Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[Terri K]

I enjoyed helping Louise and Sandy.   Louise always looks fabulously put together.    Both days I was there she had the most unique necklaces that were very artistic and pulled together her outfit.   Unfortunately, I was so busy talking to people and helping I didn't have time to take more photos.   Will take more in Atlanta - hopefully of some of the other SG friends.   I should finish my first Of The Moment jacket this evening and will take some photos to post.   The cover of the NM catalog has a gorgeous marigold linen Of The Moment with the wider right front and variations are all through the pages.  There's also a white blouse with a stand-up collar that looks like the Anything but Ordinary jacket.   Lots of ABO tops and one in linen (he uses linen mostly for spring/summer) with a longer sleeve.   I saw that Sandy was wearing one of the ABO tops in Asheville with the sleeve lengthened.    Also many AST jackets.   

I wore the butter/cream AST on the first day but didn't get a photo of me in it.     I plan on wearing that one to Atlanta as well.   I made the XS with the S collar and the fit & drape is just perfect on me.   My bust is about 35" for reference.    I did get some pima cotton from Louise to make the AST as a summer blouse.    Now that I've got the hang of it, those should go together quickly.

I haven't seen any posts here on SG, other than this topic, about the Puyallup Washington event.    Maybe Louise will have time to post.

[reanns]

Hey Terry - I want this escandar T-shirt top! I even have the linen in my stash.  Do you know of any pattern that could be adjusted to equal this
 top?    ReAnn
http://www.neimanmarcus.com/store/catalog/prod.jhtml?itemId=prod53390207&parentId=cat000025&masterId=cat000019&index=5&cmCat=cat000000cat000001cat000009cat000019cat000025

[marciae]

I'm not Terri - but I could see the ABO top - with size adjustments.  Anxious to see what Terri and Louise come up with.   CUTE T Reann!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I HAVE ABOUT 1 MINUTE...eeek cap lock...now I have 30 seconds! ReAnn, the Eskandar tee is the ABO top with 3"-4" added (per quarter pattern) half way between the neck and shoulder seam. The tee was the original concept for the ABO top, but I didn't think it would be 'understood' in the very large size, so I made it 12" to 16" narrower in circumference for the pattern.

All that is needed to be done is from the shoulder to the hem on the front and back is draw a vertical line and add the amount wanted...same in the front as back and then 'true' up the seam lines...now the neck line doesn't get messed up nor does the sleeve.

I'm off to the show...what I could see has been a wonderful event. Will try to get out a bit today also. I have both Sandy and my former student working in the booth, so we all can get out of the booth from time to time. Sandy and I are teaching at the same time several times ...which is why we needed a their person...also becasue of the number of people...it really helped.

till later, Louise...quick note, sorry for any misspellings

[Terri K]

Good to hear from you Louise!   ReAnn,   I looked at and zoomed in on the photo -  fun top that is a staple in all his collections.    $300 plus tax - right!   Go for it!   When I make knit tops using the ABO top pattern I eliminate the facing and cut out the inch all around, then serge and turn down 5/8" and topstitch about 1/2" from the edge and don't do the mitred vent at the hem.  You'd want to keep the facing and vents for this linen one.   
I've got to press and topstitch my jacket and I'll take some photos. 

[reanns]

Louise - Thank you - got it!  I miss being in Puyallup but off to Pinehurst in a couple of minutes to hit that little white ball around some beautiful landscaping.  Will do the pattern adjustments when I get back next week.

Oh - for all those who asked me about the Peace Corps.  Well, I've been put on a 9 month medical deferment.  Long story.  But - and you just wonder how things like these happen, I was talking to the owner of an eco-tour business in the Bahamas yesterday about one of upcoming women over 50 weeks and he asked if I wanted a job!  So I'm off to Eleuthera for the entire summer.  Hey ladies, bring your machines and when you get tired of sewing you can just walk 10 feet and be in the Caribbean!

