Top Ten?

[Lisa Laree]

I started to mention this on the Tim Gunn thread, but decided it needed a topic all its own.

There was a mention of Tim's list of 'Ten Wardrobe Essentials' on that topic; this is the list as I pieced it together:

1) Black Dress
2) Trench Coat
3) Day Dress
4) Dress Pants
5) 'Sweatsuit Alternative' ()
6) White Shirt
7) Cashmere sweater
Eight) Skirt
9) Jeans
10) Blazer

Sewing fashionista extraordinaire Erica B. listed her Top Ten Fall Trends...not garments, per se, but 10 elements that she wants to incorporate into her wardrobe.

Anyway, it got me thinking in terms of 10.  I've done SWAP before, so I've got that concept down pretty well, but that's an integrated collection, not the 'essentials'.  In fact, in sewing SWAP sometimes I miss the ubiquitous essentials and now I'm kinda feeling the need to fill in the gaps. 

And I really need to clean out my closet.

So, I'm thinking I need to come up with a list of 10 things I need to keep the wardrobe as flexible as possible.  It'll give me something to think about whilst I sew up the cut-and-in-progress stack of items that I selected mainly because they used a lot of fabric.  Some are wardrobe needs, to be sure, for me and for other folks in the family; some are Christmas gifts, but some are just, um, experiments. And some is volunteer sewing that's just plain grunt work.   If I get through the whole queue, I'll be within spitting distance (and I mean less than 5 yards) of parity. 

I don't have a list yet, but I'm thinking about it...and it may be '10 things MY wardrobe (as opposed to 'every wardrobe') needs'.

So...anybody wanna play?  come up with a '10 things' list and set about making it happen?

[Marji]

Great topic Lisa,
I'll be giving it some thought today as I work on finishing my sisters mini-SWAP for end-of-summer wear in Florida.

[joan71]

Thanks, Lisa for starting this.  I am in the process this week-end to come up with a list to fill in the blanks for my personal  Fall/Winter sewing, so the timing is great.

I am making a list as I go along of the zippers/linings/buttons etc. for each garment and watch for sales on those.  Got the fabric, I think.

I sew a lot for my family too, so I am hoping I can get the right priority going here.  It is hard to resist when teen-age DGD's come to me
needing something.  They like to snoop in my stash and invariably see something that would "just be perfect as ........."

[cmarie12]

Lisa ~ it will be fun and interesting to watch you complete this list.  And I would definitely like to know what you would place on your top 10 list.  I pretty much have Tim's top ten list down so that is not my challenge for fall/winter sewing.  Mine is to learn how to un-SWAP!   

[Lisa Laree]

I haven't even gotten to the closet yet; I hadn't updated my stash data base in, um, a really, really long time... , so I've spent today digging around in bins, snipping swatches, and typing.

I actually think I've got a few things listed more than once, but I'm tired of looking at it.  Everything is in there, finally.  Whew.

And I saw so many beautiful fabrics that I want to make up.  Immediately!

Well, that's not gonna happen.

But I was thinking about TNT patterns.  Before I start cranking out wardrobe basics, I think I need a list of TNT patterns.

I have quite a few:

T-shirt: Jalie 2005, Loes Hinse Cowl Top

Woven shell: Modified Loes Hinse City Dress bodice

Knit shell: Loes Hinse Cowl top, Loes Hinse Sweater set shell, Textile Studios Monaco shell, Kwik Sew 2948 Mock T

Flared skirts: Loes Hinse Gore Skirt Group, Cutting Line Designs Farewell to Arms skirt, Kwik Sew 3180 gored skirt w/godets

Pull on pants:  Loes Hinse Oxford Pants

Skinny leg pants: La Fred Daphne pants

I'm working on a straight trouser-style skirt and a basic button-up shirt pattern; I've got a lined jacket pattern that needs the muslin alterations transferred to it so I can give it another try.  That's nine...NINE!...garments to have TNT patterns for.  I'm thinking I should also have a TNT pattern for a basic princess dress and a sheath.  And I want to get a jeans pattern tweaked (now I'm up to 11, maybe I'll pick ONE dress)

So that's my first Top Ten list...how about you?  What are the Top Ten TNT (Tried-N-True) patterns every fashion sewing enthusiast should have at her beck and call?

