Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[Alice in Bama]

Terri,

Let me echo the sentiments of your long list of admirers. Your outfit is perfect; as was the one at the arboretum. You have really  coordinated your wardrobe with the Cutting Line and SW patterns with you luxury fabrics. Great job!

LyndaC,

Thanks for the info. about the fabric store. I have heard about Sirs, but didn't know if that was the shop that Alice (from Ala) was talking about. I bet it was. Anyway, thanks for answering.

Karen (Karendee)

yep that the one I was talking about
Alice in Ala

ps lyndaC from there too

[Alice in Bama]

Diana, thanks for posting that.   I hadn't thought about it but you're right.   Just to let you all know,  I  shortened View A by 2 inches.

Terri

  You did a great job on your jacket as usual hope see more sewing project soon you are such an sewing inspiration to all of us

Joanier
  hope ever thing going well at your house we here about all your sewing project too.

Alice

[lessalt]

Terri K - Add my to your admirers. Your outfit is classic but modern at the same time. I like that it fits so nicely over your Now shirt. What sizes did you use for each?

[Terri K]

Leslie,   I was just admiring (again) your faux persian lamb Inventor Shirt/coat on the SW gallery the other day     That silk Now Shirt is a medium but I only did a 3/4" turn up hem because it's too short.   That was my first one.  The AST jacket is an XS with a size small collar stand and collar.

[Alice in Bama]

Terri
  You took your flickers off how are we supposed to see your pretty clothes I understand about the seals I have a problem with the dolphins that are getting Slater too and the mantis [spelling] 
Buck to sewing
Do ya think i could use the otm pattern for a beach cover up.
what kind of fabric would you use???

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I just returned last night from the International Textile Show. I was buying fabric and buttons for the upcoming shows this summer. I am having one vendor send the fabric I ordered directly to the 4 Women of Design event at the end of this month. The rest will come to me to show at the Martha Pullen Sewing Expo in Arlington, TX in June, Handweavers Guild event in Tampa also in June. More will be coming for the ASG Conference in July in Chicago and for the first time I will be taking 2 booths at Bernina University in Kansas in July with fabric and buttons.

I tried to read quickly through the posts here and I think all questions have been answered. I also think the your outfit looks great Terri. What a pretty look, I bet you got tons of complements that evening.

Well, tons of mail to go through...and at least 5 faxes while I have been gone for the retreat with Susan in the fall. If my count is right, we are up to 14 and the cut off is 27. I only sent out the e-mail about 10 days ago. 

When my head comes up from all the paper work, I will report on colors, print designs, and textures I saw looking forward to the fall. Till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Hi Louise and welcome back.

Alice,  If I sewed a cover-up using the OTM jacket pattern, I would lengthen it and make slits like the long vest view.   I've seen attractive cover-ups in stretch terry using the OTM vest pattern shape with the dropped shoulder (no sleeve), sewn up the front (put the V on the fold) and wearing it either way - putting the V in the back and adding a casing with elastic so it blouses from the slit on down.   I wonder how easy it would be to add sleeves to that vest?  Louise, what do you think?   If you have the Heading for Adventure pattern, that duster would be a very nice cover-up in a light fabric with the long side slits,  if you made the long one, it would serve dual duty over a summer pant and top in the cool evenings.    Remember those linens with the open stripe design?   That would be nice too.    Anybody else have thoughts?

Oh and regarding the manatees,  the State of FL was actually trying to take them off the endangered list last fall, but after a huge public outcry, they are now still on the endangered list and continue to be protected.   I hope that reminded the politicians why people visit and live in Florida vs corporate influence buying, i.e. political contributions.    Off my soap-box for now.

[Alice in Bama]

TERRI,
  YES  I have Louise Heading "out for adventure "  along with every other one she made except for the one that was out of print when I started buying them.   i know i am a groopiee  I got some time to think about the fabric- I've thought about linen except for the wrinkling problem .
Throwing it in a bag to walk down to the peer if we ever get it rebuilt after Mr Ivin game through.a few years ago  with Rick back in collage dont know when he will get around to fixing it .
Alice

[Terri K]

Alice, I figured you would.    I added to my last post about using the open vest type pattern (from the Of The Moment) as a cover-up.   The ones I'd seen were pull over the head with the V intended to be in the back.   Same shape with a casing.   So you'd make the front opening more of a "V" and lay it on the fold.     Just hem the sides of the arms the same and the slits/miters. 