ReAnn

[reanns]

PS - and Terry - the next time I spend $300 + tax for a 'little linen T-shirt' you have my permission to admit me to the asylum immediately

ReAnn

[Terri K]

Here's my Of The Moment jacket.   First try in size small.    It's a drapey coating type fabric with an alpaca like face and knit on the other side.  I didn't  interface the facings and I used steam a seam to secure all the facings and hems.  I didn't top-stitch this one because the thread just sinks down into the pile and you can't see it anyway.    If I can find some special top-stitching thread the right color, I can always do that later.

[marciae]

great jacket - I don't know 'when' I'll get around to it!!

I ordered elastic a few days ago and noticed some tweezers to pull out threads while on the web site.  I can't tell you how many times I've looked at Louises notions and never saw those tweezers!!   Anyway I ordered a pair - the sewing gods saw to it that I tried them out this morning!   They are W O N D E R F U L!! (nayy).

[Karendee]

TerriK,

Fantastic jacket. My interfacing came by UPS today, so I'm ready to use my pattern. I hope I have as much success as you. My fabric is a burnout silk from Fabric Mart--beautiful but thin. I assume that the style of the jacket won't be ruined by having a lined jacket. I like your idea of using "double faced" fabric--shows off the lapel beautifully. Enjoy your jacket!

Karen  (Karendee)

[Terri K]

Thank you for the complements -   I have to advise though, Karen,  this isn't a jacket that you line.    The way it's designed, the wrong side of the fabric shows as the lapels flap back.   Your burnout would be lovely in the OTM.   Believe me, if you try to line it you will be driving yourself crazy and it won't look as good.    The way Louise's instructions are, your inside will look as good as the outside.     Louise may have some other comments.

[Karendee]

Terri K,

Thanks for the info. about the jacket/lining. I do love my fabric, so I'll consider the other pattern or some other use for the fabric. It is silver/burnout and that is such a fun look for this spring/summer. Perhaps I'll just make a "floaty" ruana, wrap of large scarf with my silk burnout. But, as a person that likes to buy fabric, I have plenty to make the OTM pattern and will certainly enjoy the results. Again, thanks for the info; you do such a nice job of helping everyone here at the SG site with your hints and pictures. You are very generous with your time.

Karen (Karendee)

[Terri K]

You're very welcome Karen.  On the subject,  I was asking Louise for suggestions for some of the fabrics she had in Tampa.   For example, the white silk with sheer organza square inserts - think wide satin ribbon with organza, in this photo, she suggested the Tabbard - view B of the new pattern.    In the gray group to the right,  the two pieces that look like they are smaller woven ribbons - they have a bit of eyelash too, she also suggested the Tabbard.



If you look at this evening ensemble, the designer uses an organza for the coat over a simple long sheath dress - a burn-out would achieve a similar look

[vtmartha]

Terri K,
 you do such a nice job of helping everyone here at the SG site with your hints and pictures. You are very generous with your time.
Karen (Karendee)

I'll second that, Karen!

[Karendee]

Terri,

Thanks for your suggestions and pictures of Louise's fabrics and the dress and overcoat. They were all lovely.  My burnout has about the same amount of sheer as Louise's white stripe. I hadn't thought about making the tabbard because I just loved the jacket view. But it retrospect, it is a much better match with my fabric. I was trying to combine pattern and fabric that were not compatible with each other. You guided me in the correct direction. My hesitation now is that I don't think my body type is suitable for the tabbard, but I think I'll just go for it. I am quite tall and a plus (on the smaller end of plus) with a 45" bust etc. I assumed that a full busted person wiith wide shoulders needed a more defined top. But if the jacket pattern is suitable---the tabbard should be also. I wear quite a bit of flowing Eileen Fisher etc. so this should do. Excuse my rambling, I'm just thinking and decision-making as I write.

Again, thanks for your help and suggestions.

Karen (Karendee)

[Terri K]

I was upstairs playing around with the tabbard view OTM pattern late this afternoon.   I shortened it about 4" and wanted to use this knit but I don't have enough.    So on to something else...    I vacuumed the sewing room - lots of lint and thread.   Then I pressed a piece of pima cotton shirting with tiny woven black and white stripes intending to make the shorter AST with the short sleeve but I need advice on interfacing.   This is a piece I got from Louise in Tampa so she knows which one it is.    Which color and which one?