[blue mooney]

Good topic, Lisa. I look forward to inspiration from everyone's top 10s. Will have to give some consideration to what mine are.

I don't wear many skirts or dresses, so my necessary pattern list is pretty short - trousers, narrower pants, shirt, shell, T, jacket. I have TNT patterns for all of those except the T. I have one selected from an old WOF that I need to trace and try.

I would buy my jeans and cashmere sweater....but since I live where it's hot most of the year, I think I'll let the cashmere go and substitute some other top. It will be a challenge to think of a cooler equivalent - cashmere says "luxury" without necessarily saying "dressy" - makes it really versatile.

[cmarie12]

Lisa,

I think every sewist should have (if it fits into their wardrobe and lifestyle)  a TNT dress pattern, pants pattern, t-shirt/top pattern, skirt (straight and flared), jacket, twinset & blouse pattern.  I guess I truly believe that because I have TNT patterns in all of these categories and then some! 

[Terri K]

I found this in a shopbop.com fall 07 catalog that just came today - the first of Erica B.'s trends and just had to share it - stunning look!  And for her 2nd trend - the color purple,  I just posted my black raspberry Bolero jacket on the Loes Hinse topic.   Erica, I'm going to your blog first for style advice!



On my list are drapey, wide-leg pants that hang from the hip (Erica's #7 trend) that make you look ten pounds lighter, elegant jackets and sophisticated tops.   

[Kira]

My top 10 must make pieces, in no particular order, for my pear shaped body:

1. Shirt Dress in a medium to dark color (M/D)
      HP Plain and Simple Shirtdress

2. Hepburn type timeless pants in M/D
      HP Razor Sharp

3. Shirt in cream/ecru
      HP Great White Shirt

4. Woven Tank Top in cream/ecru
       I've got a funky Patrones in progress at the moment

5. Trench/Military Jacket
        NL 6617  http://www.simplicity.com/dv1_v4.cfm?design=6617; Wool crepe

6. Chanel Jacket in rich colored boucle
         I've got at least 3 patterns for a starting point, and I'm following Cheri Dowd's "Shortcuts to a Designer Jacket" article

7. Tall boots in Black
         Dansko FINALLY released their Risa in Leather (I don't wear suede on account of the furkids)

8. A-line skirt in M/D
         HP A-line

9. Khaki's
         One of my Burda's

10. The perfect T-shirt (asst. colors, but definitely several to match or blend with M/D items)
         Jalie 2005

These are planned for my classic, forever wear wardrobe.  They are boring to make, but I get so much wear out of them when I finish just one item.  These are definitely the types of items to batch process.

As for fabric, weeeeell, I have everything but a lighter colored wool for the trench/military jacket and the wool boucle.  I've picked out my crepes from Denver Fabrics.  The wool boucle is being very stubborn as I dislike so many that I see.  They are either too boring (white and black) or too cool (pink, pink, and more pink!) or too lightly colored.  I'll find one eventually, I've got an acrylic boucle to practice on until then.

Kira 

[Terri K]

A couple variations of knit tunics are on my list.   I got the Loes Hinse V neck tunic pattern to make that one, but today grabbed this Butterick @ 99 cents at Hancocks



I think view D is a real winner.  It gives you a great long look over pants worn like the model in bottom center photo.   Size medium only takes 1 3/4 yd of 60" knit for the tunic with the fabulous cowl.    I'm also a fan of 3/4 length sleeve tops so that's a no-brainer casual look for me.    I can make this in a couple of hours    since there are no facings, just the cowl folded wrong sides together serged to the neck, then hemmed at armhole edges and bottom.

