. The first dart is placed at your hip bone...this is wider that commercial patterns call for. I always wondered why their darts had fabric taken out over the tummy? You need the fabric there, but by the time you get to you hip bone (I can sometimes actually find mine ) this is where your tummy usually ends and that is where the fabric can now be removed in a dart or two.

got to run, unpacking Chicago stuff and getting Puyallup stuff in...till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Hi Louise, welcome back - our animals, small and large seem to get attitudes when we're gone.  Even my chinchillas do.

I had been meaning to post this photo of a spring Bottega Veneta skirt and shirt that is all over the spring fashion magazines.   When I first saw it in the February Vogue at my hair salon, who got their magazine before I did about a month ago, I thought, I could make that using the ITT skirt and shirt out of a stripe shirting.  They've done the waist in one of the waist modifications that you explain how-to in your One-Seam pant collection I booklet, which apply to skirts as well.   Here's the one I'm talking about in the NY Magazine fashion section.   If you get Vogue, it's on page 147.    The shirt appears to have a back shield like the ITT, and they tuck the shirt in.   BTW, the shirt is $1,550 and the skirt is $2,450  so I  gotta get back upstairs to the sewing chamber where I'm behind on my sewing since the slow recovery from the creeping crud.

[PatTM]

Thanks Louise for your helpful suggestions!!   Hope you have a very good time at the Puyallup show. 
Terri- Usually I am right there with you as far as opinion about specific garments,  but I have to say this bottega ensemble leaves me cold.  The blouse is fine and I see what you mean about resembling Louise's ITT.  The skirt, to me, is not flattering, has almost a dirndl appearance - at least in this particular picture.  Maybe i am just reacting to what I know would be awful on me!
Hope you are feeling better and the weather there has improved.

[Terri K]

PatTM,  Vertical shirt stripes are always classic and flattering, which is what drew me to this "look", which is an updated shirtdress outfit.   In terms of high end fashion, many times it's the look that's inspiring me to sew a knock-off but not the entire garment, line for line.   I agree, the skirt BT is showing does have fullness in the hip due to the pleating around the waist but  I would sew the ITT as is and maybe sass up the waistband and add a belt.   When you sew you can make it any way you like 

I am much better thank you so much but DH and DS have it now    and it's been snow showers all day but nothing on the ground.   

[marciae]

I just finished TWO - ABO tops!!  I finished the stretch velvet and even did some top stitching on it and it looks pretty darn good.  I haven't even tried it on!  The other one only needed hemming.  I'd made a 'wearable' muslin months ago - decided if I finished it I could wear it!  It needs to be washed to revive it after months and months of laying around!   Sooo, this month for LC stuff - 2 ABO's; 1EBB and new elastic in a pair of one seams!  I did tons of sewing this month.  Needed to get away from the move and the mental stress over it so have been very productive with the machine.  March has been designated as - - unpack and get on with things!!

Terri - glad your feeling better - I'm sure the mess in the house contributed to your 'crud' - -

[Karendee]

Congratulations, Marciae. You are really on a roll. I've got to look up the ABO top. Sometimes I can't remember the acronym's meaning. LOL!

Karen

[kaaren]

I am determined to finish the Flow pattern before Puyallup.  I get so nervous clipping to the "seam line, turning so neither side is favored, and then edge stitching"  As a result, I only sew a little while before returning to the garment.  It will be great, but definitely not for beginners.  And if you are making it, use very lt wt fabric.  You are going through layers of fabric in the back neck.  But the directions are good, need lots of reading and then go step by step.  Back to work but I have reached side 6!  Kaaren