[Alice in Bama]

Terri K,
 you do such a nice job of helping everyone here at the SG site with your hints and pictures. You are very generous with your time.
Karen (Karen dee)

I'll second that, Karen!

I also agree she does help everyone out and we do appreciate you thanks Terri

[Terri K]

Thank you Alice and everybody.   I was puttering around in the sewing room until late last night, neglecting my housekeeping chores that took an hour more.  I do lots of sewing planning while I do housework    I wanted to sew another OTM out of another winter fabric - this one that I had been thinking SW Deja Vu wrap.   I'd been looking at the older eskandar catalogs and wondered - why not add a detachable hood with button holes to button onto the jacket, make the right and left fronts so it wraps over more, lengthen it and voila, a great coat.


This is a wool/mohair with a tweed side.   I'd make it tweed (black) side out

Not sure I'll get to it this season because I want to make one out of a spring/summer fabric now 

[mosew]

Louise - if you have a chance - I'm making A Perfect Blouse and I'm to the step of putting the collar stand on. I've pinned at the ends, shoulder and center. There is a little ease that won't be a problem almost everywhere. Except on the front that will have the buttonholes (shoot, without it in front of me, I can't think whether it's right or left front). Anyways, I have way too much shirt to ease into the collar stand between the front and the shoulder seam. I'm wondering if I didn't take a full 1/4" when I stitched at the fold to create a faux placket. But even so, there will still be too much to ease. Is there something else that you've seen a lot of people do wrong here? TIA!

ETA - I looked at it again a day later and, as usual, it's not so bad. I still had a little too much to ease, but I sewed the two collar stands on separately so I could use the feed dogs to ease better. Once the first one was on, I was able to just follow the first stitching and it worked fine. I have a feeling the neck stretched too much in handling, even though I was trying to be careful. And I could have always taken slightly too little in seam allowance at the shoulder. It's linen so it submits pretty well to the easing and pressing it made it give in the rest of the way. I knew I was doing the right thing to walk away But I'm kinda hard headed,  sometimes I forget to 'solve from a distance' 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Well, Sandy and I arrived safely here in Atlanta and will start to put the booth together tomorrow. Very long couple of days with Puyallup last week, redeye home Sunday/Monday morning...get the van...pack the van...fill orders...a few hours of sleep...and drive through the weather today and got here a bit ago. So, I hope to see many of you on Thursday morning.

Dear mosew, the collar band is the same size as the neckline of the garment but the two curves are heading the opposite direction. I always suggest to pin at the front edge, the clip marks, dots and center back. Then clip only the neckline of the garment to make it fit between the different sections of the band. Some fabrics will stretch more than others and can take fewer clips...this might be what happened to you. Sometimes you can stand the collar band straight upright and place the garment flat on a ham and press the garment back into shape...pressing just upto the upright collar band.

Well, it has been a very long couple of days...OK 3 weeks, ever since Tampa....so I am going to try to get some sleep...set up day is always long.  till later, Louise

PS... on Thursday there is going to be an article on Linda Lee's and my sewing retreat in Florida and I think other things related to sewing in 2009...younger sewers, Project Runway influnce, etc. Linda, Amber Eden (the editor from Threads magazine) and I talked to the fashion editor from the Orlando newspaper during the second retreat in Jan. She loved what we were doing so much that she came back the next day to take pictures, then the newspaper send a photographer for more pictures on Sunday and she stayed for hours talking to many of the those attending. I was so excited to have Amber there, she chose Linda's and my retreat for the first one of its kind that she attended. She wanted to see all what went on. I talked to Amber in Puyallup and she is eager to attend again next Jan. I am so honored!

As soon as I know the link to the paper and article I will post it here....now till later, Louise   

 

[mosew]

Thanks Louise. I hope you got some sleep! I can't function well without enough. Which may be why the collar was frustrating me. I followed your wonderful pattern instructions to the letter, matching clips, etc. and it just looked like too much to ease. But walking away from it for a day helped. I eased it in and it looks fine now. Started to do the next step but the kids got home from musical practice early last night - ice storm made for messy driving so they were sent home early.