[booglass]

Oooooh I am salivating over the Butterick pattern.  I am taking notes on all these fabulous suggestions for my next trip to the states. 

And today I bought a grey high waisted skirt with an interesting pleat design element at Bennetton......I feel so stylish. 

bonnie

[PeggyL]

Lisa - great topic!!  EricaB is way more fashionable (as in the best dressed SAHM that I "know") and a lot younger.  I have got quite a few things on my list for fall:

Pants - Nancy Erickson's pants pattern:  I have a pair cut out in a new size (smaller!!! and am going to work on perfecting the fit to a TNT.  This pattern fits me best right out of the envelope.  I have converted it per Nancy's directions to flat front, straight leg pants.  I have about 5 fabrics to make and am planning a pants marathon (and one is a purplish wool!)

Skirts - again I'll use Nancy Erickson's skirt pattern.  Lots of options and I have made it several times before.

Vest (or sleeveless jacket   I have seen these in catalogs and am going to add one to the wardrobe.  Nancy Erickson's 1962 pattern.

Wrap Dress (Vogue Pattern) - ordered the fabric from Gorgeous Things over the weekend.

Princess Seam Dress - have an old Stretch & Sew Pattern I would love to try.  This styles always seems like a basic.

White Blouse - have a great RTW one (great in it never needs ironing)

T-Shirts - have lots of patterns for that.  I have Pamela's Perfect T-shirt traced and ready to try as well as the twin-set

Trench Coat - don't need but if I change my mind it will be RTW

Cashmere Sweater - DH read in the newspaper last year it was the "perfect" Christmas gift and bought me one for Christmas.  I told him that could become a tradition.

Jeans - I'lll buy a dark wash pair.

Blazer/Jacket - I have a great Cynthia Guffey jacket I would like to make and a PR buddy is going to help!

This list will take me a long time to complete!!!  I think that covers the top ten.  I also am making one of those cute short swing jackets for my DD.  Not a good look for someone in their late fifties.  And my shoes won't have the heels that EricaB can wear!

[booglass]

SWEAT SUIT Alternative - I love a great velour sweat suit for flying or just hanging out but let's face it they've gotten a bit pase (sp?). 

I have a long flight coming up this weekend and I searched here in Costa Rica for a alternative.  I have plans to try and make a nice dress out of stretchy fabric but until I have the material, a pattern and the necessary sewing chops I am stuck with off the rack.  But I did find something that I think will be stylish and comfortable.......

Cotton wide leg pants with a wide tie belt.  You can dress them up with a cute shirt and blazer or dress them down with a tee and shrug.  Either way they have room for movement and still let you look put together.  IMO 

bonnie   

[nolasewer]

Great topic Lisa- it will help me double check my SWAP plans!

Bonnie- this summer when we flew to my parents' and changed planes several times I saw a lot of women wearing loose, flowing skirts- some were prarie/broomstick style, but not all- with tanks and t-shirts.  Most had a jacket to keep warm on the plane with.  Really, its a comfy, yet pulled-together look.  I did learn it was not a good time to break in new shoes- we were running to catch two of our planes and my feet were torn up with broken blisters by the time we got home.  While they are cute shoes and I'm sure I looked fab while dashing thru the airports, I was in PAIN!

As for the Black dress- I need to make one that can be dressed down or up- I've got one LBD but it really doesn't do casual at all- its very much a dressy dress(no sequins, but its obviously not a casual dress).  Anyone got some pattern suggestions?
 
