Author Topic: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge  (Read 1597 times)

Offline kushami

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #35 on: October 12, 2018, 08:57:00 AM »
How fun! I don't think I can join in this time, but if I got the chance I would make a Lempi Dress, which is basically a shirt dress, with bound buttonholes and making a belt as my new techniques/aspects.

www.namedclothing.com/shop/lempi-button-down-dress/

Look forward to seeing everyone's creations.

Offline bessiecrocker

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #36 on: October 13, 2018, 09:27:55 AM »

However, I still want to make this vintage vogue:
https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9280

  I don't want a white collar however so I'm still trying to figure that part out.


very belated reply to Mutcat about this dress... it's a vintage look. The additional over collar and cuff inserts are totally optional. The original way this kind of dress would have been made -and worn- called for the extra white (usually linen) pieces, but there is no reason you need them now.

This dress would have typically been made out of wool...basically non-washable at the time and before dry cleaning was easily available. You rarely washed the dress!!! The white bits were out of washable fabric, and were used where your skin touched the dress. Under the dress you wore a full length (washable) slip, you had dress shields in your armpits...so the only remaining bits to worry about getting dirty were the collar and cuff areas.   You can pop off the detachable bits, hot wash with bleach, brush the dress a bit, and it's ready for further wearing. Maybe apply a good dose of perfume.

If you make a modern version, with modern fabrics, you're free to do whatever you want with the collar and cuff inserts. Any contrast fabric would look good, or just omit those pieces. Laundry is no longer a factor.

Offline Sizun

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #37 on: October 13, 2018, 11:26:42 AM »

... You can pop off the detachable bits, hot wash with bleach, brush the dress a bit, and it's ready for further wearing. Maybe apply a good dose of perfume.

...

I've noticed wool doesn't easily retains smells. I typically wash my cardigans and wool skirts twice per season and it seems enough. (Pants are a different matter though)

One Dress A Month Sew Along

Offline Irina

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #38 on: October 13, 2018, 06:07:29 PM »
I need some advise please...I will be making a dress similar to this in silk chiffon fabric. I am making a bodice muslin at this moment. I have trouble picking lining - I worked with silk chiffon before but I never made lined chiffon dress. I am thinking about silk crepe de chine for lining (16mm). Or I can get silk double georgette (16mm). I do have crepe de chine samples and thinking maybe it will be too light/transparent? Will I be better with double georgette? Is it true (I read somewhere) that silk crepe double georgette does not "breathe" and too hot? Will I get better coverage with double georgette?
1fe25bc7-0387-48f2-83cd-9e9447c15e67 by Irina, on Flickr

Dress Fabric 007 by Irina, on Flickr

Offline CCL

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #39 on: October 14, 2018, 12:08:09 AM »
Irina, take my thoughts with healthy grains of salt, as I have little experience with silk chiffon.  However, I would think you would need something a little more opaque with that beautiful, beautiful fabric. My best guess of the crepe de chine is to try a sample and see if it's too transparent.  If it is, would a rayon lining such as bemberg/ambiance breathe enough and still be opaque enough?   

Offline bessiecrocker

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #40 on: October 14, 2018, 08:04:06 AM »
Irina, here are some more thoughts, feel free to ignore! I think you want to avoid any kind of silk (or other fabric) with a "crepe" weave. That includes charmeuse, one side is creped- the other is satin...you want to be sure the  satin side is touching your chiffon.

The structure of crepe makes it a bit  "sticky"...it won't work properly with the chiffon.

If you want silk...I'd look at Habotai (China silk). It's very lightweight, has a slick, flat weave, and will keep the dress floaty. " See through" might still be an issue, however. You could line critical parts of the dress (using the same silk) if necessary.

I'd also look into Bemberg*...similar weight to china silk, but cheaper. You want to think of ways to keep this dress very light and flow-y. Using a heavier fabric is probably not the way to go.

*mta: I don't know where you are located...Bemberg is a USA brand name for cupro (viscose) lining fabric. Where I am (Europe) the equivelent is called "Venezia."  If you've got silk chiffon, you may prefer to go for true silk as the under fabric. Habotai comes in different weights, see if you can test some that is about 12mm and 16mm.
« Last Edit: October 14, 2018, 09:01:53 AM by bessiecrocker »

Offline Irina

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #41 on: October 15, 2018, 02:42:52 PM »
bessiecrocker, CCL - thank you for your advise.
bessiecrocker, I see now why crepe weave fabric might be not the best choice for me. I looked into habotai - there is 15.5 mm on Thai silks (I am in the US)and would be perfect (I have their samples) but it comes only in white color that does not work with my fabric. 8 mm comes in different colors but it is so light. It might be ok if I go with a bit darker color.

I have "love & hate" relationship with Bemberg lining. I just do not understand the quality. I bought Bemberg a couple of times from different vendors and every time it was a bit different quality. Last time I cut Bemberg and started sewing/pressing seams  and too much water from iron got on it - it is stained fabric so badly I could not use it. The other time  Bemberg was perfect - had better hand and did not stain from water.

Offline CCL

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #42 on: October 15, 2018, 06:07:58 PM »
Irina... I say this with trepidation, but you could try dying the silk.  (I have never done this, but others on the site have dyed fabric and get good results, perhaps one of them may chime in.) 

I know what you mean about the varying quality of bemberg/ambiance.

I can say, though, that I really like the bemberg lining I bought from Britex earlier this year.  I haven't sewn it up yet, but it feels lovely.  I liked also (and it sewed up well) the bemberg I bought from Emma One Sock and Sawyer Brook.  Don't know if that helps... and of course, I have no relationship with any of these vendors...besides them being the sink-holes of my fabric purchasing dollars.

Edited to add:  I just thought of something else.  Sometimes if I am unsure of a lining fabric, I make the pattern up in it first (sort of a step between the muslin and making the garment).   That helps me gauge not only if my pattern alterations are really okay, but how the lining is going to work.   That way, if the lining is a fail, you could try something else.
« Last Edit: October 15, 2018, 06:12:34 PM by CCL »

Offline bessiecrocker

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Re: The Pre-2019 SWAP Dress Challenge
« Reply #43 on: October 16, 2018, 12:13:58 PM »

I have "love & hate" relationship with Bemberg lining.

I totally know what you mean...my biggest complaint is that some of it smells so bad when it's wet.

You need silk underdress if you have silk chiffon.  See, I just decided that for you.

I think CCL is on to something...dye!  Look at Dharma Trading for dye and other silk options. Silk is super easy to dye yourself...bit messy maybe. Do you have a top loader washer or can you find one?

Also consider using two layers of 8mm habotai...look at Emma One Sock silk, lots of colors. you could even use two different colors layered together for special effect. Drawback is that it's not as simple to sew, but would look good.