Cutting Line Design Patterns, Events and Announcements II

[Terri K]

Starting new topic since the first one was up to 20 pages.   Good timing since I had a question about how to cut the  AST in XS with a S neck & collar that Louise recommended.   

So making the XS with the S neck & collar,  do I cut the XS and then continue the line vertically to the S lines at the shoulder and neck?    I've also been working on another ABO jacket, longer with not as tall a collar, now 1 1/2" wide, which is a better proportion for me using Louise's instructions which I'll paste here when I find them on the first topic.   I have a little binder where I've printed out all her ideas and instructions for twists and changes to the patterns and I index them by pattern or style and also include photos of garments I want to copy.

Here are her instructions (Jan 7, 2007 reply #143) for modifying the collar of the ABO jacket as seen on some Eskandar jackets - shortening it so it doesn't extend as far out as the jacket front, and/or making it narrower.

As far as the Front pattern piece dealing with the Collar area goes...nothing has to be done to the Front of the jacket (lower part later) Now on to the collar. There is a front fold line for each size. Find your size and fold the collar in half on YOUR collar size...the inside length of collar will be larger (that is the seam allowance) so don't touch that area. If you fold the two layers of the collar at the same time  to shorten the front of the collar area (while it is in the folded position) a 1/2" fold would make the finished garment collar edges 1" apart 5/8" will make it 1 1/4" apart and so on. (I fear if I go from this post and look at Terri's link to the Eskandar jacket I will loose all that I have written...If I see anything different, I will edit the post after taking a better look at the neckline.  With a temporary scotch tape tape the fold into position.

You now can make the jacket as the instructions say. Just make sure the collar is the same distance away from the front fold.  As I recall the collar is a bit narrower. on the Eskandar jacket..just fold the same amount down from the top edge of the collar again tape into position. Remember you have to have the 5/8" seam allowance. The top edge is the straight one. As far as the width at the hem of the coat...if you want a more 'Eskandar' wide jacket make a bigger size. Leave your neck line in your size, and  cut along the shoulder line in your size, but then go to the next size larger when you get to the armscye, put in the larger sleeve so they sleeve cap and armscye match...but you might want to shorten the hem of the sleeve a bit...granted you will roll the sleeve up, but maybe not that many times to see your hands!

[fzxdoc]

Here is a link back to the previous topic, in case someone wants to follow the flow from the old one to this new continuation:

http://artisanssquare.com/sg/index.php/topic,777.new.html#new

The old topic is now locked, with a link to this one.

Kathryn

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Hi all, I am back from Medford about 1AM last night...so I have orders to fill, see what all the e-mails are about and get myself squared away before I to head to Ocala on Thursday.

I'm glad the other site is still able to be accessed if anyone needs (like me) to see what I said.

Terri, as soon as I see the light at the end of the tunnel (my desk) I will pull out ABO, look and advise  how to do the SM neck but XS body.

Well, Twinkie is here...I better get this off before i have more help than I need. till later, Louise

[template]

Hello everyone. The Medford chapter of ASG sponsored Louise for a weekend of learning and sewing. We had a lot of fun and learn a lot. The most heard comment was "this hint was worth the price of admission", time and time again. I must say that by the end of the session on Sunday afternoon quite a few of the ladies were on brain overload. Thank you Louise for a very fun and instructive weekend. By the way, please do not laugh to much when you see the way I spelled 'chalkner" on the flap of the manilla enveloppe. 
Louise arrived on Friday, in between some severe snow storms, Sunday night I 5, the major freeway Norh/South was closed from Ashland, 10 miles south of Medford, for about 140 miles, to Redding, CA due to bad snowy and icy conditions. It reopened Monday morning. As several of you who have attended classes or seminars with Louise have mentioned "if you have a chance to do so" please do it. You will not regret it.
Bye for now. Jackie B. in S OR (the one with all the questions)

[LyndaC]

Louise, the latest class again went great!   I do wish you could hear the kudos to you, so I like to pass them along.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Just finished packing the van to head to Ocala...now that is off my plate, I will help you Terri with the neck line to go from SM neck to XS body of AST.