I'm sure not thinking bathing suits today.   It's 46 with a chilly rain      It was a breezy 50 this morning but temp has gone down since.    I'm wearing my cozy, fuzzy OTM in the house!    Thinking about what to wear to the Stitch Cafe at Waechter's this evening - something warm!

[Terri K]

If you're on the mailing list, you should have gotten an e-mail about a sewing vacation/workshop in Tulsa OK end of July with both Linda Lee and Louise.    There's probably more information on either of the websites.  Here's the outfit I wore yesterday combining the Sewing Workshop and CLD patterns.    It was a cool, rainy day so this was perfect - the cashmere Of The Moment and the stretch wool pants from the Mimosa pattern that I made when that pattern was issued.   If you were in Atlanta, you saw me wearing this jacket since it was also cool at times!    It was so easy that I cut it out the night before I left and sewed, pressed and finished in about two hours - before 11 am the next day.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Terri, the outfit is beautiful.  You have done such a great job...I know you got great reviews at the Stitch Cafe. 

I have been busy answering emails today from the newsletter I sent out this morning and trying to get the blog working...granted the blog is working...it is....can I work it!!!??? Webboy just left and and showed me what to do. Now he has to take down the one on the 'What's New Page' and link the new one to what he has been getting to work for me. Now, I have to put up some blogs so I know what I am doing....I can post and so can you post back...and I will be able to post pictures and from time to time put up secret sales...so once I get the hang of it...you will have to check back often. 

I think we only have 2 or 3 spots left in the Oct Retreat with Susan Khalje. Well, I am off to eek try to post. till later, Louise...also my boy Twinkie has wanted to help during this whole post.

[Baltosew]

Well, Louise, you and Webboy have done it again.  The blog looks great!  I'm sure lots of us will find it as wonderful as your posts here.  Congratulations!   

[Terri K]

Thank you Louise!   A question came up Saturday when my friend was visiting.   She has a piece of double face, basketweave linen exactly like the Eileen Fisher jacket (they call it a double weave) on the left (see photos) that she bought from you at one of the Expos.   We were examining the jackets at the shop in Biltmore Village that sells Eileen Fisher jackets that were finished using this triple stitched, raw edge effect (best seen on the white one).   What a wonderful technique for the facings and collars just sandwiched wrong sides together, stitched and then left raw.    The question is which of your patterns would this technique be most effective for that double face linen - or any similar fabric for that matter?   I know if the By Popular Demand jacket is used, we'd cut off the facing and sandwich WS together.   I was thinking that the OTM would be fun or even the Anything But Ordinary.
 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

So many patterns can be used in the double faced fabric...interesting...I really hunted down this linen at market this time. I had is several seasons ago ...in fact, Terri, I think it was in one of the pictures you took at either Tampa or Atlanta of the OTM jacket. It is the olive green/chocolate brown linen. I clean finsihed the edges, but it could be done raw with the tripple stitch around the outside edge. Now that deconstruction is a little more main stream the double face fabric should be wonderful.

Not quite sure when the fabric will be in...but that is what the new blog will be for...yeah!!!

I was working  to get last minute orders out before leaving...and pulling out everything I have warm for my trip to Worcester for the upcoming Sewing Expo. I have also been working on a big project for Threads and Bernina...can't tell yet...too soon, but will keep you posted. This too has kept me really busy. I got almost everything crossed off my list today, but webboy took more time teaching this old gal how to write and send the blog. Now I had to add things to tomorrow list...one is get all my class samples back in their right groups.

The big thing is 3 cover illustrations for new pattern envelopes...so that will be first thing tomorrow.   