I'll be anxious to see the article. I love seeing how those outside the sewing field view our obsession/hobby/livelihood 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I know there would be pictures with the article in the newspaper, but the online story didn't have any...sad to say...I will have friends save the paper for when I get home.

http://www.orlandosentinel.com/features/lifestyle/orl-sewing08mar06,0,7090843.story 

I'm off to get ready for the expo today. till later, Louise

[rebells]

Nice article.  It would be nice to see the pictures, too.  I've never watched Project Runway.  As a matter of fact, I've never even looked at the Project Runway thread!  I might have to start.

[Terri K]

Thanks for the link to the article Louise.   I e-mailed it to my aunt in the Maitland area.     Got back from Atlanta last night after driving through thick fog and then rain.   I'm glad I made those two Of The Moment jackets in the coating and the basket weave cashmere because it's not spring weather yet here!   High winds, snow flurries and high of maybe 35 here today 

I posted the photos from the Atlanta Expo on a new flickr set Atlanta Expo CLD booth and SG friends

And, after seeing the Tabard from the Of the Moment pattern on you and Sandy at the Expos, I saw this one on eBay in an embroidered linen, which is basically the Of The Moment with sleeves and wondered if I could use the jacket sleeve to make it look like this.     This would be a great look  if any of you have a sewing machine that can embroider patterns like this.    Escandar only uses on color of thread - keep it simple!

eskandar duster on eBay

[Karendee]

Wow Terri,

Thanks for the pictures; I somewhat feel like I'm spying on the Expo in Atlanta. I so wanted to join the group, so I appreciate the photos. The fabrics in the shots look beautiful; do you remember the shiny lime green bolt featured in several of the shots? Was that vinyl? Polished cotton? That fabric surely caught my eye. We don't always dress in classic conservative colors in the South in the spring and summer. I also appreciated seeing the examples of the Cutting Lines patterns modeled by those of you in the booth.

The fabrics you posted before your trip look lovely. You'll enjoy making each of them.

Karen Dee

[Terri K]

Karen,  I need to add some descriptions to the photos but wanted to get them up.   The green is a coated linen and is TDF.   The quilted fabric next to it is a poly and she had it in hot pink, lime green, and black.   Many women were buying it for totes, handbags and jackets.    It's also great as an extension on the front and sleeves of a coordinating fabric print.   

Update - Just to let you know Karen, Louise was asked that question at the Expo and answered that she doesn't sell fabrics on the website because she gets one of a kind and limited quantities.   She will send you swatches of what you are looking for if you send her a note - example:  I'm looking for light brown pant or jacket weight linen (incl fabric content, type, color(s) with what you're looking for with a self addressed, stamped envelope that she can use to send you the swatches.   That works best for everyone since she's so busy traveling.   If you see something in my photos you might be interested in,  e-mail her to see if it's available and then you can decide how to follow up to order swatches or yardage.   She carries a lot of 100% linen, linen/rayon, rayon, tencel, silks and silk blends, wools and cottons plus interesting synthetic blends.   One woman came the first day and bought yards and yards of her Armani fabrics in the blacks and neutral coordinates.


I went over and snoop shopped at Neiman Marcus Last call right up the road one afternoon and saw a group of coordinates in beige linen with metallic thread woven through it.     

[Karendee]

Terri,

Thanks so much for the additional info. on the fabrics. I though  L.C.'s fabric display was just glorious. I assume you can order that on her website. I've been there several times, but  the fabrics didn"t look like these. But I'm sure it's hard to post all your fabrics. When I ordered a few patterns from Louise, they arrived 1 or 2 days after I ordered; to me, that was fantastic service. The N.M. beige with  woven metallics  sounds wonderful; I notice that metallics are huge for spring and summer. I like that, for I need a little glitz on this "ole gal."

Thanks again for your generous spirit in sharing the event, pictures, and knowledge with me and all of us. I am a long term  fashionista,  fabricnista and fiber artist, but I'm back to garment sewing after a many-year hiatus.