What Twinkie is not laying on as far as the tissue pattern, I want you to draw along the curve of the neckline on the SM line front and back...and then use all the small pieces that go with that...th collar band in SM and the collar in SM.

Now, start to draw along the shoulder seam line to just past the 5/8" and with your straight edge continue to draw your shoulder line until you get to the XS shoulder stitching line at the armseye. Do the same for the garment back. Now everything else will be made using the XS size. Check to see the garment is the length you want and so is the sleeve length.

Make sure you are signed up to recieve the newsletter. Webboy is scheduled to make some changes on Friday and have some new stuff up.

still lots to do, till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Many thanks for taking the time to check that out and explain Louise.   I didn't realize that you were off again so soon.    I'll have my XS with S collar ready to show off in Tampa!    Then hopefully I will have the newest pattern to make up for Atlanta.   

[bowersbites]

Louise, I have some serious misprinting errors on my Points and Pleats pattern instructions, which I bought from you, and have sent you two emails lately. I understand you are very busy traveling, but want you to know of the error. I am OK for now, having gotten the correct instructions from a friend. Please check the email from your website for details. Thanks, Barb

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I did get your e-mail and sent you one in return about the mis-print...not quite sure what happens at the printers, but it happens every once in awhile...and sometimes at a show/expo directions are pulled out to help a customer and get placed back into the wrong envelope. New pattern on it's way to you...when I get back today. That way you will have it all. I'm off, till much later, Louise

[bowersbites]

Great, and thank you, Louise! Barb

[Alice in Bama]

Louise,
Do you know yet what you are going to be bring to the expo in Atalanta I know [at least hope] You will have fabric ,patterns and instructions manuals But will you have your notions or your interfacing and other product like that. I am try to not purchase an thing on Internet site until the expo Just was  wondering what you might have ? Are you going to have the irons too??? We have started and expo site you might want to check it out

Alice

[Terri K]

Things are moving along.   After getting all the measurements and lengths decided, I cut out my AST jacket from the same wool satin back crepe fabric as the One-Seam pant I made in January.    I wanted to add that this crepe is a light color and ravels at the cut edges so it makes things slower.   I'm using SAS lite for this fabric.


I'm making view A with the long sleeve, but 2 inches shorter for me.   This metal yardstick DH gave me years ago for the interfacing strips is exactly 1 1/4" wide - same width as the required interfacing for fronts and pockets.  So I run my rotary cutter along the side and get perfect strips every time      If I have left-over ends, they just go into my bag of stabilizing strips for shoulders, etc.

[Lorraine K]

"Of the Moment" has arrived on Louise's site:   http://webstore.quiltropolis.net/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details.asp?Store_id=516&page_id=23&Item_ID=1192

I have the perfect fabric for this.

Lorraine

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Oh, you are quick...webboy and I were working on it until about 1:00am last night. I have a very, very bad cold, so he was across town and I just kept having to hit 'refresh' as he was making the changes to make sure everything was there. New links, additional places on the schedule page and some color changes on the interfacing page.

I will be sending out a note (newsletter) shortly letting people know that it has arrived as has 'A Peek at Christmas'...till later, Louise   

[Terri K]

Great pattern!  I soaked this basket-weave cashmere in Eucalan last night and it's drying on the line.  View A, which is what I'd use this for doesn't take a lot of fabric either    It's a great day for airing out my wool fabrics because of the sun and wind!    I hang some up and leave for half hour and then air some more.

