Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[Terri K]

Dear Louise,  I need some advice on a collar draft for the A Subtle Twist shirt.   

I posted a photo of my draft of a scrunch neck collar (4" tall with two buttons and no interfacing so it "scrunches" down on the neck) that I used the AST collar stand bottom to draft on my Blog - Sew Terri .    It's too short around the neck.   I used the same circumference as the collar stand and added a seam allowance at the opposite end of the fold side.   

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I had a bit of time yesterday to answer...but could not get in here??? I will be back later today...I am now 'free' of carpenter/painter/tree people et al. So the outside errands have piled up...including getting the larger orders (read...over 13oz. They have to go to the post office and actually given to a post office person....but, this same package can not be given to my post man who delivers my mail???)...anyway, I will be back to answer your questionTerri at that time...

Without getting in here and still be kept house bound, I had some fun checking out different things on e-bay yesterday. I found a piece of china that was done for a limited time and has never shown up on any of the replacement china companies on the internet. I really had time to kill!!!

till later this afternoon.  Louise

[LyndaC]

Louise, I find it interesting that someone with your many talents enjoys tracking the elusive piece of china on ebay.  Perhaps this is your release?  Ironic, because sewing is mine!

By the way, I get compliments on the 3 layer silk blouse.  It looks like a soft cloud and feels weightless.  Thank you for letting us benefit from your talents.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

OK, I finally have a minute to get back to you here...Terri, I checked out the photo that you have on your blog...I think the curve on the goldenrod collar is too curvy...What about using the collar from ABO. It is (I believe 3" high) and I have measured the Eskandar in my travels and I checked my notes today for some of the different measurements I have taken in the past and the collar on scrunch neck shirts are either 4 or 4 1/2" high. the easiest way to extend the height of the ABO collar is along the un-notched side is add an additional seam allowance...the collar already has 5/8" seam allowance. So that would make the collar 5/8" higher...or you could add an 1" completely along the top of the collar for additional height.

Now lay the ABO front tissue and back tissue over the AST blouse front and back and redraw the AST neckline to make it look like the ABO neckline. Match center front lines on the shirts and the vertical center back lines.

Along both patterns, draw the stitching lines along the shoulder seams...front and back. And draw the stitching lines around the neck lines of both patterns...front and back. Where the lines cross at the shoulder seam/neck seam...there point is where you want to 'register' one pattern piece on top of the other. so you have the shoulder point and the center front matching, now you can draw the neck line from one pattern onto the other...so the same on the back at the shoulder/neck.

I would make a area mock up in fabric to make sure everything is fitting right. You know the ABO will be long enough, because the collar overlaps and buttons. You will need to as in the Eskandar blouse you have on your blog pt at least 2 buttons for such a high neck...don't put any interfacing in the collar. any if you are thinking of wearing it closed all the time, a clear snap really needs to be put right at the intersection of the collar into the front of the garment...as the collar scrunches down it has a tendency to separate right at this point.

Keep us posted to your progress.

And to Linda C...I have no idea why I was even looking on ebay for my china...and then to my surprise, a lady had only the one piece that she used in a display...and it was never used and there is onlythe one...it was just created for a year...i know the china maker and he called them 'nut' bowls...I said they make great ice cream bowls and the next year he created an ice cream bowl...but it was a totally different measurement...and seeing I have 7...gee do we want to take a guess where the eight one went....I believe that was Tootsie...pushing it off the counter with her big fat......

till later, Louise 

[Terri K]

Thank you for taking the time to figure that out for me Louise.   I'll print out your instructions and make a muslin out of that handkerchief linen and let you know how it turns out. 

Another question -  The shirtdress with a safari look is a classic style.   So..... I was playing around with my In The Trenches jacket pattern pieces to see how to lengthen View B for a spring/summer shirtdress.   I think the back overlay with the pleat is a fabulous design element for a dress too.   I'm thinking two larger pockets with flaps on each front side. 