Karen (Karendee)

[Karendee]

I have to report:[/

I sent an email to Louise Cutttings last night because I had a question about her fabrics and could not access her website. Now, here is the amazing thing-------when I checked my computer this AM about noon, there was a most informative, lengthy response from Louise herself. Boy, was I amazed. Just wanted to share with you concerning the positive response I got from a member of our sewing community. Despite a hectic schedule, Louise found time to respond so quickly. I  was impressed.

Karendee

[Linda 75142]

I finished A Subtle Twist today, and I'm really pleased with it.  The fabric is linen/cotton blend.  This photo was taken before I completed buttons/buttonholes.  The instructions were wonderful.  This is not my first Louise pattern to make, but it is the first one with a collar stand.  I had doubts about myself and if I could make it look good.  I'm very happy with my effort.
Thanks Louise!

More photos and detail are at my blog should you want to see more.  Next up for me is A Perfect Blouse.

[Alice in Bama]

I have to report:[/

I sent an email to Louise Cutttings last night because I had a question about her fabrics and could not access her website. Now, here is the amazing thing-------when I checked my computer this AM about noon, there was a most informative, lengthy response from Louise herself. Boy, was I amazed. Just wanted to share with you concerning the positive response I got from a member of our sewing community. Despite a hectic schedule, Louise found time to respond so quickly. I  was impressed.

Karendee

 Yes she like that and If you go to a show  or any where else and meet her you think she and you  had been bedt best freinds for ever at least that how she mad me feel this last week end at the expo My friends thought so too .You've  Got to go nest year start saving
Alice

[Terri K]

Alice,  You're absolutely correct and I'll bet you wasted no time in getting your fabrics prepared for sewing   

Linda,  I am so pleased with my AST that I'm planning a couple in silk and cotton fabrics for summer as well.    The first one is going to be from the apricot silk/linen swatch below.

I had DH take a picture of me in my latest Of The Moment jacket in basketweave cashmere that some of you saw me wearing at the Expo to keep the chill off.    I went to Waechter's fabric shop today for some notions and had him take the picture before we left.    They really liked it.   I cut this one out last Tuesday night and had it finished Wed morning - took me about 2 hours to sew and press it.     I love how easy the mitered corners are for the neck facing and the front turn-over facing.    This is a size small with no alterations.

         

[deb]

Terri, just gorgeous!  I am so envious of your trips to Waechter's.  I'm the one in MD, near Savage Mill, and haven't been to Asheville in years now.     We used to camp at Pisgah during the kids spring break, but alas no money this year.  We had an unexpected expense of having to fly to California for a death in the family, last week. The only bright spot in the whole trip was going to Stone Mountain and Daughter, but when you're traveling with lots of family and one rental car, not much time can be had in a fabric store.  I just love Louise Cutting's designs, and you've inspired me to get sewing again.  Keep posting all the lovely pictures.

[Terri K]

Look what I found on the Neiman Marcus site while perusing the sales -  Link to zoom larger image


Dolce & Gabbana Alpaca Coat with lines like the Of The Moment jacket, just a bit slimmer and longer with a tie closure only.  If you go to the NM page, you can see it has the same drop sleeve.   It's no longer available but sure gives me some more ideas.   I just got my alpaca and wool piece from Michaels yesterday that I bought to make another one of these but longer.    Of course I'm not 6 feet tall with 5" heels like the D&G model 

[Karendee]

Beautiful jackets Linda and Terri,

These patterns are absolutely wonderful-stylish, fun to make, and easily changed for a new look (per Alpaca design at NM.) I'm so glad this site introduced me to these smaller pattern companies. I really like dealing with (or hearing you all deal with) the actual designers/company owners. Smaller, independent pattern companies off many sewing benefits, in my opinion. Keep up the good work; you all look great.

After seeing pictures of the lucious fabrics from the Atlanta Expo, I was disappointed to learn that they could not be ordered online (Louise Cutting.) I had my eye on the vibrant lime green linen with a shine finish in Terri's pictures. Oh well, she who hesitates is lost.

Karen (Karendee)

[Karendee]

I don't know how to edit, but the statement above was to be OFFER not off.

Thanks
Karendee