This is a method to cover shoes in fabric. If you like, you can match an outfit or garment you've made, or just get the exact look you want. I've done six or seven pairs previously, and have been asked for instructions, so I thought that the next time I did a pair, I'd take photos and write it up. I got and lost these instructions a long time ago, but the method is easy to repeat, so I haven't needed them. They were pretty basic.
I have taken a lot of step-by-step photos which are posted in the
Shoe Covering Gallery on my photo site. Please be sure to click on the first photo and then use the Next button to move ahead, as there is more information in the detailed captions than you'll see on the thumbnail page.
Choosing Shoes: I have used cloth covered dyable shoes for all of mine. They are easy to glue to, and I found a nice source in a local shoe store that does a lot of shoe dying. They used to sell the mis-dyed pairs at their annual sale. I could pick them up for a few dollars a pair in lots of colors. Now they redye all the mis-dyes black, which isn't so interesting, and could be a show-through problem. Also, the colors can be nice for different effects. You are supposed to be able to use any type of shoe, but this has been handy for me.
Tools Needed: You may choose your own tools as you try this, but what I use the most is a thin, metal cookie spatula. You may use any thin, dull, blade type tool. You will need glue. I have used Tacky or Sobo with success. An X-acto knife or a single-edge razor blade for edge trimming. A dull butter knife or old style table knife (non serrated) can be handy to use instead of the spatula at times. Scissors, paper towels, needle and thread perhaps.
Fabric Used: The body of this shoe is covered in a silk matka from FabricMart. The heel is covered in a faux leather available in pieces the size of a sheet of paper. I probably used less than a third of a sheet.
Generally it is easiest to use a fabric which is fairly thin and untextured, but with enough pattern that any irregularities of your shoe surface or glue application will not be noticeable. I've used cotton, silk crepe de chine, polyester silky, polyester georgette, and now matka, which is by far the thickest of the fabrics, and also the most fragile. As you will be stretching the fabric quite a bit on the bias, this may be a consideration.
Covering the Shoe: Cut a piece of your fabric in a square, large enough to drape over and cover your shoe on the bias. Now is the time to consider the placement of any print or pattern element of your fabric.
Use your spatula or other thin tool to pry the edge of the sole slightly away from the shoe all around, including the seam between the heel and shoe. You will be tucking fabric into this opening.
Spread glue onto the toe area of your shoe. (I use a dauber made from a small piece of paper towel to spread the glue evenly.) Smooth the fabric over the toe of the shoe and begin tucking the excess into the seam. Once you have it slightly in the seam in the glued area, trim the excess fabric from the area and tuck in the excess.
Continue around each side in this fashion. You will at some point cut straight through the center of your square on the bias line almost to the front of the shoe opening. This will allow you to continue to glue your fabric smoothly.
At the back, you will glue the instep side so that it overlaps the CB line by a little, and trim. The outstep side will be turned under on the CB line and glued to imitate a seam.
Trim the fabric around the shoe opening to perhaps 1/2 to 5/8 inch and clip so that it will lie flat. Glue this down.
At this point, you can use some kind of tape to give a more finished appearance to the inside of the shoe. I do not do this, as I've never found a tape that held up, I've never had a problem with the fabric becoming loose, and I don't think extra layers on the inside of the shoe are probably what I want.
Covering the Heel: For a cloth covered heel, you will take a small bias piece and do exactly as you did for the shoe itself, either tucking the fabric under a continuous sole at the front of the heel, or making a faux seam there, as you did at CB.
The leather covered heel was a little trickier, and I made an approximate paper pattern, cutting out only half of it fully in the leather. As you will be molding the leather to the heel shape, it is almost impossible to get a completely accurate paper pattern, as you don't know how much the leather will stretch before you begin. I had to manipulate my leather sheet for a while, and warm the back of it with an iron to get it to become a little bit pliable. Real leather would probably be much easier. Cut out the actual shape for the half of the heel on the outstep side of the shoe, as this will show the most, and it is easiest to make a completely smooth cut before you begin gluing.
Begin gluing on the outstep side. You will probably have to hold the leather on the heel for a little while, smoothing all the while, before you can pull on it hard enough to really smooth it to the other side without pulling it away from the first side. As you are sure of your placement, you may need to clip into some of the leather that will be trimmed, to allow it to lie flat as you work, so you can judge your next move. Glue and trim when you are sure you will not need to move the leather any more, and that's it. It is possible to tuck the leather toward the seam, and into it if it's not too thick.
Trimming: Trim opportunities would seem to be endless. Half the fun of these is figuring out what kind of ornament you want on your shoes. You can use the same fabric, a different fabric, yarn, metal pieces, buckles, flowers, jewelry, etc. The method of attachment depends on your choice. I've never used hot glue, but I don't see why you couldn't if you were sure you wouldn't need to move anything.
My trim for this pair was made from a hank of coordinated hand-dyed yarns and fibers that I purchased from a local shop. There was about 2 yards of each yarn. I cut the total length in half and used one half for each shoe. I twisted the yarns together until they rolled, and then shaped them into a nominal rectangle. I attached the rectangle to a smaller matka rectangle by hand stitching. It can be a little difficult to stitch directly to your shoe, depending on the fabric, and it's best to have the trim secured in the shape you want, before you attach it to the shoe itself.. The matka was quite easy, but a thinner fabric often is glued so securely to the shoe, and has no real "heft" to it that it's very hard to get your needle through. It's best not to sew completely through to the inside of the shoe, if possible. The small bow is made from 3 half-inch bias organza strips, and a button finishes the trim.
Conclusion: I'm glad I did these, as I had forgotten how much fun it is. These shoes are not made for hard wear, but they will stand up to quite a lot. I would suggest a waterproofing spray if you think there's much chance of their getting wet.
Some of the variations I've done include using a detachable flower ornament as trim, leaving the heel the original color, covering only the heel and adding a matching bow on the toe, using twisted fabric and beads as trim, using 3-dimensional fabric shapes and metal rings as trim. There are photos of several more pairs at the end of the linked gallery.
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