Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am here for a second...I am flying away for the weekend...first time ever to be away for the Christmas holiday by myself...it otta' be interesting.

The sleeves are dropped slightly on Ebb...I don't think of it as a 'drop shoulder'...it is a seamline when it is in the kimono style pattern draft. If fabric came wide enough in the kimono pattern drafting...there would not even need to be a seam there. It would be a 'cut on' sleeve like the Flow style...but that has a seam down the center front and center back (tucked into the back pleat).

A  small shoulder pad sets your shoulder line....if you need shoulders, buy 'em! Garments look so much better on the human form. Models in magazines 'come' with a set of shoulders...mores' the pity...but if you have a slope to your shoulder a small set of shoulder pads just make the garment hang better once worn.

Well, need to finish packing and get a 'face' on...till later, Louise

[Terri K]

This photo of me wearing the wool challis Ebb top should give you a better idea of the shoulder fit.    I have square but scrawny shoulders    and I like the way it fits me   

Have a restful and happy Christmas vacation Louise and I hope the holiday craziness at the airports is low!

[Robin]

...A  small shoulder pad sets your shoulder line....if you need shoulders, buy 'em! Garments look so much better on the human form....

Words to live by.
I sew camisoles with a cut-on sleeve and shoulder pads.
I use a "nude" color of charmeuse silk.  I wear them uner everything and it adds a layer of warmth in the winter.
It's a little hot on the very hottest days of summer.

I call my shoulder pads my "falsie".

Terri I love that top on you.  It reminds me a of a Vogue pattern I sewed back in the 80's.  I sewed it in seersucker and made matching shorts.  I wore that outfit to death.  I think it is high time for a revival, although I don't think I'll wear matching shorts this time. 

[corinne kelly]

Thanks to Louise and all on the shoulder issue!
Terri,Thank you for the pic showing the shoulder clearly.  I think this will work for me.   
Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays .....I'm off to start cooking (rather be sewing).

[mamasneedles]

Robin:  Do you have a commercial pattern for your camisole with cut-on sleeves?  Or is it self-drafted?  There was a vogue pattern many years ago for a camisole with cap sleeves and shoulder pads that I have since regretted not purchasing!  TIA for any advice you can offer!

Cynthia

[shl]

I received a last minute invite to the neighbors Xmas dinner. Having nothing new to wear..traced, cut out ,and made the Ebb top in 5 hrs. I used fabricmart 20 yrs of black bundle fabric. It turned out fantastic!! I didn't have time for buttonholes ( just sewed on the buttons) and decided to drop the sleeve 2 in.  I agree with Terri, this is a real winner..am making another tomorrow when company leaves..

[shl]

Meant 20 yards not yrs.

[Sewshopper]

Some of us would be perfectly ok with 20 yrs of black bundles

Karleene

[sdBev]

I ... Having nothing new to wear..traced, cut out ,and made the Ebb top in 5 hrs...

Wow that's definitely a TNT for you!

[Alice in Bama]

Louise and her groupies,

                Has any one made The Flo top it look intimidating to me    But I think that about allot of patterns when I finally sit down at my sewing machine just do it i find it was not as hard as I thought

Alice

DOING THE FLO  TOP

[Robin]

Robin:  Do you have a commercial pattern for your camisole with cut-on sleeves?  Or is it self-drafted?  There was a vogue pattern many years ago for a camisole with cap sleeves and shoulder pads that I have since regretted not purchasing!  TIA for any advice you can offer!

Cynthia

I used a Vogue 8118 that has been out of print for a while.
It is designed with long sleeves and I just cut them off to create a cap sleeve.
Here is the pattern review I posted back when I was first getting onto internet sewing boards.
Hope this helps.  My camisoles aren't even close to wearing out.  Eventually I'll make a few more and perhaps I will find another /better pattern.

Edited to add:  that is a review for a top I sewed.  I never actually reviewed the camisoles, but that was the pattern I used.

[marciae]

I just ordered the Ebb pattern!!   This morning I cut out a top - anything but ordinary - out of some tourquoise velor that I had in stash.  It was originally purchased when I was making gymnastic outfits for my DGD.  When I was placing the pattern I saw the sleeve that said - top sleeve.  Are you ready for this - - I then grabbed the pattern to make sure it was only a one piece sleeve.  To me "top" meant the top part of sleeve, yada yada yada!  Talk about a duh moment.  Actually it was a - way to early in the morning to be cutting - moment!!

