Neefer's latest projects

[fzxdoc]

I am copying Neefer's post from the children's sewing area and putting it in this section, which focuses on individual projects.  So here's Neefer's post from December 10.

Kathryn

From Neefer:

Some of my more recent efforts.


I was so sure that I had the alterations correct that I didn't leave anything to let out.

Live and learn.


Latest cheongsam t-shirt


Twist Top

Neefer

[fzxdoc]

As I said on the other topic, Neefer, I really like that cheongsam style top.   How does it close? Is there a zipper in the back, or does the front seam actually open up?  I'd love more details about it, such as the pattern and fabric used, too.

The twist top looks pretty in that nice drapey knit, too.  You must be getting lots of wear out of it.

And have you made the pants pattern up again since you posted this photo?  It would be interesting to hear what alterations and new fabric you are mulling.

Kathryn

[Robin]

neefer, your knit pieces look comfy and cosy.
I'd like to whip up a few myself.

We all have those 'live & learn' projects ...better to sew and learn than never to have sewn at all!
After the holidays, I'll be back to the machine, too.

[joan71]

Hi Neefer,
Glad to see that you posted your projects.  Great looking tops and I bet that pink one looks great with your coloring.  Been there, done that on the pants thingy

Joan

[Martha]

I have had so many pairs of pants that looked like that - you might be able to save them....just a thought, I have done this a few times - put the pants inside out, into each other, like when you sew the entire crotch seam - with right sides together, and sew a deeper crotch - at least 1/2" deeper - you will have to clip or trim to really know.

[Susan C]

Neefer --  the tops are really cute. I especially like the pink one.  As for the pants, I know they aren't what you'd hoped for,but I bet if you look in your closet you'll find RTW pants that don't fit perfectly.  I know I expect the pants I make to fit me perfectly, not a wrinkle in site, but I don't have the same standard when it comes to RTW.  My advice is, if the pants are comfortable, wear them in good health and the next pair will be even better.  Susan

[neefer]

As I said on the other topic, Neefer, I really like that cheongsam style top.   How does it close? Is there a zipper in the back, or does the front seam actually open up?  I'd love more details about it, such as the pattern and fabric used, too.

The twist top looks pretty in that nice drapey knit, too.  You must be getting lots of wear out of it.

And have you made the pants pattern up again since you posted this photo?  It would be interesting to hear what alterations and new fabric you are mulling.

Kathryn

It's Simplicity 5098 (sorta).  Here are the posts about it at my blog.  It closes with snaps across the opening that runs from center front to the armhole.  I merged my KS t-shirt pattern with the neckline of this pattern, and I faced the opening with an interfaced facing cut "on grain".   Knits, rather like wovens, stretch terribly on the bias. 

I haven't made anymore pants since those.  If I wear them with different underwear, they are wearable.  They are very comfortable even tho they look tight.  I showed them off at BABES, and Georgene thought they would be perfect in a stretch fabric.  This fabric isn't.  She also suggested that I need to widen the crotch, front to back, adding in the front; that would get rid of the wedgie (that I don't feel).

Thanks for putting this in its own thread.

[neefer]

I have had so many pairs of pants that looked like that - you might be able to save them....just a thought, I have done this a few times - put the pants inside out, into each other, like when you sew the entire crotch seam - with right sides together, and sew a deeper crotch - at least 1/2" deeper - you will have to clip or trim to really know.

I forgot!   I did do that, and it worked well.  It still looks like I get a wedgie, but I don't feel it.

[neefer]

if the pants are comfortable, wear them in good health and the next pair will be even better.  Susan

That's my motto, too. 

And, "It's better finished than perfect."   

[Martha]

Neefer - I think lengthening the crotch, not widening it will work - you need to drop the F and B crotch level - the distance (angled) from the side seam is not long enough, creating those diagonal wrinkles.  In the alternative, if you feel like the crotch feels good, then you can just add length to the side seams at the top.  If you pull the pants down slightly at the sides (slightly below where you wear them); and look in the mirror at the back, you will probably see those wrinkles fall out into a nicer drape.

[neefer]

Neefer - I think lengthening the crotch, not widening it will work - you need to drop the F and B crotch level - the distance (angled) from the side seam is not long enough, creating those diagonal wrinkles.  In the alternative, if you feel like the crotch feels good, then you can just add length to the side seams at the top.  If you pull the pants down slightly at the sides (slightly below where you wear them); and look in the mirror at the back, you will probably see those wrinkles fall out into a nicer drape.

Lengthening the crotch depth is absolutely not the answer.  If I lengthen it, they will hang down too low and my upper thighs will be touching (ask me how I know).  That's very uncomfortable.  I have a very short rise in front, and while I have a protruding rear in back, I have taken that into account on these pants.