Martha

[Karrol]

Well, I have to say I have all of Tim Gunn's top ten pieces except a a trench coat. I've been thinking about buying one, but I live in Southern California - it doesn't (hardly) ever rain, doesn't get cold. I already have several other coats and jacket, so I think I'll have to pass on this item. But the rest are all great starters. Here's some things I've been thinking lately I need in my wardrobe.
1. A red pencil skirt. Actually I want to make this Red 80's skirt . I found this clipping in a bunch of stuff I was clearing and it just looks right to me right now, except too long. I'll use McCalls 5473 view C. It's a dead ringer.
2. Black high heel boots. I have a pair that are flat riding boots, but they just don't work with a lot of stuff.
3. A shirtdress. Classic. . . dress it up or down, for work, weekend, dates, whatever.
4. Wrap tops. I have one and I really like how it looks on me. I need more of this style with & without collars and with long sleeves. Here's a beauty of a vintage pattern Vintage Vogue 1955 and this folkwear Nepali blouse #111
5. Tops with high collars in back, but v's in front. Like the vintage vogue above. I think this collar looks good on me now. I'm a little heavy and it helps give slimmer efect to my face (I think - I may be delusional though!) Turtlenecks - not so much.
6. Flying in the face of my above coat comments, I'm really liking the look of a pea coat. maybe it's that double breasted thing again, I don't know!
7. I do however, REALLY want a 40's Tourista jacket - bright red felted wool with Mexican embroidered motifs like this: Tourista Jacket I've been researching, collecting patterns and embroidery transfers from the 40's. It's finally time to make it!
8. Wide legged, hollywood waist trousers in a nice tweed. No cuffs since I'm only 5'4". Really channeling the 40's ala Kate Hepburn (wishing I was thin like her! )
9. Oxford tie shoes with heels. Again with the restyled 40's, I'm seeing these again and really liking them. Here's some Newport News oxfords
10. More than any of the above, I really want to loose about 20 pounds. So all of the above will look better! I'm working out 3 times a week right now and it feels good. I've lost 3 pounds - not much but I'm determined!

There's my 10 for Fall 2007!

edited to fix links

[blue mooney]

9. Oxford tie shoes with heels. Again with the restyled 40's, I'm seeing these again and really liking them. Here's some Newport News oxfords

I love the new oxfords! I've been looking for some for years. Now that they've come in style, I'm going to buy several pairs to stash for upcoming years when they go out again. Maybe I'll get some larger sizes, too, in case my feet grow!

[joan71]

love the new oxfords! I've been looking for some for years.

My thoughts exactly.  Just a few weeks ago I searched a few sites looking for some.  I see in the e-mail I recieved today from Nordstrom there are a few.  Look Here I saw a couple of pair with 2 inch heels that would work for me.  One thing that my feet demand and that is comfort for the long haul.

Joan

[Kira]

My sweatpants alternative is a pair of long knit pants based on a gaucho pattern.

I used Kwik Sew 3384 http://www.kwiksew.com/Patterns/P3368_3391/3384.cfm. 

Granted, my muslin was absolutely hilarious.  Talk about clown pants.  However, after darting out close to 11" from the hem circumference, I have a pair of almost straight, wide-legged knit pants.  They have a softened Hepburn silhouette.  Which is what I was going for, but I'm always surprised to end up with what I want ... considering how often the opposite happens.

I've even worn my knit Hepburn's to work, and don't feel sloppy.  (I'm not sure what everyone else thinks, though.)

Thin knits for summer, thicker knits for winter.  And when they start to pill, I'll have very comfy lounging pants at home.

Kira

[nolasewer]

My sweatpants alternative is a pair of long knit pants based on a gaucho pattern.

I used Kwik Sew 3384 http://www.kwiksew.com/Patterns/P3368_3391/3384.cfm. 

Kira, thanks for the pattern! I've been looking for an easy gaucho pattern to convert to a skirt- my sister gave me a skirt a while back that was styled like gauchos at the waist, but I lost 30lbs and it literally falls off me now.

Martha

[Karrol]

I see in the e-mail I recieved today from Nordstrom there are a few

Joan, thanks for that link! I really don't want to wear 4" heels either ~ The Max Stduio oxfords are great, but that concave heel is a little weird. At least they're only 2"!