Getting back to your question about which patterns for deconstrction sewing...the FTA skirt, with the panels overlapping and top stitched. the SIH long sleeve shell...having fun with the neckline and the bias...the long vertical seams on the sleeves in a lapped consruciton. Even the vest from LIM, not doing anything around the outside edge except stitching it 3 times...there is no side seams...it would take longer to cut that to sew! Even AST with just the mandrin collar raw and stitched along with the front raw and stitched...as the jacket/shirt would roll open the other color would show. Make the sleeves long and roll up to show the color. I still have a few pieces of the double sided linen in my stash...I wonder if it is too late to sew tonight...yeah ...till later...little man is back looking longingly at the keyboard...hmmm 

[LyndaC]

Terri, great to see your creative outfits, but I have a question for those of you who are able to time how quickly you make garments.

Do you have cats? 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi all, just finished the Worcester Sewing Expo last evening, packed 8 boxes to head to different parts of the country and will be heading home today. About 10-12 garments headed to Threads, and the rest of the garments are for my trunk show in Sacramento at 4 Women of Design.  I will have some pressing to do when I get to those locations with the way everything was crammed in the boxes.   

Something I have been working on, but couldn't say just yet is a new Tips and Techniques DVD and am doing in conjunction with Threads magazine. I have had to do the 'step-outs' those are the techniques sewn 'just so for' and then the next section sewn or cut, etc....this takes so much time. I also wanted to get the new patterns drafted so I could have it on the DVD. I will start to film next month and will keep you up to speed on my progress. When they are available, I'll let you know. 

Well, we have to get ourselves together to catch the flight to Florida. till later, Louise

[Linda 75142]

  OH BOY!! a DVD coming!  Can't wait!

[Karendee]

Louise,

Thanks for the update. The DVD sounds wonderful; I hear you are such a fine teacher. I'm really anxious to attend your WS/retreat to be held in Ashville, NC , Oct. 26-29. This will be my first official sewing lesson/workshop since 7th grade Home Ec. I bet lots off things  have changed. I hear you are dynamic and my teacher was really listless at best.       What funny memories I have of her making the class of girls stand in line to show her one  completed stitch at a time, especially since I been sewing several years by then. Oh well, I'm looking forward to it all.

Karen (Karendee)

[Alice in Bama]

OH BOY!! a DVD coming!  Can't wait!

yea yea yea I be saving my money I can't Wait either
Alice

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I finished the last 'step-out' sample for the DVD yesterday. I fly to CT mid May to film. I am off to 4 Women of Design this morning in Sacramento. When I get back next week, only one day home and off to Cleveland to teach for the weekend. I will have about 10 days home to sew the samples for another Sue Hausmann America Sew's show and a Martha Pullen 'can't remember the name' show two shows worth of samples) that I have to film both later in May that will air later this year. So different samples for all.

I want to sew a real garment...someday....I'm outta' here...till later, Louise

[Ann C]

Knowing Louise and having sat in her seminars several times, you can bet it will be great!  I've learned more good techniques from her patterns and seminars -  it will be good to get more on her DVD!  Can't wait, Louise!

[adab]

Hello,  Louise said she was filming for America Sews amd a Martha Pullen show.   What stations would be carrying these shows?  Would love to watch them !

   

[RED]

drichards,
  They air on PBS.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am off in a few minutes to catch the flight to Cleveland...have been home less than 24 hours from 4 women of design...great to see many of you there...wonderful last day bus trip to San Francisco to about 6 different fabric shops and gallerys.

In the middle of all this I'm working on the next 2 patterns...the trouble is, I have 1 of the 2 garments from each drafted and have to get the second one drafted before they can move forward.

After returning home from Cleveland, I have a week to get the samples from Martha's and Sue's shows done...and then maybe draft next weekend...eek time...gotta run. Louise

[Karendee]

Louise,

You are one busy lady, but we all enjoy the fruits of your labor. I am scheduled for your 3-day workshop in Ashville in Oct. and am I excited.  I keep hearing of your excellent teaching methods, and I'm ready to "soak up" some knowledge. Thank you for keeping us informed on this post.

