Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[Velma42 (Barbara)]

Regarding machine washing silk duipioni, I did a test swatch - yes, it lost its sheen, which was not a big deal; yes, it was much softer, which I liked; but eeek just as I was afraid, it came out with spots!  So I will resort to having my new ABO rust silk duipioni jacket dry cleaned.  Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions.

[Linda 75142]

Regarding machine washing silk duipioni, I did a test swatch - yes, it lost its sheen, which was not a big deal; yes, it was much softer, which I liked; but eeek just as I was afraid, it came out with spots!  So I will resort to having my new ABO rust silk duipioni jacket dry cleaned.  Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions.

Oh, sorry to hear about the spots.  I've never had that problem with washing any of my silk.  Good thing you did the test!

[Alice in Bama]

   You fabric sounds beautiful .   I got a question about your spots did you fill the machine up with water before you but the test swatch in and got spots
Because I have never had that problem . Did you use shampoo? or detergent ?
I was just wondering ?

Alice

[Velma42 (Barbara)]

Alice - I just threw the test swatch in with the other laundry as the washer was filling with water.  I wonder if it has anything to do with the fabric softener (which I always dilute).  I've heard sometimes softener can leave greasy spots.  Oh well.  I didn't have time to run another test - was too anxious to get the ABO cut out and made in time to have for the Asheville workshop. 

My ABO I made out of pink linen blend and embellished with machine embroidery turned out nicely, if I do say so myself!  And I LOVE the new Ebb and Flow pattern - hurry and get it to us, Louise!!!  Thanks for posting the picture, Terry.

[reanns]

Lynda - you will have to keep our posted on your adventures on Haiti.  As they say, you'll have to come for a visit to 'my rock' sometime.  The Caribbean islands are all only a hop apart:)  And what fun you will have.  You will have to learn a different language, won't you.  Believe Haiti is French-speaking.  Good luck.

ReAnn

[Terri K]

I've been thinking what a wonderful dress the Flow (with the scarf collar) would make.  It has a pleat in the back too.  Can't you see this in a wool gauze or challis with a great belt for fall?

[PatTM]

I think a dress is a great idea for that pattern using the view with the scarf!   I look forward to seeing this pattern in the "flesh".  Hope Louise has it by Asheville.

I have been working on an 'In the Trenches" skirt today.  I had tried it before but screwed up the fit.   Today I got it!.   This is a great skirt!  Louise uses the same elastic waist technique with this skirt as is in the One Seam pant.  You get the same smooth waistline fit and the skirt is pegged as well.   The best fitting straight skirt I have ever made.  Can't wait to finish.
Thanks Louise!  You are a genius!

Pat

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear all,

I am home after being on 'vacation' for most of Sept. I never stop with business no matter where I am. I worked on the envelope and instructions on dial-up instead of high speed....it would take all night to download the instruction pages and then I would proof them early in the morning while my company slept or were out for very early morning walks. Finally, everything went 'to bed' and are now at the printers. Not quite sure when I will received Ebb & Flow...but I know it will be in the next 2 weeks. I will have it by Asheville and if you are signed up for my newsletter you will be the first to know when I have them in hand.

I have been only home for 3 days and in about an hour I'll be heading off to Novi for the Sewing Expo. Home next week and then to pull the final details for the retreat with Susan Khalje together. Then get the stuff done for the Kansas City Sewing Expo and Asheville.

I have one more filming in December and then done...ya right! . There is another DVD in the planning stage and will be working on in November and December, plus the next pattern is well into production....designed, graded and first sample in the works. So that will also be done in November. 

There are at least 5 more 'Shapes' pattern being working on also. Linda Lee and I will be working on ideas and getting details finished while we are in Novi together. We are doing a daily trunk show for Shapes...current designs and future.

Well, I better go...Twinkie (kitty feeling better...all while I was gone, was under a vet tech care...but is now totally deaf and not sure if hearing will ever come back) wants to walk across the keys....

If I can get a decent connection at the hotel (some are so awful), I will let you know about the Sewing Expo in Novi....it is always a decent show.

By the way...thanks Terri for putting up the pix of Ebb and Flow...that too took hours to get to her...and I know you would be able to get it up....I think dial-up would never have worked to get it here...so thanks for your help. Well, till later, Louise

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Morning all,

Just a few minutes before we leave for the airport to return back to 'O' town. Sandy and I need to make lists to get all the things done before the retreat next weekend with Susan Khalje. Never a dull moment.

Novi was busy with ladies and carrying shopping bags and a Project Runway...Novi style...was happening in the area in front of our booth and isle with a final fashion show and awards Sat night. I too received an award this past weekend...'Teacher of the Year'....which came as a total surprise.

