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Ruthie's Stained Glass Window SWAP (comments in discussion thread please)

Started by Sew Ruthie Sews, October 29, 2018, 06:25:44 pm

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Sew Ruthie Sews

At first I had a blank about what could be my inspiration, and then I walked into my living room and saw this over the sofa


My lovely Auntie Joy made this beautiful quilt for me in 2015. (she is an artist and quilter but sadly is now losing her eyesight)
It is based on one of the stained glass windows of Gaudi's Sagrada Familia in Barcelona which were created by modern artist Joan Vila-Grau.
It is even better than the photos I took on my trips as the quilt shows both the beautiful stonework and the richness of the colours in the glass which doesn't quite come out in photos.

I could pull neutrals like taupe, grey, black, navy and brown from this as well as all the rainbow colours though pinks/reds and teals are most likely.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

October 29, 2018, 06:37:39 pm #1 Last Edit: November 04, 2018, 08:59:49 am by Sew Ruthie Sews
In terms of the garment to be completed between 29 October and 26 December, I think mine will be a fairly simple teal wool coat.
It'll be lined but just fasten with a belt. This could well also be a wild card piece.

As yet I'm not sure which neutrals I want to use, whether I'll choose colours from the window, the leading or the stonework.

I will definitely be using all 5 accent/print pieces as I love colour and print, and have lots of options from my inspiration.
I will probably try to stick fairly closely to my signature colours from Imogen Lamport's Sophisticated swatch
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

QuoteOne garment may be started on 29 October 2018 and completed prior to 26 December 2018

I've decided I am going to make a simple coat.

Last Dec and Jan I made plans for a teal wool coat. I was short of fabric and played about with mixing 2 wool fabrics. Eventually I decided on a layout I could get out of the yardage. (I was thinking about a longer coat, but will go instead with knee length).

I made a test coat which wasn't far off, and then I stalled. I never shared that test coat but my stash shrinker shows it was completed on 18th Jan.



I'm planning on lining mine so will need to draft some lining pieces and modify construction to insert the lining.
I think I am also going to have a centre back seam so I can add additional shaping for my curved back.
Bigger Pictures Here
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I think I'm going to use the original window as my inspiration as the colours are closer to my palette.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

November 04, 2018, 10:42:32 am #4 Last Edit: November 04, 2018, 10:47:39 am by Sew Ruthie Sews
Hmm. This wants to have black as the neutral. Mostly the leading between the glass.
But then what I do have as the other neutral? Dark grey as another aspect of lead, or perhaps choose dark blue, dark teal or dark brown from the glass. Or perhaps a lighter greige from the stone work?

Looking again there is dark brown in every panel and it works with the other colours well, so maybe that's the one to pick.
http://www.theviviennefiles.com/2012/01/wardrobe-base-of-black-and-brown.html/
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I've been thinking more about the SWAP palette based on the inspiration, what I've previously sewn (and therefore have plenty of) and what's available in the resources cupboard.

Colour Palette

Ink blue - Neutral 1
Stone - Neutral 2
Teal - Colour 1
Rose Pink - Colour 2

I should be able to have 6 pieces in shades of ink blue and stone.
Plus some accent pieces in teal, rose pink and prints.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Possible Collection:-

Ink Blue
- Ink Blue Trousers
- Ink Blue Jacket
- Ink Blue Skirt
- Ink Blue Cardigan

Stone
- Stone Cardigan
- Stone Knit Top
- Stone Trousers

Teal
- Teal Wool coat (wildcard)
- Teal Knit top

Rose
- Rose Knit top (only have one fabric in this colour but want to use it)

Print
- Ink and stone knit top
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I've thought about the colour palette for a few days and I still like it!

I'm still planning on starting with the teal wool coat as my early garment, though its not really got much further.
QuoteOne garment may be started on 29 October 2018 and completed prior to 26 December 2018


So far I have found the fabric and put it out to be cut.
Got the test coat out and dressed the dressmakers dummy in it.
Bought a pair of shoulder pads for the coat.