Karen

[janey]

Louise - I am a serious lurker and a serious Louise fan.  I am a garment sew-er and not a quilter, however, I 'dabble' in quilting projects once in awhile.  I saw a simple pieced tote in the April issue of McCall's Quilting magazine and since I had some great Moda brown, orange, and teal dotted fabrics to use in this piecing, I decided to try it.  No problem.  The problem came when I needed to press 1" wide bias strips (60" long) (6 different strips 1" x 60") raw edges meeting and then press the strip in half again - making a 1/4" wide strip which I was then to sew. (the stips will be braided together for the handles) The first one was a disaster, even using my bias tape maker.  There had to be an easier way to do this !  Finally, I thought of my Steam-a-seam! Because of Louise, I have plenty on hand!  Even though I have the older model of the bias tape maker, it was easy enough to guide the steam-a-seam.  Perfect!    Thank you, Louise! 

Now, back to lurking.

Janey

[MsSewCrazy]

I have questions about sizing

First is for the SIH top.  Since I have a narrow chest and broad shoulders, going by the bust measurement never works for me.  I made a "muslin" in a size medium/large awhile ago but the shoulders were too tight. This brought up questions about the shoulder/armhole seams.  Where exactly should the armhole/shoulder seam sit?  On the edge of the shoulder like a normal sleeve?  It is not a drop shoulder like your other patterns, right?  It looks like the seams hit in the center of the shoulder in the drawing but that must be wrong since that is what I was going for in my muslin.

My other question has to do with where the jackets & tops are designed to hit on your body as to length.  Where is the ABO jacket designed to hit on the hip?  Since I am 5'9" + I always have to lengthen.  I made the P & P points blouse, which I love and would like to wear, but it turned out just a tad too short.  It is hard for me to determine how long I want an item until after I am wearing it for a bit.  Help.

Thank you
Nancy

I realized after I posted this that the high hip needs to be clarified for me.  I read in one place the waist is at the top of your hip bone.  Well my waist is about 3" above that.  I might have a long waist but it does not look like it on my body. Or maybe it is a short waist. Anyway my hips are "low slung" if that helps.  That might be because of my height. Oh well. I am not sure this helps.

[Alice in Bama]

Hey Nancy,
  I am not Louise or am i any expert be any stretch of  the imagenation but Louise told me her patterns or base on the average height of a women being 5ft 5 I also am 5:9 so I feel your pain I usual Lengthen my patterns about 4 inches if this is any help I am sure Louise can help us better I Will love to here what she has to say about it it been an issue with me for a very long time that one of the reason I love to sew

Alice

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Dear all,

I finished filming the DVD yesterday evening and will be traveling back to Florida later today. As I understand, it will be ready early July. It was an interesting process of filming after doing short segments for TV sewing shows over the past 6 or 7 years. 

Sorry I have not been here to help, so lets see about answering some questions. Janey, I'm glad S-A-S came to your rescue...please don't stay a lurker...i need all the help I can get!

for the SIH top.  Since I have a narrow chest and broad shoulders, going by the bust measurement never works for me.  I made a "muslin" in a size medium/large awhile ago but the shoulders were too tight. This brought up questions about the shoulder/armhole seams.  Where exactly should the armhole/shoulder seam sit?  On the edge of the shoulder like a normal sleeve?  It is not a drop shoulder like your other patterns, right?  It looks like the seams hit in the center of the shoulder in the drawing but that must be wrong since that is what I was going for in my muslin.

In the Stars in Heaven the shoulder seam is high on the top of the shoulder...it actually 'cut in' along the shoulder line. It is not a drop shoulder, but it is still based on the kimono draft. Lay the tissue front of the garment on your cutting table. Measure from the center front at the neck edge to the tip of the shoulder, then measure it on your self...where does it hit? It might have been better to make the LG all the way down to give you the width across your shoulders. At the underarm where it curves into the side seam can be scooped higher to get a closer fit here if you would like. Hope this helps a bit.   

