Plaid skirt??? In or out of fashion?

[andib]

I live in an area where no one really cares too much about how they look, so I never really have a handle on fashion do's and don'ts...I have some nice drapey wool blend plaid, that would be a great skirt. It is a med/small plaid, in dark /med tones, and is an even plaid. I have analyzed this over and over and I cannot decide what to do. 

Should I make a straight grain straight skirt, or a bias cut aline skirt?

I am a plus pear, avg. height.  I have draped the fabric on me and both ways look equally as good.  I tend to like straight skirts to give me more length, but I figure a straight bias skirt might be too much for the hip fluff.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

BTW, I have a nice white fitted blouse to wear with it, as well as a fitted light weight cable sweater that will match perfectly. 

[peter]

Being a guy I don't usually jump in on this kind of topic but...

I was in Italy last year and still recall seeing a female mannequin in a very high end shop window.  White blouse and a straight skirt in the fabric you just described.  A real classic look.  I vote for the straight skirt on grain.  I think it was Ferragamo.

[RuthieK]

I vote against the bias cut if you have any of - full tummy, saddlebags (fat on top of outside of thigh), full front thighs or big butt as the bias will tend to cup around all of these and make them more prominent.
In my case the saddlebags is the most serious issue, though I have all of the above, so I much prefer my skirts cut on grain.

I agree plaid is considered a classic look, and if you are not too worried about being fashion forward is almost always appropriate.

[lyra]

I see lots of plaid pencil skirts worn with opaque tights in Soho, so I'd say go for it. I would skip the cable sweater, though, because it would be a little school girl. 

[BeeBee]

Agree with all the above, straight or A-line at most.  The bias cut is not really "in" right now, but a straight grain always looks nice.  With a blouse or light knit sweater.

[Terri K]

Andi,  I've got this plaid eyelash wool that has lots of colors and texture that coordinates beautifully with a grouping of both solids and other pieces of I have:


But I'm just not into an entire plaid garment anymore, especially making one to match plaids etc.  Anyway - so what to do with this -  I plan on mixing it up with the coordinates and using it as an accent piece. 

I've been playing with is adding a bias strip of plaid along the inside edge of a plain skirt like the Diane Ericson Taos skirt.    I have a black one in a really cool textured cotton blend that I just serge edged the hem.  I may sew a bias strip inside to hang 5" and just leave the edges raw.   I've seen this in some really expensive designer skirts.    If I decide I don't want it anymore I'll just take it off.    I also got out the Threads archives for a refresh on Tara Arnold's article with detailed instructions for Miyake Winged Skirts (Issue #95) June 2001 which has lots of ideas for deconstructed skirts. 

For some other ideas, I saw this Missoni sweater type jacket and thought my plaid would look great as the body with the ribbing on the collar,front and sleeve in a taupe wool ribbing that I haven't done anything else with .   Love this collar.

From Style.com Missoni Collection Fall/Winter 2006 - some great ideas found there!

I made the Sewing Workshop Ikina jacket several ways and posted a great looking Diane Von Fursenberg wrap jacket that is a dead ringer for the Ikina.   The entire front band of the Ikina is on the bias.  So if you have enough for just the bias band, it's a great look and not screaming PLAID.  Here's a tiny photo I found of the DVF jacket.  

[Kira]

Plaids will always be in, they are a classic.

Bias vs. straight grain ... depending on the weight of the wool, a bias look may work out fine, even for those with a bit of fluff. 

If it is lightweight - straight grain.

If it is medium weight - bias or straight.

If it is heavy weight - straight grain.


Additionally, it really depends on your style.  If you are a very classic, preppy dresser, go for the straight grain.

With a bias plaid, you get a classic/arty mix rather than a classic/preppy mix.


Kira

[Robin]

The September issue of burda World of Fashion showed several very fashion forward plaid garments.  I don't think plaid can ever go out of style.
It's good in anything from a pencil skirt to some of these interesting designs.

[Claudine]

I don't think plaid can ever go out of style.

ITA.  I especially like it cut on the bias, but bias cut plaid can end up looking rather fashion-y, and may not fit in with what you like to wear.  For me, the more fashion-y, the better.

Lots of designers have great plaids in their collections.  Ralph Lauren is a good one for plaid, and the british designers like Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen both have at least some plaid in all of their collections.

I'm actually making a dress with a plaid skirt right now.  I'll post a photo when I'm finished.  This won't be for a while, though, since I sew slowly.

[Liana]

I love plaid too.  In anything, almost.    I have only known one person who didn't like plaid at all, ever, in any place.  Considering there's so much plaid available in clothing, home furnishings, even paper products, I think it would be very limiting to cut out all plaids, but luckily we don't have to! 