I have not yet found the pattern or the lining fabric, but I still like the style and want to proceed with the coat. I have considered another pattern but decided to go with the original one. I think this is going to be a slower make than my usual.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Progress finally. I have now cut of the two wool fabrics. I did have to go with the facing, collar, belt and pockets out of the lighter coloured wool and the rest in the darker coloured wool. I have started sewing the front, and had forgotten just how wonderful wool smells when you press it with the steam iron - heavenly!
I have not yet cut out the lining, as I will need to make small alterations to the pattern pieces to cut the lining out. However I have found the lining and laid it on the table. I had better cut it tomorrow as DBF has Christmas present wrapping plans which will need the table.

It is really great to have started and although it is a very different process to my usual quick knits I am enjoying it so far.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Coat progress - Facings interfaced and linings cut out.
I think I am going to hem the coat and lining separately and just tack the hems together in a few places as per nicer RTW, however I will bag the sleeves as I like the neat finish that gives.
I will do another 30 mins on it later. Just need to keep plugging away in small sections I guess.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Facing assembled and partly attached.
It's all going very slowly.
Better check the SWAP rules and make sure it's completed in time
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I have been working on this simple coat very slowly over the last few weeks.

It still needs hemming and a good press but is otherwise complete. I've added a lining in a dark teal satin, and pockets, belt and facing/collar in the slightly lighter teal wool. I think it works quite well.

I should be able to get this fully finished by 26th December for it to be the SWAP early garment (One garment may be started on 29 October 2018 and completed prior to 26 December 2018)
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Coat hemmed (bagged lining) and the sleeve lining opening stitched up. Coat now having a little rest on Doris the Dressform.
(It doesn't look much different to the photo above).
I'll probably do a photo in the new year of me wearing it, once I've sewn some of the SWAP pieces which work with it.
It has taken me since 22nd November but pleased to have this one piece completed before the main timeline starts.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

So as I have teal on the machines it would make sense to make any other teal pieces next, however I am really confused as I just re-read the rules and saw
QuoteNote that accents fabric must be the same (so not two different fabrics of the same accent color)

This raises two questions
1 Is my coat illegal already as it uses three fabrics, two of which are teal.
2 Having made a teal wool coat does this mean I can't make a teal jersey top, or teal suiting trousers?
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

warpjr1965

Quote from: Sew Ruthie Sews on December 25, 2018, 03:27:25 pm
So as I have teal on the machines it would make sense to make any other teal pieces next, however I am really confused as I just re-read the rules and saw
QuoteNote that accents fabric must be the same (so not two different fabrics of the same accent color)

This raises two questions
1 Is my coat illegal already as it uses three fabrics, two of which are teal.
2 Having made a teal wool coat does this mean I can't make a teal jersey top, or teal suiting trousers?


Ruthie, I am not sure about the coat, but I believe you can make multiple teal items. Each would count as its own accent, unless you are making them from the same fabric. You could make 2 tops out of the same jersey fabric, and that would count for one accent, but a pair of wool teal trousers would be a second accent.  That is what I understand from the rules and discussion. My guess is that the coat would count as its own accent, even though it is made from different fabrics.
Wendy

Sew Ruthie Sews

In my understanding of the rules, the coat is both a Wildcard and an Accent.
So I've used one of my two Wildcards and one of my 1-5 Accent Colour or Print items.

I quite fancy a teal column  - ie trousers and top in the same colour but different fabrics.
"Would you wear trousers in this colour" has previously been used to determine if something is a neutral for that person.

I wore the teal linen trousers from SWAP 2018 a lot during the summer so I can imagine a darker version in a mid weight trouser fabric would have a place in my wardrobe too. I've got a suitable trouser length in my fabric cupboard.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Possible Collection:-

Ink Blue
- Ink Blue Trousers
- Ink Blue Jacket
- Ink Blue Skirt
- Ink Blue Cardigan

Stone
- Stone Cardigan
- Stone Knit Top
- Stone Trousers

Teal
- Teal Wool coat (wildcard)
- Teal Knit top

Rose
- Rose Knit top (only have one fabric in this colour but want to use it)

Print
- Ink and stone knit top

Quote from: mudcat on December 26, 2018, 02:38:57 pm
As long as you don't exceed more than five pieces of fabric for your 1-5 non-neutral pieces you should be fine.  Based on how your current swap is listed it looks like you won't exceed the five.

