Author Topic: Knit fabric on bias?  (Read 1606 times)

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Offline tania-gru

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Knit fabric on bias?
« on: December 22, 2012, 11:05:43 AM »
What would be the advantage on putting patternpieces on the bias in knit fabrics? I am making a oop Vogue, 1331 A, and since I have been told repeatedly that knits do not have bias, I was wondering, since the fabric layout is so wasteful of fabric, but I will follow instructions if there is a reason for it.
The knit I am using have a bit of stretch on the widthwide grain on none on the lengthwise if that makes a difference.
Tania

Offline ejvc

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2012, 11:48:19 AM »
I would not cut knit on the bias for stretch.  I have some bias knit stuff and I always just think it looks weird; my only successful pieces are where it's a design element (eg stripes on the bias) rather than functional.
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Offline tania-gru

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #2 on: December 22, 2012, 11:50:36 AM »
Okay thanks. This is a mottled black purple colour wool knit, and I hate the thought of wasting that amount of fabric, so I am going to put the patternpieces on the lenghtwise grain.
Tania

Offline mcgintie

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #3 on: December 22, 2012, 02:24:05 PM »
Tania, people often post on this site about RTW knit garments that twist mysteriously. The problem is often that they are cut slightly on the bias - not deliberately, but usually a manufacturing fault. If you can see a definite knit stitch, then don't attempt a bias cut. I have cut knits across the grain, after making sure there is enough stretch.

Offline tania-gru

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #4 on: December 22, 2012, 06:06:17 PM »
This was a pattern in which the pieces were put on the bias of the knit. And yes, it was designed for knits. But I have now cut it out on the straight. First to avoid the twisting and second to preserve fabric, and there would have been no value added in the bias design as the fabric is a mottled colour with no pattern in it.
I was asking, because several people have told me that there is no such thing as bias in knit.
I have the garment mostly sewn together, just need to add the ties and use a twin needle all the way around to finish the edges and the second last christmas present is done.
Tania

Offline WendyW

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #5 on: December 23, 2012, 04:23:16 AM »
Tania, people often post on this site about RTW knit garments that twist mysteriously. The problem is often that they are cut slightly on the bias - not deliberately, but usually a manufacturing fault.

I don't think that a slight bias is the problem; it's just because it's a cheap knit. I recently had knit skew diagonal when I pre-washed it. It was obvious because there were strong vertical and horizontal elements to the print. I then cut my shirt out on the bias because it was the only way the print was still wearable. Time will tell how well it washes.
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Offline Susan in Saint John

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #6 on: December 23, 2012, 06:24:27 PM »
I've noticed that sometimes in a pattern designed for a knit, the binding pieces are shown on the bias.  I always use the direction of greatest stretch unless as ejvc mentioned that there is a design reason for doing otherwise.  Knitted fabric doesn't have a bias -- it's knitted not woven.

I made a Loes Hinse Sweater Coat from a knit fabric that was definitely off grain.  My inclination would have been to accept the lengthwise direction of the fabric to be the true grain but Loes recommended cutting each piece single layer to maintain the cross grain and she was right.  There is absolutely no twisting.

Offline Lyn-J

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2012, 09:14:52 AM »
Thank you for starting this topic. I'm just about to cut out a dress from a pattern that can be made from jersey or stretch woven. One of the pieces cut on the bias and I'm using ponte.  I didn't think this was right and this has confirmed my doubts. It will be cut on the straight grain.
Lynne

Online sewsy

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2012, 10:30:09 AM »
Tania, people often post on this site about RTW knit garments that twist mysteriously. The problem is often that they are cut slightly on the bias - not deliberately, but usually a manufacturing fault.

I don't think that a slight bias is the problem; it's just because it's a cheap knit. I recently had knit skew diagonal when I pre-washed it. It was obvious because there were strong vertical and horizontal elements to the print. I then cut my shirt out on the bias because it was the only way the print was still wearable. Time will tell how well it washes.

WendyW, there was a big brou ha-ha about this topic awhile back. It may be that if your fabric is light to mid weight, it would be better to hand wash it, wrap it up in a towel to absorb excess water, and lay flat to dry. Perhaps the twisting agitation of the washer (if you've a top-load model) caused the fabric to twist off grain.

Just a thought.

Offline WendyW

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2012, 03:04:44 PM »
WendyW, there was a big brou ha-ha about this topic awhile back. It may be that if your fabric is light to mid weight, it would be better to hand wash it, wrap it up in a towel to absorb excess water, and lay flat to dry. Perhaps the twisting agitation of the washer (if you've a top-load model) caused the fabric to twist off grain.

Just a thought.

I have no doubt that careful handling may have prevented the twist, but my ultimate goal was to produce some long-sleeve t-shirts that actually FIT for daily wear. If it can't be thrown in the washer, then it's not going in my drawer! Much better to get the twisting out of the way before cutting the garment out. It was Walmart $2/yd cheap fabric, NOT worth special handling!  ;)
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Offline Elona

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #10 on: December 24, 2012, 05:24:19 PM »
...I made a Loes Hinse Sweater Coat from a knit fabric that was definitely off grain.  My inclination would have been to accept the lengthwise direction of the fabric to be the true grain but Loes recommended cutting each piece single layer to maintain the cross grain and she was right.  There is absolutely no twisting.

This is very helpful information, Susan!  Thank you.

Offline sewbluetiful

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2012, 06:29:32 PM »
In Peggy Sagers last video, the Georgio top I believe, she puts the CF and DB piece on the bias.. it is a stripe,,

As WendyW suggests. I think it might make a difference between the quality of knit,, I know I have had some knits get really off grain  in the pre-wash,, before cutting,, I have looked at PS knits and for the price I would say they are quality, so maybe it can work,,,, just my opion... :) I would be interested to find out though,,, so post if someone tries it and it works....

Offline mcgintie

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #12 on: December 25, 2012, 12:26:17 PM »
This may have been covered already. Are some stretch fabrics not knits? (That is, you can't see an obvious knit stitch (in ladders) in the fabric). I am thinking about what hand knitted fabric looks like. If so, then it might handle better on the bias.
I would only buy an all cotton knit if it was a Swiss or Italian very fine quality. I get a lot of shrinkage over washes otherwise, and the fabric gets stiffer. I sometimes add a band on the bottom later from leftover material.
« Last Edit: December 25, 2012, 12:28:29 PM by mcgintie »

Offline mfedna

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #13 on: December 26, 2012, 01:15:21 AM »
I used a Peggy Sagers pattern (Silhouette) for a draped neck top - in a knit fabric- and the front bodice is cut on the bias. It worked beautifully, looks great. There is a bias in a knit fabric.

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Re: Knit fabric on bias?
« Reply #14 on: December 26, 2012, 02:57:31 PM »
I made that same Peggy Sagers cowl top and placed the pattern on the knit's straight of grain. It turned out great.

Donna Karan patterns for knits often have the main pattern pieces placed on the bias. I have made them up both ways (on the straight of grain and on the bias) and cannot tell much difference.

Susan in St. John, thank you for your tips, first to set the bias pattern line in the direction of the knit's greatest stretch, either lengthwise or crosswise, and the tip about favoring the crosswise grain in a knit fabric that is off grain. Two good things to know about knits.

Kathryn

 

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