I do think the pants are pulled up too high.  I had just pulled them on for the picture.  Since I'm so short in the crotch depth, nothing stays up, and my tendancy is to pull things up as high as I can.

[neefer]

Which button(s)?



Chungita likes the ones on the left, which are two different sizes, and she likes the little knot buttons, but I think those are too small. It’s probably not going to be the flowers or the one big one.

I like the ones to the left, too, but they are different sizes.  Do you think that would look odd, or, perhaps, no one would even notice?

[Sewing Lady]

I like the ones on the left too.  If you don't try to get them to hang the same way and I would put the smaller one on top.  What do you think?

[neefer]

The Parisienne Coat by Decades of Style

Fabric: rayon twill, heavy wt with nice drape.

This one is a toile.  I'm not sure how I like it.  I says duster to me.  Not that there's anything wrong with dusters, but they aren't me.  I'm more of a denim jacket kinda person.

I do love this fabric ... well, the feel and drape of this fabric.  Black isn't  part of my SWAP.  And I'm definitely not a gold person.  I do like the giraffes.  

I think I'm going to try the short version in fleece.  I need to add a center back seam for my butt.  But other than that, I'm happy with the fit.  

[joan71]

Neefer, I like it.  You are way ahead of the game with the giraffe print, what wiith safari stuff being in for the coming season.

Wear it to work and I betcha' you get a lot of "Oh Wow!" comments.

Joan

[Sherril Miller]

Jenn, why don't you shorten the coat and I bet it would be more wearable for you. I can't wear a duster either. I feel like a little girl wearing her mother's clothes when I try.

[neefer]

I'm frustrated.   

I'm making a jacket (401) from Burda Plus Spring 2007.  I like the lines of the blazer, but I was never sure about the collar and lapel.

While I'm still not sure about the collar and label (see blog post), I'm really frustrated by the sleeve.  I didn't pre-measure.  I'm an optimist, and I do believe that pattern pieces should fit together.  The stupid sleeve cap is too long in the back.  I've never had it happen that the front of the sleeve & cap fits in the armhole great, but the back doesn't.

Plus, I can't figure out how to topstitch the sleeve down the center front seam.  It's a 3 piece sleeve.

Check my blog post for pix.

Frustration - there, now the link will work.   
 
Right now, the jacket is sitting on 'Tina with the second sleeve thrown at it.  It's getting warm, so my enthusiasam for a jacket has waned.  I'm mad that I used this denim on this jacket instead of TNT jean jacket.  It's not a wadder (yet), but I don't want to continue it, and I don't want to line it. 

[Karendee]

Neefer,

Could the sleeve be in the wrong armscye?    Why don"t you stop sewing on the denim jacket until you feel better? Definitely, don't make it a wadder. It will be cute--and you could always make a vest if necessary. These are just ideas-----

Karendee

[fzxdoc]

Neefer, you've got a lot to ease in, but maybe the design of the jacket requires that fullness in the back sleeve area.  Have you steamed the gathering line while the sleeve's gathering line is placed over the curved surface of a tailor's ham or the end of a sleeveboard (after the sleeve is gathered but before it's inserted into the armhole opening)?  Lots of times I have found that with a ton of steam and manipulating the area with my fingers, those ripply areas around the gathers shrink in nicely.

As far as topstitching down that front sleeve seam goes, it can be done before the final sleeve seam is sewn together.  It's really hard to do once the sleeve is sewn into a tube.  I see that you were instructed to put the cuff on first, which is a problem for topstitching a long sleeve seam.  Perhaps you could release one of the seams almost to the cuff and then topstitch the "center front" sleeve seam before you sew the released seam back up again.

As Karendee says, the best thing to do is to take a break from it.  From the photos it looks way to nicely made to be a wadder.

Kathryn

[neefer]

My new dress from BWOF Plus Spring 2007

It's not hemmed in the above image.  I'm very pleased with it.  The fabric is a poly knit.  I think MasoumaRose gave me the fabric at a BABES meeting. 

I've also finished another pair of pants.  I finally figured out that I want the bottom of the  front yoke to hit my waist.  My front crotch length is very, very, very short.  If I fit the pants so that the yoke is like a highwaisted pair of pants in front (cause I have a tilted waist), I'm very comfy.

I have done nothing about the ill-fitting jacket sleeves.  It's too hot to think about jackets.

[nanflan]

Nice dress! I like it!

[MasoumaRose]

My new dress from BWOF Plus Spring 2007

It's not hemmed in the above image.  I'm very pleased with it.  The fabric is a poly knit.  I think MasoumaRose gave me the fabric at a BABES meeting. 