You can use as many shades/types of fabric as you want for your two neutral colors.  The primary point of this is if you make a lot of pieces from neutrals it's quite likely the average person won't have enough yardage to make multiple garments and plus you may want a mix of woven and knit.  I personally prefer my tops be knit but for skirts I'm good either way.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

December 26, 2018, 03:33:32 pm #17 Last Edit: December 26, 2018, 03:37:12 pm by Sew Ruthie Sews
In the plan outlined

Ink Blue
- Ink Blue Trousers - neutral 1
- Ink Blue Jacket - neutral 1
- Ink Blue Skirt - neutral 1
- Ink Blue Cardigan - neutral 1

Stone
- Stone Cardigan - neutral 2
- Stone Knit Top - neutral 2
- Stone Trousers - neutral 2

Teal
- Teal Wool coat (wildcard) - uses 2 teal fabrics so uses 2 'colour' slots??
- Teal Knit top - a coloured item

Rose
- Rose Knit top (only have one fabric in this colour but want to use it) - a coloured item

Print
- Ink and stone knit top - a printed item

If I made more than one garment in any of the coloured or print fabrics they don't count twice in the 1-5 coloured/printedfabrics (I think).
So a rose cardigan or an ink/stone skirt may be permitted.

I need to explore the fabric cupboard again and check yardages.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Alternatively I could switch to Neutrals of Dark Teal and Ink Blue with Accents of Stone and Rose.

That way I could have lots of teal but less stone which I think I would wear more. Hmmmmm.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


I decided that I would have Ink Blue and Teal as my Base Neutrals with Stone and Rose Pink as the Accents.

Using this palette I investigated my fabric resources. I then came up with these possible garments (I know its too many but that gives me some wriggle room!).

INK BLUE:-
* Stretch woven trousers
- Stretch woven jacket
- Stretch woven skirt (fabric permitting)
* Knit top
* Cardigan jacket

TEAL:-
* Trousers
* Knit top
* Cardigan jacket
* Wool coat

ROSE PINK:-
* Knit top

STONE :-
* Lace knit cardigan

PRINT :-
* Teal print top 1
- Teal print top 2
* Ink Blue print top

That would be
2 pairs of trousers and 1 skirt
3 jackets and 1 cardigan
6 knit tops
a wool coat
(14 garments)

As a minimum I would like to make trousers, top and cardigan jacket in each of my Base neutrals (INK BLUE and TEAL) and then add some accent colours and prints. The reduced set is marked with a (*) and the extras with a (-).
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


Here are the fabrics I've chosen for SWAP 2019.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

December 28, 2018, 12:44:53 pm #21 Last Edit: December 29, 2018, 11:10:47 am by Sew Ruthie Sews

The INK BLUE fabrics left to right - ink blue jersey for a knit top, ink blue and off white print for a knit top, ink blue stretch woven for trousers, jacket and maybe also a skirt and ink blue tweedy fabric for a cardigan jacket.

The TEAL fabrics left to right - print poly knit for a dress/top, print viscose for a knit top. dark teal knit for a top, dark teal woven for trousers and teal tweedy fabric for a cardigan jacket.

And finally a ROSE PINK jersey for a knit top and a STONE stretch lace for a cardigan.

The dark TEAL trousers and knit top are the most attractive to me currently as I have teal thread on the machines and sewing in the same colour story works so well for me. Maybe the tweedy jacket after that before switching to INK BLUE?

I've gone for darker teal as I think this will be more flexible as a neutral.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I'm feeling happier now I have two dark neutrals. Having mostly dark hair still I find that darker colours are more versatile for me.
Teal is a big favourite as I have blue/green eyes so teal is harmonious.

As my hair is mixed dark brown and white I find the textured fabrics are good so the two tweedy jacket fabrics which have lighter threads in a dark base echo that. I also like the mismatched 'suit' of a tweedy jacket and plain trousers as it is easier to replace the trousers as they wear out but still have a suit look.

The rose pink and stone should provide just a bit of a contrast to all those darker colours, the pink is a signature colour (ie particualrly flattering to my skintone, so good up round my face). It was originally a much less flattering apricot orange but I overdyed it with a bright pink and got this lovely rose shade. The stretch lace in stone will be a simple cardigan to wear over particulalrly the plain dark tops, as the fabric underneath will show through the lace pattern giving a nice texture.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews







I'll stick with these colour groupings, but may have to sub in alternate fabrics if the yardage is too short or some other issue arises.

