Re: Favorite Lining Fabrics?

[Marji]

essay long answer question:
What is your favorite lining fabric?

We're getting into the season where more garments are lined again, and I just had to take stock of my linings, looking for lining for a fabric I didn't have lining for already, and got to thinking about it.

[Lisa Laree]

Ooo, great question, Marji!

I have been in love w/rayons (Bemberg and the like), but have had some problems with them.

Because I'd read repeatedly that Bemberg-type linings could be washed if they were pre-shrunk, I've used them in washable garments and they've demonstrated progressive shrinkage...even though I washed them before construction.  I have a couple of tops that are just about not wearable due to the distortion of a shrunken lining.  Favorites, I might add.

But  I have a linen dress that's lined w/hang loose and I hate that plasticy poly lining next to my skin...I want something breathable.

And I hate dry cleaning.

So...any advice?  Could I get away w/just washing the Bemberg about 10 times before cutting it? 

[sewsy]

Ambience, then silk (when and if I can get it on sale).

[LindaF]

Lisa,
Are you using Ambience Bemberg lining?  Does it say rayon on the end of the bolt?  I am thinking of Liana's incidence where she found Bemberg polyester.
Anyway, thanks for mentioning that there is some progressive shrinking.  I have not experienced this.  Or I should say if it has progressively shrunk it has not affected the garment that I can notice.  But I think I'll give my lining another run through the washing machine before I use it.


And I prefer Ambience lining also.  I used silk once but it was not smooth enough to fit comfortably.  So now I look for smooth silk for  lining.  I do have some quality polyesters from the 80's that I plan on using for linings someday too. But I refuse to use Posh and other polyester linings from JoAnn's.  I used a polyester lining once and never again.  The stuff does not breathe.

Linda

[Lisa Laree]

Linda, one of the lining pieces was Ambiance (gold stamp on the selvedge and all); the other was rayon lining from Hugo Boss (got it from Michael when he had a bunch really cheap).  But it handled the same as the Ambiance.  Of course, they both had 'dry clean only' instructions; I was going on what I'd read on various boards that it really was washable if it were pre-shrunk.

I suppose I might add that both these tops have been worn quite a bit and are 2 -3 years old.

[AnnRowley]

Bemberg rayon has got to be my favourite - the best quality here (UK) is called Bremsilk, which seems to the same as Ambience.

I've never had a problem with progressive shrinking, although I do wash it before use. I wonder if it's because I don't use/own a dryer?  Mine is always line dried. I love its "cool" feel and prefer it to silk for a loose lining.

But silk in a wool jacket or coat feels so luxurious even if it doesn't wear very well.  I treat myself sometimes...

[blue mooney]

I'm just the opposite of sewsy. Silk, then Ambiance.
I've also lined summer stuff with batiste, but that's not always appropriate, so I won't say it's a favorite.

[Lisa]

Hi all!

This has been pulled from the "Favorite Fabrics" thread since someone looking for lining suggestions might not think to look there...btw, both threads will be moved to "fabric" at some point in the future!

(Nice topic Marji! )

Lisa

[zippianna]

I prefer rayon for linings and always wash and dry it first even if the garment is made of something that must be dry cleaned.  I like my linings to have a surface that is slippery, for ease of movement, but that isn't cold feeling.   Silk is lovely but I have issues not related to cost or comfort with silk.

[mamafitz]

ambiance is my favorite.  in fact, it's pretty much the only lining i use.  i haven't noticed progressive shrinkage, though the skirts i've lined are not very fitted, so i doubt i'd even notice if there was some shrinkage.  if i plan on dry cleaning (like a tailored jacket.  i WON'T put something like that in the washer!), i don't prewash the ambiance either.

i bought an ambiance color card from somewhere (the sewing place?  maybe it was denver fabrics), and now it's easy peasy to get a nice match or coordinating color.  i usually order it from nancy erickson.

i've used satin to line winter coats. 

[redhead]

Baer Fabrics in Louisville, KY will sell you a color card also.

[annenet]

I love using silk but I worry about it's ability to hold up if it's China silk. I will use charmese and silk crepe in some of the more upscale pieces I make but mostly use Ambience. I haven't had any shrink problems but I wash everything in cold and line dry anything lined of a fabric I don't want to roll around in the dryer.

[Doris W. in TN]

Ambiance Rayon lining is my favorite.   

Lisa,  I have not had the progressive shrinkage.   I used it to underline a blouseweight rayon several years ago to make a sleeveless column dress and it was washed & line dried a gazillion times.   Ditto for a cotton mock wrap skirt.   Normally when I use it in a washable garment I wash on hot, machine dry, spray starch the heck out of it and perhaps that takes care of any residual shrinkage.

[Lisa Laree]

Wow.  Well, hm...wonder what I've done wrong with it, then?  Maybe the hot water on that first wash is the trick; I wouldn't have used that. 

I just washed them as I expected to wash the final garment.

I'll wash it in hot next time... 

[fzxdoc]

For me, it's silk charmeuse, hands down.  It feels so luxurious.  I buy it in the basic colors whenever I find it on sale. Ambiance is a distant second.

Kathryn

[Marji]

Interesting responses, thank you.
I agree Kathryn, for jackets I like silk charmeuse.
But for pants I also prefer Ambiance.
Interestingly, no one has mentioned silk habotai (china silk). It is hands down my favorite for dresses - it is tissue weight, adds no bulk, and is (to my way of thinking) more comfortable (I'm almost always too hot) than rayon.
Susan Khalje suggested to me to try silk georgette for pants lining, and when I was snoop shopping in Boston last year, I went into several designer boutiques and noted that Ralph Lauren was lining his white wool pants with silk georgette. It's more opaque than an Ambiance and I understand that because of the weave structure, there is an inherent give in the fabric without having any lycra or other stretch fibers. I'm going to try it.