[Karen]

I love 3-4" heels. I swear I stand taller - figuratively, not just literally! - in them and they affect my whole attitude/confidence.  Somehow someway these http://shop.nordstrom.com/c/6011508/0~2376778~2372808~6011502~6011505~6011508?origin=high_heeled_oxfords Claudia Ciuti oxfords are coming to live in my closet!

I like the top ten idea. You often read about top picks or such in fashion mags but I think the ideas here are better thought out.  That Butterick pattern is one I've gone back to a few times....may just have to pick it up.  My Joann's flyers were tossed, aren't there some patterns on sale now?

[nolasewer]

My Joann's flyers were tossed, aren't there some patterns on sale now?

Karen-
 Joann's had Butterick on sale last week- this week its Simplicity and Hancock's has McCall's on sale.  $1.99 and $0.99 respectively.

-Martha

[Lisa Laree]

As for the Black dress- I need to make one that can be dressed down or up- I've got one LBD but it really doesn't do casual at all- its very much a dressy dress(no sequins, but its obviously not a casual dress).  Anyone got some pattern suggestions?

I've got a couple in my 'Under consideration' pile. One is Vogue 8319, the other is Burda 7972.  Actually, I traced/altered the top view on the Burda pattern to use to make a muslin to test the fit.  Either one would be a great LBD, and it could be dressy or not, depending on the fabric and/or accessories.

[joan71]

love 3-4" heels. I swear I stand taller - figuratively, not just literally! - in them and they affect my whole attitude/confidence.  Somehow someway these http://shop.nordstrom.com/c/6011508/0~2376778~2372808~6011502~6011505~6011508?origin=high_heeled_oxfords Claudia Ciuti oxfords are coming to live in my closet!

Karen, I know what you mean about the feeling when wearing high heels.....wonder what the ingredients are that manifest that feeling.

Love your choice of the Claudia Citui oxfords......go for it.  They will make you feel like a million bucks.

[Karrol]

Karen, those are some wicked fierce shoes - LOVE!  I can handle 3", but not so much over that. I'm thinking the Joan and David suede ones in charcoal grey are for me.  Here's a link for you all ~ top ten for fall Dressing Well.com she has booties in her list, and menswear pants, too. But didn't we already have navy and black last year? And there is no way I'm wearing anything quilted! I am lumpy enough already!

[LauraTS]

That's a nice article - I like the idea of the colored patent accessories, but I don't know where they'd fit in my wardrobe. I'm afraid I got rid of all my menswear-ish vests after the last time they were in style, but I love the look of a vest so maybe I'll have to buy or make one.

[Karen]

Wicked... that's the word for them     When I first saw them I thought those are some very sexy wicked witch of the west shoes toned down slightly by the white.  My bd's on Halloween, I think it's a perfect fit...

If Vogue 8319's the one I'm thinking, it's a perfect basic dress, one I made for a wedding with black velvet bottom, burnout top (warning, they have a facing on it, plan a workaround if you plan to use a sheer) 

I am seeing lots of menswear pants and subtle plaids,some are too slouchy for me, but I think an easy comfortable fit could be had in the fabrics with LaFred's Talia pant, love that one.

[nolasewer]

Thanks for the suggestions on the LBD- its one wardrobe staple that I don't really have and RTW dresses are hard to fit on my long torso....

  I love the shoes- not something I'd wear, but love them just the same!

-Martha

[Lisa Laree]

  I love the shoes- not something I'd wear, but love them just the same!

sigh.

I've been wishing I could wear some fierce shoes, but fierce shoes would land me in traction.  2 1/2 inches is about the highest I can go these days, without my lower back complaining the next day.

And I didn't see any of those fierce shoes in a wide width.

While discussing shoes with a friend not too long ago, I made the statement, 'Life is too short to wear shoes that hurt my feet!'  My friend looked at me and laughed...she'd made the decision that life was too short to wear shoes that aren't cute!  Didn't matter if they hurt...as long as they're cute...

