Author Topic: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!  (Read 1753 times)

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Offline Andromache

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My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« on: January 28, 2012, 10:04:41 PM »
After reading all the nice replies to my thread in the Beginner's section about what material to use for a boned foundation, I sat down and made one.  I used cotton flannel with spiral steel boning at the two side front seams, the two side seams, and the two side back seams.  It closes on the left side with hook and eye tape (not pictured). 

Please critique the fit!  I think it looks fine for the most part.  The only part I wonder about is the wrinkling around the bust.  I took the picture right after I'd pressed it, but more small horizontal wrinkles started to develop around the two center front boning channels and across the center front pattern piece as I've been wearing it.  Is that something I need to worry about and fix, or is it not going to be an issue when I sew it into the dress?

Also, it's comfortable, and feels a little less snug than it could be, though it stays up on its own just fine as I've been wearing it.  Is this something I need to fix as well?
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Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #1 on: January 28, 2012, 11:02:57 PM »
I think if you put a dart in the center front piece between the seams/boning channels, it will alleviate much of that wrinkling. I did that in a bustier I made several years ago. You can see a picture of the inner construction here:
Bustier inside front

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Offline Karen C

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2012, 12:09:23 AM »
You should take the pictures with your arms down.  Raising your arms lifts the ribs and changes the fit.

Offline Andromache

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2012, 12:27:39 AM »
For taking pictures with the arms down, easier said than done!  I don't have anyone I can get to take pictures of me, so it's just me, my camera, and a mirror. 

Gorgeous Things, I tried pinning the fabric out of the front, as you suggested.  It only made things wrinklier.  You know, I've made this dress before, sans boning, and I have not had the wrinkling problem.  Perhaps it's a symptom of the boning curving in the boning channels and pulling the fabric in slightly irregular ways?
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Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2012, 01:15:24 AM »
Andromache, you might also want to think about putting one more piece of boning in the CF, stopping just below the bust. Also, can you position your camera on a high surface to take a picture, like Karen C. suggests, with your arms down? That might help us get a look at it with less distortion.

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Offline Andromache

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2012, 01:56:38 AM »
I think the best I can hope for for camera surfaces is about waist-height.  Is that high enough?  In any case, photos will have to wait until morning, because there's not enough light in my apartment at night.
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Offline Andromache

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2012, 01:56:57 AM »
Ooh, I think I figured it out.  Bear with me a minute.
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Offline Andromache

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2012, 02:50:15 AM »
OK, here are the new photos.  It took a while to finesse things with the camera!  Here is the front:
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Offline Andromache

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2012, 02:50:46 AM »
Here is the side.  It's been worn around all day, so it's more wrinkly than it started out.
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Offline Gorgeous Things

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2012, 03:04:08 AM »
Okay, thanks for posting those! Here are my thoughts, and I am not there so I can't do my usual "pull it here and pinch it there" thing, but...

I think you have a little too much length in the torso. Try pinching out a little length at the top or bottom (depending on how it affects the bust point vis a vis your bust point), and see if that takes care of some of it. If it does, you will definitely want to add a waist stay to keep it in place. In fact, adding a waist stay may help even without taking out any length.

Try that and let us know what you think.
HTH!
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Offline Andromache

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2012, 03:55:43 AM »
Genius!  I took out 1/8" at the bust, and now it's perfect.  Thanks!  On to the rest of the dress!
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Offline Andromache

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Re: My boned foundation-- critique the fit!
« Reply #11 on: January 29, 2012, 05:20:19 AM »
And...I don't have enough fabric for the dress   :o  Actually, for either dress I was planning on.  Resumption of the planned dresses will wait on my ability to obtain 1 yd of matching navy silk crepe or 1 1/2 yd of teal blue silk dupioni or something  :( 
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