I Hate invisible zippers

[DeniseM]

OK, I am here to vent.  I do not know what the big fascination is with invisible zippers. I think they are clunky and add nothing to a garment's elegance. I know some of you will think I'm nuts or laugh at me because you have mastered the art of putting these wicked little closings in. But I've put them in twice and both times I have come away completely disatisfied with the way they look at the top. They always leave a little hole at the bottom of the zipper and a gap at the top of the neckline or waistband and it always requires another closure like a hook and eye to close that gap. And if you're working with a bias bound neck or waist, an invisible zipper just looks ugly. My skirt almost ended up as a wadder because I used an evil invisible zipper.

I think the most elegant zipper is a lovely hand-picked finish with a nice thread or even some beading.

Anyway, thanks for letting me vent. 

[Robin]

Really?
 

No, no no I am not laughing AT you ...  nor do I think you are nuts

But I love invisible zippers.  It was one of the first skills that made me feel like, Wow, now I can make ANYTHING!
I especially like the way my Pfaff zipper foot lets me get real close to close up the gap at the bottom.

OK, having said that 
You just need to use the techniques that work for you!
A hand-picked zipper wins out every time (if you have time!)
 

[Liana]

Denise,

I'm not laughing at you either, although I love invisible zippers on many things.  I also like hand-picked zippers, and I think they're fun to do, and often much quicker than any other kind of zipper, so I can understand why you like them too.  It's nice to have a varied repertoire though.   

[LindaE]

Denise.
I am not laughing either..  I understand your feelings..   

I believe you need to practice with Invisible zippers. 

I made Sandra Betzina's Bag there are 3 invisible zipper in it this is good practice in putting in these zippers.

I do love hand pick zippers just don't take the time to put them in myself I am usually in a hurry to get the garment done.   

 

[Marji]

Not laughing Denise, but I'll join the legions that adore invisible zips.

Check out this tutorial written by Els, of the Sewing Diva's. It may give you a different perspective on the install.
I believe there are situations that call for invisibles, situations that call for hand picked, and situations that call for a standard zipper installed by machine - as in a fly front or a handbag opening.

Good luck, and remember that the more often you put one in, the easier they'll get.

[fzxdoc]

Count me among the invisible zipper fans as well.  Once you get the hang of them, you may grow to like them, Denise.  OTOH, sewing should be as stress-free as possible, so if you have identified the invisible zipper as the burr under your sewing saddle, then by all means pick that burr out and go with the method you like best! 

Kathryn

[Betty F]

Hi All,

I have mixed feelings about invisible zips.  When they work, they are wonderful, and when they don't work it's maddening, but usually because I am just not careful enough.  Twice I have stitched too close to the coil, and the zipper would not open.  Live and learn I guess. 

The other day I was reading an article that said the interfacing should extend 1/8 inch beyond the seam line into the garment.  I notice that this is what Els has done in her photo showing the interfacing.  I think it is a small point that may make a big difference, especially for lightweight fabric.

[DeniseM]

Marji, thanks for the link. It's going to be very helpful.

My beef with these zippers is that you can never get the top to look really neat. The zippers themselves go in fine, but I've been working on garments that use bias binding at the neck/waistline and how do you cover up those clunky scraggly ends? You just have to stop the zipper farther down and add a hook/eye or something and I just don't think it looks very nice. I feel I have more control over the way a regular zipper falls at the neck/waistline opening. Maybe there's a trick I'm missing out on.

[Robin]

Do you have any RTW garments with good examples of invisible zippers?  If they can be sacrificed, take it apart and inspect how it was assembled.

I am big on forensic sewing (that's a new phrase, eh!)

Working with a seam ripper is something easy to do while haging out with DH, watching TV, whatever.  The thing I have found is there is more than one way to finish it off and I tend ot make my decisions based on the particular fabric, inrterfacing, and the finish of the seam where the zipper opens.

Just an idea...

[Marji]

Denise, have you ever used any of Kathleen Fasanella's tutorials?
IMO they are some of the most wonderful out there.
She's done a series on finishing the top of the zippers, going into the facing (or binding if that's what you're doing), that produce incredibly professional results.