I think you've gotten good advice on your skirt.  I would go straight grain, but maybe with some kind of bias trim, like a welt pocket flap, or if you have a slit, how about a bias underlay for it?

[cmarie12]

I vote against the bias cut if you have any of - full tummy, saddlebags (fat on top of outside of thigh), full front thighs or big butt as the bias will tend to cup around all of these and make them more prominent.

Ruthie - I have to quietly disagree...I have all of those figure challenges and make bias cut skirts all the time!  The trick is in making sure there is enough fabric so that the bias drapes nicely around your figure instead of clinging to the "interesting" parts!



Andib - I think any type of skirt that you make out of the plaid fabric would be perfect.  Pick a style that you are comfortable wearing, pair it with the white blouse and coordinating cardigan and because YOU will feel good in it, you WILL look good in it!

[andib]

Wow, I didn't htink there would be so many opinions, but I am glad for all of them!  Thank you for weighing in!  I think if I want something more the shape of a pencil skirt, I will do for straight grain, and if I go a little more a-line, it will be bias.

I saw a RTW skirt that was straight in the front, done on the straight grain, and in the  back there were 4 gores with a hem flare done on bias.  I couldn't tell if I kept looking b/c it was wierd, or cool!

I am still undecided...  and no sewing will take place around here until mid term exams are over, as well as NYS mandated testing!

[BeeBee]

Ohhh, andib:  that makes me think of M5523.  You could do view A on Straight and the back "flirt" on bias.
http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M5523.htm?tab=skirts_pants&page=1

[Robin]

Carolyn thanks for posting that picture of your bias skirt.  I had a skirt like that before - I could wear it on fat days or skinny days.  It seemed to adapt itself to me.
Of course, ALWAYS worn with Spanx and a top that sorta hangs out somehow.

I don't yet know what all the tricks are for sewing bias.  I have also had bias-disasters where the cut emphasized my "interesting" parts, as you put it.

There was a good article in Threads this month about sleeves on the bias.  Something to try when I get bored.

[vtmartha]

Carolyn, are you sure that skirt is cut on the bias?    Great print!

[fzxdoc]

I also give mulitple thumbs up (too bad I only have two) for plaids cut on the bias.  To me they are more interesting and don't have all of those horizontal lines that can so easily define the widest area of the body.  They tend to make the eye travel upwards or downwards, which is a real plus, as opposed to side-to-side, no matter what one's dimensions are.  That said, I do not usually live in "on grain plaids" so perhaps I have something to learn about that. 

Here are some significantly-unbiased skirts:





and here are a few unbiased skirts (well, mostly)





I really think it depends on the size of the plaid, the size of the human, and personal preference.

Kathryn

[Elle]

I too am struggling with the plaid skirt idead ("which pattern, bias or straight grain?), and boy is this thread helpful.  I was thinking straight grain until I saw Kathryn's post, and now I'm just totally open to the possibilities! 

Kathryn, your garments are all beautiful, but boy there's a special place in my heart for your cute little black and plaid outfit above with the saucy bow and even saucier lace trim on the skirt.  Bravo!

Elle

[fzxdoc]

Thank you, Elle! 

Kathryn

[lyra]

Oooh, those are gorgeous. I really the yellow/red/green long skirt. It looks like a great party skirt.

[andib]

Kathryn, what a wonderful plaid gallery!

The best part of bias is the drape and moveability of a fabric>.Thanks for sharing all of your wonderful creations!

[cmarie12]

Martha ~ yes, but the skirt consists of 4 panels and each panel is cut on the bias.  This is one of my favorite skirts and I have made it at least a dozen times in all different types of fabrics, colors and patterns.

[Lisa Laree]

Wow! Such gorgeous bias skirts!!!
Wonderful eye candy; thanks so much for sharing them, Kathryn and Carolyn!

[fzxdoc]

Thanks, Lyra, Andi, and Lisa!  Carolyn, I lurve your skirt!  If it ever wants a new home you know where to send it! 

Lisa, I left an edited (by edited I mean I edited one of my comments to add a paragraph of praise for your latest projects  ) note to you on the Fabric Mart topic, with compliments on your "blue queue" tops and dress.  Gosh, are they ever pretty!

TerriK, that plaid black watch jacket is soooo cute!  I may file that away for future inspiration.  Thanks!

Kathryn

[Marji]

Gorgeous Kathryn! Thanks for the uplifting eye candy. 

[andib]

So Carolyn, is the center of each panel on the tru grain? I have seen some bias skirts with the tru bias on the CF or CB, and I just thought that would not work.

[rockvillage]

... Here are some significantly-unbiased skirts: ...

You made all those?  Fantastic job. 