Linda Lee and I presented a Shapes Trunk show every morning from one of the stages...we sold out of the High Five Jacket and Six Sense Skirt. Linda and I already have 5 new patterns underway and they will be coming out over the next months.

Well, it looks like we are ready to take our huge suitcases downstairs and head to the airport....OK, I know I will pay overweight...I will send many things via UPS in 11 boxes and 2 steamer trunks but, I always take my 4 different class teaching samples with me. Plus 3 point pressers that have been ordered. I always wonder what the TSA people think of what I am packing....'scraps' of paper and fabric and 'wooden door stops'

till later, Louise       

[Velma42 (Barbara)]

Well, many congratulations on "Teacher of the Year"!!!  You are a GREAT teacher!  And your humor is much appreciated.  I always enjoy your classes.

Barbara

[marciae]

Congrats Louise - you are definitely a great teacher - you deserved the award!

[Linda Dean]

Congratulations on the Teacher of the Year Award.  You deserve it.  You are a great teacher!
Linda

[Karendee]

Congratulations to a great teacher!

Karend

[PatTM]

I had a chance yesterday to visit a Nieman's Last Call store in Denver, and I happened to be there at just the right time (hard to do).   The day before they had received a BIG shipment of couture merchandise from their regular stores.  Most of the merchandise I recognized from this Spring and Fall.  There were several pieces from Eskandar.  It was a great opportunity to try on different styles and lengths of these styles.  There were jackets like Louise's "Of the Moment" and the tabard style from that same pattern.  Several pants and shirts like the "A Subtle Twist". I was able to determine which of these work for me, so I have a clearer idea of what to sew.

I then visited Elfriede's in Boulder and she has gotten in a lot of new fall fabrics including several pieces from Armani.  Beautiful stuff!  I saw a lot of choices for making up some of Louise's patterns.  Needless to say it was a good day!

Pat

[Terri K]

Thanks for posting Patricia.   I think Eskandar's pieces are flattering on all body types, even straight up and down ones like mine.   I love to try on his pieces and outfits, and if the price is right, add to my collection.   The fabrics are luscious and the retail prices sure make me appreciate Louise's interpretations because they are elegant and maintain that same sophistication.      And it's not because we're trying to hide any lumps and bumps    

[PatTM]

Terri- I like to try on his (eskandar's) pieces as well.   I also sometimes buy if, as you say, the price is right.  Particularly the knits.  Pants not so much.  Why? when Louise's pants fit me so well and are essentially the same look.   Yesterday the colors were nothing I was interested in. 
You are right that these styles look well on just about everybody, but some proportions are better than others on a given person.  I figured out that the longer shirts are not for me.
The long tabard is not as good as a shorter one.  I really liked one of the skirt styles.  The one that drops straight from the waist to about thigh level and then has a long gathered piece below.  I like that on me better than the 3-tiered style.

[lessalt]

Terri & Pat, I love Eskandar and Shirin Guild pieces also but have only scored once when I bought a SG coat that was on sale. Lately, it seems even when they are on sale they are beyond my budget. Their fabrics areTDF which helps the oversize garments drape beautifully and not look so overwhelming. I just bought a sweater from JJill with that same look but for many less $.

[PatTM]

That is a lovely sweater from J Jill and has the style of the Eskandar and SGuild pieces.   I think the fabric used in these clothes is one of the best features.   Speaking of Shirin Guild, Saks used to sell her clothing, but no more.  She had/has a website, but since early this year nothing is there except a note saying an update is coming.  I have been wondering if she is still in business.
I really like her designs.  They have a bit more edge than eskandar.  The new pattern Louise has coming- the one Terri suggests a dress- reminds me a lot of the Shirin Guild style.

[marciae]

I had a chance yesterday to visit a Nieman's Last Call store in Denver, and I happened to be there at just the right time (hard to do).   The day before they had received a BIG shipment of couture merchandise from their regular stores.  Most of the merchandise I recognized from this Spring and Fall.  There were several pieces from Eskandar.  It was a great opportunity to try on different styles and lengths of these styles.  There were jackets like Louise's "Of the Moment" and the tabard style from that same pattern.  Several pants and shirts like the "A Subtle Twist". I was able to determine which of these work for me, so I have a clearer idea of what to sew.

I then visited Elfriede's in Boulder and she has gotten in a lot of new fall fabrics including several pieces from Armani.  Beautiful stuff!  I saw a lot of choices for making up some of Louise's patterns.  Needless to say it was a good day!