To lengthen,  I put the skirt pattern pieces with the waistline over that of the front and backs and it looks like a good line to use    I was so pleased with how my casing turned out on the striped linen Heading for Adventure duster/jacket (photo on right) that I made last summer that I will use that technique again.   Please let me know what you think.    I've got a piece of quality cotton with a bit of lycra that is just the right weight for this. 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I was playing around with my In The Trenches jacket pattern pieces to see how to lengthen View B for a spring/summer shirtdress.

Sorry I missed your question. Yes, what you did for the ITT dress version will work great, and I have seen them everywhere in summer R-T-W. You might change to a regular cuff instead of the French one or not cut a cuff or placket on the sleeve at all and just hem it...that way it can be rolled up and look more casual.

Give your self a bit more length than you think you will need, the drawstring always pulls up the skirt more than you think.

Below are the links to the Handweavers website. Even if you aren't able to attend, there is some great eye candy at the 'Leaders' link...to see what these women (I can't remember if there are any men this year as Leaders) are doing.

Some of my favorite magazines are FiberArts, American Crafts, American Style, and Ornament...all have some of the most beautiful photographs...and they all give where some art fairs are around the country. 


http://www.weavespindye.org/pages/?p=convergence2008/designchallenge.html&loc=3-91-00 will get you to the Designer Fashion Challenge

http://www.weavespindye.org/pages/?p=convergence2008/LeaderSelectionProcess.html&loc=3-86-00&loc=3-14-00 This will take you to the Leader (teachers) page along with their artwork....some really wonderful eye candy...items you don't normally see at sewing expos.

http://www.weavespindye.org/pages/?p=convergence2008/daypass1.html&loc=3-101-00 day admission.

OK, I've played enough...back to work for me...Louise

[Linda Dean]

Louise,
I can't wait to see your design.  When will you be able to post a picture?  My SIL weaves and I talked to her about the event.  The big problem is she is afraid to fly.  Maybe some day it will be closer enough to Cincinnati to drive.
It looks like you are going to be really busy this summer.  I wish I could go to Bernina University.  I went one year when I worked for a Bernina dealer.  I will see you in Chicago.  I will probably drive up on Wednesday.
Linda

[blue mooney]

Louise, I'll be seeing you in Arlington! Glad you will be there.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Robyn,

I have been packing everything I can think of to take to Arlington including 2 new interfacings. I don't usually bring them, but there might even be a kitchen sink under everything once there. Still have to price some fabric that has come in....maybe a few yards might not get to Arlington...some nice stuff coming your way....but don't worry, Linda, i will have plenty at ASG.

Sandy and I packed everything we though we could for the next 6 sewing venues on Friday...we still have to divided up the traveling wardrobe. They will have to play leap frog to get to all of the events...seeing some are driving and some are shipping. More than anything else it is the scheduling to make sure everything gets to the places on time or even to the places at all, like the box I lost in shipping last year getting to the ASG convention. Of course it was everything to run a business....in a strange city, with no transportation to go and find anything...and I was teaching all day and Sandy was setting up the booth...I finished and she said I can't find.....oh well, stuff has happened  in my life I have had to learn to deal with it, you zig when you can't zag!

Linda, I will have the new kiwi green 'muslin' at ASG...not sure if I will have any of the other 3 new garments done, but we will see. I got to cut out 2 garments late yesterday and will get sewing in a minute...it just feels so good to go and just sew. Not samples for filming that I will never see again, garments, and for me!

Well, I am off, I'll check back later to see what you are all up to sewing...I have been answering some emails privately about fitting, changing the patterns, etc. Oh, speaking of changing the pattern. I have put the scrunch neck, similar to the one on ABO, which is 3" high, but made it 4" high and it will have no interfacing in the collar so it 'scrunches' down. But, I am using the AST pattern, made it 25" long...that is halfway between the short and long version in the pattern.  I am making a MD in the garment. I looked on eBay under the Eskandar area....I love those ladies there...they measure the garments for you and many times in the right places...so I now I know long, wide, high, measurements need as a jumping off spot.