Anne

[Liana]

So Carolyn, is the center of each panel on the tru grain? I have seen some bias skirts with the tru bias on the CF or CB, and I just thought that would not work.

andib,  You're right about the bias grain on CF and CB not working as well.  You don't often see RTW skirts with bias panels like Carolyn's, because it takes much more fabric to put the true bias at the center of each panel than to make a straight grain skirt.  It's also more labor intensive to cut out, especially if you're matching a plaid.  There's no question that with the bias at the center of each panel, the skirt will hang much more beautifully, though.  It's also generally true that with this type of skirt, the more sections, or gores, the better, up to a point anyway.    When you do a single piece skirt front on the bias, for example, the piece is wide enough that by the time you get to the side seams, you can have some strange grain stuff going on.  Sometimes it's not a problem, but it depends on the fabric.  That's why you often see plaid skirts with CF and CB seams, or even more seams for more panels.

HTH!

[auntie j]

For what it's worth...I have a few "school girl" pleated plaid skirts and whenever I wear them I get positive comments.  Put a bright colored plaid with a black turtleneck, black tights and ballet flats...or if that's not your look, stack it up with the 50's wiggle look wearing heels and a form fitting sweater with a pencil style skirt. There's lots of ways to wear plaid. And lots of plaids!  It's not the plaids themselves that dictate the look sometimes, it's the rest of the outfit, and of course the positive attitude!
Auntie J

[fzxdoc]

I totally agree with Liana, having made bias skirts both ways, with the bias in the center of each gore and with the bias on the CF/CB seams.  The skirts with the true bias in the center of each gore hang so much more prettily. 

Thanks so much, Marji and Anne!

Kathryn

[Sew-4-Fun (Ann)]

Glad I stumbled here   Kathryne what a wonderful collection of plaid outfits, all beautiful, and Carolyn I love the print of your skirt  

[Elle]

I made the Sewing Workshop Ikina jacket several ways and posted a great looking Diane Von Fursenberg wrap jacket that is a dead ringer for the Ikina.   The entire front band of the Ikina is on the bias.  So if you have enough for just the bias band, it's a great look and not screaming PLAID.  Here's a tiny photo I found of the DVF jacket.  

A bit OT and I do apologise, but doesn't this jacket look like V2989?  I still don't like the lapels down the front, too wide, think I'll leave it off mine.

[cmarie12]

Liana - thanks for giving such a wonderful explanation because that is what I do (each piece is cut on the true bias) and these are yardage eating skirts BUT they are some of the best fitting skirts I have ever worn.  They are flattering to my figure and when worn as part of a suit ensemble or with a twin set I always receive a compliment when wearing them.  I have made several skirts where the front and back are each one piece cut on the bias and as Liana said the side seam depending upon the fabric can get a little wonky.  I also have experienced more length growth with those types of skirts than with the bias panel skirts. 

Thank you everyone for your kind compliments on my "wild print" skirt.  I know that the topic was specifically about plaid bias skirts but I really wanted to let other plus size sewists know that a well cut bias skirt can work on our figure types, too!

And doesn't Kathryn have the nicest pieces!  Makes you want to come over to her house in the morning to get dressed before work, play or any social engagement! 

[andib]

Carolyn, I figured your skirt was cut on th etru bias, as it hangs so nicely.  I find my favorite skirts and dresses are cut on the bias...my only problem with this skirt is visually I am just not sure how the plaid will look.  I may do a 8 gore skirt, like the Tango?? or amI crazy??

[cmarie12]

I may do a 8 gore skirt, like the Tango?? or amI crazy??

Andi - 8 gores with the plaids matching like a chevron all around might be a little jarring to the eye - but how about making a copy of the 8 gore skirt and doing a bias plaid overlay to see if you like it...'cause if you really like it that's all that matters, right?

[fzxdoc]

Thanks, Sue, for complimenting my collection.  I don't think of myself as a plaid person, per se, but I sure seem to sew with them a lot!  And Carolyn, come on over! 

Andi, I second Carolyn's suggestion.  Once you draw your plaid onto a copy of the line drawing, you'll be able to tell whether you can get away with that many intersections.  It could look very kewl, or it could give you vertigo, depending on the plaid, I would think.  My first thought would be to find a simpler skirt design, but sometimes the best creations come from a "what if I try this" approach, flying in the face of conventional wisdom.

Elle, that DVF jacket has very similar style lines to Vogue 2989, I agree



photo credits at www.voguepatterns.com

I'm wondering if the DVF looks like the top of a bathrobe, but with the style lines from the Vogue (peplum, etc.), perhaps not because of the more fitted silhouette.  It's really a very pretty use of the plaid. 

Kathryn