I plan to start cutting out the teal pieces soon.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

January 05, 2019, 03:05:09 pm #24 Last Edit: January 06, 2019, 02:20:57 am by Sew Ruthie Sews
Teal tweedy cardigan completed



I only had 2 metres of this fabric, so had to do a bit of pattern tetris to cut it out.

I ended up with size Large, slightly shorter (5cm) than the mid length, with a belt, but without the patch pockets or a facing. The sleeves were cut on the cross grain.

I overlocked all the raw outer edges, rolled twice and stitched for a reasonably nice finish without the facing. I did a 6cm hem on the sleeves.
I omitted any pockets as the fabric has a very open weave and I felt they would pull.

The fabric had two good sides, so I played with using the one with more white threads on the sleeves, belt and showing when the collar folds open, with the plainer side for the body and belt loops. Its subtle but I like it.

I'm counting this as a textured teal fabric, and as such its in the neutrals and not a colour or print.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Dark teal jersey used for New Look 6735.

Size 18, three quarter sleeve as per the pattern. Slight forward head alteration and a little extra bicep room added.


It is a plain and simple top, but its exactly the colour and fit I wanted and is a fantastic base for the tweedy cardigan jacket, leaving room in the neckline for one of my chunky necklaces.

Just need some dark teal trousers and I'll have an outfit! (Or shall I make another top first since I have the coverhem set up?)
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

I decided to go with the trousers which are Burda Style 02/2010 #135.

So far I have cut them out and also managed to squeeze a straight skirt out of the scraps. Wondering about lining the skirt so it hangs better, and whether I could add in some inseam pockets.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

The teal trousers are partially constructed and seem OK when I tried them on.
I still need to press the side seams, make and attach the waistband and hem them.

I have got slightly distracted by the PR sewing bee challenge to make a cardigan inspired by Pantone Living Coral and have a way which is definitely inspired rather than literal. Hopefully it can still be part of my Stained Glass Window SWAP.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews


I've used the Kinder cardigan in the mid length with full length sleeves. I've added in seam pockets, a belt and belt loops. I tried to place the print sensibly by cutting the pieces out single layer.

I've done some simple beading and running stitches in shades of pink to outline the shapes of the print. Hopefully this will help link in the pink in the SWAP a bit more. I ironed some very lightweight interfacing on to the back of the upper front area to give a little more stability for the handwork without changing the drape of the fabric too much.

I still need to finish the trousers and then I will do some outfit shots.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Trousers finished!




I replaced the curved waistband with a straight one with a double overlap and 2 buttons. This feels nice and secure compared to just having the invisible zip coming into the waist area. I have found that the zip can fail in wear, at the intersection of the waistband and upper body.

I do wonder if they are hemmed slightly too long as there is bunching over the foot where they are laying over the ankle boot, however with this length, when you then sit the ankle doesn't get exposed too much. I already removed their original hem allowance and turned up a 6cm hem.

I used a dark blue invisible zipper as the teal ones were too bright and this blended better.

The fit is OK though not perfect. I'm not going to agonise over it too much. If I tried these on in a shop I would be overjoyed and buy them immediately.
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews



I've now got 5 teal pieces complete which is frankly probably enough, but I have a skirt cut out, a dress planned, also another top and the top which needs light coloured thread, so if I do all of those it would be another 4 teal garments. Without too much pain I could find 2 more garments and have a whole 11 piece teal collection. However that would not fit with the rules this year so no dice!
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Here I am wearing the teal wool coat I finished before Christmas.

The main body of the coat is in a dark teal wool, with pockets, belt and facing/collar in a slightly lighter teal wool. I've also drafted and added a lining in a dark teal satin which feels very luxurious. It has medium sized shoulder pads.

Here wearing the coat with a hat and scarf knitted for me in previous years by YorkshireLass.

The back doesn't have much shaping and is brought in by the belt.

The front has no closures but wraps over and ties with the belt. Here worn with a scarf I made in April 2017 and a fun sewing themed brooch I got this year as a gift from a dear friend (thanks E).
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/

Sew Ruthie Sews

A few more of me wearing the garments

Here's the top, trousers and tweedy cardigan jacket



And the top, trousers and the beaded cardigan
Ruthie in Derbyshire UK
http://ruthieksews1.blogspot.co.uk/