greetings again, fellow sewers! so amazing to see you're still responding to my post of last august
-- i took a break from that project due to a full fall semester course load but have every intention of continuing work. in the meantime, i started a little project to keep my skills up through my winter break: a pencil skirt with an invisible zipper down the back, which i know i will get a lot of use out of.
for the most part the muslin fits-- per your recommendations, i have been using a tailor's ham, so i am even more pleased with my darts than usual! all the same, there are a few fit issues, as well as questions i have before working on the final piece.
- the slot in the lower back of the pencil skirt doesn't seem to hang right. how do i correct that?
- i there there is a little too much bulk in the butt of the skirt. thoughts? i assume i should just trim the center back of the pattern, along the butt area.
- should i go for a facing, or a facing + lining? the final fabric will be a printed novelty cotton with a similar hand if that's any help!
- what finishes should i choose, which respect to my hems and sewing allowances? last week i bought a pair of pinking sheers, but i am not convinced that is the best way to secure seams. based on my research and the responses to my previous post, i get the impression a hong kong finish is a good way to go, but i'm not sure how to go about it since i have read many different tutorials on the matter. i don't have a special fabric cutter, (if you know what i'm talking about...) but i do have bias tape. i am not, however, altogether sure what i'm supposed to do with it... like, do i fold it in half and press and stitch along each seam allowance? and if i do... how am i supposed to do that? it is impossible to pin!
- should i be concerned with reinforcing this skirt in any way? i would like it to last for a few years at least!
- do any of the experienced sewers of the forum have any tips for the turn-and-stitch hem? i believe that is the appropriate hem to finish my skirt, but i am finding it a little difficult to approach as far as stitching a nice even seam is concerned.