Author Topic: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out  (Read 1145 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline CindyHa

  • Member
  • Posts: 58
Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« on: March 13, 2013, 09:31:44 PM »
I have a fitting issue that I can't find in fitting books.  If I'm wearing an open  jacket or cardigan, the back swings out, so if you were to look at me from the side, the back of the garment, at the hem, sits way away from my body.  The shoulders seams are right across the top of my shoulder, I don't find that they ride to the back or the front. 

The side seams on my garment don't hang straight up/down, they ride angle towards the back at the hem. 

I've read a bit about forward shoulder, and rounded back, and these don't seem to be quite what my issue is, or at  least that's what I think.   I do think my posture could use some improvement, my opinion is that my shoulders/back are slightly rounded.

What kind of adjustment might improve the way garments, especially jackets/cardigans hang on me?

Thanks!
Cindy

P.S.  Related to this, I really want to work on my posture, can anyone point me to web sites with good exercises/techniques?

Offline Linda 75142

  • Member
  • Posts: 1866
    • Seams Well Blog
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2013, 10:30:24 PM »
Can you post a photo?
Linda T

"The past is history, tomorrow's a mystery, today is a gift; that's the reason they call it the present." --Mike Ditka

www.seamswell.blogspot.com

Online Lisa

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3634
  • Eastern Nebraska
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #2 on: March 13, 2013, 10:35:14 PM »
Exactly what I was going to say, Linda! ;) :)

Cindy, Welcome to Stitcher's Guild!  If you haven't had a chance to take a look at the thread titled "Are you new?...Please read this thread first..." I hope you'll take a minute to do so.  You'll find links to information you'll find useful there! 

For example, you'll find a link to the Forum Decorum & Handbook (FAQ) which includes directions for lots of things.  Like how to post photos ;) ;D  We'd prefer that you use method #2, as described in this post in that thread.

Again, welcome to SG! We're happy to have you here. :SGheart:

Lisa
Found: a favorite silver bracelet that I hadn't seen for a while.  On its four quarters it says "Welcome Introspection; Accept Wisdom; Seek Illumination; Embrace Innocence."   It's like a "magic 8-ball" on the wrist...

Offline annlittle1

  • Member
  • Posts: 21
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #3 on: March 13, 2013, 11:39:19 PM »
It is really hard to tell without seeing the problem.  My first thought is that it might be a swayback problem.  You might try pinching out a dart from the center of your back over to the side seam.  Usually, a half inch inch at the wide end is enough.  Your description sounds like what I see on my friend when I help her.
Hugs, Phylly

Offline Doris W. in TN

  • Member
  • Posts: 2302
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2013, 12:32:27 AM »
Without seeing a photo, my guess is that you have a long upper back and the pattern needs to be lengthened there.   I have to do that on everything I make.  I don't have a dowager's hump and my upper back is rather  straight and hollow, but there it is.   Once I learned that is my problem and how to fix it,  I don't have jacket hems swinging away from my waist or hips anymore. 

Offline Susan in Saint John

  • Member
  • Posts: 1682
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #5 on: March 14, 2013, 12:57:52 AM »
Cindy,

If you make a muslin of a garment and mark on it the vertical grainlines and horizontal balance lines (above and below the bust, above and below the shoulder blades, bicep line on the sleeve), it can be helpful in diagnosing what's happening.  If a line isn't straight or plumb, do you need to add or take a tuck to make it level?

Lynda Maynard's ""Sew the Perfect Fit" on craftsy.com is helpful as is The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting by Sarah Veblen http://www.amazon.ca/Complete-Photo-Guide-Perfect-Fitting/dp/1589236084/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1363222419&sr=1-1

Although your problem is on the back, I wonder if you pulled up at the front shoulder if it would go away -- just one of multiple possibilities.

Offline WendyW

  • Member
  • Posts: 286
  • Gender: Female
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #6 on: March 14, 2013, 01:06:20 AM »
Without seeing a photo, my guess is that you have a long upper back and the pattern needs to be lengthened there.   I have to do that on everything I make.  I don't have a dowager's hump and my upper back is rather  straight and hollow, but there it is.   Once I learned that is my problem and how to fix it,  I don't have jacket hems swinging away from my waist or hips anymore.

SHOOT! THAT'S what I failed to do on my last jacket! I'd forgotten I did that on my fitting shell when I made my sloper.
Homeschool Mom and lifetime lover of sewing and crafts.

Offline makeupmaven

  • Member
  • Posts: 393
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2013, 08:55:25 PM »
Sounds like a high rounded back to me.

Offline PNR

  • Member
  • Posts: 30
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2013, 09:39:58 PM »
I am a "quiet member", so I may not have much credibility, but I sure do have experience with this. For years, I struggled with jackets swinging out. Yet, my back actually looks pretty erect. I tried many methods. The one that finally worked was to add a dart at the shoulder line (gives me added fullness at shoulder blade and added length). Every time I fail to do this, I'm disappointed with the garment. Every time I remember to do it, the garment fits like a dream.

So, my suggestion is that you stick to it. It will be worth the quest: the time, the muslin, the tracing paper, the angst. Since I find it hard to describe or explain things, I won't try. There are plenty of books and articles and SG members who can. Just offering words of encouragement to keep at it.
Paula

Offline clothingengineer

  • Member
  • Posts: 504
    • Clothing Engineer
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2013, 01:52:25 PM »
Like others I solved this issue by lengthening the pattern in the back only between shoulder and the bottom of the armhole. For me it is caused by prominent shoulder blades. On some patterns (like Vogue) I will leave the back alone but shorten the upper chest. I have decent posture but my chest tends to be shorter and narrower than most patterns and my back longer and broader. Like PNR I usually have to add a dart in the middle of the back shoulder seam or ease in some extra fullness to get a good fit.

Offline CindyHa

  • Member
  • Posts: 58
Re: Fitting issue - back of garments swing out
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2013, 02:09:26 PM »
Thanks everyone.   I hope to post a picture this week.   T

The jacket I was working on is so dark it was hard to photo what was going on.  I traced over the seam lines with the some white embroidery floss, which I think will help.

Cindy

 

Gorgeous Fabrics Fabric Mart Fabrics