[fzxdoc]

I like China silk for sheath dresses, too, Marji, but it doesn't feel as nice as charmeuse. I don't use CS much for pants lining, though, because, as Annenet mentioned, I'm not certain it can stand up to the wear.

That's a great idea about using silk georgette for pants lining, Marji.  I'm going to give that a try as well.  Thanks for sharing that tidbit!

Kathryn

[Jennifer S.]

Ambiance is what I have used in the past for lining skirts and slacks.  Cotton Voile is great for lightweight cottons.  I used that for a recent summer dress.  When I have some more time to sew the coat I want, I bought some gorgeous silk charmeuse fabric from Kashi at Metro fabrics.

[vtmartha]

Marji,  If I were to buy silk georgette from Thai silks (where the choices are many), should I purchase the lightest weight (least expensive)?  Thanks.

[Marji]

Marji,  If I were to buy silk georgette from Thai silks (where the choices are many), should I purchase the lightest weight (least expensive)?  Thanks.

Martha, I just checked Thai Silks site and they have a pretty limited selection of georgettes - black or natural in 18/18.5mm or heavy georgette which IMO is way too heavy for lining, and too expensive.
I picked up some locally, however, Mood returns 96 choices when the word silk georgette is entered into their search box.
Mood Georgette 16mm

The china silk that I use to line dresses is 8mm - very light weight. The blouse weight Silk charmeuse that I use to line jackets is around 19mm, so I think that a 16mm georgette would be a very nice weight for pant lining.

other opinions / sources welcome

[vtmartha]

Thank you, Marji!

[stitchology]

Bemberg feels and looks wonderful and comes in so many colors that you can match anything. I also like good quality cottons with a smoothe finish, mostly for heavier pieces like jackets and coats. It's fun to have a wild print lining.

[LauraTS]

Can I have a dissenting opinion?  When I heard so many nice things about Bemberg/Ambience, I got a fair bunch of it via the fabrics co-ops. But I haven't really liked it that much - it wrinkles like crazy and I haven't noticed that much difference between it and the poly blend linings. Maybe my preshrinking process is flawed, but I like Hang Loose and the other poly linings better, when I need to use something slick. Otherwise I use batiste or self-line.

[NancyQW]

I know that Ambiance is supposed to be the end all, but it is not my favorite.  Well, I really don't have a favorite.  What I don't like about ambiance is that it wrinkles so badly.  I love it for dry clean garments, but because of my profession, I need to be able to wash most of my clothes.  I don't want to have to fuss with ironing my lining!  So, for pants and skirts, I am liking anit-cling polyester lining.  They wash well, don't wrinkle or shrink.  I don't line summer pants and so for winter pants, they don't get too "hot"  for me.  Silk is not readily available in my area, so I haven't really experimented with it for lining.  I am making a number of jackets for fall and will probably buy some charmeuse for at least on of them.

[mardel]

Interesting discussion.  I agree that there is nothing like silk charmeuse  for its purely luxurious feeling and I love it for jackets.  But I also have used chiffon, georgette, and silk crepe de chine for linings in jackets.  In recent years, as I have become more sensitive to heat, I find that charmeuse is sometimes too hot, those nice little floats that make it feel so luxurious also add to the heat-retaining properties, and I find that except in the winter, I sometimes prefer a crepe de chine as it is cooler, but it really depends on the project

I love china silk for dresses and I have used bemberg for pants and skirts but I also love georgette and have only recently been using it and not regularly.  A nice weight of cotton with a smooth finish can also be a nice lining in a skirt or summer dress.

[KathyB]

I need your opinions on what to use to line a dress made from silk chiffon and silk charmeuse. I have never made a dress from silk before ( my casual lifestyle doesn't support it). I have several Anna Sui fabrics that I need to sew up for a cruise. My first thought was to use some kind of silk, but then I thought of the cling factor. Then I thought that a beefier lining like a microfiber should be used for it's drape. Help!

[fzxdoc]

Kathy, it would be sad to line a natural fabric such as silk with a microfiber which does not like to breathe.  Is your dress cut on the bias or the straight of the grain? 

While lightweight fabrics tend to cling, lining with China silk may be just slippery enough to let the dress flow smoothly. I have many silk chiffon skirts lined with china silk and silk charmeuse, and they swish and sway just fine.  You might want to make up one Anna Sui chiffon in a skirt and see how you like the chiffon/silk lining combo. That may help you decide the best way to go for your dress.

Static cling can be a problem with silks, but since you'll be on a cruise, there should be plenty of humidity in the air to eliminate that.  Just in case, though, they sell Static Guard in small aerosol cans, too. 

HTH,
Kathryn

[KathyB]

Kathryn, thanks for the advice. I have a purchased silk dress lined with polyester and it is a little "sticky". I will be cutting on the grain, I am not brave enough to try sewing silk on the bias  .

[Terri K]

Another thing about the poly linings is that they don't press very well and they pucker when sewn.  I used a piece of poly charmeuse for some pocket lining yesterday and needed to press and understitch.   It matched the fabric very nicely but I had forgotten about those constraints.   As much as rayon and silk wrinkles,  it is the lining of choice for many good reasons 

[nanflan]

Another disserter here. I'm not a huge fan of Ambience either. My clothes look like I've slept in them by the end of the day if I line with it, so I find that poly holds up better for office wear. Heat isn't really an issue for me either. I live in a hot, dry climate which doesn't have some of the heat retention/breatheability issues that you folks in humid climates experience.

I have some RTW skirts with silk georgette linings and they're a lot of fun to wear, so I might consider silk for some of my flowy things.

I guess I'm just a polyester princess.