Pat

Don't you just love Elfriede's??  Sounds like a wonderful day!

[Terri K]

Pat, I too enjoy Shirin Guild, especially her skirts.   The Shapes skirt is very much like the Shirin Guild asymmetrical shape skirts.   

The Fall 2008 Eskandar catalog has a lot of sweater knits in long and short versions of the Of The Moment jacket.   If you want to eliminate the OTM topstitched hems when using a chunky knit, you could finish the knit edges like Shannon Gifford suggests in her response re finishing the edges of knits for sweater coats and the like -  see our discussion of knit finishes on  Emmaonesock fabric topic .  (having trouble typing because I grated the top of my right little finger making salad this evening - no fun)

Here's a link to one of these knit Eskandar Cardigans on eBay where the front, sleeve and hem edges were left to just roll.  You could use Shannon's technique - or Georgene's description of the Loes Hinse binding around the neckline or anywhere else. 


Here's a photo of another one Eskandar Aubergine COTTON Open Cardigan Sweater Jacket from Doggypawz eBay auctions


Here's an eBay auction for an Eskandar cream wool/cashmere sweater jacket hemmed like the OTM jacket

[PatTM]

Marciae- Elfriede's is a treasure, so is she!  And her staff!  I have such fun there.

Terri, I have the fall Eskandar catalog and think there were a big profusion of knits.  I noticed in Neiman's that on all the knit tabards (at least the ones they had) the edges curled badly.   I also saw Shannon's solutions and intend to try one or two of them. 
The Shapes skirt is one I want to check out when I come to Asheville.  The one on Linda Lee in the Sewing Workshop gallery looks really good on her.

[Terri K]

I'm looking forward to meeting many of you later this month.   I've been hunting a piece of drapey rayon knit I know is in my stash to make that Shapes skirt.   It will look completely different in a knit, as does the SW Lotus skirt.    I saw a Rick Owens skirt that was very similar to the SW Lotus made completely out of a drapey knit - yoke and everything were pretty much the same.

[kaaren]

The Shapes skirt is a line for line copy of a linen Miyake. ( It is very old.) I am lucky to have it living in a closet within walking distance!  But way too small for either of us to try it on.  At a good price, sometimes Miyake clothing is just worth examining.  But Eskandar and Shirin Guild are easy to dissect in a dressing room with Louise's ideas.  Kaaren

[MaryAnn]

Terri, a while back you posted a picture of Louise in a white scrunch-neck blouse. (You had taken the picture at an Expo, but I don't remember which one.) I believe you said it had started out life as an ABO jacket. Do you remember any of the details of any changes Louise may have made? I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into posting so much valuable information for us.

[Terri K]

MaryAnn,  It's this photo from the Atlanta Expo last March.    Here's the whole Atlanta Expo Set on Flickr


Louise is wearing a white blouse that is the AST shirt made from a pima cotton shirt fabric, with the scrunch neck collar and 3 buttons. The collar scrunches down when you use a shirting or drapey fabric and no interfacing.   The actual height of the Eskandar shirt like this is about 4 1/4" with 2 buttons if you want to increase the height.   Her jacket is the basic AST in a black light weight wool - probably tropical wool.   Sandy is wearing the Of The Moment Jacket.

Here are the instructions Louise provided using the A Subtle Twist pattern to make a scrunch-neck shirt: 

1) Measure at the stitching line all around the neck from front edge to front edge;
2) Then cut a rectangle shape collar pattern that same length (completely straight) and the finished height you want (4.25" is the height of the Eskandar scrunch neck), adding seam allowances (SA) at the two ends and along the outside of the collar
3) Stitch it to the garment, trim, press it and then fold the collar right sides together along the collar top fold line - note that the inside 5/8" seam allowance hangs below and is still loose at this point;
4) Stitch the short front edges exactly along the seam line... so it comes directly from the garment front edges.  Trim, press open, turn and then turn the loose inside neckline of the collar to the inside (making sure the collar remains at approximately 4" all the way along);
5) Press the seam allowance in place, trim the SA down and then use SAS along the seam, pressing into position and only stitching it along that seam from the right side.  Note that the front edges and the top fold do not have stitching on them.
6) Suggest putting a snap at the base of the collar to keep it from separating as the collar scrunches down.

[MaryAnn]

Wow, Terri, that was speedy. Thank you for the information. I've copied and pasted it into a Word file and printed it out. Now to plow through my copious supplies for the perfect shirting....

[PatTM]

Thanks Terri for posting the Atlanta Expo pics.  I would really like to go to this Expo and we always visit Atlanta in the Spring, but early March is just a bit early for us.  One of these days!