My other question has to do with where the jackets & tops are designed to hit on your body as to length.  Where is the ABO jacket designed to hit on the hip?  Since I am 5'9" + I always have to lengthen.  I made the P & P points blouse, which I love and would like to wear, but it turned out just a tad too short.  It is hard for me to determine how long I want an item until after I am wearing it for a bit.  Help.

I realized after I posted this that the high hip needs to be clarified for me.  I read in one place the waist is at the top of your hip bone.  Well my waist is about 3" above that.  I might have a long waist but it does not look like it on my body. Or maybe it is a short waist. Anyway my hips are "low slung" if that helps.  That might be because of my height. Oh well. I am not sure this helps.

 

For the P&P length, you want to measure you from your shoulder seam, close to your ear down over your bust point to where you would like the hem to stop on your body. Do this in front of a mirror. Now measure the pattern, make sure you are placing the back yoke over the front of the pattern and measure from the shoulder line. Once you get the front measurement, make sure if you legthen the front do the same in the back.

It is rather a mater of where you want to make the garment finish rather than your hip bone placement is located.

Well, I better get packed and on my way back to the airport. Maybe I might fine a fabric store or two on my way. 'Threads' wanted to have an extra day to film, if needed, but we just kept working and got done, so I have all day to play. We filmed two days for about 8 hours each that will be turned into a 70+ minute DVD. 

I am home for about 5 days and then travel to AL to film with Martha Pullen for two segments on her show and then the following week with Sue Hausmann in OH for her show...another reason I have not been here for you all, I had to do all new samples for the different shows and in various stopping points. till later, Louise

[MsSewCrazy]

Thanks for the answers.
I need some more help (of course  ) 
After studying "Cutting Across the Country in Style" I became inspired to put together a capsule wardrobe. One of the pieces will be a version of the Points top with a bound collar. I am using the P & P Points and SIH neckline.  To make the muslin, I morphed a woven top from the Points and Pleats and the Stars in Heaven patterns.    I started with the points blouse but made it a pullover by cutting the center front on the fold line and eliminating the yoke and back pleat.  Since I do not want a collar on my final version, I used the SIH bound neck edge on this top to test it.  I have a pair of denim blue "linen" one-seams and was looking to make a top to match so decided to make my muslin to match the pants.  This blue top is not part of the wardrobe plan.

My capsule wardrobe top will be button front with a bound collar (Olive linen with black buttons) based on my morphed Points top.   This is where I need help.  I am not sure how to merge the bound collar into the button front (using Points blouse).  I am not sure how to roll the bound edge over the placket since there are so many layers in the binding.  Or perhaps I should have the placket come all the way to the top and the binding butt  up against the placket? With so much fabric in the binding I am not sure this will be very attractive.  Any help in that direction will be appreciated.

And a capri question...I am making carpi One-seams out of black linen.  I took Louise's class on One-seams a while ago and remember capris that were darted or pleated at the bottom hem but cannot find my notes.  I seem to remember her showing some black linen capris.   If I remember correctly, the darts were 6" long and about 1" apart.  Is this right?  I also remember something about the darts being 10" long but maybe that was in pant legs.  Anybody know?   Was there also ones that had pleats at the hem instead of darts and I am confusing them?  I really wish I could find my notes.

The rest of the plan is one more pair of One-seams in the olive mystery fabric, a  simple twin set out of a black/gold/olive/rust paisley knit, and a simple mint green slit neck tee made from Siltex cotton interlock.  I am thinking of making some jewelry to match.  I am really having fun with this.  I would post the drawing I did of my plan but cannot find the information on how to post pictures.  TIA for any help offered. 
Florida Nancy

[MsSewCrazy]

I forgot.  Louise, will you be at the Surface Design Conference in Tampa that is happening soon? If so, is there anyway I can meet you over there to purchase patterns or booklets?  I cannot see spending $300 + to get in just to but a few items.  Sorry.     Or am I mistaken.

Florida Nancy

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I am working in between working in the kitchen drafting the next 2 patterns (2 garments and 2 garments) and working on my laptop in the diningroom with my protable printer...keeping the cats behind baby gates...not happy are they and answering questions for the carpenter and painters for the new sets of French doors...yes, they stared at 7am Sunday morning...have to get it in between the rain...dry for a month and now we are in for it every day.