I'll keep you posted to my progress. till later, Louise       

[Terri K]

Louise, thank you for your advice on extending the In The Trenches (ITT) pattern to a dress.   Here's a photo of an AKRIS Drawstring cotton dress from Neiman Marcus - on sale for $1,300.   This dress and others I'd seen gave me the idea to lengthen the ITT. The proportions are similar to a lengthened ITT view B with the short sleeves rolled up.   The AKRIS double drawstring collars are interesting but just thought they were distracting here.    As I said, I'd use the casing/drawstring element of the ITT.   I might copy the drawstring collar detail on another project though    The way the larger one falls over the back reminded me of the back overlay of the ITT.   

[Linda Dean]

Louise,
I know you will have plenty of fabric to tempt me in Chicago.  You always have the best fabric.  I hope to be wearing some of the fabric I bought from you last year at ASG.
Linda

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Linda, you did get some beauties....that one outfit that you were thinking of doing with the taupe leather trim will be outstanding.

I did get in about 15 new pieces yesterday...hmmm...some yardage might not make it to Chicago...or even Arlington...it might not even make it in the van!

I finished the AST with the scrunch neck/collar yesterday. Still have to sew the buttons on...was to be last evening...oh well. Also finished a new tabbard from OTM and a pair of One Seams....gee, first things I have been able to sew with out illustrating and writing the instructions in quite a while.

I just finished updating names for the Jan 15-18 retreat...its full and the other one has only a few slots left.

Well, back to work, this morning so i can go and sew again this afternoon...I'm on a roll! Gaud, I love to just sew!

till later, Louise 

 

[Carole]

    Louise is coming to Atlanta in October!

[lakestitcher]

Where in Atlanta? When??? I looked at her schedule on her site and don't see it.   
Details please, that's a short drive for me.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am doing a one day 'Sit & Sew' on Sat. Aug 23. with the ASG. I don't know the location...but the ASG might be able to help you. You might be able to get more info by contacting them at:   atlanta@asg.org  or look at the last event on my schedule page http://www.fabriccollections.com/schedule/schedule.html

I don't know if I will fly and ship products or drive and bring goodies...I'm working on the next 6 events before that...there there is San Jose also before Atlanta. Ooh, forgot Novi...gaud...back to work for me, till later, Louise 

[Carole]

Poor Louise:  you are going to be at the Kennesaw Community Center, off Highway 41 North in Kennesaw and all I know is turn at the Bruster's ice cream!  There is also a BB&T bank on the other corner; I'll check it out before you come.  Do you have transportation?

[lakestitcher]

So it's not in October?? Darn, I couldn't do the one in August. 

[sewingbeth]

Hi Everyone!

Any one attending the ASG convention in Chicago, remember to pick up a free kit to create the Anti Ouch Pouch, over the shoulder pillow,  designed by Deon Maas of Peoria's ASG for donation/use for recovering breast cancer surgery patients.   

Our chapter assembled 500 of these kits with instructions so you can make more to pass along in your own towns.  Pass along this info.   This is truly a wonderful effort and has been designated the national service project for ASG. 


Sewingbeth who also loves Louise and her retreats and patterns

[Karendee]

Carole,

That sounds wonderful about Aug. 23. Can anyone attend if we join Atlanta ASG I have been trying to decide which chapter I wanted to join (Nashville, Knoxville, or Atlanta) since Chattanooga doesn't have a chapter. I guess this helps me decide. I need to find out about joining, now.

Thanks for the info.

Karen

[makeupmaven]

Karen,
Why don't you and your sewing friends start an ASG chapter in your area?

[nanflan]

That sounds wonderful about Aug. 23. Can anyone attend if we join Atlanta ASG I have been trying to decide which chapter I wanted to join (Nashville, Knoxville, or Atlanta) since Chattanooga doesn't have a chapter. I guess this helps me decide. I need to find out about joining, now.

In general, an ASG member can attend any meeting and receive an ASG discount on the pricing. If you don't want to join this time, they may offer pricing for non members as well. Of course, you will want to double-check with the sponsoring chapter but this is the general practice in my area.

If you do wish to join ASG, it may be possible that Knoxville (closest?), may have a Neighborhood Group serving Chattanooga. Or Atlanta may have a NG in far north GA. This is what chapters do sometimes in order to foster and support a new group until it's strong enough to stand on its own as a separate chapter.