   This will be great for the new jacket because both sides show.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Terri, it is nice that you can follow along one of the weaving lines of your pretty fabric. This will help with your stay-stitching.  Please take your time to press and turn all your little clean finished seams to the wrong side...you want to keep them as straight as possible...so much of the lapel shows and looks so pretty with the edge stitching along a nice straight fold.

off to get a bit more work done and then maybe to sew later today...off now to get more tissues. later, Louise

[Alice in Bama]

I like the looks of your new jacket Louise Looks like it will be a good one to wear when it get hot here in the south
Alice

[marciae]

I just ordered the new pattern!!

[LOUISE CUTTING]

I have made the new jacket in wool for Puyallup and CT retreat...and double sided linen and a cotton ikat for Tampa and Atlanta...and the original designer has had this style jacket season after season in everything from sheer silk organza, raw edge boiled wool to knitted styles. As you look at the of pattern for the jacket, you will see that one of the front drape lapels is longer...actually wider from the shoulder seam to the front mitered corner than the other one...you can sew it this way...subtle drape to both or you can make two in the little longer fronts or two of the shorter ones. If you do sew the longer and shorter fronts, they can cross over double breasted style...with either one great button/pin to hold the lapel in place or two buttons at the mitered corners...they would be in the area of your collar bone placement.

I checked quickly for a photo of the tabbard:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ESKANDAR-Dark-Brown-Striated-Silk-Tabbard-Open-Jcket-OS_W0QQitemZ220202674128QQihZ012QQcategoryZ63860QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

And here are 2 pictures of the jacket.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Eskandar-Sandstone-Linen-Jacket-0-NWT-Summer-07_W0QQitemZ140207058079QQihZ004QQcategoryZ63860QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Eskandar-Cream-Wool-Cashmere-Open-Jacket-0-NWT_W0QQitemZ170193696114QQihZ007QQcategoryZ63860QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The garments might look like down and dirty sewing, but all edges are clean finished and the little 1 1/2" -2" facings show as the garment is being worn. Not difficult, but not 'get it out at 7am and wear it to a luncheon'

I am planning on making the jacket in boiled wool and having the raw edges exposed instead of clean finishing them...then it becomes down and dirty sewing...I used to carry boiled wool in the store from Austria....and some was not sold at the close of the store...I have cream and a butter color in the stash...And some short amounts of other colors...Hmmm maybe a 'Jacobs' coat. Now I just need to fine 'down and dirty time to sew.....I have 90 minutes until the post office opens...I'm outta here!

till later, Louise

[Terri K]

Thanks for the links Louise!   

I washed the cashmere I posted the photo of in Eucalan last weekend and it turned out beautifully.   I'm putting the final touches on my A Subtle Twist jacket.    Now the dilemma is what to make first - the cashmere or linen for spring in the new jacket?    I compared the sizing of the two patterns and the medium in the Of The Moment is the same as the XS I'm using for the AST.     So I'm going to cut the medium in the OTM with no modifications.     I may go up a size in the AST in a future jacket but the sizing and length I chose for this crepe worked out well.   That's the thing with your patterns,  you change the fabric, sizing and length and it's different look.

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Terri...you might think about a SM in OTM...it is 50" from center to center where the MD is 54" Yes it is supposed to be soft and drapy...but not to big. Before you cut into the really good stuff...make a prototype in the SM is a similar fabric...you don't have to finish it first just get the size down then go to the good fabric and sew all the way through.

Note, I said prototype and not muslin...my theory is never make a muslin out of muslin...you don't care for the way it is sewn, there is so much junk in the fabric it is never on grain and you will never wear it...by a prototype in a nice but less expensive fabric can be worn. 

I have been working on the HGA fashion show garment for hours today...I really want to finish it today...I have 3 other pieces to go with the main piece so the model is not naked! :ogoing down the isle.

till later, Louise 333333222222222222222222222222222222222222222222224444322dddddd5fcyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccccc and Twinkie

[Terri K]

My first AST jacket is complete.   I need to do the buttonholes but was sidetracked helping DH with wallboard replacement  - remodeling an old house is too much fun - NOT   

I love this wool crepe with black.   The necklace is one of the CroneArt pieces I got from Louise when she was in Asheville.  The pants are a black and white tiny check stretch wool - very lightweight.   I've had them for a couple of years and wear them all year around.  Here's a close-up of the neck and the way I used silk cording.   These pieces are versatile and can be used as belts too or fasteners.   I have another one and keep my options open.    More photos on flickr set.