So, until my router blows me off the internet again...to far away and too many walls....hence, why the laptop in no longer in the kitchen also...I will try to answer your questions both here and will take the One Seam question over to there

I've put an e-mail to the powers to be at HGA about general admission. I looked completely through the brochure yesterday afternoon and saw nothing about daily admission...for some reason, I think I asked a long time ago about it and they said yes there was daily admission, but I want to be sure, so many of you who live in the greater Florida area don't need to make a needless trip. i have asked for the cost, times and days it would be open. From what I have heard in the past the booths are really great...many vendors you don't see are 'regular' shows. Plus, this event only happens every two years and in different places in the country each time.

After studying "Cutting Across the Country in Style" I became inspired to put together a capsule wardrobe. One of the pieces will be a version of the Points top with a bound collar. I am using the P & P Points and SIH neckline.  To make the muslin, I morphed a woven top from the Points and Pleats and the Stars in Heaven patterns.    I started with the points blouse but made it a pullover by cutting the center front on the fold line and eliminating the yoke and back pleat.  Since I do not want a collar on my final version, I used the SIH bound neck edge on this top to test it.  I have a pair of denim blue "linen" one-seams and was looking to make a top to match so decided to make my muslin to match the pants.  This blue top is not part of the wardrobe plan.

So far all this sound fine...and cool to boot!

My capsule wardrobe top will be button front with a bound collar (Olive linen with black buttons) based on my morphed Points top.   This is where I need help.  I am not sure how to merge the bound collar into the button front (using Points blouse).  I am not sure how to roll the bound edge over the placket since there are so many layers in the binding.  Or perhaps I should have the placket come all the way to the top and the binding butt  up against the placket? With so much fabric in the binding I am not sure this will be very attractive.  Any help in that direction will be appreciated.

If you can stop the bias binding where the collar terminates on both left and right front, you should be alright. You might also do the old fashion way of binding...only one layer, starting from the right side and flip it to the back...the long raw edge in the back would be serged off first. That way it will eliminate layers of fabric. Your binding would not start out as wide. If you are looking at 3/8" finished, you would have 3/8" original seam, 3/8" going, 3/8" coming and I would do an additional 3/8" for the turn of the cloth. That would be the width of your bias to start with. Four 3/8" ...or 1 1/2" if my math is correct.

I will send this one off to you and cut and paste the One Seam questions there. Louise
 

[Goddard]

Louise (and all),

According to the brochure, the Convergence vendor mall is open for day passes from 10-6 on Thurs June 26, 9-5 on Fri June 27, and 9-3 on Sat June 28.  The cost of a day pass at the last Convergence was $10. It also entitles you to view some of the exhibits.  More info on Convergence at www.weavespindye.org   Hopefully HGA will post the vendor roster on their website before too long -- it's what convinced me to make a day trip just for shopping.  It was worth every penny, BTW!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Thanks for posting, I just received a response from HGA and this is what they listed.

The Vendor and Exhibit halls will be open to the public during the conference, June 25-28.  The day pass/ticket for entry to those halls will be available on-site; the still-to-be-announced price will be in the $10-20 range.

And while you are in Tampa, don't forget to check out all the wonderful exhibits around the community, too.

Vendor Hall:
Wed, June 25, 11am-6pm
Thurs, June 26, 10am-6pm
Fri, June 27, 9am-6pm
Sat, June 28, 9am-4pm

Exhibit Hall:
Wed and Thurs, June 25-26, 9:30am-6pm
Fri, June 27, 9:30am-8pm
Sat, June 28, 9:30am-4pm

My afternoon's work is pricing and putting into tubes some new buttons I received at Market...they will be going to Arlington, HGA, and ASG. Till later, Louise
 

[Goddard]

It's also worth mentioning that 1-day Studio Classes are available to day trippers who are non-registrants, and the class fee includes a day pass to the Vendor Mall.  (Note: Studio Classes represent only a portion of the class offerings.  Other classes are only available with full registration.)