Author Topic: critique: pencil skirt!  (Read 1648 times)

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Offline andrushechka

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critique: pencil skirt!
« on: January 11, 2013, 06:02:44 PM »
greetings again, fellow sewers! so amazing to see you're still responding to my post of last august -- i took a break from that project due to a full fall semester course load but have every intention of continuing work. in the meantime, i started a little project to keep my skills up through my winter break: a pencil skirt with an invisible zipper down the back, which i know i will get a lot of use out of. :)

for the most part the muslin fits-- per your recommendations, i have been using a tailor's ham, so i am even more pleased with my darts than usual! all the same, there are a few fit issues, as well as questions i have before working on the final piece.

  • the slot in the lower back of the pencil skirt doesn't seem to hang right. how do i correct that?
  • i there there is a little too much bulk in the butt of the skirt. thoughts? i assume i should just trim the center back of the pattern, along the butt area.

  • should i go for a facing, or a facing + lining? the final fabric will be a printed novelty cotton with a similar hand if that's any help!
  • what finishes should i choose, which respect to my hems and sewing allowances? last week i bought a pair of pinking sheers, but i am not convinced that is the best way to secure seams. based on my research and the responses to my previous post, i get the impression a hong kong finish is a good way to go, but i'm not sure how to go about it since i have read many different tutorials on the matter. i don't have a special fabric cutter, (if you know what i'm talking about...) but i do have bias tape. i am not, however, altogether sure what i'm supposed to do with it... like, do i fold it in half and press and stitch along each seam allowance? and if i do... how am i supposed to do that? it is impossible to pin!
  • should i be concerned with reinforcing this skirt in any way? i would like it to last for a few years at least!
  • do any of the experienced sewers of the forum have any tips for the turn-and-stitch hem? i believe that is the appropriate hem to finish my skirt, but i am finding it a little difficult to approach as far as stitching a nice even seam is concerned.

Offline Bunny

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Re: critique: pencil skirt!
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2013, 01:34:40 AM »
Your darts are too long and creating a bubble effect under your derriere. I almost think the two darts on each side may be too much and one dart would be a better fit for your slim hips. I would shorten the darts so they are almost an inch or less short of the fullest part of your "booty", have only one dart per side, and then take in any remaining fullness from the side seams. Perhaps others see things differently and hopefully will offer some comment for you. I love pencil skirts and you have a beautiful figure to wear one. The pattern just needs a bit of a tweak.

« Last Edit: January 13, 2013, 01:36:39 AM by Bunny »

Offline spookietoo

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Re: critique: pencil skirt!
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2013, 04:18:04 AM »
I agree that the darts are too long. I would leave all four darts as your upper booty is shaped much like my own used to be and four darts were easier to fit on a pencil skirt for me. From your reference to using a tailor's Ham to press your darts, I'm going to assume you were having puuckering issues with your darts. That is one issue I have never had(though there were plenty of others!) I also never used the "tie a knot" method of finishing a dart as darts on the backside in either slacks or a pencil skirt have too much pressure on them and the thread is easy to break if just knotted. I just end a dart with 3-4 stitches running along the fold and I backstitch them. The darts transition into the flat material easily when I do this.

As for waistband finish, a facing is nice on a pencil skirt especially if you tend to be short waisted (can't tell from the photos) and if your fashion fabric is about the same as your muslin I would definitely line the skirt. With a lining I would ZZ or overcast the edges as nothing screams "homemade" quicker to me than pinked edges showing thru a garment-plus pinking isn't particularly good at preventing raveling on its own.

I also wonder if the back vent shouldn't be a bit higher. These also tend to wear and hang nicer if they are faced. The extra weight of the fabric hangs more attractively.

Pencil skirts were always my favorite. (The zipper application looks great BTW.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2013, 04:21:18 AM by spookietoo »


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