It may take you more than once practicing to get it looking the way you're happy with, but if it doesn't cause too much stress, give it a go.

The zipper tutorials (lapped, centered and invisible)
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/process_review_lapped_zipper.html
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/lapped_zipper_template.html
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/lapped_zipper_construction.html
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/lapped_zipper_specs.html
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/centered_zipper_template.html
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/centered_zipper_construction.html
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/invisible_zipper_tutorial_pt1.html
http://www.fashion-incubator.com/mt/archives/invisible_zipper_tutorial_pt2.html
Be sure to read visitor comments at the close of each posting. .

[stitchntime9]

Not a fan of invisible zippers that aren't the invisible when you have that metal pull tab hanging down.

Gees, she did a lot of unnecessary work to put a simple zipper in.   

All she had to do was machine baste up the center, press open, pin or tape in place, and follow the woven line on the zipper to get a straight line...an old-fashioned, screw on  or a snap-on zipper foot with the toe to use as a guide gives you an accurate line.  Reading the package directions always helps.   

I like Nancy Zeman's wrap technique to finish the facing ends.  If you do your handstitching right, it looks the same as her sample with a lot less hassle.

[Karrol]

Marj, thanks for those links to Kathleen's tutorials. I love her centered application - it gives the nice clean look of an invisible.  I have a dress in progress that needs a new zipper now!

[Fox Valley Patti]

These are great!

I use the invisible zipper one regularly - but I never had the pressing jig portion of the instructions.

[BetsyV]

I prefer invisible zippers. I use the directions in the Coats & Clark package. How lame, but they work fine for me. I think I have an invisible zipper foot but I don't use it that way (the groove on the bottom over the coil); I use it as a regular zipper foot.

[sewsy]

Marji- thanks for the sewing links!

Denise, what Marji said!:   


Good luck, and remember that the more often you put one in, the easier they'll get.

[DeniseM]

thanks, Marji. Those are great tutorials. Her neckline finishes look perfect. Thanks for all the tips and sources.

[Mauigirl]

Love the link to the tutorials, it is wonderful to be able to see the 'how' as done by a 'Real Person'.  This makes all the difference, including the pressing jig, I detest pressing lines, as they really spoil the finish.  I am trying to get better at installing the invisible zipper, it is such a clean finish.  I also like the side seam zipper application for the clean finish look when appropriate.  Using a hook to ease the tension on the zipper is also a good thing.

[Karen]

I love invisible zippers.  When they're invisible.  I don't even mind the little hanging pull. 

Unless my memory just isn't right (entirely possible!) I used to put them in no problem with an old Singer straight stitch and those funky bright colored plastic inv. zipper feet you bought in a package on the notions wall.  Invisible!  Now it's a great day when they're truly invisible first time (or "overly invisible", meaning I got too close to the coil).  I don't know if  it's my eyes, the feet for machinery I use both or what, but it's just not the quick no brainer operation it once was.  I think I'll see if I can adapt the old plastic feet to current machine to see if that'll work.  I also find that with the plastic coil and polyester tape I don't get them pressed as well, I'm afraid of too much heat so I'm never working with as flat a zip as I'd like.

I'll watch some of those clips to see if there's additional help there, maybe it's just practice.  I'm making more skirts and dresses now so that will help.  Cynthia Guffey, whose work is meticulous, says she never uses them specifically because the pull at top renders them non-invisible.

Karen

[RobbieJo]

Invisible zips are OK if I can find a color so that the pull isn't too obvious.  I use my pintucking foot to put them in, lots of bottom grooves to choose from.

[Liana]

You can always use nail polish or model enamel to change the color of the pull.  

I don't find them obtrusive in most applications anyway.  If you're using a long zipper in a CB application for example, the tiny pull at the top pales in comparison to the length of the zipper stitching which would be obvious if you weren't using the invisible.  I think you just have to choose the zipper for the project, and decide what's going to be best, like you would with any other component.