This jacket looks simple but the construction is a work of art.   I followed the directions to the word and it went together beautifully - all fine sewing techniques.   Takes time but is worth it.    I never had to rip or correct any mistakes because you won't make any if you follow the instructions.   Thank you Louise!    My next one will be a spring/summer fabric with the short sleeve.

[marciae]

Terri - I love the looks of your jacket.  I saw a short sleeved one in a catalog (forgot which one!! ) in black.  Sometime in the near future I'd like to make one.  I received my new pattern Sat.  Will read and study it later.  I'm thinking the tabard might be nice in a fleece to snuggle in until the weather warms??

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Terri, you did a wonderful job on the collar stand...I have been teaching this method on applying it for years and is in all the my patterns, step-by-step that has a collar band. I am teaching it as one the techniques at the Sit and Sews I am doing around the country.

Again, worked on the HGA fashion show garment yesterday...as long as the jacket took...off and on, maybe 2 months of sewing but close to 6 months in the planning...from drating the pattern, to working with the weaver on what the actual fabric would look like that would be woven, and then looking at the running yardage for days...figuring out how it would be cut and matched. In looking at the finsihed hand woven garment it looks so simple..but was one of the most intense thought processes I have had to do in a long time.

Now that it is done, I have to sew the rest of the outfit...part of it would be One Seams....after months of working on the hand woven garment...the One Seams in silk shantung with matching china silk lining went quickly yesterday afternoon...yeah! I got something done...

Today, after I place orders on notions and interfacings...you guys wiped me out of some items for the sale...I will try to get a second piece finished.

After all is said and done...pictures will be up on the website in the gallery...but not until mid July...that was part of the rules...nothing can get out about the design etc. Plus I had to keep a journal and photos along the way...that is not the norm for me...I keep everything in my head and to write it down and take pictures...hmmm.

Sandy and I pack the van for Tampa tomorrow and we travel on Wed and set up on Wed all day.

Again, you did a  beautiful job on the jacket Terri. I tell people, when I first stated to perfect this collar band method...I wanted the inside of the band and the outside of the band to look the same. They are sewn by machine so the end result is perfect if the jacket is worn open or closed at the neck...it took about 8-10 trys to get it the way I wanted and then had to illustrate and write the step by steps so they could  be put into the pattern instructions...this way you got it right the first time. 

Well, it is after 9am and order depts should be open. till later, Louise
 

[Ann C]

Terri,

Your rendition of the AST jacket is marvelous!  Louise's techniques are wonderful and you have carried them off beautifully!  I haven't ordered the pattern yet, but this jacket will work beautifully into my now more relaxed retirement wardrobe!  ..................and I'm anxious to see your newest pattern, Louise! 

[Terri K]

Thank you Ann, Marcia and Louise for your nice complements.   Although I'm officially "retired", I wore outfits like this when I was working.  Nice slacks, a good top and an elegant jacket work anywhere.    When I plan a garment I always think about what I already have and what I can wear together - think understated luxury - simple pieces in great fabrics that look great together.  That's why I like Louise's third layer jacket/blouse patterns because they work in any weight of fabric from the very lightest to a coat weight.    I put the outfit on yesterday and had DH take some pictures, but they were out of focus (operator error) and I haven't a chance to re-take.     

I've got lots to do today and we leave tomorrow for Florida.    We'll take lots of photos in Tampa.     My sister's new house is almost complete outside of Clearwater and we have to look for another assisted living place for our mother - lots of family business.   So coincidentally, the Tampa expo was the same weekend.    It's nice to be able to mix business with pleasure since I enjoy helping Louise and Sandy out.