[Karendee]

Thanks to all of you for the excellent advice. Actually, my husband also suggested starting a local ASG chapter, until I told him that I know absolutely no one (except online friends) that sew. Quilting has a fairly large community here, but they have their own association. But I will check for the Neighborhood Groups serving Chattanooga. Also, I don't mind driving to any of the cities I mentioned for a meeting or activity. I'm not working and have the time and energy to travel. I will follow up on all your suggestions; I will also attend Louise Cutting is August.

Nanflan and Makeupmaven, I appreciate your help. MUMaven, tell me the origin of your screen name? Are you a make-up stylist? Just curious.

Karend

[Linda Dean]

Karend, You can just joing ASG and not really belong to a Chapter.  I think I saw a one person Chapter on the master list.  You can also read all the Chapter newsletters on the ASG website. 
Linda

[makeupmaven]

Karen,
i am a makeup artist and have a studio in my home.  I work with women of all ages and walks of life.  My products are culled from 12 private label manufacturers.  It's very rewarding work.  Thanks for asking.
Gail

[Karendee]

Linda,

Thanks for the info. about ASG; I didn't realize you could be a member at large.
Gail,

I bet you find that such an interesting field. Having your own product line sounds very entrepreneurial. 

Karen

[sdBev]

Karend, You can just joing ASG and not really belong to a Chapter.  I think I saw a one person Chapter on the master list.  You can also read all the Chapter newsletters on the ASG website. 
Linda

That's interesting.  I belonged to the Black Hills ASG chapter and we disbanded because the home office said we didn't have enough members to fill all the officer positions.  I never went to the meetings anyway.  It was a 4 hour drive one way and the meetings were always at night. Just couldn't stand the idea of driving home at 3-4 AM in the morning.

[Karendee]

No, a return trip at 3-4 AM would not be my "cup of tea" either. Sorry this didn't work out for you.

Karen

[fiberfan]

Don't assume you have to have an ASG chapter close to have a neighborhood group in your area.  The Utah ASG chapter started as a neighborhood group of a California chapter.

Joanne

[sdBev]

Don't assume you have to have an ASG chapter close to have a neighborhood group in your area.  The Utah ASG chapter started as a neighborhood group of a California chapter.

Joanne

OK, but how do I find out about the neighborhood groups? I've let my membership lapse.

[kath]

Go to asg.org and check neighborhoods by State.  Contact the closest chapter and you can find the neighborhood groups from them

[Terri K]

I used the ABO top pattern and lengthened it into a dress using a meaty jersey knit (gold in photo below).   I've made a lot of ABO tops in knits and I love the look.  I got this idea from a top I bought at Target - make two of the little tabs and use them on the sleeve like this



I'll post photos when I'm finished.    I'm making another top using the same knit so my machine is set up for a wide 3 thread overlock.   Then I'll re-thread the machine for the cover-stitched hems.

[sdBev]

Go to asg.org and check neighborhoods by State.  Contact the closest chapter and you can find the neighborhood groups from them

Just wanted to say thank you for the information.

[Karendee]

Me too.

Terri, the color of your dress is beautiful. Let us see a picture when you're finished. It's always good to hear from you; you teach so much from your thorough posts.

Karen

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear all,

We finally stopped someplace in Louisiana last evening...this will make the drive (poor Sandy) shorter today to Dallas. I have been given some wearable art boutiques names and addresses to visit today before we finally arrive at the venue later this afternoon. In our 13 hour drive yesterday we talked but upcoming designs, retreats, scheduling...that was a long talk....just trying to get everything done and at the right time.

I received a cool assignment yesterday for Threads Magazine for an upcoming issue...will let you know more about it in time...when I know more about it.

Well, it is time to crawl into the big white rolling fabric store. till later, Louise

[Linda 75142]

I got my e-mail about the new DVD and preordering info.  Woo-hoo!!!!  Plus, I'm going to Martha Pullen on Thursday and will get to visit Louise!