Lovely dress! but nope, I wasn't the provider of the fabric--I think that the fabric came from Georgene.  I love the design and the fabri c selection.   What a lovely inspiration!

[fzxdoc]

Nice dress, Neefer.  Don't you just love Burda WOF?  The patterns are so nice. That was a great gifted fabric, too.  Enjoy wearing your new dress.

Kathryn

[Jacs]

I like that dress too, I had looked at that pattern and was undecided whether to make it up, but seeing it here makes me want to make it.

I agree Kathryn WOF is an amazing resource, I have been purchasing them off trademe (similar to ebay) as I am looking for some TNT basics to make up in my size.

[neefer]

So I'm starting on my next project.  My first bias dress ... well, bias anything.



I know I want plenty of ease (4 inches sound right?), but any other tips?  I'm not concerned about the inset corner.  BTDT.

[Karendee]

Neefer,

Your dress is adorable. Is that a short sleeve I see peeking out? I think your dress will be easy to wear and care for. All the makings of a great summer garment.

Karend

[joan71]

Neefer, what a great pattern you have selected.  I don't need to tell you, but I will anyway....handle the cut bias pieces as little as possible til you get them stay stitched.  It is amazing how misshapen they can get, before even a seam is sewn.
I love bias....takes pounds off when the fit is right.

Keep us posted about your progress.

PS: Are we (BABES) getting together before school starts??


Joan

[neefer]

So I went to my neighborhood ASG group last night, showed them my latest and greatest, and asked about my next project, the bias dress.

Oh, and I took the denim jacket (the one with the sleeve issues).  The group decided that the jacket pattern was STUPID.  They think the problem with the sleeve fitting is the fact that the sleeve cap is too big for the arm hole, and no, I did not measure it before starting.  I haven't had problems with Burda before.  Further, they agreed with me that it was impossible to topstitch that last seam and that the cuff should be reworked (split into 2 pieces) so that it is possible to top stitch the sleeve and make the underarm seam the last seam sewn.  I feel so much better.   

I got some good advice (I hope) for the bias dress.  Mostly I was concerned about how much ease I needed.  I'm kinda lumpy around the hips and tummy.  So I'm going to shoot for about 4 inches of ease and use 1.5 inch seam allowances.  We shall see ...

[Sew Passionista]

Hi Neefer,I have that pattern and have never gotten around to making it. I attended a Sandra Betzina workshop where she taught us how to work with bias pieces. I've followed her instructions and had very good results. Here are the main points:
Iron your fabric stretching it in all directions and I mean really stretch it.
Cut your pieces addng one inch extra seam allowances. ( This is to give you better control  as you sew.)
Once your pieces are cut, Iron each one stretching it again.
Use a small zigzag stitch to sew the pieces together . ( I use 1.5 width and1.5 lenght.)
Use twill tape or Wonder tape to stabilize necklines, arm holes and shoulder seams.
To hem,unless you are doing a rolled hem or very narrow hem, it is helpful to use bias tape.
I hope this helps. You posted a week ago and I just read it tonight so hopefully, it can still be of some help.
Good luck and happy sewing!   
            Diana

[neefer]

Thanks Sew Passionista.

So, I have the pattern altered, and I'm ready to cut.  Unfortunately, my cutting table is too small.  I usually cut on a 36"x60" table with a matt and rotary cutter. 

Would you-all cut this out on the floor with sizzors? 

[Georgene]

Hey Neefer you can borrow my folding table top extender that I made from 1/2" thick foamcore if you want. It will make your table 60" wide by 80" long.

Please don't cut on the floor. Not only will you break your back, and curse a lot, you will be madder than the proverbial wet hen.

If you have the time to stop by, you are more than welcome to borrow it.

[Georgene]

See my post on cutting tables at The Sewing Divas: http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2008/07/20/table-talk/ there is a photo of the extendo folding table top there.

[joan71]

Neefer, I am glad to see someone, Sew Passionista, chimed in with some advice from an expert.  I respect SB and she usually knows what she is talking about.  My advice about handling bias came from information  from the Stone Ages.  I have sewn two garments in my life on the bias and that was a long time ago.  I hope you keep us posted on your progress.......I will try to remember to check in on your blog.

Joan

[neefer]

So far so good.  Click here for a larger version.
 

[neefer]

Me in Vogue 8070

So, what do you think?
When last I spoke of Vogue 8070, I was full of hope.  I always am during the fitting process.

I think it looks frumpy.  I don't know if it's the color or the general sack-like fitting below the FBA (aka too big around the middle) or the inset or all of the above.  

It looks like a funeral dress to me.