[Terri K]

The first Florida sewing retreat over last weekend is over, and I heard that Louise plans to bring some wonderful fabrics and buttons to the Atlanta show.     Alice and I will be there.    We figure that it's only once a year and every once in a while you just need to do something for yourself and see your friends.
 
If you like Louise's styles, be sure to bookmark the Eskander web site to see his collections.   I just found the site - duh!   I get the catalogs from Neiman Marcus but the Eskandar web site has the entire collection, not just the NM buyers selections.    I always like to check out the coordinating fabrics and colors he puts together since he only uses the best fabrics and why not - the simple styles show them off.    I was looking at that classic black and cream "side pleated" plaid dress (page 10, outfit #2) and wondering what the lines were.    It looks like it may have a pleated godet in the sides.    There are a lot of jackets and coats that are definitely "Of The Moment", like the tabard and coat on page 2, where he embroidered the edges and turn back fronts.  Get out your embroidery machine!

[Alice in Bama]

Atlanta or bustshi Terri
 I am still fighting the grud I am still having problem sleeping at night  sleep great once the sun comes up. so I been sleeping from 5 am till noon . I did not sign up for any morning class this time got my tickets TODAY ALONG WITH MY CATALONG  about the expo so that part I am ready to go.

    Yes expo in March and Ashville retreat in October But that a little cold [burr]  Maybe come to Ashville in August this next year for a private retreat in Ashville then to Grandfather mountain for my next smocking lesson get ready Joan . Any way see you soon .  Can't wait to see the new fabric And your new patterns Louise
Alice

[joanier]

Come right on up Alice, we're ready for you.  Might not want to come right now, though.  This morning was 11 degrees.  Tomorrow through Friday or Saturday we're predicted to have highs of teens and low around 0 degrees.  Nice time to hibernate.

[Alice in Bama]

joanie,

   When it gets to hot down here I will be up for sure .

Alice

[Alice in Bama]

The first Florida sewing retreat over last weekend is over, and I heard that Louise plans to bring some wonderful fabrics and buttons to the Atlanta show.     Alice and I will be there.    We figure that it's only once a year and every once in a while you just need to do something for yourself and see your friends.
 
 

    I would like to add my 2 cents on going to the expo its my birthday present I tell my husband to give me every year he loves it because  he does' nt have to find any thing i love because it what I really want I have Friend Sally Smith her birthday in March she gets the same present



Alice in Bama

[Karendee]

Alice,

Your nice gift works for everyone! Good plan. LOL.

Karen

[Alice in Bama]

Karen,

    Are you going to be at our little get together we call expo this time You really should try to come 

Alice in Bama

[Terri K]

Stopping in to see what was cooking here before making a trip to Lowes for some items to keep the rest of our den ceiling from caving in until the insurance agent and then the pros come in to tear it all out and take it away     As DH and I were working on the closet remodeling, we were unaware that a solder in a pipe carrying water to the upper floor hot water heating had broken.   The ceiling board and insulation - actually there were two ceilings since one had been added over another -  had absorbed all the H2O they could and just as we saw and felt this little drip around 3 pm - there goes the ceiling and water pouring down on me and the carpet and everything - here are a couple of photos of the yuck that we cleaned up before it got dark.    More on the Flickr Sh*t Happened Set and my Blog



Getting back to the Atlanta Expo - It's good to have something good to look forward to other than getting this mess repaired!   This did not affect the sewing room upstairs - pipes are behind it under the floor.    If we want to do a dinner get-together, I would like to suggest a different (and closer) place than La Madelines.    I wasn't impressed with the food at all.   The first night I arrived last year I found a nice Chinese restaurant in a small shopping center on Satellite road - the one just south of the Hilton - that had a nice room in the back where groups could sit together.   The food was pretty decent and prices were reasonable and when I was there, the patrons were eating in the booths in the front with the exception of some policemen and detectives who went in the back to eat and meet.      There are other restaurants over in the outlet Mall across from I85 as well. 

[marciae]

Oh, Terri - what a mess!!!!

[Karendee]

Alice,

I probably won't come this year; I've got several trips planned this spring, the first one being Feb. 12-17. And I hate to be gone from DH too much because he has just been diagnosed with Type 2  Pre/ Diabetes and I am working hard on his meal preparations etc. Despite the fact that I cook in a very healthy manner, focusing on fresh grown items and lack of pkg. foods, DH has suddenly gotten more hungry and wants/needs to eat frequently. So we have eaten out a lot less, and I no longer let him fend for himself on the weekends at lunch. I laugh out loud when he calls from work panicing about what to eat at a certain restaurant. But this too shall pass, and we'll get it under control.  So, I think the 4 spring trips I have planned are probably enough for me to leave him at this time. He is such a kind, generous man and would never leave me without support when I needed him, so I plan to do the same  except for my previously planned trips.