I look forward to meeting you in Asheville and also hopefully seeing some of the ladies who were there last year.  There seemed to be some interest in attending for a second time this year. 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi all...it has been a busy time since I returned from Novi...I seem to always be hitting the floor running the second I get home. Today I pulled the final details for the retreat starting on Thurs with Susan Khalji. Tomorrow pulling the final gros. list for the cocktail party Thurs. night and dinner party Sat night. I'll be cooking all day Thurs. The 'store' for the retreat is now set with new fabrics...Novi boxes of product not sold  returned home on Friday...but I could not face them until today. 

Webboy is getting Ebb and Flow ready to go up on the website. Pre-orders won't be for a few more weeks though.

Thank you Terri for posting the info about the scrunch neck...in the picture (boy do I look tired) it is actually done on AST...but certainly can be done on ABO. This picture and posting is so timely. I had to proof my article for Threads that will be in the next issue. They asked all the contributing editors to do a 'white' shirt challenge'...I did the AST and changed the neck into the 4" scrunch...I believe I put 3 small 1/2" buttons up the scrunch neck ( I can't remember...I don't have the shirt back yet)...no interfacing in the collar. We were also asked to submit at least 2 techniques we did on the shirt. I did echo stitching up the front band and around the collar, turning it at 90 degrees  at the collar points. Then echo stitching around the hem and sleeve bottom. The other tip was the shirt fabric making it's own interfacing...I have used it on many of my button up the front shirt patterns...but I still see the 'old' way being shown in the commercial patterns, so i though I would show that technique also. With the fabric only being turned once and a separate piece of interfacing being inserted...all adding bulk, the way i showed was very flat and crisp.

I was told I almost made the cover of that issue! But seeing it was a white shirt and it would be on the newstands at Christmas time the white shirt didn't stand out enough..... :'(among the other magazine covers). Threads make mock magazine racks with lots of different magazines lined up and then place different covers on the Threads magazines and place them in with the other magazines...just to see which of the Threads covers stand out. This helps in the end to which cover get chosen. Oh well, maybe another time. 

Well, I have some more work to do before i finally slump for the day. till later, Louise

[MaryAnn]

Thanks, Louise, for embellishing Terri's reply to my query about your scrunch-neck shirt. Just to be clear: the collar is 4" finished and it is just 2 layers of fashion fabric with nothing in between?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Just to be clear: the collar is 4" finished and it is just 2 layers of fashion fabric with nothing in between?

Exactly....when I was sent the galley proofs for the article...it has the step by steps for making the long rectangle collar scrunch. I asked if the illustrations could be placed on their Threads website so the step by steps in the article could be followed with the illustrations. Threads put a ton of info in the pages dealing with my white shirt. So when the issue is on the news stands the illustrations can be seen on the website.

Till later, Louise

[MaryAnn]

That's great that Threads will put up the step-by-step on the scrunch neck. I'm looking forward to getting this issue, but I'm going to charge ahead with my version. I pulled 2 pieces of cotton from my stash last night. One is very soft; the other, crisp. I'm thinking the soft one, unless your experience guides me to the other. Thank you , Louise and Terri. Here's another case of "timing is everything", don't you think?

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I used a 100% cotton...very tiny birdseye pique. It had a semi soft hand...kinda' like a very good men's pima cotton shirting...Running for the retreat stuff...till later, Louise

[Linda Dean]

Louise,
How is the retreat going?  I wish I had been able to attend.  I know y'all are having a good time.  I hope to sew all day tomorrow and pretend I am with all of you.
Linda

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I HAVE BEEN UP SINCE 4AM EASTERN TIME....eek cap lock left on....We have a full house at the retreat. This morning, I've been changing the house from cocktail party on Thursday evening to dinner party tonight...we have had some bad rains in the evenings so I have had to figure out different things so everything could be in the house with around 30 ladies total instead of having the evening events on the two outside patios. 

Susan is working a lot with fitting and doing demos and I am have been doing the same. One lady purchase some new linen very unusual print fabric I ordered from Japan....cut out the High Fine Jacket...sewed it up throughout the day and was taking a friend out to dinner wearing her new jacket! I can't wait to hear the comments she received. The fabrics I found for the retreat were wonderful.

Linda, we will see you in January!

Well, got to run. Have to wake up Susan, Sandy will be here in an hour to load up the car with 'wants' from the students and we will set out for the hotel. More later, Louise 

[Linda Dean]

Louise,
It sounds like I am really missing a good time.  I would love to see a picture of the High Five Jacket in the linen from Japan.
Linda