Me, I'm still looking for shoes that don't hurt and are reasonably cute.   Needless to say, I have a very minimal shoe wardrobe....


At least I can make my clothes and get something that fits 

[blue mooney]

If Vogue 8319's the one I'm thinking, it's a perfect basic dress, one I made for a wedding with black velvet bottom, burnout top (warning, they have a facing on it, plan a workaround if you plan to use a sheer) 

Karen, I'm thinking maybe you're thinking of Vogue 8313. At least I hope you are, because I'm thinking about it for my LBD and have a question. If you make the upper part of the dress from a lightweight fabric (like your burnout), is the weight of the dress too heavy for the shoulder seams? Did you use a waist stay?

This is the pattern I'm wondering about:

[Karen]

You're right, 8313 shown is what I used.  I didn't use a waist stay, had no problem with the weight (I made it above knee and am small, the velvet was rayon velvet, not too heavy so there wasn't a lot of weight to support).  The one thing to work around was finishing the neck which wasn't a problem, but (and I'm going on memory here - always dangerous!) they have the zipper extending into the sheer area and with a facing it works, but who wants a facing in a sheer?   I know I had to do something else there.   Went together pretty quickly and easily and fit well, I'm thinking maybe I should pull out a couple wool knits I have tomake some quick things for work from it.

[Liana]

A very common way to get around a zipper deal like that is to stop the zipper at the top of the opaque area, then either use a button and loop closure at the top of the sheer, or several buttons/loops above the zipper.  It would depend on how long the sheer area is, and whether it lays flat with one button at the top, or if you need more.  You could probably change to a side seam zipper too, and skip the whole problem.

[booglass]

As many of you know I am just back from a quick trip to Italy ad while there I people watched some fantastically dressed women and have a few must haves for my own personal list;

1) Trench Coat - but skip the khaki and go for black or even better a deep rich blue-red

Lots of women were sporting a great overcoat that added a panache to their outfit.  I saw one woman with a shortish red trench and thought about mugging her for that fantastic coat!

2) Classic Black Flats - Invest in one pair of go anywhere look great anytime black flats.  They look amazing with jeans, crops, skirts etc.  A nice classic look that has a little something. 

3) One fabulous accessory - Have on great splurge accessory item that can brighten up any outfit.  I saw lots of women who used this approach.  It could be a scarf, belt, purse, necklace.

On this trip I decided to treat myself to a Burberry belt with classic khaki plaid and touch of black patent leather.  Crazy expensive but I love it.  It is great with jeans, dress slacks etc.  I am really hard on purses and I felt that this belt would literally last me a lifetime.   

That is all I can think of at the moment. 

bonnie

[lessalt]

Bonnie, You are right on target for must haves. I just returned from Paris and saw a lot of flats - but also in the stores lots of the kind of shoes Joan was obsessing over. I must admit that, like Lisa's friend, in the past I have worn shoes that weren't comfortable because they were cute and 3" heels were my work day shoes. Over the years the bunions I developed made heels impossible. I wore ugly wide shoes until I had the bunions fixed. I'm still limited on the types of shoes I can wear so I'm glad flats are coming back. It's difficult sometimes to be fashionable when fashion is uncomfortable.

[booglass]

I have always been a huge fan of flats.  I own plenty of heels but flats are a staple, especially ballet flats. 

If you are looking for a good quality fashion-esque flat I recommend the Air Josey from Cole Haan.  They are part of the G Series which use Nike Air technology to ensure comfort. I bought a pair in black with a little metallic detail and they are fabulous.  On my upcoming trip to the states I plan to buy a brown on neutral tone ballet flats.

Also, I forgot to include a good pair of black boots which I fully intend to buy in the US.  All the styles I find in Costa Rica are very pointy and very high heeled.  I want almost flat, maybe a kitten heel, and rounded but not outright pointy.

bonnie