Thanks so much for asking me, Alice.

Terri, sorry about your mess!

Karen

[Terri K]

Question for Louise -  Posting a couple of photos of a eskandar items from the resort 09 collection.   I like the white linen V-neck top pictured here

The V neckline is very much like the discontinued Sewing Workshop Wonton Blouse here

(photo from Waechter's sample collection - they don't have the pattern anymore).   

I'm thinking that to get the same look pictured here that I could use the shell from your versatile Less Is More pattern ,  morphing the interesting "V" neckline onto it.   I could also use the top from the Anything But Ordinary pattern.   Any suggestions for those who don't have that pattern like me?   Or maybe this is another pattern look you are working on?

Also here's the tabard with the embroidery peaking out at the edges.   Looks like they embroidered the edges before pressing and stitching - or maybe they just faced it. 

[Alice in Bama]

Hi Karen,

        Sorry to here you not coming again this year . Once we get you there you will be hook. My dh has type 2 diebet es also but seams to mange just find he reseach IT a lat of info of the internet to understand what to eat and not to eat but he does not eat like he suppose to ion my opinion but it his personal choice all I can do is try to encourage him to eat but his blood sugar stay normal so i do not complain to much . my DSIL  has it also she took a course at the local collage that her doctor recommend and it taught her alot understand what to eat and how to eat and how you might check into that for you hubby  I am sure they probably have a  similar class at UT

Alice

[lakestitcher]

Terri, I love that white v-neck blouse too. Sure hope Louise has something like that "in the works". That would be perfect for our hot, hot Summers.
I have the ABO & Less is More patterns but, alas.........I'm not as creative as you are and don't think I could make a v-neck from those. I need very explicit (and easy) directions. 

[PatTM]

Terri-  I too really like that v-neck eskandar shirt.  I checked my Won Ton pattern and I am wondering if you could morph the neckline and front from the Won Ton to Louise's " A Subtle Twist"?   The Subtle Twist is so very close to the typical eskandar shirt in style and fit.   The only difference I would be looking to achieve is the neckline and front detail.    I love, love the subtle twist pattern.  I've never used the Won Ton, that big  kimono like sleeve and band at the hem does not appeal to me- not sure why I bought the pattern, but if I could combine the neckline feature with a pattern of Louise's - then it was money well spent.

I really enjoy the eskandar website, but find the catalogs much better to really see the details of these garments.

Pat

[Terri K]

PatTM,   I was thinking the AST as well and just lay the front on a fold at CF and transfer & cut the neck lines out.    That shape would be closer to the eskandar tops, but the neckline would also be nice on the other two tops I mentioned.    Shells like those are the workhorses in my closet in the warm months.    It looks like the band around the discontinued Wonton neckline is a long continuous piece cut on grain and just criss-crossed at the front where the V is squared off.    Is that correct?     

I took the photos from the NM resort catalog, but that top is not on their website.    They describe it as short or medium length, in oyster linen for either $320 or $350 based on the length.   Every time we make or re-make a pattern that decreases the cost.   Similar to buying an expensive piece of clothing like a coat,  and wearing it many times for several years, VS  just once or twice, or never.

[PatTM]

Yes Terri, the neckline band is cut on the cross grain and is one folded, continuous length, crisscrossed at center front.   I think you could just overlay the front of the WonTon onto the front of the AST and tweak a bit to get rid of the front opening of the AST and you would be there.  Oh, the joy of sewing!  And getting these wonderful, very expensive styles for so much less!!!  Thanks to Louise and Linda, two talented ladies.  
Thanks to you too Terri for thinking about the Won Ton- I had been looking at that  eskandar shirt and thinking it would be so neat to be able to copy it.   White linen here I come!  Have to check out the Waechter's site.
The other lines I would love to figure out are www.babettesf.com, ( big question here is fabric), www.Planetclothingonline.com, and www.oska.de.  Some of these have similar looks to eskandar.
Pat

[Terri K]

I'll be going down to Bellagio Everyday tomorrow after having lunch down in Biltmore Square with a sewing friend.   Will check out the designs and report back.  They also carry BabetteSF.    When I was briefly in there in Dec - just had an hour prior to closing - there was a shirt/jacket by a Japanese designer that was just like the new SW Liberty shirt.     Fabrics -  be creative and use your light weight and loosely woven wools and any textured fabrics.    The knit tops that they sell for layering and underneath are very simple styles. 