[bookish]

Louise, is your collar stand genius available in any of your nifty booklets?  Collar stands and I do not get along well together. 

[LOUISE CUTTING]

Just finished day 1 in Tampa...second day if you count the setup day...saw so many of the customers that used to come to the store...and ones I see over the years at this show. It seems to be a nice show (what I could see of it)...I don't get out of the booth unless it was to go to class.

The collar band, step by step, is in the yellow booklet...Tips and Techinques Collection II.

Short and sweet tonight...long day...over 17 hours and just got to sit down for the first time today!

till later, Louise 

[bookish]

Thanks, Louise.  Hope you get to put your feet up sometime soon!  Off to order Tips II.

[Terri K]

As I posted on the Expos events topic, I'm still in Florida and helped out yesterday at Louise's booth at the Tampa Expo.    I wore the same outfit with my yellow AST jacket I posted earlier and it was so comfortable.   I've got to make a bunch more of those in summer fabrics.   Louise had on the new jacket from the Of the Moment pattern in a double sided linen in two shades of green.   I really like how the collar shows both sides of the fabric.   This is a great one to use a fabric with two interesting sides.    I took some photos and will try to get them posted later this weekend .   

I met many ladies who were long time Louise fans who wore their interpretations of Louise's patterns.   It's great to see all the variations of the patterns.   One lady had made the neatest By Popular Demand jacket in a cotton in pink and green - think how Lilly Pulitzer combines pink and grass green, plus this is Florida!    It was fabulous the way she used the coordinating fabrics from her stash that were the same solid with a narrow woven stripe woven in - four pocket flaps were green over pink - the back yoke was green I believe and the tab was pink.     Then her crop pants and accessories all coordinated - super look.    Sandy, Louise's assistant made a BPD with a pleat in the back, replacing the back seam, out of a black cotton sateen with embroidered purses on it.   I'm going to have to try the back pleat on that jacket after seeing hers.   I'm going back tomorrow for a short time around noon and will take some more photos.   

[Terri K]

I just posted all the photos I took at Louise's booth at the Tampa Sewing Expo.    I had to lighten most considerably since it was dark in the Expo hall.    Here is Louise wearing her latest pattern, Of the Moment, in a double face linen.    More photos and lots of fabric on my Flickr photos.

[marciae]

Terri - thanks for posting.  I love seeing Louise's things!

[Terri K]

Has anybody cut out either of the Of The Moment versions yet?   I've got a knit ready for the tabard but wanted to get the sizing down for the jacket, so I traced size small for view A to make a test garment this evening.   I'm using the two narrow left front pieces & corresponding facing.   I got it all cut out and stay-stitched but had to stop because I need some serger thread for the one side.

I also got the Neiman Marcus eskandar catalog for spring 2008 today.   It has a linen coat version of this jacket in a double face linen with a wide stripe at the bottom that picks up the color on the folded out lapel.    It's shown over an A-line dress with the same color and stripe at the bottom.   Elegant look.    I'd link it but they don't put most of the eskandar on the website.

[Karendee]

Terri,  Thanks for posting pictures from the Expo in FL. I have just purchased the "Of The Moment" pattern but haven't begun sewing yet. First, I've got to make  a muslin to decide about sizing. . I got interested in Louise"s patterns after seeing the beautiful cream jacket you made. I've forgotten the name of that model, but I purchased it also. I thought your workmanship was perfect; the collar, front, hem and side slits were to "die for." I'd love to see the N.M. Eskandar 2008  line, but I no longer get the brochure. Perhaps you'll find a way to submit a link. As a new member of the SG, I appreciate all the links your send us; my  "favorites listing"  is growiing as you expose us to many good sites.
 
Thanks again,

Karen (Karendee)

[mom2five]

Louise, You look FABULOUS!!!  I can't wait to see you in Arlington and get my hands on some of your fabric!