[PatTM]

Terri- I'll look forward to hearing about your visit to Bellagio's.  When I was there in Oct for the workshop they were selling Planet at the store in Biltmore Square as well as Babette.   I came home with a sweater and a longish, crinkled tank top.
My friend and I had drinks at a place called the Corner Kitchen (I think that is the name) in the Village.  Nice spot, good food and friendly people.  Joyce suggested this place to us.
Pat

[Karendee]

Alice,

You are always so nice and inclusive. We'll all be fine, here but I just hate to go out of town so much that he feels neglected. But you're right that one trip with you at the event and I would be hooked. I remember how I talked and talked to you when we first phone/met. It was like I had known you forever. Glad for the info. concerning diabetes; those are good areas to research.

Karen

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi all, you gals sure have been busy posting and posting....I simply have not stopped since the retreats ended on Sunday...Linda left Monday and I hit the floor running. I had to proof the envelope and instructions one more time for 'Pure and Simple'...that is what the next pattern is being called before it went off to the printers. There are so many measurements and the instructions are very detailed.

I will now ask a favor...I called webboy to see if he could get the pattern info up on my webstie......at the moment Mr. Webboy is hunting in one of the square states out west and can't get on my website until he gets back. He was able to get the new Shapes up for me through...but 'Pure and Simple' was just to large and would take too long to do...his excuse and I'm sure he is sticking to it! I should have the pattern from the printers in about 10 days or 2 weeks, but I wanted to get the picture for you all to see.

So, I will throw myself on my sewing machine and ask if anyone can put it up for me if I send you the image.

In looking over the past few days here in this chat area...gaud, Terri....it just looks awful... water damage is terrible....all house damage of any kind is terrible....you just don't know where to start....and you go around in circles.

I love the new Eskandar white linen blouse...not quite sure where the sleeve seams are from the picture and the folds...but if you add width to the ABO shell in 'no mans land'...that is halfway between the neck and the shoulder it will widen up the shell...hmmm similar to Eskandar's wide shell with the little tab over the shoulder....that way you now have a pullover...Sandy and I plan a trip to Neiman's next week and I'm sure the white blouse you pictured here will be in his department. I will take a closer look and let you know my thoughts. 

I envy you a trip to Bellagio and Bellagio Everyday...I get my fill when I do the retreat in Asheville in Oct. I love the Corner Kitchen...you have to be there early enough to order the Waffles and the best bacon! I talked to the owner several years ago...I love to talk to restaurant owners...my husband and I used to be in the restaurant business in Ft Lauderdale when we were first married (try running 5 totally different restaurants at the same time...plus I was teaching Fashion Design at one college and Interior Design at the University)...what can I say...youth! But it is always fun to share restaurant 'war' stories. Well, I am off and running again...many more things to cross off my list tonight. 

till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Louise, if you send me the Pure and Simple image, I will figure out how to put it on my Flickr site and link it here for the time being.   

Thanks for all the goodwill messages about our water damage.   I'm sniffling because I ran outside several times in sub-zero temps while I was soaking wet     but the good news is that the furnace company was able to fix the pipe and troubleshoot the entire system today.   There are so many other homes with broken pipes where the hot water baseboard heat was their only heat source that they took care of them first.    We understood this because what broke is backup for us when it gets down into the sub freezing temps.   Now we can proceed with getting the rest of the ceiling (that we have propped up and covered the big hole with plastic) removed early next week and a new one with insulation installed.   Terri's requirement to those prospective companies was US citizen labor ONLY, no illegals.  I told them, if you employ illegals, don't bother coming to my house.    If they can't get work here, they won't come here.

[PatTM]

Thanks Louise- I look forward to your new pattern "Pure and Simple".   I too envy those folks in Asheville ability to visit Bellagio just any ole time!  But, I also envy your travels around the country and seeing lots of great stuff in so many different, but similar types of stores.  I also appreciate that what you are doing is hard work!

Pat

[Ritzy]

The neckline on this top may be a "starting" point

 http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details_v2.asp?Store_id=413&page_id=23&Item_ID=1151